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M arising Chanden Sing 

A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR AND HIS TWO FAITHFUL SERVANTS 



In the Forbidden Land 

An Account of a Jottrney into Tibet 

Capttire by the Tibetan Lamas and 

Soldiers, Imprisonment, Torture 

and Ultimate Release. 



By A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR 

WITH THE GOVERNMENT ENQUIRY AND REPORT 

AND OTHER OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS BY 

J. LARKIN, ESQ., DEPUTED BY THE 

GOVERNMENT OF INDIA 



With many Illustrations supplied by the Author 




HARPER & BROTHERS PUBLISHERS 
NEW YORK AND LONDON 









^ \ i/^ 



> CIA 25 145 1 



Copyright, 1898, 1909, by Harper & Brothers. 



All rights reserved. 






1T H>e&icate 



THIS BOOK 

TO 

MY DEAR FATHER AND MOTHER 



PREFACE 



Hastily written, and when the author was in broken 
health from wounds and tortures endured in the For- 
bidden Land, this book was not intended as a literary 
effort, but merely as an unvarnished record of a journey 
of exploration taken in Tibet in the year 1897. 

The following were the geographical results of the 
expedition : 

First. The discovery of the two principal sources 
of the Brahmaputra River, never before visited by 
white man. 

vSecond. Fixing the position of the highest peaks 
of what has lately been described as the "new Trans- 
Himalaya" range. The first description of the geo- 
graphical importance, or non-importance, of this so- 
called new range. 

Third. The solution of the geographical contro- 
versy regarding a supposed connecting stream between 
the lakes Mansarowar and Rakastal in Tibet. The 
author's contention that no visible communication 
exists has since been proved correct by later explorers. 

In the orthography of geographical names the author 
has adopted the way of spelling which seemed most 
sensible, viz. : to give native names their true sound 
as .they are locally pronounced. No exception has 
been made, even for the grand and poetic "Himahlya" 



PREFACE 

(The abode of snow), which is in English distorted 
into the meaningless and unromantic "Himalaya." 

During the journey an area of 12,500 square miles, 
in Tibet proper, was surveyed and mapped. It is a 
satisfaction to the author to find his map of that coun- 
try copied, even traced, by later explorers. 

The illustrations are from the author's own photo- 
graphs for the first portion of the journey. For the 
latter part of the journey the illustrations are from 
sketches also taken by the author. The torture scenes 
are of course drawn from memory. 

The Author. 



CONTENTS 

BOOK I 



CHAPTER I PAGE 

FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL , I 

CHAPTER II 

LOADS — A SET OF USEFUL PACK-SADDLE CASES — PROVISIONS AND SCIENTIFIC 
OUTFIT — CLOTHES AND SHOES — MEDICINES — UNDER WAY — THE FIRST 
MARCH — SERVANTS — HOW I CAME TO EMPLOY FAITHFUL CHANDEN SING 4 

CHAPTER III 

PITHORAGARH — FAKIR WOMEN — A WELL- VENTILATED ABODE — ASKOTE — THE 

RAJIWAR AND HIS PEOPLE 12 

CHAPTER IV 

THE RAOTS — A SLIPPERY JOURNEY — SUPERSTITIOUS NOTIONS — ANGER AND 
JEALOUSY — FRIENDS — TO THE HOMES OF THE SAVAGES — PHOTOGRAPHY — 
HABITATIONS l8 

CHAPTER V 

A PILGRIM FROM MANSAROWAR LAKE — THE SPIRITS OF THE MOUNTAINS — A 
SAFEGUARD AGAINST THEM — TIBETAN ENCAMPMENTS — THE RAJIWAR — A 
WATERFALL — WATER-MILLS 29 

CHAPTER VI 

HIGHWAYS AND TRADE ROUTES — THE DARMA ROUTE — THE DHOLI RIVER — A 
ROUGH TRACK CONNECTING TWO VALLEYS — GLACIERS — THREE RANGES 
AND THEIR PEAKS — ALTITUDES — DARMA, JOHAR, AND THE PAINKHANDA 
PARGANAS — THE HIGHEST PEAK IN THE BRITISH EMPIRE -- NATURAL 
BOUNDARIES 39 

CHAPTER VII 

THE WORD SHOT AND ITS MEANING — TIBETAN INFLUENCE — TIBETAN ABUSES 
— THE EVER-HELPFUL CHANDEN SING — THE FIRST SHOKA VILLAGE — 
CHANDEN SING IN DISGRACE — WEAVING-LOOM — FABRICS — ALL'S WELL 
THAT ENDS WELI 45 

vii 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER VIII page 

PRAYER BY WIND-POWER — PHOTOGRAPHY UNDER DIFFICULTIES — A NIGHT OF 
MISERY — DRYING UP — TWO LADY MISSIONARIES — THEIR VALUABLE WORK 
— AN INTERESTING DINNER-PARTY — AN "ECCENTRIC" MAN'S TEA-PARTY 51 



CHAPTER IX 



^ 



DISCOURAGING REPORTS — A STEEP ASCENT — HOW I CAME TO DESERVE THE 
NAME OF "MONKEY" — HARD AT WORK — PROMOTED IN RANK — COLLAPSE 
IN A GALE OF WIND — TIME AND LABOR LOST 58 

CHAPTER X 

THE NERPANI, OR "WATERLESS TRACK" — EXAGGERATED ACCOUNTS — A LONG 
SHOT — THE RESCUE OF TWO COOLIES — PICTURESQUE NATURE — AN INVOL- 
UNTARY SHOWER-BATH — THE CHAI PASS 63 

CHAPTER XI 

A SERIES OF MISFORTUNES — TIBETAN ATROCITIES ON BRITISH SUBJECTS— TIB- 
ETAN EXACTIONS — REVOLTING CRUELTY TO ONE OF HER MAJESTY'S SUB- 
JECTS — ASSAULT ON A BRITISH OFFICER — A SMART BRITISH ENVOY . . 7 1 

CHAPTER XII 

TIBETAN THREATS — MY BIRTHDAY — RAVENOUS DOGS — A BIG DINNER — SHOKA 

HOSPITALITY 78 

CHAPTER XIII 

SHOKA HOSPITALITY — HOW I OBTAINED MUCH INFORMATION — ON A RECON- 
NOITRING TRIP — A TERRIBLE SLIDE 84 

CHAPTER XIV 

A PALAVER — TO SEE IS TO BELIEVE — DANGERS AND PERILS ON THE SNOW AND 
ICE — THAR AND GIIURAL — STALKING — A TIRING CLIMB TO l6,000 FEET — 
THE COLLAPSE OF A SNOW BRIDGE 92 

CHAPTER XV 

AN EARTHQUAKE — CURIOUS NOTIONS OF THE NATIVES — A SHOKA TAILOR AND 
HIS WAYS — THE ARRIVAL OF SILVER CASH — TWO ROCKS IN THE KALI 
— ARROGANCE OF A TIBETAN SPY 97 

CHAPTER XVI 

THE RAMBANG — SHOKA MUSIC — LOVE- SONGS— DOLEFUL SINGING— ABRUPT END- 
ING — SOLOS — SMOKING— WHEN MARRIAGE IS CONTEMPLATED — THE DELANG 
— ADULTERY — PUNISHMENT • 105 

viii 









CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XVII 

FUNERAL RITES page 

DEPARTURE OF THE SOUL — CREMATION — AMUSEMENT OF THE DEAD MAN'S 
SOUL — THE LAY-FIGURE — FEASTING — DOLEFUL DANCE — TRANSMIGRATION 
OF THE SOUL — EXPENSIVE CEREMONIES — OFFERINGS BEFORE THE LAY- 
FIGURE — DANCING AND CONTORTIONS — MARTIAL DANCES — SOLO DANCES — 
THE ANIMAL TO BE SACRIFICED AND THE LAY-FIGURE — CHASING THE 
ANIMAL FROM THE VILLAGE — TEARING OUT ITS HEART — THE YAK DRIVEN 
OVER A PRECIPICE— HEAD SHAVING — A SACRED CAVE 112 

CHAPTER XVIII 

TOUCHING SHOKA FAREWELL — FEELINGS CURIOUSLY EXPRESSED — SOBS AND 
TEARS— THE START — A FUNERAL PROCESSION — DISTRESSED FATHER AND 
MOTHER — KACHI AND DOLA THE WORSE FOR DRINK — ANXIOUS MOMENTS 
— THE BRIDGE DESTROYED 124 

CHAPTER XIX 

A DANGEROUS TRACK — PERILOUS PASSAGE — A CURIOUS BRIDGE OVER A PRECI- 
PICE — PATHETIC SHOKA CUSTOM— SMALL MISADVENTURES — A GRAND RE- 
CEPTION — TEA FOR ALL TASTES I3O 

CHAPTER XX 

DR. WILSON JOINS MY EXPEDITION FOR A FEW MARCHES — WHAT MISDEEDS 
A PHOTOGRAPHIC CAMERA CAN DO — WEIGHING, DIVIDING, AND PACKING 
PROVISIONS — TWO EXTRA MEN WANTED — THE LAST FRIENDLY FACES . . 134 

CHAPTER XXI 

THE KUTI CASTLE — UNDER WAY— OUR FIRST DISASTER — A CHEERFUL AND A 
SULKY COOLIE — MANSING — A BRIGAND — A STRANGE MEDLEY OF FOLLOW- 
ERS — A CHARACTER — TAILORING — FIELDS OF STONES — TROUBLESOME 
RIVERS — THE JOLINKAN OR LEBUNG PASS — SENSE OF HUMOR — PLEASED 
WITH SMALL COMFORTS I38 

CHAPTER XXII 

WANT OF FUEL — COOKING UNDER DIFFICULTY — MANSING LOST AND FOUND — 
SAVED FROM SUMMARY JUSTICE — TIBETAN VISITORS — WE PURCHASE 
SHEEP — THE SNOW-LINE — COLD STREAMS — THE PETRIFIED CHAPATI AND 
HUMAN HAND I48 

CHAPTER XXIII 

THE SCOUTS RETURN — A SMALL EXPLORING PARTY — THE MANGSHAN GLACIER . 1 54 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

SNOW AND TROUBLESOME DEBRIS — THY. DOCTOR'S SUFFERINGS — KACHI DIS- 
ABLED—FURTHER TRIALS — A WEIRD APPARITION — DELIRIUM — ALL SAFE — 
THE DESCENT 158 

ix 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XXV PAGE 

THE SOURCES OF THE KUTI RIVER — THE LUMPIYA GLACIER— THE SUMMIT OF 
THE RANGE — BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF TIBET — RUBSO FROZEN ALMOST TO 
DEATH — THE LUMPIYA PASS — TWO COOLIES IN DISTRESS l66 

CHAPTER XXVI 

MYSTERIOUS FOOTPRINTS — BRIGAND OR SPY? — PASSES AND TRACKS — INTENSE 
COLD — NO FUEL — A HIGH, FLAT PLATEAU — FUEL AT LAST ! — TWO SPIES 
IN DISGUISE — WHAT THEY TOOK US FOR 171 

CHAPTER XXVII 

LAMA CHOKDEN— A TIBETAN GUARD — THE SACRED KELAS — REVERENCE OF MY 
MEN FOR THE SACRED MOUNTAIN — TRYING HARD TO KEEP FRIENDS WITH 
THE GODS — OBOS — WATER FLOWING TO US 1 75 

CHAPTER XXVIII 

AN EXTENSIVE VALLEY — KIANG, OR WILD HORSE — THEIR STRANGE WAYS — 
THE GYANEMA FORT — APPREHENSION AT OUR APPEARANCE — A PARLEY — 
"CUT OUR HEADS!" — REVOLT AND MURDER CONTEMPLATED — HYPOCRIT- 
ICAL WAYS OF TIBETAN OFFICIALS— HELP SUMMONED FROM EVERYWHERE 
— PREPARING FOR WAR I79 

CHAPTER XXIX 

ARRIVAL OF A HIGH OFFICIAL— THE BARCA TARJUM— A TEDIOUS PALAVER — 
THE TARJUM'S ANXIETY — PERMISSION TO PROCEED — A TRAITOR — EN- 
TREATED TO RETRACE OUR STEPS — THIRTY ARMED HORSEMEN — A PRETTY 
SPEECH 186 

CHAPTER XXX 

SPYING OUR MOVEMENTS — DISGUISED SEPOYS — A GLOOMY OUTLOOK — TROUBLE- 
SOME FOLLOWERS— ANOTHER MARCH BACK— AN AMUSING INCIDENT . . I93 

CHAPTER XXXI 

AN ATTEMPT THAT FAILED — A RESOLUTION — A SMART SHOKA LAD — THE 
PLUCKY CHANDEN SING PROPOSES TO ACCOMPANY ME — MANSING THE 
LEPER BECOMES MY SERVANT'S SERVANT I98 

CHAPTER XXXII 

"DEVIL'S CAMP" — A FIERCE SNOW-STORM — ABANDONING OUR TENTS — 
DANGERS AND PERILS IN PROSPECT — COLLECTING THE MEN — ONE LOAD 
TOO MANY ! — ANOTHER MAN WANTED AND FOUND — A PROPITIOUS NIGHT 
—GOOD-BYE TO WILSON— THE ESCAPE— BRIGANDS 203 

CHAPTER XXXIII 

SOUTHEAST WIND — HUNGRY AND HALF FROZEN — LAKES AT 18,960 FEET 
ABOVE SEA-LEVEL — COLD FOOD AT HIGH ALTITUDES — BURIED IN SNOW 

— MANSING'S SUFFERINGS — FUEL AT LAST . 208 

X 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XXXIV page 

DACOITS — NO NONSENSE ALLOWED — A MUCH-FREQUENTED REGION — A PLATEAU 

— THE GYANEMA-TAKLAKOT TRACK — A DANGEROUS SPOT — SOLDIERS 
WAITING FOR US — BURYING OUR BAGGAGE — OUT OF PROVISIONS — A FALL 
INTO THE GAKKON RIVER — A BRIGHT IDEA — NETTLES OUR DIET . . .213 

CHAPTER XXXV 

ALL THAT REMAINED OF MY MEN'S PROVISIONS — THE PLAN TO ENTER THE 
PORT — APPEARANCE OF YAKS — A BAND OF BRIGANDS — ERECTING FORTI- 
FICATIONS—CHANGES IN THE TEMPERATURE— SOLDIERS IN SEARCH OF US 220 

CHAPTER XXXVI 

4 'TERROR CAMP" — TWO MORE MESSENGERS LEAVE CAMP — A TRIBE OF DOGPAS 

— A STRANGE SAHIB — OUR MESSENGERS RETURN FROM TAKLAKOT — THE 
ACCOUNT AND ADVENTURES OF THEIR MISSION — IN GREAT DISTRESS — 
TWO FAKIRS WHO SUFFERED THROUGH ME — FIVE HUNDRED RUPEES 
OFFERED FOR MY HEAD — THE SHOKAS WANT TO ABANDON ME — A PLOT 

— HOW IT FAILED , 224 

CHAPTER XXXVII 

A TIBETAN GUARD'S ENCAMPMENT — NATTOO VOLUNTEERS TO BE A GUIDE — 
TREACHERY AND PUNISHMENT OF THE SHOKAS — ALL WAYS FORWARD 
BARRED TO ME — EVADING THE SOLDIERS BY ANOTHER PERILOUS MARCH 
AT NIGHT — MANSING AGAIN LOST — A MARVELLOUS PHENOMENON — SUF- 
FERINGS OF MY MEN — SEVERE COLD 231 

CHAPTER XXXVIII 

NIGHT MARCHING — THE LAFAN AND MAFAN LAKES — TIZE, THE SACRED KELAS 

— RHUBARB — BUTTERFLIES — A HERMIT LAMA — MORE DACOITS — SUR- 
ROUNDED BY THEM — ROUTED 236 

CHAPTER XXXIX 

SPIED AND FOLLOWED BY ROBBERS — JOGPAS' HOSPITALITY — HARES — TIBETAN 
CHARMS RESISTED — ATTEMPT TO SNATCH CHANDEN SING'S RIFLE OUT OF 
HIS HANDS — THE RIDGE BETWEEN RAKASTAL AND MANSAROWAR LAKES . 243 

CHAPTER XL 

MORE ROBBERS — THE FRIENDS OF TIBETAN AUTHORITIES — A SNAP-SHOT — A 
MEEK LOT — PREPOSSESSING FEMALE AND HER CURIOUS WAYS — THE PUR- 
CHASE OF TWO YAKS 247 

CHAPTER XLI 

TIBETAN COATS, HATS, AND BOOTS — WHY A TIBETAN PREFERS TO LEAVE 
HALF THE CHEST AND ONE ARM BARE — ORNAMENTATIONS — MANNER AND 
SPEECH — IGNORANCE AND SUPERSTITION — WAY OF EATING — JOGPA 
WOMEN AND CHILDREN— HEAD-DRESS 252 

xi 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XLII page 

A DAKU'S STRANGE IDEAS — THE RIDGE BETWEEN THE TWO LAKES — BLACK 
TENTS — CONFRONTING THE TWO LAKES — A CHAIN OF HIGH PEAKS — 
CHANGE IN THE WEATHER 259 

CHAPTER XLIII 

THE LANGA TSANGPO — A TERRIFIC STORM — DRENCHED TO THE SKIN — HEAVY 
MARCHING — AGAINST THE GODS — DIFFICULTY IN FINDING THE LAMASERY 
AND VILLAGE — A BARK !— ARRIVAL AT LAST — GENTLE TAPPING — UNDER 
A ROOF 264 

CHAPTER XLIV 

THE INTERIOR OF A SERAI — VERMIN — FISH, LOCAL JEWELRY, AND POTTERY 

FOR SALE — FAVORITE SHAPES AND PATTERNS — HOW POTTERY IS MADE . 268 

CHAPTER XLV 

FRIENDLY LAMAS — CHANDEN SING AND MAN SING PURIFIED — MANSING'S SAR- 
CASM — PILGRIMS TO MANS ARO WAR AND THEIR PRIVILEGES—FOR LUCK ! — 
OUTSIDE THE GOMBA 272 

CHAPTER XLVI 

ENTERING THE LAMASERY — THE LAMA'S DWELLING — NOVICES — WERE WE IN 
A TRAP ?— IMAGES — OBLATIONS — URGHIN — THE HOLY WATER, THE VEIL 
OF FRIENDSHIP, AND ABSOLUTION — MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, BOOKS, ETC. 
— GOD AND THE TRINITY — HEAVEN AND HELL — A MYSTERY 275 

CHAPTER XLVII 

THE JONG PEN'S STATEMENTS REGARDING ME— SECTS OF LAMAS — LAMASERIES 
— GOVERNMENT ALLOWANCE— IGNORANCE OF THE CROWDS — HOW LAMAS 
ARE RECRUITED — LAMAS, NOVICES, AND MENIALS — DANCES AND, HYPNO- 
TISM — INFALLIBILITY — CELIBACY AND VICE — SCULPTORS — PRAYER- WHEELS 
AND REVOLVING INSTRUMENTS — NUNNERIES— HUMAN BONES FOR EATING- 
VESSELS AND MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS — BLOOD-DRINKING 28l 

CHAPTER XLVIII 

ILLNESSES AND REMEDIES — CURIOUS THEORIES ABOUT FEVER — EVIL SPIRITS — 
BLACKSMITH AND DENTIST — EXORCISMS — SURGICAL OPERATIONS — MASSAGE 
AND CUPPING — INCURABLE ILLNESSES — DEFORMITIES — DEAFNESS — FITS 
AND INSANITY — MELANCHOLIA — SUICIDES 2gO 

CHAPTER XLIX 

A TIBETAN MEDICINE - MAN — LUMBAGO, AND A STARTLING CURE FOR IT — 
COMBUSTIBLE FUSEES — FIRE AND BUTTER — PRAYERS, AGONY, AND DIS- 
TORTIONS — STRANGE IDEAS ON MEDICINE 3OO 

CHAPTER L 

TUCKER VILLAGE — CHOKDENS — HOUSES — FLYING PRAYERS — SOLDIERS OR ROB- 
BERS ? — A STAMPEDE — FRESH PROVISIONS — DISAPPOINTMENT — TREACHERY 
— SHOKAS LEAVE ME — OBSERVATIONS — FIVE MEN, ALL COUNTED . . . 304 

xii 



CONTENTS 

BOOK II 



CHAPTER LI pagh 

THE START WITH A FURTHER REDUCED PARTY — A RECONNAISSANCE — NATURAL 
FORTRESS— BLACK TENTS AND ANIMALS— ON THE WRONG TACK — SLINGS 
AND THEIR USE — A VISIT TO A TIBETAN CAMP — MISTAKEN FOR BRIGANDS 
— BARGAINING AND BEGGING I 

CHAPTER LII 

WHAT THE MEN WERE LIKE — THEIR TIMIDITY LEATHER - WORK — METAL- 
WORK — BLADES AND SWORDS— FILIGREE — SADDLES AND HARNESS — PACK- 
SADDLES 6 

CHAPTER LIII 

RAIN IN TORRENTS— A MISERABLE NIGHT — A GORGE — A GIGANTIC INSCRIPTION 
— SHELTERED UNDER BOWLDERS — A FRESH SURPRISE — ONLY TWO FOL- 
LOWERS LEFT 12 

CHAPTER LIV 

MY TIME FULLY OCCUPIED — OUR OWN YAK DRIVERS — A HEAVY BLOW — ALONG 

THE STREAM — SOLDIERS IN PURSUIT OF US— DISCOVERED 15 

CHAPTER LV 

AN INTERVIEW — PEACE OR WAR? — GIFTS AND THE SCARF OF FRIENDSHIP — 

THE KATA — THE END OF A FRIENDLY VISIT ig 

CHAPTER LVI 

RAIN IN TORRENTS — A SWAMPY PLAIN — THE SUN AT LAST — OUR YAKS STOLEN 

AND RECOVERED 23 

CHAPTER LVII 

TRAVELLING TIBETANS — OVER A HIGH PASS — A FRIENDLY MEETING — A PROF- 
FERED BANQUET — ASCENT TO 20,000 FEET — LOOKING FOR THE GUNKYO 
LAKE— SURPRISED BY A PHANTOM ARMY 28 

CHAPTER LVIII 

A SLEEPLESS NIGHT — WATCHING OUR ENEMY — A PICTURESQUE SIGHT — A MES- 
SENGER — SOLDIERS FROM LHASSA — TAKEN FOR A KASHMEREE — THE GUNK- 
YO LAKE 32 

xiii 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER LIX page 

IN PLEASANT COMPANY — UNPOPULARITY OF THE LAMAS— SOLDIERS — TOWARDS 
THE MAIUM PASS — GRASS — THREATS — PUZZLED TIBETANS — THE MAIUM 
PASS — OBOS 36 

CHAPTER LX 

THE MATUM PASS — INTO THE YUTZANG PROVINCE — ITS CAPITAL — THE DOKTOL 
PROVINCE— ORDERS DISREGARDED — THE SOURCES OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA 
— CHANGE IN THE CLIMATE — THE VALLEY OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA — RUN- 
NING RISKS 40 

CHAPTER LXI 

EXPECTING TROUBLE — ALONG THE BRAHMAPUTRA — A THUNDERSTORM — A 
DILEMMA — A DANGEROUS RIVER — SWAMPED — SAVED — NIGHT DISTURBERS 
— A NEW FRIEND 44 

CHAPTER LXII 

LEAVING THE COURSE OF THE RIVER— A PASS — AN ARID PLAIN— MORE VAN- 
ISHING SOLDIERS — ANOTHER RIVER — A MAN! WALL— MIRAGE ? — A LARGE . 
TIBETAN ENCAMPMENT — THE CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS NORTH OF US . . 48 

CHAPTER LXIII 

A COMMOTION— AN INVITATION DECLINED — THE TENTS — DELICACIES — THE 

CHOKSEH 51 

CHAPTER LXIV 

REFUSAL TO SELL FOOD — WOMEN — THEIR LOOKS AND CHARACTERISTICS — THE 

TCHUKTI—& LHASSA LADY 56 

CHAPTER LXV 

POLYANDRY — MARRIAGE CEREMONIES — JEALOUSY — DIVORCE — IDENTIFICATION 

OF CHILDREN — COURTSHIP — ILLEGITIMACY — ADULTERY 6l 

CHAPTER LXVI 

TIBETAN FUNERALS — DISPOSAL OF THEIR DEAD — BY CREMATION — BY WATER 
— CANNIBALISM — STRANGE BELIEFS — REVOLTING BARBARITY — DRINKING 
HUMAN BLOOD — THE SAINTS OF TIBET . . . 69 

CHAPTER LXVII 

ANOTHER COMMOTION— TWO HUNDRED SOLDIERS — A STAMPEDE — EASY TRAV- 
ELLING — A LONG MAN/ WALL — MOSQUITOES 74 

CHAPTER LXVIII 

WASHING - DAY — A LONG MARCH — KIANG AND ANTELOPE — BENIGHTED — THE 
PURCHASE OF A GOAT — RAMIFICATIONS OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA — A DETOUR 
— THROUGH A SWAMP — MANSING AGAIN LOST AND FOUND 77 

CHAPTER LXIX 

THE ALARM GIVEN — OUR BAD MANNERS — A PEACEFUL SETTLEMENT — A LARGE 

RIVER — GIGANTIC PEAK — AGAIN ON MARSHY SOIL 82 

xiv 






CONTENTS 



i 



CHAPTER LXX page 

ANOTHER TIBETAN ENCAMPMENT — UNCONTROLLABLE ANIMALS — A BIG STREAM 
— WASHED AWAY — IN DREADFUL SUSPENSE — RESCUING THE YAK — DIVING 
AT GREAT ALTITUDES AND ITS EFFECTS — HOW MY TWO FOLLOWERS GOT 
ACROSS — A PRECARIOUS OUTLOOK AND A LITTLE COMFORT 86 

CHAPTER LXXI 

HUNGRY AND WORN — A SENSE OF HUMOR — TWO BUCKETS OF MILK — NO FOOD 
TO BE OBTAINED— CHANDEN SING AND MANSING IN A WRETCHED STATE 
— THEIR FIDELITY — EXHAUSTION 90 

CHAPTER LXXII 

EIGHTY BLACK TENTS — STARVED— KINDLY NATIVES — PRESENTS— ANDO AND 

HIS PROMISES — A FRIENDLY LAMA — A LOW PASS — MY PLANS • • • • 93 

CHAPTER LXXIII 

STRANGE NOISES— ANDO THE TRAITOR — PURCHASING PROVISIONS AND PONIES 
— A HANDSOME PONY — DECOYED AWAY FROM MY TENT AND RIFLES — 
POUNCED UPON — THE FIGHT — A PRISONER 96 

CHAPTER LXXIV 

CHANDEN SING'S PLUCKY RESISTANCE — MANSING SECURED — A SIGNAL — A 
TREACHEROUS LAMA — CONFISCATION OF BAGGAGE — WATCHES, COMPASSES, 
AND ANEROIDS — FEAR AND AVIDITY— THE AIR-CUSHION — DRAGGED INTO 
THE ENCAMPMENT IOO 

CHAPTER LXXV 

A WARNING TO MY MEN — CALM AND COOLNESS — THE POMBO'S TENT — CHAN- 
DEN SING CROSS-EXAMINED AND FLOGGED IO4 

CHAPTER LXXVI 

LED BEFORE THE TRIBUNAL — THE POMBO — CLASSICAL TIBETAN BEYOND ME — 
CHANDEN SING LASHED — THE LAMAS PUZZLED — A SUDDEN CHANGE IN 
THE POMBO'S ATTITUDE 107 

CHAPTER LXXVII 

MY NOTE-BOOKS AND MAPS— WHAT THE LAMAS WANTED ME TO SAY — MY 
REFUSAL — ANGER AND THREATS — ANDO, THE TRAITOR — CHANDEN SING'S 
HEROISM — A SCENE OF CRUELTY — RAIN IIO 

CHAPTER LXXVIII 

A HIGH MILITARY OFFICER — A LIKELY FRIEND — A SOLDIER AND NOT A LAMA 

— HIS SYMPATHY — FACTS ABOUT THE TIBETAN ARMY II4 

CHAPTER LXXIX 

SARCASM APPRECIATED — KINDNESS — A CHANGE FOR THE WORSE — THE PLACE 

FOR AN ENGLISHMAN — VERMIN — A TIBETAN PRAYER 117 

CHAPTER LXXX 



THE RUPUN AS A FRIEND — TREATED WITH RESPECT AND DEFERENCE — FED 

BY THE RUPUN AND SOLDIERS — IMPROVING MY KNOWLEDGE OF TIBETAN 120 

XV 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER LXXXI page 

A BEARER OF BAD NEWS— MARCHED OFF TO THE MUD-HOUSE — MANSING — 
INSULTS AND HUMILIATIONS — IRON HANDCUFFS INSTEAD OF ROPES— THE 
RUPUN'S SYMPATHY— NO MORE HOPE — IN THE HANDS OF THE MOB . . 123 

CHAPTER LXXXII 

A PITIFUL SCENE — A STRUGGLE TO GET TO CHANDEN SING — BRUTALLY TREAT- 
ED — A TORTURING SADDLE — ACROSS COUNTRY AT A GALLOP — A SPIRITED 
PONY — SAND DEPOSITS AND HILLS — SPECULATION — MORE HORSEMEN COM- 
ING TOWARDS US 128 

CHAPTER LXXXIII 

AT AN UNPLEASANT PACE — DRAWING NEAR THE CAVALCADE— A PICTURESQUE 
SIGHT — A SHOT FIRED AT ME — TERRIBLE EFFECTS OF THE SPIKES ALONG 
MY SPINE — THE ROPE BREAKS — AN ILL OMEN — A SECOND SHOT MISSES 
ME — ARROWS — THE END OF MY TERRIBLE RIDE 132 

CHAPTER LXXXIV 

INTENSE PAIN — HUSTLED TO THE EXECUTION-GROUND — STRETCHED AND TIED 
— THIRSTING FOR BLOOD — A PARADE OF TORTURING APPLIANCES — THE 
MUSIC — THE TARAM I37 

CHAPTER LXXXV 

BLEEDING ALL OVER — INSULTED AND SPAT UPON — " KILL HIM!" — URGING ON 
THE EXECUTIONER — REFUSAL TO STOOP — AN UNPLEASANT SWORD EXER- 
CISE — THE EXECUTION SUSPENDED I4I 

CHAPTER LXXXVI 

MANSING ARRIVES — A PRETENCE OF KILLING HIM — OUR EXECUTION POSTPONED 

— FED BY THE LAMAS I46 

CHAPTER LXXXVII 

HAPPINESS CHECKED — STRETCHED ON THE RACK — MANSING SHARES MY FATE 

— DRENCHED AND IN RAGS — AN UNSOLVED MYSTERY I49 

CHAPTER LXXXVIII 

MANSING PARTIALLY UNTIED AFTER TWELVE HOURS ON THE RACK — NUMBED 
— HOW THE BRAIN WORKS UNDER SUCH CIRCUMSTANCES — MY SCIENTIFIC 
INSTRUMENTS — THE END OF MY PHOTOGRAPHIC PLATES — A PAINT-BOX 
ACCUSED OF OCCULT POWERS — AN OFFER REFUSED — COURTESY AND CRU- 
ELTY COMBINED I53 

CHAPTER LXXXIX 

AN UNKNOWN ARTICLE IN TIBET — MY SPONGE BEWITCHED — A LAMA FIRES 

MY MARTINI-HENRY — THE RIFLE BURSTS 156 

CHAPTER XC 

A CONSULTATION — UNTIED FROM THE RACK — THE MOST TERRIBLE TWENTY- 
FOUR HOURS OF MY LIFE — I LOSE THE USE OF MY FEET — CIRCULATION 
RETURNING — INTENSE PAIN — SPORTS I59 

xvi 

1 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XCI page 

A GREAT RELIEF— THE POMBO'S ATTENTIONS — A WEIRD HYPNOTIC DANCE . . 162 

CHAPTER XCII 

COMPLIMENTS EXCHANGED — A POISONED DRINK PROFFERED — IN ACUTE PAIN 
— UNCERTAINTY AS TO OUR FATE — WORKING THE ORACLE — MY WEBBED 
FINGERS 165 

CHAPTER XCIII 

OUR LIVES TO BE SPARED — AN UNPLEASANT MARCH— CHANDEN SING STILL 
ALIVE — A SLEEPLESS NIGHT — TOWARDS THE FRONTIER — LONG AND PAIN- 
FUL MARCHES — HOW WE SLEPT AT NIGHT — A MAP DRAWN WITH BLOOD 1 68 

CHAPTER XCIV 

SOUTH OF THE OUTWARD JOURNEY — SEVERITY OF OUR GUARD — VENTRILO- 
QUISM AND ITS EFFECTS — TERRIBLE BUT INSTRUCTIVE DAYS — THE SOUTH- 
ERN SOURCE OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA — LEAVING YUTZANG 1 72 

CHAPTER XCV 

EASIER TIMES — LARGE ENCAMPMENTS — SUFFOCATING A GOAT — A TARJUM'S 

ENCAMPMENT — TOKCHIM — OLD FRIENDS — MUSICIANS — CHARITY . . . . 1 75 

CHAPTER XCVI 

TOWARDS MANSAROWAR — MANSING'S VISION — BATHING IN MANSAROWAR . . 1 79 

CHAPTER XCVII 

SUNA — WILSON AND THE POLITICAL PESHKAR ACROSS THE FRONTIER — A MES- 
SENGER — OUR PROGRESS STOPPED — DIVERTING US OVER THE LUMPIYA 
PASS — CONDEMNED TO CERTAIN DEATH — WE ATTACK OUR GUARD— LAP- 
SANG AND THE JONG PEN'S PRIVATE SECRETARY — A DOCUMENT — NEARING 
KARDAM — RETRACING OUR STEPS — DOGMAR 1 82 

CHAPTER XCVIII 

A COMMOTION — THE ARRIVAL OF AN ARMY — ELECTED GENERAL-IN-CHIEF — 
HOW WE WERE TO SLAUGHTER THE JONG PEN'S SOLDIERS — MY MEN LAY 

DOWN THEIR ARMS — TOWARDS TAKLAKOT — DELALING AND SIBLING 

TAKLAKOT AT LAST 189 

CHAPTER XCIX 

FREE AT LAST — AMONG FRIENDS — FORGETTING OUR PAST TROUBLES — CONFIS- 
CATED BAGGAGE RETURNED — A SCENE WITH NERBA — SUNA'S MESSAGE 
DELIVERED — HOW OUR RELEASE WAS BROUGHT ABOUT — ACROSS THE 
FRONTIER — PHOTOGRAPHY AT GUNGI 1 93 

CHAPTER C 

CIVILIZATION ONCE MORE— PARALYSIS — THE TINKER PASS IN NEPAL — KINDLY 
NATIVES — MR. LARKIN — GOVERNMENT INQUIRY — BACK TO TIBET — FINAL 
GOOD-BYE TO THE FORBIDDEN LAND— THE RETURN JOURNEY — FAREWELL 
TO MANSING — HOME AGAIN 200 

APPENDIX 211 

t 

xvii 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

BOOK I 

PAGE 

A. Henry Savage Landor and his Two Faithful Ser- ) 

> . . Frontispiece 

vants ) 

A Chinese Passport I 

My Start from Naini Tal Facing 6 

Lepers " 8 

My Faithful Companion 10 

Castle at Pithoragarh 13 

RaOtS Facing \\ 

My Abode at Askote 15 

A Young Man 18 

Raot on Tree 19 

Head of Young Man 21 

Two Men Sitting Down with Children 23 

A Young Man 24 

Raot Women of the Forest 27 

The Rajivvar of Askote, his Brother and Son 29 

Fakir Returning from Mansarowar 30 

The Rajiwar and his Brother in Dandies 35 

Darma Shokas and Tibetans 40 

Shoka Weavers 48 

Shrine and Flying Prayers 51 

House of a Wealthy Shoka Facing 52 

Wrinkled Shoka 54 

Lai Sing Tokudar and his Brother 55 

The Tent 61 

Nerpani Road 63 

The Nerpani Road 66 

The Nerpani Road 67 

The Chai-Lek Pass 68 

Narrow Gorge Between Two Mountains 69 

The Gates of Garbyang 72 

Garbyang Facing 72 

Matan Sing Chaprassi— Narenghiri Chaprassi 75 

xix 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

The House Where I Stayed at Garbyang . . 78 

Shoka House with Strange Ladder 79 

Shoka Houses 81 

Shoka Child Being Smeared with Butter 85 

The Master of a High-school, Altitude 10,940 Feet ...... 86 

Gungi Shankom . . 87 

Zazzela Mount, near Gungi . . . 89 

Chiram .§ . 90 

Involuntary Tobogganing Fating 90 

Shoka Child Smeared with Butter, and Left to Absorb Butter in 

the Sun 91 

Kuti 93 

Snow Bridges Over the Kuti River Facing 94 

Old Shoka Woman Smoking 95 

Chanden Sing and the Daku Rolling Up my Bedding 96 

A Well-attended School .98 

My Banker and Agent 101 

The Valley of Garbyang 103 

Motema, a Shoka Beauty 105 

On the Way to the Rambang 106 

Shoka Ear-rings 107 

Silver Ear-rings of Tibetan Origin, with Coral Beads 108 

Shoka Woman Weaving 109 

Rambang Girls with Ornaments in 

Weeping Women Under White Cloth 113 

Shoka Funeral Pile 114 

Dance in Front of Deceased Man's House Fating 116 

Women Dusting and Caressing the Lay-figure 116 

Women Dancing Round the Lay-figure 117 

Martial Dance Round Lay-figure Fating 118 

The Goat, with Soul of Deceased, Being Fed 119 

Goat, with Soul and Clothes of Deceased 120 

Yak Driven Over Precipice Fating 120 

Sending the Goat Away from the Village 121 

Tearing Out the Heart of the Goat 122 

Kachi and his Relations 124 

The Patan Summoning my Coolies from the Roof of his House . . 125 

The Chongur Bridge Previous to Being Destroyed 128 

A Perilous Passage Fating 130 

The Photograph that Caused the Child's Death 135 

Plan of Kuti Castle 138 

Mansing, the Leper, Showing his Hands 140 

The Kuti Castle Fating 142 

XX 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass . . . - 144 

Camping in Snow Facing 148 

The Snow-line at 16,000 Feet 151 

The Mangshan Glacier Facing 154 

"I Roused the Rongba " . . 163 

Ascending the Lumpiya Pass „ Facing 166 

The Lumpiya Glacier and Pass . . . " 168 

Spied " 172 

My Men Salaaming Kelas at Lama Chokden " 176 

The Arrival of Reinforcements " 186 

The Barca Tarjum and his Officers " 190 

"At Night I Led my Men Up the Mountain in a Fierce 

Snow-storm " " 204 

Buried in Snow " 210 

Dacoits with a Booty of Sheep " 214 

Sheep Carrying Load 214 

Behind Our Bulwarks Facing 222 

Our First View of Rakastal 237 

Rakastal and Mansarowar Lakes 238-239 

A Dacoit 244 

The Bandits Laid Down Their Arms Facing 248 

Pack-saddles for Yaks 250 

White Woollen Coat and Sashes ) 

Woollen Socks \ 253 

Man's Boot, Made at Sigatz 1 

Snow-boot 



Woman's Boot 



::: ::■::::::::::::: | 

Boot Made in Lhassa J 

Hat Worn by Officials 256 

A Black Yak 260 

My TWO Yaks Facing 260 

Silver Lhassa Coins \ 

Copper Coins v 269 

Ear-ring Worn by Men ) 

Silver Charm \ 

Gold-and-Malachite Brooch \ '° 

Mansarowar Pottery . . . 271 

Entrance to the Tucker Temple 276 

Stone with Inscription 286 

Stone with Inscription 287 

Prayer-wheels, Ancient and Modern. Showing Rolls of Prayers to 

Go Inside 288 

Branch with Thorns to Prevent Return of Evil Spirits 294 

xx i 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

A Medicine-man . 301 

Tucker Village and Gomba e . . . Facing 304 

The Panku Gomba 306 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

BOOK II 



A Naturaf Castle Facing 2 

Sling 3 

Woman Carrying Child in Basket 4 

Tibetan Young Man 7 

Swords 8 

Saddle 9 

Camp with Gigantic Inscription Facing 12 

Yak with Cases of Scientific Instruments 16 

With Only Two Men I Proceed Towards Lhassa 17 

A Kata 20 

Torrential Rain Facing 24 

Head of Brigand 25 

Brigands with Sheep * .... 26 

Saddle-bags 27 

Phantom-like Visitors 30 

The Gunkyo Lake Facing 32 

"I am Only a Messenger" 34 

Matchlocks 37 

Source of the Brahmaputra 41 

A Tibetan Dog 46 

Small Mani Wall 47 

An Effect of Mirage 49 

The Interior of a Tent Facing 52 

Black Tent 52 

A Dongbo, or Tea Churn 53 

Tramgo ) 

Small Tramba Bag, Carried on the Person by Tibetans . . . . S 

Tibetan Women and Children Facing 56 

Tibetan Hair-brushes and Flint-and-steel Pouch 57 

A Lady from Lhassa Facing 58 

The Tchukti . . 59 

Money-bags 60 

Woman whose Face is Smeared with Black Ointment 62 

xxiii 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Tibetan Woman 64 

The Lady in Question 67 

Tibetan Children . . . Facing 70 

A Young Lamas 70 

A Red Lama 71 

Cup Made of Human Skull ) 

Chokden, or Tomb of a Saint \ 

A Mani Wall on the Road to Lhassa Facing 74 

"And I Give You This to Make You Go Back " 75 

Our Yaks Sinking in Mud 79 

Kiang 80 

Carpenter and Saddle-maker 83 

Old Woman 84 

Contrivance for Carrying Loads &6 

Rescuing a Yak 87 

Myself Drinking Out of a Bucket 91 

Shrine Inside Tent 92 

Mud Guard-house 94 

Tibetan Bellows 95 

Purchasing Ponies Facing 96 

A Distaff 96 

Rope Riding-whip 97 

I Was a Prisoner 98 

Dragged into the Settlement Facing 100 

Ear-ring Worn by High Officials 100 

A Spear 102 

Tibetans Overhauling Our Baggage 103 

The Pombo's Tent 105 

Chanden Sing Being Flogged Facing 108 

The Pombo 108 

A Soldier no 

Soldier with Pigtail Wound Round His Head in 

An Officer 112 

Purse \ 

Flint and Steel > 114 

Snuffbox > 

Flint-and-steel Pouch 115 

Leather Horsewhip 116 

Charm-box 118 

Puku, or Wooden Cup (Two Views) 120 

Soldier Laying before Me the Programme of Tortures 124 

My Handcuffs 125 

Padlock and Key . , 126 

xxiv 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Tibetan Hut 127 

"Sir, Sir, I am Dying!" 129 

Spiked Saddle . . . . . 130 

Nerba Firing at Me 133 

The Ride on a Spiked Saddle Fusing 134 

Coat I Wore at the Time of my Capture, and Showing Effect of Spikes 135 

A Bannerman Facing 138 

A Display of Various Instruments of Torture 138 

Lama Musicians 139 

The Taram 140 

The Executioner Brought the Sword Down to my Neck .... 143 

Thus Elapsed Twenty-four Terrible Hours 151 

Belt, with Bullet and Powder Pouches, Dagger, Needle-case, and Flint 

and Steel 157 

Martini-Henry Exploded 158 

The Pombo's Contortions 163 

The Finale of the Dance 164 

Chanden Sing Tied to a Post Facing 168 

A White Yak 169 

Maps Drawn in Blood During Captivity Facing 170 

One of Our Guard 173 

Strolling Musicians Facing 176 

Soldier Suffocating Goat 176 

Old Beggar 177 

Interior of a Serai Facing 180 

A Tibetan Shepherd 180 

Tea Churn (Open) 182 

A Messenger of Bad News 183 

A Sh oka-Tibetan Half-caste Facing 184 

Sheep Loads for Borax and Grain 184 

A Jumli Shed 185 

We Attacked our Guard with Stones Facing 186 

Lapsang and the Jong Pen's Private Secretary 186 

Cliff Habitations Facing 190 

Jumli Trader and his Wife in Tibet 190 

Chokdens Near Taklakot 191 

The Author, February, 1897 \ 

The Author, October, 1897 \ *""** ' 94 

Pundit Gobaria 194 

Dr. Wilson 195 

" ' I Told You,' Exclaimed the Old Savage, ' That Whoever \ 

Visits the Home of the Raots will have Misfortune'" v Facing 196 

A Picturesque Bit of Almora ) 

xxv 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Karak Sing, the Political Peshkar . . . . . . . 196 

Mansing Showing Cuts under his Feet 197 

Chanden Sing's Legs, Showing Marks of Lashes and Wounds Healed 198 

On the Lippu Pass \ 

Mr. Larkin Looking Out for the Jong Pen from the Lippu y Facing 200 

Pass ) 

Mr. J. Larkin 200 

Chanden Sing and Mansing Enjoying their First Meal According to 

the Rules of their Castes 201 

Tinker in Nepal Facing 202 

A Shaky Passage on the Nerpani Road 202 

View of Askote — Showing Raj i war s Palace 203 

A Tibetan Temporary Shed Facing 204 

Snap-shot of Shoka Villagers being Routed 204 

Dr. Wilson, Myself, Mr. Larkin, the Political Peshkar, and Jagat 

Sing Ready to Ascend the Lippu Pass 205 

Mr. Larkin's Party and Mine Halting Near the Lippu Pass Facing 206 

The Last Glance at the Forbidden Land 206 

Bathing at 16,300 Feet 207 

Dharchula. Deserted Habitations of Shokas 208 

Raots Listening to the Account of my Misfortunes 209 



MAP 

PAGE 

Southwestern Tibet, Showing Author's Route and Return Jour- 
ney 251 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

BOOK I 




A CHINESE PASSPORT 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



CHAPTER I 

FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL 



On leaving London, I intended to proceed via Ger- 
many to Russia, traverse Russian Turkestan, Bokhara, 
and Chinese Turkestan, and from there enter Tibet. 
The Russian Government had readily granted me a spe- 
cial permission to take free of duty through their terri- 
tory my fire-arms, ammunition, provisions, photographic 
cameras, surveying and other scientific instruments, and, 

L— A I 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

moreover, informed me, through His Excellency Sir Nich- 
olas O'Conor, then our Ambassador in St. Petersburg, that 
I should be privileged to travel on the military railway 
through Turkestan as far as the terminus at Samarakand. 
I feel under a great obligation to the Russian Embassy 
in London for the extreme courtesy shown me, and I 
desire to acknowledge this at the outset, especially be- 
cause that route might very likely have saved me much 
of the suffering and disappointment I was subjected to 
through going by way of India. 

I was provided with introductions and credentials from 
the Marquis of Salisbury, the British Museum of Natural 
History, etc.; I was carrying scientific instruments for 
the Royal Geographical Society, and I had a British and 
two Chinese passports. 

Having forwarded all my explosives by an ammuni- 
tion vessel to Russia (the German railways absolutely 
refusing to carry cartridges), I heard, to my dismay, only 
a few days previous to leaving London, that the steamer 
had stranded just before reaching her port of destination, 
and that grave doubts were entertained as to the possi- 
bility of saving even a portion of her cargo. This was 
at the time of the outbreak of the Turco-Greek war, and 
the Russians were reported to be mobilizing their troops 
along the Afghan frontier. I did not wish to delay m) 
journey, and although my preparations were complete for 
going through Russia, I nevertheless decided to abandon 
that plan and go to India, with a view to penetrating over 
the Himahlya into Tibet. I sailed for India on March 
19th, on the P. & O. steamship Peninsular, and reached 
Bombay three weeks later. 

It was my first visit to India, and my first impression 
was certainly not a good one. The heat was intense, and 
signs of the plague were discernible everywhere. The 

2 



THE PLAGUE 

streets were deserted, and the hotels bad and dirty for 
want of servants, who had abandoned the town in fear 
of the scourge. 

Accompanied by a Parsee friend, I went to several of 
the districts of Bombay chiefly affected by the disease, 
but I noticed, wherever I went, little else than a strong 
odor of disinfectants. It is true, there were few houses 
in those parts which had not ten, twenty, and even more 
circular red marks, denoting as many deaths, and on one 
door, which I photographed, I counted no less than forty- 
nine circles. But I was unable to gauge personally with 
any sort of accuracy the nature or extent of the disease, 
beyond seeing in the hospitals a few violent cases of bu- 
bonic attacks. 

On the day following my arrival in Bombay I pro- 
ceeded by rail to Bareilly, which was reached in three 
days, and from there one more night brought me to 
Kathgodam, the terminus of the railway line. Travel- 
ling partly by tonga (a two-w r heeled vehicle drawn by two 
horses) and partly on horseback, I found myself at last at 
Naini Tal, a hill station in the lower Himahlyas, and the 
summer seat of the Government of the Northwest Prov- 
inces and Oudh, from whence I wrote to the Lieutenant- 
Governor, informing him of my intention to proceed to 
Tibet. I also called on the Deputy Commissioner and 
made him fully acquainted with my plans. Neither one 
nor the other of these gentlemen raised the slightest ob- 
jection to my intended journey into the sacred Land of 
the Lamas. 






CHAPTER II 

LOADS— A SET OF USEFUL PACK-SADDLE CASES— PROVISIONS AND SCIEN- 
TIFIC OUTFIT— CLOTHES AND SHOES— MEDICINES— UNDER WAY — THE 
FIRST MARCH — SERVANTS — HOW I CAME TO EMPLOY FAITHFUL 
CHANDEN SING 

I knew that from Naini Tal, 6407 feet (sixty feet above 
lake level), all my loads would have to be transported on 
the backs of coolies, and therefore they had to be divided 
into equal weights not exceeding twenty-five seers, or fifty 
pounds. I packed instruments, negatives, and articles lia- 
ble to get damaged in cases of my own make, designed 
especially for rough usage. A set of four such cases, of 
well-seasoned deal wood, carefully joined and fitted, zinc- 
lined, and soaked in a special preparation of mine by which 
they were rendered water and air tight, could be made use- 
ful in many ways. Taken separately they could be used 
as seats ; four placed in a row answered the purpose of 
bedstead ; three could be used as seat and table ; and the 
combination of four, used in a certain manner, made a 
punt or boat of quick, solid, and easy construction, by 
which an unfordable river could be crossed or soundings 
taken in the still waters of a lake. The cases could also 
be used as baths for myself and my followers (if I could 
induce these to so far indulge), and also, in the develop- 
ing of my negatives, as tanks to properly wash my plates. 
I conjectured even that in case of emergency they might 
serve as water-casks in arid regions, if I should have to 
traverse any. One of these boxes packed was exactly a 
coolie load, and two could be easily slung over a pack- 

4 






A SET OF USEFUL CASES 

saddle by means of straps and rings. It was due mainly 
to the stoutness and strength of these cases that, notwith- 
standing the amount of knocking about they got, my pho- 
tographic and painting work, as well as my maps, instru- 
ments, etc., were really in no way injured until we fell into 
the hands of the Tibetans. Fortunately, the most im- 
portant part of my work, from a scientific point of view, 
had already been accomplished. My provisions were 
prepared for me by the Bovril Company, after instruc- 
tions furnished by me, with a view to the severe Tibetan 
climate and the altitudes we should find ourselves in. 
They contained a vast amount of fat and carbonaceous 
food, as well as ingredients easily digestible and calcu- 
lated to maintain one's strength even in moments of un- 
usual stress. I had them packed in tin cases and skin 
bags. I carried in a water-tight box iooo cartridges for 
my .256 Mannlicher rifle, besides 500 cartridges for my 
revolver, and a number of hunting-knives, skinning imple- 
ments, wire traps of several sizes for capturing small 
mammals, butterfly nets, bottles for preserving reptiles in 
alcohol, insect- killing bottles (cyanide of potassium), a 
quantity of arsenical soap, bone nippers, scalpels, and all 
other accessories necessary for the collection of natural- 
history specimens. There were three sets of photographic 
apparatus in my outfit, and one hundred and fifty-eight 
dozen dry plates, as well as all adjuncts for the devel- 
oping, fixing, etc., of the negatives as they were taken. 
The collecting materials were given me by the British 
Museum of Natural History, to which institution I had 
promised to present all specimens of fauna and flora 
I might collect during my journey. I had two sets of 
instruments for astronomical observation and for use 
in surveying (one of which had been furnished me by 
the Royal Geographical Society), such as the six -inch 

5 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

sextant, hypsometrical apparatus for measuring heights, 
with boiling-point thermometers specially constructed for 
very great altitudes ; two aneroids, one to 20,000 feet, the 
other to 25,000 feet ; three artificial horizons (one mercury, 
the others plate-glass with levels); a powerful telescope 
with astronomical eye-piece and stand ; a prismatic, a 
luminous, a floating, and two pocket compasses; maximum 
and minimum thermometers; a case of drawing-instru- 
ments, protractors, parallel rules, tape rules, a silver water- 
tight half -chronometer watch and three other watches, 
section paper in books and in large sheets, Rapers and 
the Nautical Almanac for 1897 and 1898. 

Not to neglect the artistic aspect of my expedition, I 
had provided myself with ample painting and drawing 
materials. The illustrations in this volume are repro- 
duced from my own drawings and photographs. 

I was provided with a very light mountain tente d'abri, 
seven feet long, four feet wide, and three feet high. Well 
accustomed to the sort of travelling I was in for, I decided 
that I required for myself only a camel-hair blanket in the 
way of bedding. I reduced my clothing also to a min- 
imum, and made no difference in it from start to finish. 
The only thing I ever missed was my straw hat, which 
I wore up in the Himahlyas just as I had worn it on 
the broiling plains, because it seemed to me always the 
most comfortable headgear. It was rendered unwearable 
through the clumsiness of one of my Shokas, to whom 
I had lent it to carry in it some swan eggs (presented 
by a friendly Shoka), and who fell with it, or on it, to 
the detriment and destruction both of vessel and load. 
After that I generally went about w r ith my head uncov- 
ered, as I only had a small cap left, which was not com- 
fortable. I wore medium thick shoes without nails, and 
never carried a stick, and I think it was due largely to 

6 



'■-- - "><k& :] 



> 

H 
O 

> 



> 




AT ALMORA 

the simplicity of my personal equipment that I was able, as 
will be seen presently, to climb to one of the greatest alti- 
tudes ever reached by a human being.* 

My provision of medicines cost me only half a crown, 
firm as I am in the belief that man, living naturally under 
natural conditions, and giving himself plenty of exercise, 
can be helped very little by drugs. 

And thus I started. 

On the first day I rode from Naini Tal to Almora, 
thirty miles by the lower and well - known road via 
Khairna. 

Almora (5510 feet) is the last hill station towards the 
frontier where I expected to find a European, or rather 
an Anglo - Indian, community, and I made it my head- 
quarters for a few days. It w r as my intention to obtain 
some reliable hill men, possibly Gourkhas, to accompany 
me. I applied in vain for this purpose to the Lieutenant- 
Colonel of the 1st 3d Gourkha Regiment quartered in 
the station, duly showing letters, introductions, and docu- 
ments, from the highest authorities and institutions in 
England, plainly demonstrating the scientific object of 
my journey to Tibet. 

The superior authorities seemed open to negotiations 
had I been able to afford a wait of several months ; but, 
as this would have involved the postponement of my 
journey for a year, on account of the passes leading into 
Tibet becoming impassable at the end of the summer, I 
decided to snap my fingers at all the red tape the job re- 
quired, and to start on my journey without the Gourkhas. 

As luck would have it, I came across a gentleman at 
Almora, a Mr. J. Larkin, who showed me great polite- 
ness and gave me much useful information with re- 

* See Appendix. Letter by Dr. H. Wilson. 

7 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

gard to the roads, the mode of travelling, etc., on the 
British side of the Tibetan frontier. He had himself 
travelled nearly up to the boundary the previous year, 
and knew that part of Kumaon better than any Anglo- 
Indian in the province. In fact, with the exception of 
Colonel Grigg, Commissioner of Kumaon, Mr. Larkin 
was the only other official who had any knowledge at all 
of the northeast of Kumaon, now so neglected by the 
Government of the Northwest Provinces. 

Gourkhas being unobtainable, the question weighed 
heavily on my mind of obtaining plucky, honest, wiry, 
healthy servants, of whatever caste they might be, who 
would be ready, for the sake of a good salary and a hand- 
some reward, to brave the many discomforts, hardships, 
and perils my expedition was likely to involve. Both at 
Naini Tal and here scores of servants and Shikaris 
(sporting attendants) offered themselves. They one and 
all produced " certificates " of good conduct, irreproacha- 
ble honesty, good - nature, and willingness to work, and 
praises unbounded of all possible virtues that a servant 
could possess. Each certificate was duly ornamented 
with the signature of a General, a Captain, a Lieutenant- 
Governor, or some other considerable personage, but 
each bearer of such testimonial seemed sadly neglected 
by those who had been so enthusiastically pleased with 
his services, for he invariably commenced by asking for 
a loan of several rupees to purchase boots and blankets, 
and to enable him to support a wife with or without a 
family whom he would be leaving behind. 

I decided that my means did not permit of my sup- 
porting " the dear ones at home " of the two or three 
dozen followers I should require, and I made up my 
mind to wait and see whether I could not find men to 
suit me farther on my route without involving myself in 

8 



I 

w 

03 




MY FAITHFUL COMPANION 

the liability of supporting the entire population I left be- 
hind me. I made only one exception. I was sitting 
one fine day in my room at the Dak Bungalow (post 
resting-house) when an odd creature entered and offered 
his services, salaaming me. 

" Where are your certificates ?" I asked. 

"Sahib, hum 'certificates' ne hat" (Sir, I have no cer- 
tificates.) 

" Well, then I may employ you." 

I had previously had a good look at the fellow. His 
facial lines showed considerably more character and force 
than I had noticed in the features of other local natives. 
His attire was peculiar. He wore a white turban, and 
from under a short velvet waistcoat there protruded a 
gaudy flannel shirt in yellow and black stripes, which he 
wore oddly outside of his trousers instead of in them. 
He had no shoes, and carried in his right hand an old 
cricket stump, with which he " presented arms," as it 
were, every time I came in and went out of the room. 
I at once decided to try him. It was about nine o'clock 
in the morning when I, having many people to see, 
handed Chanden Sing — that was his name — a pair of 
shoes and some blacking. 

" Mind I find them clean when I return." 

II Acha, Sahib /" (All right, sir !) 

" You will find some brushes in my room." 

" Bahut acha, Sahib /" (Very good, sir !) 

I left. At six p.m., when I returned to my quarters, I 
found Chanden Sing still polishing my footgear with all 
his might. He had been at it the whole day, and had 
used for the purpose my best hair and clothes brushes. 

"Oh, you budmash ! crab log ! pagal 7" (Oh, you bad 
character! bad man! fool!) I exclaimed, disgusted, mak- 
ing as much display as possible of the only three or 

9 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 




four words I then knew of Hindustani. I snatched the 
blackened articles of toilet out of his hands, while he, with 
an air of wounded feelings, pointed out the wonderful re- 
sults he had achieved. 

It was clear that Chanden Sing was not much a valet, 
neither was he a master at opening soda-water bottles. 

He generally managed to 
give you a spray-bath, if he 
did not actually shoot the 
flying cork in your face. It 
was owing to one (by no 
means the first) of these ac- 
cidents that Chanden Sing, 
having hit my eye, was a 
few days later flung bodily 
out of the front door. I 
am very adverse to the hab- 
it of punishing the natives 
injudiciously and unjustly, 
but I believe that firm if 
not too severe a punishment 
administered in time is ab- 
solutely necessary with na- 
tive servants, and generally 
saves much trouble and un- 
pleasantness in the end. 
Anyhow, Chanden Sing, 
none the worse, returned the next day to get his cricket 
stump, which he had forgotten in his hurried and in- 
voluntary departure. He seized this opportunity to offer 
his humblest apologies for his clumsiness, and produced 
the following letter, which he had got written in English 
by a Babu in the Bazaar: 




MY FAITHFUL COMPANION 



IO 



FAITHFUL CHANDEN SING 

" Dear Sir, — I am a stupid man, but I hear you intend to take two 
Gourkha soldiers with you to Tibet. I am a good and very stout man, and 
therefore far superior to any Gourkha. Please employ me. 

" Your faithful servant, 

" Chanden Sing." 

This was touching, and I forgave him and allowed 
him to stay. He improved as time went on, and after a 
while became quite tolerable. One morning Mr. Larkin 
called when Chanden Sing happened to be about. 

" Who is that?" said Larkin. 

" That is my bearer." 

" But he is not a bearer. He was once a policeman, 
and a smart fellow, too. He worked out a good case in 
his own village, and had many people arrested and con- 
victed for theft. As a reward they sacked him." 

" I am thinking of taking him with me." 

" He is a good lad," replied Mr. Larkin. " You can, 
anyhow, take him as far as the frontier, but I would not 
advise you to take him into Tibet." 

Mr. Larkin counselled Chanden Sing to be diligent 
and attentive, and the ex-policeman beamed all over with 
joy when I told him definitely that he might accompany 
me to Bhot. He turned out to be the one plucky man 
among all my followers, and he stood by me through 
thick and thin. 



CHAPTER III 

PITHORAGARH — FAKIR WOMEN— A WELL-VENTILATED ABODE— ASKOTE— 
THE RAJIWAR AND HIS PEOPLE 

The country up to Bhot is comparatively well known, 
therefore I shall not dwell at length on the first portion of 
ray journey. 

On May 9th all my baggage, accompanied by two 
Chaprassis, left on its way to the frontier, and I followed 
on the next day. Two days' marching, at the rate of 
twenty-five miles a day, brought me to Shor, otherwise 
called Pithora^arh. 

The road is good all the way, running through thick 
forests of pine and fir trees, and you get here and there 
pretty views of wooded mountain ranges. Nevertheless, 
it is tiring, owing to the many ascents and descents, as 
will be seen from the following figures showing the 
principal elevations. From 5510 feet we climbed to 
7650 feet, descended to 2475 feet, climbed again up to 
6020 feet at Gangoli Hat, and redescended by a steep in- 
cline to 2500 feet. The intense heat prevented me from 
walking at my usual pace, and I did not, therefore, reach 
my destination before sundown. Walking on in the 
dark, we saw the distant flickering forest fires crawling 
here and there like incandescent snakes along or up the 
mountain-side ; these are caused by the igniting of the 
grass, shrubs, and undergrowth by the natives, the flames 
not unfrequently spreading and playing havoc among the 
finest trees of the forest. 

12 



CASTLE AT PITHORAGARH 

At Pithoragarh (6650 feet) there is the old Loudon 
Gourkha fort to be seen, on a hill -top, also a well-kept 
leper hospital, a school, and a mission-house. The soil 
is fertile, and there are many stretches of well-cultivated 
land dotted with habitations. Water is plentiful, and 
though the scenery certainly lacks trees except in the 
immediate neighborhood of the villages and houses, it 
has, nevertheless, a certain picturesqueness on account of 








CASTLE AT PITHORAGARH 



its background of wooded mountains. I started from 
Pithoragarh at 6.30 a.m.; leaving the road to Tal on the 
left, I followed the track at a medium elevation of 6250 
feet, arriving at Shadgora (6350 feet) just in time to 
witness the blessing of a calf by a Brahmin. Inside a 
diminutive shrine — into the door of which I was curi- 
ous enough to peep — I discovered two skinny, repulsive 
old women, with sunken, discolored eyes, untidy locks of 
scanty hair, long, unwashed, bony arms and legs, and fin- 
ger and toe nails of abnormal length. They were clad in 
a few dirty rags, and were busily attending to the lights 
burning on several primitive stone candlesticks along the 
walls of the shrine. There were also some curiously 
shaped stones standing upright among the candlesticks. 
The ceiling of this place of worship was not high enough 

13 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

to allow the women to stand, and they were compelled to 
crawl about inside on all fours. When they saw me they 
stretched out their angular arms towards me, begging for 
money. I gave them a silver coin, which they shoved 
under one of the peculiar stones, and then, turning 
round, immediately made violent gestures suggesting to 
me that I was to depart. 

Farther on I came upon a point where three roads 
branched off — to Deolthal (six miles) on the left, to Askote 
(twelve and three - quarter miles) in the centre, and to 
Pithoragarh (eleven and a quarter miles), a different 
route from the one followed, on the right. I took the 
middle one, and travelled on in a storm of hail and 
wind with a constant deafening roar of thunder and 
splendid flashes of lightning, which produced magical 
effects on the ever -changing and fantastic clouds and 
the weird mountain- sides along which I ploughed my 
way. 

I arrived late in the evening at Askote, where there 
is neither Dak Bungalow nor Daramsalla, # and found to 
my disgust that none of my carriers had yet arrived. I 
was offered hospitality by Pundit Jibanand, who put me 
up in his school-room, a structure consisting of a number 
of planks put together regardless of width, height, length, 
or shape, and supporting a roof of straw and grass. The 
ventilation of my abode was all one could wish for, and 
as during the night I lay wrapped up in my blanket 
under the sheltering roof I could admire through the 
disconnected portions of the walls the brilliancy of the 
star-studded heaven above. When the sun rose, bits of 
scenery appeared between plank and plank, until by de- 

* Daramsalla, a stone-walled shelter for the use of travellers and 
natives. 

14 



ASKOTE 




grees the gaps were all stopped up by figures of natives, 
who took possession of these points of vantage to gaze to 
their hearts' content on the sahib, who, with signs of 
evident suspense on the part of these spectators, managed 
even to shave. Hilarity, on the other hand, was caused 
when I smeared myself all over with soap while bathing- 
Admiration followed 
at my putting on my 
last starched shirt 
and other mysterious 
garments, but the ex- 
citement grew al- 
most to fever-heat 
when I went through 
the daily nuisance of 

I winding up my 
watches and re^is- 
tering daily observa- 
tions of temperature, 

etc. The strain was too much, I fancy, and a general 
stampede followed the moment I touched my unloaded 
rifle. 

The town of Askote is not unlike an old feudal castle 
such as are found in many parts of Central Italy. Perched 

; on the crown of a central hill, the Rajiwar's palace over- 

1 looks a fine panorama of mountains encircling it on all 
sides. Among the higher peaks discernible from the 
palace are the Chipla Mountain and the Dafia. Then 
across the Kali River, forming the boundary of Nepal, is 
Mount Dooti. The "gown" or town, itself numbers some 
two hundred houses scattered on the slope of the hill, and 

, includes a school, a post-office, and two Mahommedan 
shops. The Rajiwar had on my arrival just completed 
building a new Court, a simple and dignified structure of 

*5 



MY ABODE AT ASKOTE 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

brown stone, with fine wooden carvings on the windows 
and doors, and with chimneys in European fashion in 
each room. One wall in each room was left open, and 
formed a charming veranda, commanding a magnificent 
view of mountain scenery. 

The Rajiwar of Askote occupies a unique position in 
Kumaon. Having repurchased his right to the tenure of 
land in the Askote Pargana as late as 1855, he now pos- 
sesses the right of zamindar (translated literally, landed 
proprietor), and he is the only person to whom it has been 
granted to retain this privilege in the Kumaon Division. 
Jagat Sing Pal, the Rajiwar's nephew, assured me that 
the people of the Askote Pargana are brave and good- 
natured. They never give any trouble to the Rajiwar, 
who, on the other hand, is almost a father to them. They 
apply to him in every difficulty, in sickness and distress, 
and he looks after them in true patriarchal fashion. The 
Rajiwar is not rich, probably because he spends so much 
for the benefit of his people and of the strangers who 
pass through Askote. Many of these are little more than 
beggars, of course, even when they travel as fakirs, or 
other religious fanatics, going to or returning from the 
sacred Mansarowar Lake in Tibet. The present Rajiwar, # 
Pushkar Pal, belongs to the Ramchanda family, and he is 
a descendant of the Solar dynasty. His ancestors lived 
in Aoudh, or Ayodye (as it was formerly called), whence 
they migrated to the hills of Katyur in Kumaon, where 
they built a palace. The hill regions up to Killakanjia 
and the Jumna River were under the Raja of Katyur's 
rule, he assuming the title of Maharaja. A branch of the 
family came from Katyur to Askote, its chief retaining 
the hereditary title of Rajiwar besides that of Pal, which 

* Rajiwar (head of kingdom). 

16 



THE RAJIWAR AND HIS PEOPLE 

each male assumes. The Rajiwar pays a yearly tribute 
of 1800 rupees to the Government of India. In the time 
of the Gourkhas he paid nothing except occasional gifts 
of Nafas, or musk-deer, to his neighbor the King of 
Nepal, with whom he is still in very close relation. He 
was then practically an independent king. Still, Rajiwar 
Pushkar Pal has always been perfectly loyal to the Gov- 
ernment of India. 

" Are the people very obsequious to the Rajiwar ?" I 
asked of Jagat Sing Pal. 

"Yes, sir. For instance, when the Rajiwar sits on his 
Karoka (a kind of throne) he is saluted with a particularly 
respectful salaam. His subjects bring their hand up to 
the forehead and support the elbow with the left hand, as 
a sign that this salutation is so weighty that it requires 
the support of the other hand." 

At Court functions the male relatives, friends, and ser- 
vants sit near the Rajiwar, his brother first, his son next, 
then his nephews, etc. Women are of course not admitted. 



CHAPTER IV 

THE RAOTS— A SLIPPERY JOURNEY— SUPERSTITIOUS NOTIONS — ANGER 
AND JEALOUSY— FRIENDS — TO THE HOMES OF THE SAVAGES— PHO- 
TOGRAPHY — HABITATIONS. 



We had walked seventy-eight miles in three marches, 
and my men being footsore, I gave them a day's rest, 
which I employed in going to the haunts of 
the "Wild men of the forest/' or Raots or 
Rajis, as they style themselves. They live 
in the woods several miles off, and to reach 
them I had to descend a steep incline covered 
by an uncommonly slippery carpet of dried 
grass and pine-needles. I had to take off 
shoes and stockings to get along, and even 
barefooted I found it difficult to maintain 
my hold. I was accompanied by one of my 
chaprassis and a man from Askote, and we 
were forced down more swiftly than comfort- 
ably till we reached a faint track, which we 
followed until we came upon a man hiding 
behind some trees. He was a w T ild-looking 
creature, naked and unkempt, with flowing 
hair and scanty beard and mustache, and, regarding us 
with an air of suspicion, he was most reluctant to show 
us the way to the home of his tribe. He was a Raot, 
and his reluctance to let us approach his home seemed 
justified enough when he said to my guide, " No white 
man has ever visited our home, and should one ever come 
we shall all die. The spirits of the mountains will pre- 

18 




A YOUNG MAN 



A STIFF CLIMB 



vent your progress— not we. You will suffer pain, for 
the spirit who watches over the Raots will let no one 
enter their home." 

I gave the man a rupee, which he turned and weighed 
in his hand. 

" You can come," he 
muttered, " but you will 
regret it. You will have 
great misfortune." 

There w r as something so 

weirdly peculiar in the tone 

of voice in which the man 

spoke, as if he had been in BP^ 

a trance, himself only the 

channel through which the : ftiM 

threat of some occult being: 

was conveyed to us, that for m 

some minutes I could not 

get his words out of my ■ 

Pi r« 
head. I followed him as 

best I could, for he climbed *™ 
up huge boulders with the 
agility of a monkey. It was 

no easy job, for we bounded and leaped from rock to rock 
and vaulted over fallen trees. The track became more 
marked and went up along the incline of a steep ravine. 
We continued until, hot and panting, we arrived at a 
large hollow high up in the cliff of clay. There, on a 
semicircular platform, with obstacles of felled trees, 
were about a dozen men, almost devoid of clothing, 
some sitting on their heels and resting their arms on 
their knees, others lying down flat. One fellow smoked 
dry leaves inside a pipe of Hindoo origin. I took a pho- 
tograph of the group. With an air of suspicion mingled 

19 




RAOT ON TREE 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

with surprise and sadness, but no apparent fear, they 
stared at the unexpected visitors. Two of the elder 
men, having overcome their first stupor, sprang to their 
feet, and with mad gesticulations refused to let me 
come nearer. But I penetrated right into their circle, 
and found myself surrounded by a sulky and angry 
crowd. 

" No man has ever been here but a Raot. You will 
soon die. You have offended God !" screamed an old 
man in a sudden outburst of temper. He bent his knees 
and curved his spine, protruding his head towards me. 
He shook his fists in my face, waved them about in the 
air, opened and tightly clinched them, digging his nails 
furiously into his palms. Instead of contracting the scalp 
of his forehead, the old Raot raised his eyebrows and 
turned his polished forehead into a succession of deep 
wrinkles, stretching in a straight line across almost from 
ear to ear, and showing only a dark dimple over his nose. 
His nostrils, flat and broad to begin with, became widely 
expanded and raised so as to cause two deep lines to di- 
verge from the nose along his cheeks. His mouth was 
open, and a peculiar vacillation of the lower lip demon- 
strated plainly that its owner had but little command over 
speech and articulation. His eyes, which may have been 
brown originally, were discolored, probably through the 
abuse of excessive animal powers, to the possession of 
which the formation of his skull strongly testified ; but 
they assumed extraordinary brilliancy as his fury in- 
creased. He opened them wide, apparently with an effort, 
and showed the entire circle of his iris. The pupils were 
dilated, notwithstanding that the light upon his face was 
strong at the time. 

Following his example, some of the rest displayed their 
discontent in a similar fashion, but others, among whom I 

20 



STUDYING JEALOUS RAOTS 




especially noticed two youths with sad, languishing faces, 
drooping large eyes, and luxuriant grow 7 th of black hair, 
stood apathetically apart, with head reclining towards 
the right shoulder, their features perfectly composed, and 
supporting their chins on their hands. Even if they had 
overcome their stupor, 
they certainly did not 
betray it, and appeared 
perfectly motionless 

as far as their counte- 
nances were concerned. 
One fellow with an 
extraordinary head, a 
mixture it seemed of a 
Mongolian and a Ne- 
groid type, was the first 
to calm himself of those 
who were so madly ex- 
cited. With piercing 
though unsteady eyes, 
and with nervous, 
twitching movements, 

he scrutinized my face more closely than the others, and 
seemed to reassure them all that I had not come to hurt 
them. He made signs to the rest to desist from their 
threats, and then, squatting down himself, invited me to 
follow his example by sitting on my heels. When the 
storm had subsided and they had all sat down, I drew out 
of my pocket some coins and gave one to each of them, 
with the exception of one man, on whom I thought I 
might study the passion of jealousy in its most primitive 
form. I watched the man closely, and soon saw him draw 
apart from the others and become sulky. The others 
were by now comparatively calm. They seemed predis- 

21 




HEAD OF YOUNG MAN 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

posed towards sadness, and I could with difficulty extract 
from any of them more than a very faint sort of smile. 
They turned and twisted the coins in their hands, and 
compared them among one another, jabbering and ap- 
parently content. The jealous man kept his head turned 
away from them determinedly, pretending not to see what 
was going on, and, resting his chin on his hand, he be- 
gan to sing a weird, melancholy, guttural song, assum- 
ing an air of contempt, especially when the others chaffed 
him. Having allowed him to suffer enough, I gave him 
two coins instead of one, and with them the satisfaction 
of the last grin. 

I then tried to photograph them, but my camera was 
looked upon with suspicion, and as plate after plate w r as 
exposed in portraying single individuals or groups, they 
shuddered at each " click " of the spring. 

" The gods will be angry with you for doing that'' said 
a Raot, pointing at the camera, " unless you give us a 
large white coin." 

I took advantage of this, and promised them as best I 
could through my guide " two large coins " if they would 
take me to their huts, some few hundred yards below the 
lofty eyrie in the cliff, but I must for the sum be allowed 
not only to see but to touch and have explained to me 
anything I liked. 

They consented, and we began our descent of the pre- 
cipitous track leading to their habitations, a track fit 
really only for monkeys. Several women and children 
who had come up, attracted by the sight of strangers, 
joined with the men in giving us a helping hand, and, in 
fact, I believe there cannot have been a single paw in the 
company that did not at one time or other during the 
descent clutch some portion of my clothing in the friend- 
liest spirit. Holding on to one another, we proceeded in 

22 



THE HOMES OF THE RAOTS 

a body, not always at a pleasant pace, down the dangerous 
cliff. Two or three times one of the natives or myself 
tripped and almost dragged the remainder of the party 
over the precipice, while the piercing yells and screams 




TWO MEN SITTING DOWN WITH CHILDREN 



of the women seemed to echo back for miles around. I 
was not sorry when we at last reached the small huts by 
the river which made up their village. 

The habitations were squalid beyond measure. Con- 
structed with a rough frame of tree-branches, fortified by 
wooden posts and rafters, roofed over with a thatch of 
dried grass, the majority of them measured about ten feet. 
They were built against the hill -side, a strong biforked 
pole in the centre of the structure supporting the roof, 
and were usually divided into two sections, so as to give 

23 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



shelter, each of them, to two families. They contained 
no furniture, and but few utensils of the most primitive 
make. There were circular wooden bowls scooped out 
in the past by means of sharp-edged stones, and more 
recently by cheap blades, which were of Indian manu- 
facture. For such cultivation as they 
were capable of these people used prim- 
itive earth rakes, and they also possessed 
coarse mallets, sticks, and net bags in 
which they kept their stores. Their sta- 
ple food in former days was river fish, 
flesh of wild animals, and roots of certain 
trees ; but they now eat grain also, and, 
like all savages, they have a craving for 
liquor. The interior of Raot habitations 
was so primitive and lacking of furniture 
that it hardly requires to be described, 
and the odors that emanated from these 
huts are also better left to the imagina- 
tion of the reader. 

Entering one of the dwellings, I found 
squatted round a fire of wood some 
women and men, the women wearing silver bangles and 
glass-bead necklaces, the men very little more than string 
ear-rings. Only one of the men had on as much as a di- 
minutive loin-cloth, and the women had scanty dresses 
of Indian manufacture, obtained in Askote. 

Scanning their features carefully, it struck me that in 
their facial lines many points could be traced which would 
make one feel inclined to attribute to them a remote Mon- 
golian origin, modified largely by the climate, the nature 
of the country, and probably by intermarriage. In the 
scale of standard human races the Raots stood extremely 
low, as can be judged from the accompanying photographs. 

24 




A YOUNG MAN 



RAOT FEATURES 

The women, as will be seen, had abnormally small skulls 
with low foreheads, but, although they looked devoid even 
of a glint of reason, they were actually fairly intelligent. 
They had high cheek-bones and long, flattish noses, broad 
and rounded as in the Mongolian type. The chin w r as in 
most instances round, very receding, though the lips 
w r ere in their normal position, thin, and very tightly 
closed with up-turned corners to the mouth. The low- 
er jaw was extremely short and narrow, whereas the 
upper one seemed quite out of proportion to the size 
of the skull. Their ears were large, outstanding, and 
unmodelled, capable of catching sounds at great dis- 
tances. 

The men had better heads than the women, under- 
developed, yet comparatively well-balanced. They had 
higher and broader foreheads, similar though shorter 
noses, chins not quite so receding, the whole lower jaw 
extraordinarily narrow, but the upper lip, as with the 
women, huge and out of all proportion. 

Undoubtedly the Raots are not a pure race, and even 
among the few I came across variations so considerable 
occurred as to puzzle one in tracing their origin. They 
invariably possess luxuriant coal-black hair, which never 
attains more than a moderate length. It is not coarse in 
texture, but is usually so dirty that it appears coarser than 
it really is. They have very little hair on their bodies 
except in the armpits, and their mustaches and beards 
hardly deserve the name. 

The men generally part the crop on their head in the 
middle, so that it flows on either side of the skull, just 
covering the ears, and I found the same strange custom 
that I observed years ago among the Ainu of Yezo, of 
shaving a lozenge-shaped portion of the scalp in the centre 
of the forehead directly above the nose. The women, 

25 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

using their fingers as a comb, draw their hair to the back 
of the head and tie it in a knot. 

The bodies of the better specimens I saw were slight 
and agile, with no superfluous fat or flesh. Supple to a 
degree, yet solid and muscular, with well-proportioned 
limbs, and skin of a rich tinge between bronze and terra- 
cotta color, these savages, dirty and unclothed as they 
were, certainly appealed to the artistic side of my tempera- 
ment, particularly on account of their very majestic de- 
portment. I noticed their regular breathing, which they 
usually did through the nose, keeping their mouths 
tightly closed, and also one very curious peculiarity about 
their feet — viz., the length of the second toe, protruding 
considerably beyond the others, and giving them no doubt 
the power of using their toes almost as we should our 
fingers. The palms of their hands were almost without 
lines, the finger-nails flat, and their thumbs stumpy, with 
the last phalanx curiously short. 

If the Raots to-day have adopted some articles of cloth- 
ing and ornament, besides altering their diet to a certain 
extent, it is due entirely to the Rajiwar of Askote, who, 
taking a great interest in the tribes he rules over, provides 
them in a patriarchal way with all sorts of necessaries of 
life. Very few Raots have of late years visited Askote, 
as they are of a retiring nature and seem contented with 
their primitive abodes in the forests of Chipula, which 
they claim as their own. Their only occupations are fish- 
ing and hunting, and they are said to have a predilection 
for the flesh of the larger Himahlyan monkey, although 
from my own observation I should have said tnat they 
would eat almost anything they could get. It has gen- 
erally been assumed that the Raot women are kept in 
strict seclusion and hidden from strangers, and I cannot 
better prove the absurdity of this than by reproducing in 

26 



RAOT CUSTOMS AND CHARACTER 



these pages one of several photographs of the Raot 
women, for which they posed at my request without the 
slightest objection from the men. They are generally be- 
lieved to be chaste, and my photographs prove, I think, 
that whatever charm they may possess for the Raot men, 
their peculiar beauty offers but little temptation to others. 

They are rapidly diminishing in numbers, chiefly no 
doubt on account of constant intermarriage. I was as- 
sured that the women are not 
sterile, but that there is enor- 
mous mortality among the 
young children. They bury 
their dead, and for several days 
afterwards offer food and water 
to the spirit of the departed. 

I was unable to ascertain 
what their marriage cere- 
monies were like, or if they 
had any to speak of, but it ap- 
peared that there was a con- 
siderable family feeling among 
couples living maritally to- 
gether. They are supersti- 
tious, and hold in curious awe 
the spirits of the mountains, 

the sun, the moon, fire, water, and wind. Whether this 
amounts to a definite form of worship I cannot say: I 
certainly saw no signs of the offering of prayers or sacri- 
fices. 

The Raots claim to be the descendants of kings, and 
they refuse allegiance to any one. They will neither 
salute you nor bow to you. 

" It is for other people to salute us. Our blood is the 
blood of kings, and though for choice we have for cen- 

27 




RAOT WOMEN OF THE FOREST 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

turies retired to the jungle, we are none the less the sons 
of kings." That is what they professed. 

After a while, and when I had spent some considerable 
time among them, these royal savages seemed uncomfort- 
able and apprehensive. I had turned over, examined, 
drawn or photographed every household article I had 
seen, had measured every one, male and female, who con- 
sented to be measured, and paid them the stipulated 
money. As I was about to leave, the gray-haired man 
approached me again. 

" You have seen the home of the Raots. You are the 
first stranger who has done so, and you will suffer much. 
The gods are very angry with you." 

" Yes," rejoined another savage, pointing at the ravine, 
" whoever treads along that track and is not a Raot will 
be afflicted by a great calamity." 

" Kush paruani, Sahib" (Never mind, sir), interrupt- 
ed the guide, " they are only barbarians ; they know no 
better. I have myself never been here, so I suppose I 
shall also come in for my share." 

14 You, too, will suffer," said the old Raot, with self- 
assurance. 

The Raots stood round me silently as I packed up the 
camera, and I felt that they looked upon me as a man 
whose fate was settled. They did not acknowledge my 
farewell, and, had I been in the least superstitious, might 
have made me thoroughly uncomfortable with their 
solemn, stolid gravity. 



CHAPTER V 



A PILGRIM FROM MANSAROWAR LAKE — THE SPIRITS OF THE MOUN- 
TAINS — A SAFEGUARD AGAINST THEM — TIBETAN ENCAMPMENTS — 
THE RAJIWAR — A WATERFALL — WATER-MILLS 

Having returned to Askote from my excursion, I saw 
while going round the town with Jagat Sing, in a low 
stone shed by the side of 
the palace, the tall, gaunt 
figure of a man emerging 
from a cloud of smoke. 

" Who is that ?" I in- 
quired of my companion. 

" Oh, that is a fakir re- 
turning from a pilgrim- 
age to the sacred lake of 
Mansarowar in Tibet. 
Many of these fanatics 



' HP 



* 



'Wm 



^ ^? 



, -*~ * 




THE RAJIWAR OF ASKOTE, HIS 
BROTHER AND SON 



pass through here during 
the summer on their re- 
ligious journeys." 

My curiosity drew me towards the weird individual. 
He was over six feet in height, and his slim body had 
been covered with ashes, giving the dark skin a tinge of 
ghastly gray. I asked him to come out into the light. 
His masses of long hair had been plaited into small tresses 
which were wound round his head in the fashion of a 
turban — the Tatta. The hair, too, had been bleached, 
while the long, thin beard had been dyed bright red. His 
eyes were sunken, and, apparently to add to the ghastly 
4 29 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

and decidedly repulsive effect, his forehead and cheeks 
were plastered with a thick white paint. He seemed half 
stupefied, and had very little to say for himself. As can 
be seen by the illustration, he was scantily clothed, but he 
wore the Kamarjuri, or fakir's chain, round his loins, and 
he had a bead bracelet round his arm above the elbow. 




FAKIR RETURNING FROM MANSAROWAR 



His waist was encircled with a belt of wooden beads, and ? 
necklace of plaited hair ornamented his neck. He spent 
his days rolling himself in ashes and enduring self-imposed 
bodily privations, with a view, to attain a state of sanctifi- 
cation. 

Rumors had reached me of some curious superstitions 
prevalent among these mountain folk. 

" Tell me," I said to Jagat Sing, "are there 'spirits of 
the mountains' in these ranges? And do the people 
really believe in them?" 

3o 



SPIRITS AND CHARMS 

"Yes, sir," replied the young fellow, " there certainly 
are a number of them, and they are often very trouble- 
some, especially to certain people. They are seldom 
known, however, to kill any one." 

" Then they are not quite so bad as some human 
beings," I replied. 

" Well, sir, they are very bad. They seize sleeping 
people by the throat with claws like iron, sitting on the 
chests of their victims." 

" Does not that sound more like an attack of indiges- 
tion ?" 

" No, sir. The ghosts of the mountains are the spirits 
of people that have not gone to heaven. They are to be 
found in swarms at night in the forest. The people are 
terrified of them. They haunt the mountain tops and 
slopes, and they can assume the semblance of a cat, a 
mouse, or any other animal ; in fact, they are said to fre- 
quently change their appearance. Where no man can 
tread, among rocks and precipices, or in the thick jungle, 
the spirits seek their retreat, but often they abandon 
their haunts to seek for men. The person who becomes 
possessed generally remains in a semiconscious condi- 
tion and ejaculates mad cries and unintelligible words. 
There are men who profess to know charms to drive 
the spirits out. Remedies for that purpose are common- 
ly used by the natives with more or less success. A 
grass called Bichna (nettles) has the faculty of frighten- 
ing the spirits away when applied on the body of the 
sufferer, but the most effective remedy is to make pre- 
tence to beat with a red-hot iron the person possessed. 
The spirits seem to fear that more than anything else." 

" Do the spirits ever speak?" I inquired, interested in 
the curious superstitions of these hill men. 

" No, sir, not often, nor usually directly, but they do it 

3i 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

through people who are possessed by them. It is they 
who tell many strange tales of the spirits. One curious 
point about them is that they only seize people who are 
afraid of them. If defied they vanish." 

" Do the natives adopt any special method to protect 
themselves from these mountain demons?" 

" Fire is the only sure protection. Any one sleeping 
near a fire is safe, and as long as there is a flame blazing 
the spirits keep away." 

" Do you know any one who has seen them ?" 

" Yes. A chaprassi called Joga tells of having been 
compelled to travel at night through a forest; he heard 
a voice calling him by name. Terrified, he stopped, and 
for some moments his voice failed him. At last, trem- 
bling all over, he replied, and instantly a swarm of 
spirits appeared and challenged him to do them harm. 
Joga ran for his life, and the demons vanished. Spirits 
have been known to throw stones at passers-by." 

" Have you ever seen a spirit, Jagat Sing?" 

" Only once. I was returning to the palace late in the 
evening when up the steep road I perceived a woman's 
figure. It was a beautiful moonlight night. I walked 
up, and as I passed the face of the strange being ap- 
peared black, inhuman, and ghastly. I staggered when I 
saw the weird apparition approach, my blood ran cold 
with fear. I struck a mighty blow with my stick, but, 
behold! the cane whirled through the air and hit noth- 
ing. Instantly the ghost vanished." 

" I wish, Jagat Sing, that you could show me some of 
these spirits ; I would give anything to make a sketch of 
them." 

" You cannot always see them when you want, sir, but 
they are always to be avoided. They are evil spirits, and 
can only do harm." 

32 



TIBETAN ENCAMPMENTS 

Leaving Askote (4600 feet) by the winding road 
through a dense forest, I crossed by a suspension-bridge 
the Gori River at Gargia (2450 feet). The track was 
along the low and unpleasantly hot valley of the Kali 
River, a raging stream flowing with indescribable rapidi- 
ty in the opposite direction to that in which I was travel- 
ling. It formed the boundary-line between Nepal and 
Kumaon. Huts and patches of cultivation were to be 
seen on the Nepalese side, whereas on our side we came 
upon deserted and roofless winter dwellings of Shokas 
(usually but not correctly called Botiyas) and Tibetans, 
who migrate to these warmer regions to graze their 
sheep during the colder months of the year. The Sho- 
ka summer residences are at greater elevations, mostly 
along the highways to Tibet and nearer the Tibetan 
boundary. On arriving at the Kutzia Daramsalla a mes- 
senger brought me the news that the Rajiwar, whom I 
had missed seeing at Askote, was now here for the pur- 
pose of making offerings to certain deities. He would 
call upon me at 3 p.m.; so, having some time to spare, I 
went to bathe in the deliciously cold though, as I found, 
dangerously rapid stream. Swimming was out of the 
question, and even an immersion bath was attended with 
a certain amount of risk. The current caused me to lose 
my footing, and I soon found myself washed with great 
force against some rocks thirty or forty yards down 
stream. I came out of the water mimis a few patches 
of skin on my knees and shins, and while drying myself 
in the sun received a deputation of the Patan (head vil- 
lage man) and other natives, conveying with their most 
respectful salaams gifts of milk, kielas (bananas), kakri 
(gigantic cucumbers), and nuts. These hill fellows im- 
pressed me as being of a far superior standard to the 
Hindoos of the plains. They were lightly yet strongly 

33 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

built, and showed evidence of both character and dig- 
nity. With their fair complexion and luxuriant black 
hair and mustache they resembled Spaniards or Southern 
Italians. They lacked entirely the affected manner and 
falseness of speech and demeanor so common among the 
natives who are constantly in contact with Europeans. 

Below the Daramsalla, near the water-side, was a large 
Tibetan encampment of some twenty or thirty tents 
which had all originally been white, but were now black 
with smoke. In these were men, women, and children, 
with all their paraphernalia ; and the first thing that at- 
tracted my eye in each tent was the quantity of shiny 
brass bowls strewn upon the ground, the entire energy of 
the tent-owners seemingly being spent in keeping these 
utensils clean and bright, to the utter neglect of their 
other property. Walls of sheep-loads were erected either 
inside the tent or directly outside, covered in the latter 
case with cloths in order to protect them from the rain. 

Punctually at 3 p.m. the Rajiwar arrived, carried in a 
dandy, and followed by his brother, who sat in a mountain 
dandy. The Rajiwar's son and heir rode a splendid gray 
pony. I went to assist the old Rajiwar to alight, as for 
some years he had been paralyzed. We shook hands 
heartily, and I led him into the Daramsalla (2875 feet), 
where in default of furniture we all sat on packing-cases. 
His refined, well-cut features, his attractive manner, and 
the soft, dignified voice in which he spoke clearly indi- 
cated a man of superior blood and uncommon ability. 
His modesty and simplicity were delightful. 

" I hope that your health is good and that you have 
not suffered too much on your journey. I was grieved 
not to be in Askote to receive you. Are your dear par- 
ents alive ? Have you any brothers and sisters ? Are 
you married? I should much like to visit England. It 

34 



VISIT OF THE RAJIWAR OF ASKOTE 

must be a wonderful country, and so much do I admire 
it that I have given my nephews a British education, 
and one of them is now serving the Maharanee (Queen) 
Victoria as Political Peshkar.' 5 

I answered his questions as best I could with the aid 
of a Hindustani dictionary, expressive gestures, and quick 




THE RAJIWAR AND HIS BROTHER IN DANDIES 

sketches. He spoke of many of our latest inventions 
with marked interest and intelligence. 

He seemed greatly struck with my scientific instru- 
ments, but he and his people were more particularly at- 
tracted by my rifles, revolvers, and other weapons, es- 
pecially the .256 Mannlicher, sighted to 1000 yards. 

The Rajiw 7 ar pressed me to return with him to Askote, 
where he offered to give me tiger, bear, and leopard 
shooting. Tempting as the invitation was, I could not 
accept it, for my plans would lead me in the opposite di- 
rection. His visit lasted for more than three hours, and 
I was pleased to feel that we parted great friends. 

On the road to Dharchula, along the low-lying valley, 
the heat was unbearable, although the sun was near the 

35 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

horizon. We came' upon a waterfall falling from a great 
height over a series of umbrella-like stalactites covered 
with moss. The last rays of the sun shone on the drop- 
ping water, brilliant and sparkling as a shower of dia- 
monds. Several small rainbows added to the beauty of 
the scene. I rested some time in this cool and beautiful 
retreat. There were birds singing and monkeys playing 
among the trees. Farther on, where the river bends, 
there are two large caves hollowed in the rock ; the 
smoke -blackened ceilings prove that these are used as 
camping - grounds by travelling Shokas and Hunyas 
(Tibetans). Large black -faced, white -bearded monkeys 
swarmed everywhere, frankly and gladly mischievous. 
They throw or roll stones down upon the passers - by, 
often causing accidents, the track being rather narrow 
and sheer above the river. 

Previous to arriving at the spot where the Tsuagar 
flows into the Kali River one meets with many Tibetan, 
Humli, and Rongba encampments. 

I camped at Kalika (3205 feet) by the side of a gigan- 
tic tree with boughs spreading well over the road, the 
chaprassis and men erecting a comfortable chopper of 
mats, foliage, and branches. 

I was anxious to get through the hot valley with the 
greatest possible speed, so, notwithstanding that we had 
halted very late at night, I roused my men at 3 a.m. and 
agjain set forth on the march. Here and there alone the 
road we passed deserted winter dwellings of Shokas, 
nearly all with broken thatched roofs. Some, however, 
were roofed with slate, the distinctive mark of residence 
of the Darma Shokas. 

The primitive Shoka water-mills were curious. By a 
very ingenious contrivance the water of a stream pro- 
pelled a heavy cylindrical stone revolving on the top of 

36 



THE VILLAGE OF DHARCHULA 

another. The grain fell slowly from a magazine above 
into a hole pierced in the centre of the upper wheel, and, 
finding its way through a channel between the two cylin- 
ders, was ground into fine flour. 

Dharchula (3550 feet), the largest Shoka winter settle- 
ment, is situated on a fine stretch of flat land some hun- 
dred feet above the river ; the village consists of twelve 
long rows of roofless houses very similar in size and 
shape. Four larger buildings at the extreme limit of the 
settlement attract notice. One of these is a Daramsalla. 
The others, two high stone buildings, are a school, hos- 
pital, and dispensary belonging to the Methodist Episco- 
pal Mission, and under the careful supervision of Miss 
Sheldon, M.D., Miss Brown, and that wonderful pioneer, 
Dr. H. Wilson. A bungalow of the same mission is 
built higher up on the hill-side. 

Between the two spots where from Nepal the Lachu 
and the Shakta join the Kali was Dubart (3700 feet), 
and from thence one gradually rose to 4120 feet at the 
Relegar River, also a tributary of the larger stream. 
Having crossed the Rankuti River, I ascended still 
higher by zigzag walking, slowly leaving behind me range 
after range of mountains beyond the valley of the river; 
while on the Nepal side, beyond the three nearer ranges, 
snow peaks of great height and beauty stood out against 
the sky-line. The highest point on the road was 5450 
feet, after which we descended to 5275 feet at the Khela 
Daramsalla, which we did not reach till late at night. 

Near Khela, on the top of a high mountain, stood a tall 
quadrangular rock not unlike a tower. The natives say 
that a mere touch causes it to shake and revolve, but 
this belief is not general, for others deny that it ever 
moves. I could not spare the time to go and obtain the 
facts, nor could I obtain reliable information from any 

37 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

one who had had actual experience. So far as I could 
see with the aid of my telescope, the rock seemed to be 
standing firmly on a very solid base. To my regret, also, 
I was unable to visit the curious hot sulphur springs on 
the Darma Ganga, and the strange cave in which much 
animal life is lost owing to the noxious gases rising from 
the ground. 






CHAPTER VI 

HIGHWAYS AND TRADE ROUTES — THE DARMA ROUTE — THE DHOLI 
RIVER— A ROUGH TRACK CONNECTING TWO VALLEYS —GLACIERS- 
THREE RANGES AND THEIR PEAKS — ALTITUDES— DARMA, JOHAR, AND 
THE PAINKHANDA PARGANAS — THE HIGHEST PEAK IN THE BRITISH 
EMPIRE— NATURAL BOUNDARIES 

There are two principal highways from Khela to 
Hundes — one by the valley of the Dholi or Darma River, 
the other along the Kali River and over the Lippu 
Pass. 

The trade route via Darma is less frequented than the 
one by the Lippu, but it is nevertheless of considerable 
importance, inasmuch as a certain portion of the trade 
of Southwest Tibet with India is carried on through the 
medium of the Darma Shokas. It consists mainly of 
borax, salt, wool, skins, cloth, and utensils, in exchange 
for which the Tibetans take silver, wheat, rice, satoo, 
ghur, lump candied sugar, pepper, beads of all kinds, and 
articles of Indian manufacture. For' a mountain track, 
and considering the altitudes to which it rises, the 
Darma way is comparatively good and safe, notwith- 
standing that in following upward the course of the 
Dholi River the narrow path in many places overhangs 
deep ravines and precipices. There are many Shoka vil- 
lages and settlements on the banks of the stream, the 
most important ones being the Nyu, Sobala, Sela, Nag- 
■k ling (9520 feet), Bahling (10,230 feet), Sona and Tuktung 
(10,630 feet), Dansu and Yansu, where there is a bridge. 
On the northeast bank is Goa, facing Dakar, and farther 

39 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

up, at an elevation of 10,400 feet, the Lissar, a rapid 
tributary with muddy water. 

The Dholi rises from a series of comparatively small 
glaciers northeast of a range forming a branch of 
the higher Himahlyan chain, and extending in a south- 
easterly direction as far as the point where the two 





DARMA SHOKAS AND TIBETANS 



streams meet. It receives, on its precipitous descent, 
many small snow -fed tributaries, those from the Katz 
snow-fields and the Nui glacier being the most important. 
Its way lies in a tortuous channel amid rocks and ra- 
vines, first tending towards the southeast, then due south, 
and last southwest down to the point where it is joined 

.40 



GLACIERS 

by the Lissar, coming from the northwest along a line 
almost parallel on the opposite watershed of the range. 

Tyang, Sipu (11,400 feet), and Marcha (10,890 feet), 
are the three most important Shoka villages on the 
Lissar. 

From Marcha there is a track connecting the valleys 
of the Lissar and Gori. You ascend the high mountain 
range west of the Lissar by skirting the northern edge 
of the Nipchung Kang glacier and keeping south of the 
Kharsa glacier, and, on a route that is unpopular on ac- 
count of its constant difficulties and perils, you pass, as 
you descend in a westerly direction, the Tertcha glacier. 
South of the Shun Kalpa glacier you reach first Ralem 
and then Sumdu, which is situated on a tributary of the 
Gori River, itself a tributary of the Kali. The rugged, 
barren chain of mountains separating the Gori from the 
Lissar extends in a general direction from south-south- 
east to north-northeast up to the Ralfo glacier, and there 
turns in a curve northwest among a succession of perpet- 
ual snow-fields and glaciers. The glaciers to the north- 
east and east of the range outnumber those on the west, 
but there is one of importance called in its different sec- 
tions the Kala Baland, the Shun Kalpa, and the Tertcha. 
There arepaiong~The fifteen most northerly miles of the 
range, south of the point where it joins the Himahlyan 
chain, other glaciers of considerable size and importance, 
but I was not able to ascertain their names, excepting 
that of the Lissar seva, the most northern of all, forming 
the source of the Lissar. The inter-Lissar-Gori range is 
of considerable geographical importance, not only because 
it forms the boundary between the two parts of Bhot 
called Darma and Johar, but also because of the magnifi- 
cent peaks reaching in the Bambadhura, an elevation of 
20,760 feet, and in a higher unnamed peak, southeast of 

41 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

it, 21,470 feet. There are also the two Kharsa peaks, 
the one northwest of the glacier bearing its name being 
19,650 feet, the one southwest of it slightly over 20,900 
feet, and south-southwest one peak 21,360 feet, another 
21,520 feet, and farther still, north of the Telkot glacier, 
the highest of all, 22,660 feet. In a southeast direction 
there are peaks 20,700 feet, 20,783 feet, and 21,114 feet 
high. At the point where the ridge turns south the ele- 
vations become lower, the two highest being 19,923 feet 
and 19,814 feet, the latter being situated at the point 
where a smaller range branches off to the southeast, the 
principal range running south for the next eleven or 
twelve miles, with no very remarkable elevations. In the 
side range there are peaks of 18,280 feet, 17,062 feet, 
14,960 feet, respectively. 

In latitude 29° 59' 10" N. and longitude 8o° 31' 45" 
E. the range again separates into two secondary ridges, 
one extending southeast, the other southwest, and in turn 
both these are again subdivided into minor hill ridges, 
along which no summits are found surpassing 13,000 feet, 
except the Basili, 13,244 feet. 

The Bungadhura Mountain (9037 feet), in close prox- 
imity to Khela, terminates the southeasterly division of 
the range, separating the Pargana of Darma from that of 
Askote. The actual boundary -line, however, does not 
follow the higher mountain range as far as the Kali River, 
but swerves to the south along the ridge overlooking the 
valley of the River Relegar. These mountains are called 
the Mangthil. 

There is, west of the above ridge, a second and even 
more important chain, running out parallel to it from the 
backbone of the Himahlyan great mountain system. This 
second ridge contains the highest mountain in the British 
Empire, Nanda Devi (25,660 feet), with its second peak 

42 



MOUNTAIN PASSES 

(24,380 feet), also Trisul (23,406 feet), East Trisul (22,360 
feet), and Nanda Kot (22,530 feet). This range and its 
ramifications divide the valleys of the Gori River (the 
Pargana of Johar)from the most western portion of Bhot, 
the Painkhanda Pargana. 

The well-known Milam and Pindari glaciers are one 
on the eastern, the other on the southwestern side of 
this range. The Milam highway to Tibet, frequented by 
the Johari traders, traverses over the Kungribingri Pass 
(18,300 feet), and the Uttadhura (17,590 feet), directly 
south-southwest of it, into Hundes. 

The Pargana Painkhanda, a region equally Alpine, 
similarly covered with vast stretches of perpetual snow 
and extensive glaciers, is in the northeast corner of Gar- 
whal, bordering on Tibet, and along the Dhauli River ; 
intersecting it, another trade route finds its way into 
Western Tibet by the Niti Pass. Leaving the course of 
the Dhauli at Jelam (10,100 feet), this track proceeds al- 
most due east, rising to an altitude of 16,600 feet on the 
Niti, in latitude 30° 57' 59" N. and longitue 79° 55' 3" E., 
which is, from all accounts, a very easy pass, and quite 
free from snow during the summer months. The peo- 
ple of the Painkhanda Pargana use this pass as well as 
the other passes of Malla Shilanch and Tumzun, besides 
the Shorhoti, visited by H. R. Strachey some years ago, 
over which, however, only a small portion of the trade 
with Hundes is carried, for it is considered the most dan- 
gerous of the three. The cold and turbid waters of the 
Dhauli, swollen by dozens of equally foaming and mud- 
dy tributaries, become ultimately the sacred waters of 
the Ganges. 

The three Alpine Parganas — viz., the Painkhanda, johar, 
and Darma (Darma, Chaudas, and Bias) — are inhabited 
by races closely allied and akin to those of Tibet proper. 

43 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

The region is collectively named Bhot, although that des- 
ignation is more particularly applied by the natives of 
India to that portion of the country which includes 
Darma, Bias, and Chaudas, and which has for natural 
boundaries the Kali River to the southeast, separating it 
from Nepal and the great Himahlyan chain to the north- 
east, extending from the Lissar Peak in a general direc- 
tion of about 1 1 5 . 

A ramification leaving the main range at the Darma 
Pass stretches across from north - northwest to south- 
southeast separating the above-mentioned Darma Ganga 
from the Kuti River, along which I eventually travelled 
on my way to Tibet. The main elevations found on 
this ridge are 18,510 feet on the Darma Pass; northeast 
of the Rama glacier a peak 20,760 feet; the Gurma 
Mountain, 20,320 feet; and others south of them as high 
as 20,380 feet, 20,330 feet, 20,260 feet. East of the lat- 
ter summit is one 20,455 ^ eet - 

44 



CHAPTER VII 

THE WORD BROT AND ITS MEANING — TIBETAN INFLUENCE — TIBETAN 
ABUSES — THE EVER-HELPFUL CHANDEN SING— THE FIRST SHOKA 
VILLAGE— CHANDEN SING IN DISGRACE—WEAVING-LOOM — FABRICS— 
ALL'S WELL THAT ENDS WELL 

The name Bhot — pronounced Bod, Pote, Tupot, or 
Taipot — by which this inter-Alpine region is called, means 
Tibet. In fact, Tibet is probably merely a corruption of 
Tupot. These lofty " pattis " of Darma, Bias, and Chau- 
das nominally form part of the British Empire, our geo- 
graphical boundary with Nari Khorsum or Hundes (Great 
Tibet) being the main Himahlyan chain forming the 
water-shed between the two countries. In spite of this 
actual territorial right, I found at the time of my visit in 
1897 that it was impossible not to agree with the natives 
in asserting that British prestige and protection in those 
regions were mere myths ; that Tibetan influence alone 
was dominant and prevailing, and Tibetan law enforced 
and feared. The natives invariably showed abject obse- 
quiousness and servile submission to Tibetans, being at 
the same time compelled to display actual disrespect to 
British officials. They were driven to bring the greater 
number of civil and criminal cases before Tibetan magis- 
trates in preference to having them tried in a British court. 

The Tibetans, in fact, openly claimed possession of the 
"pattis" bordering on Nari Khorsum; and the more ob- 
viously to impress our natives with their influence as su- 
perior to British, they came over to hibernate on our side, 
and made themselves quite at home in the warmer valleys 
5 45 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

» 

and in the larger bazaars. They brought their families 
with them, and drove before them thousands and thou- 
sands of sheep to graze on our pasture-lands; they gradu- 
ally destroyed our forests in Bias to supply Southwestern 
Tibet with fuel for the summer months. For this they 
not only paid nothing, but our native subjects had to con- 
vey the timber over the high passes without remuneration. 
Necessarily such unprincipled task-masters did not draw 
the line at extorting from our natives, under any pretence, 
money, food, clothes, and everything else they could pos- 
sibly levy. Some were known to travel yearly as far south 
as Lucknow, Calcutta, and Bombay. 

So much for the gentleness of the Tibetans — a hermit 
nation living in a closed country ! 

Chanden Sing, ever anxious to be polite and helpful, 
would not hear of my carrying my own sketch and note 
books, as had always been my custom, but insisted on do- 
ing so himself. 

" Hum pagal nek T (I am no fool!) said he, with an 
expression of wounded feelings. " I will take great care 
of them." 

We started up the steep road, having first descended to 
the level of the River Dholi, 800 feet lower than Khela, 
crossing by a wooden bridge. The zigzag up the moun- 
tain-side seemed endless. Here and there a cool spring 
of crystal water quenched our thirst, welcome indeed on 
that tedious ascent in the broiling sun. Six miles above 
Khela we had risen to 7120 feet, and from this point the 
incline became less trying. Still we rose to 7450 feet two 
miles farther on, where, under the shade of some magnifi- 
cent old trees at Pungo, I halted for lunch. We had en- 
tered the first inhabited village of the Shokas, usually but 
erroneously called Botiyas, and were now in that part of 
their country called Chaudas. 

46 



DISGRACE OF CHANDEN SING 

A pleasant surprise awaited me. A smart-looking lad 
in European clothes came boldly forward, and, stretching 
out his hand, shook mine for some considerable time in a 
jovial and friendly fashion. 

" I am a Christian," said he. 

" I should say that you were by the way you shake 
hands." 

" Yes, sir," he proceeded. " I have prepared for you 
some milk, some chapatis (native bread), and some nuts. 
Please accept them." 

" Thank you," I said. " You do not seem to be a bad 
Christian. What is your name ?" 

" Master G. B. Walter, sir. I teach in the school." 

A crowd of Shokas had collected. Their first shyness 
having worn off, they proved to be polite and kind. The 
naive nature and graceful manner of the Shoka girls struck 
me particularly on this my first introduction to them. 
Much less shy than the men, they came forward and 
joked and laughed as if they had known me all their lives. 
I wished to sketch two or three of the more attractive. 

"Where is my book, Chanden Sing?" I inquired of my 
bearer. 

" Hazur hum medium neh, Sahib" (I do not know, 
sir), was his melancholy answer as he searched his empty 
pockets. 

" Ah ! you villain ! Is that the care you take of my 
notes and sketches ? What have you done with them ?" 

" Oh, sahib, I drank some water at the Dholi River. I 
had the book then in my hand. I must have left it on a 
stone when I stooped to drink water from the stream," 
the wretched man explained. 

It is hardly necessary to say that Chanden Sing was 
promptly despatched to the spot he had named, with strict 
orders not to appear before me again without the book. 

47 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

I spent two or three pleasant hours in having the primi- 
tive Shoka weaving-looms, the processes of spinning and 
cloth manufacture, explained to me. As can be seen 
from the following illustration, the weaving-looms of the 
Shokas are in every way similar to those used by the 
Tibetans proper, and are quite simple in construction. 




SHOKA WEAVERS 



The warp is kept at great tension, and the cloth-beam on 
which the woven tissue is rolled rests on the woman's lap 
during the process of weaving. There are no treadles in 
the Shoka loom, by which the two sets of warp threads are 
alternately raised or depressed between each time that the 
transverse thread is passed, and all work is done by hand. 
The transverse thread is beaten firmly home by means of 
a heavy prismatic piece of wood. The material used in 
weaving is yak, or sheep's wool, either in its natural color 
or dyed in the primary colors of red and blue and yellow, 

48 



WEAVING OF THE SHOKAS 

and one secondary only, green. Blue and red are used in 
the greater and equal proportion ; then green. Yellow is 
very parsimoniously used. The thread is well twisted 
and is subjected to no preparation before spinning, leav- 
ing thus a certain greasiness in the closely woven material 
that renders it waterproof. 

Shoka women are adept at this ancient art : they 
use several sets of spools, and patiently sit out-of-doors 
day after day weaving most intricate and artistic pat- 
terns. These colored tissues, if we except the simpler 
ones with blue ground and lines for women's garments, 
are usually very narrow (about seven inches in width), 
whereas the less elaborate ones, such as the white material 
of which men's clothes are made, average sixteen inches. 

The patterns in these many -colored materials are 
woven from memory, and do not contain curves or circles, 
but are entirely composed of lines and angles, combina- 
tions of small lozenges and squares separated by long 
tri-color parallel lines, forming, so far as weaving is con- 
cerned, the main Shoka ideas of decoration and ornament. 
The fabrics are extraordinary strong. The narrow col- 
ored cloth of better quality is used mostly for making 
bags in which money and food are carried ; the coarser 
kind for the double sheep-loads. 

The more talented of the Shoka young women show 
much ingenuity in carpet, or rather rug, making. They 
have copied the idea from old Chinese rugs which have 
found their way there via Lhassa, and though upon close 
examination it is true they differ considerably in quality 
and manufacture, they are pleasing enough to the eye. 
These rugs are woven upon coarse thread matting, the 
colored material being let in vertically. A soft surface 
is obtained, not unlike in general appearance to that of 
Persian carpets, but not quite so pleasant to the touch. 

49 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

These small rectangular rugs are offered in the houses of 
Shoka gentlemen to guests to sit on, and are also used to 
render the Tibetan saddles less uncomfortable. 

As time went on I became very anxious as to the miss- 
ing book, for it contained all my notes of the journey. 
The thought of its being deposited on a rock washed by 
a rapid stream, into which it might easily slip and be car- 
ried away, kept me in a state of suspense. At last a stag- 
gering figure approached ; it was Chanden Sing, waving 
the book triumphantly in the air. He had run the dis- 
tance of many miles down to the river and back so quick- 
ly that when he reached me he was utterly exhausted. 
He handed me the book, and once more we started, fol- 
lowed by Walter and the whole community, down the 
steep incline to the river. At this place some of the 
Shokas seized my hands and placed them on their fore- 
heads, at the same time making deep bows. Others em- 
braced my feet, while the women folks bade me the usual 
Hindustani "Acka giao /" (Go well!). 

After some time had been wasted, or at least spent, in 
receiving these odd salutations, I persuaded them to re- 
trace their steps, and they left me. 

5o 



CHAPTER VIII 



PRAYER BY WIND - POWER — PHOTOGRAPHY UNDER DIFFICULTIES — A 
NIGHT OF MISERY — DRYING UP — TWO LADY MISSIONARIES — THEIR 
VALUABLE WORK — AN INTERESTING DINNER-PARTY — AN " ECCENTRIC " 
MAN'S TEA-PARTY 

To reach Shosha I had to climb a further three miles, 
which proved almost as steep as the previous ascent to 
Pungo. 

A curious 
custom of pray- 
i ng by wind- 
power, probably 
borrowed from 
the Tibetans, pre- 
vails among the 
Shokas. The 
Tibetans, with a 
more intense re- 
ligion than the 
Shokas, use for 
this purpose not 
only the wind 

but even water to propel their praying-machines. Let 
me explain these simple mechanical contrivances for 
prayers. One or more rags or pieces of cloth, usually 
white, but on occasions red or blue, are fastened and 
hung by one end to a string stretched across a road, a pass, 
or a path. On crossing a pass for the first time Shokas 
invariably cut a strip of cloth and place it so that it will 

5i 




SHRINE AND FLYING PRAYERS 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

flap in the breeze. Also when materials for a new dress 
are purchased or manufactured, it is customary for them 
to tear off a narrow strip of the stuff and make a flying 
prayer of it. As long as there is motion in it there is 
prayer, so that the natives tie them very fast to sticks, 
poles, or branches of trees ; and certain shrubs and trees 
in weird, romantic spots on the mountains are covered 
with these religious signs. Moreover, on the top of near- 
ly every Shoka dwelling a vast number of similar little 
flags can be seen, as well as near their shrines and at the 
outer gates of a village. 

I put up at the Titela Daramsalla, one mile above Shosha 
village. The weather had been threatening for several 
days, and a steady downpour came upon us during the 
evening. Work had been accumulating daily. I decided 
to develop the large number of plates I had taken on my 
journey, a job hateful beyond measure when you are on 
the move. Having duly unpacked all the developing- 
dishes and prepared the different solutions, I set to work 
to make the shelter completely dark. The next impor- 
tant item required was water, and of this there was plenty 
in that wretched shanty. I had just developed half a 
dozen negatives, and was delighted at the excellent re- 
sults, when, in consequence of the storm having grown 
more violent, the rain began dripping on my head through 
the leaky roof of the Daramsalla. To move all the trays 
of developers, baths, and fixing solution would have been 
a nuisance; besides, I was too interested in my work to be 
put out by such small trifles, so I patiently stood this new 
discomfort. I shifted my position continually, merely 
with the result that the rain dripped alternately on my 
back, my legs, or my shoulders, according to my position. 
It fell in torrents, and the roof over me w T as so leaky that 
I might as well have been out in the open. I was sitting 

52 



X 

io 

r 

c 




I 



A NIGHT OF MISERY 

in a pool of water, and could not lay my hands upon any- 
thing that was not drenched. Fortunately my boxes and 
cases were water-tight, or all the instruments and plates 
would have been damaged. 

Annoying as it was, I had to give up work. The best 
thing to do was to go to sleep. Easier said than done. 
My bedding and blanket were soaked. The attempts to 
lie under a waterproof sheet failed, for I felt suffocated, 
so I passed the cover to my servant, who, rolling himself 
in it, was soon in the arms of Morpheus. Tired and dis- 
gusted, I crouched myself up and eventually fell asleep. 
I woke up in the morning with a biting pain in my toes. 
I had been lying face downward, and had involuntarily 
stretched my legs during the night. I discovered to my 
horror that one foot rested in the developing-bath and 
the other in the fixing solution, which I had forgotten to 
empty out of the large celluloid trays. 

The morning was spent in drying up things in the sun, 
including our clothes, while we, clad in a doti (large 
loin-cloth used by the natives of India), squatted down 
in the warmth in order to restore our saturated skins to 
their natural condition. 

I was in the mean time interviewed by many Shokas, 
applying for medicines and wishing to sell their native 
wares. 

A pretty girl, from whom I bought a curious set of neck 
hangings made of musk-deer teeth, wished to be cured of 
the goitre, a complaint too common, alas ! on these hills. 
Then a child was brought with a nasty tumor in a 
state of suppuration inside his left ear. Others w T ished 
to be cured of pains in the stomach and liver, which 
are very general among them, owing to their abuse of 
liquor. 

Upon hearing that two lady missionaries lived a mile 

. 53 




IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

and a half farther on, at Sirka, I gave myself the pleasure 
of calling upon them. They possessed a nice bungalow 
at an elevation of 8900 feet above sea-level, by the side of 
which was another structure for the accommodation of 
converts and servants. Lower on the hill-side they had 
built a dispensary and hospital 

I was received with the utmost courtesy by Miss Shel- 
don, M.D., and Miss Brown, of the Methodist Episcopal 

Mission. I have in my lifetime 
met with many missionaries of all 
creeds in nearly every part of the 
globe, but never has it been my 
luck before to meet two such 
charming, open-minded, and really 
hard-working ladies as the two 
who now so kindly received me. 

"Come right in, Mr. Landor," 
said Miss Sheldon, with her de- 
lightful American accent, and she 
shook hands with me in a good, 
wrinkled shoka hearty fashion. 

The natives had praised to me 
the charity and helpfulness of this lady. I found this 
more than justified. By night or day she would never re- 
fuse help to the sick, and her deeds of kindness which 
became known to me are far too numerous to detail in 
these pages. Perhaps her most valuable quality is her 
perfect tact — a quality I have found none too common 
among missionaries. Her patience, her kindly manner 
towards the Shokas, her good heart, the wonderful cures 
she wrought among the sick, were items of which these 
honest mountaineers had everlasting praises to sing. A 
Shoka was telling me that it was not an uncommon thing 
for Miss Sheldon to give away all her own food supplies, 

54 



WORTHY MISSIONARIES 

and even the clothes from her back — courting for her- 
self discomfort, yet happy in her good work. 

With it was combined a charming modesty. No word 
about herself or her actions ever passed her lips. A 
pioneer in these parts, she evidently must have encoun- 
tered much difficulty in the beginning. At present her 
good influence over the Shokas is very considerable. 




LAL SING TOKUDAR AND HIS BROTHER 



The same can be said of Miss Brown, who was in every 
way a worthy comrade of Miss Sheldon. 

They have both, in a comparatively short time, become 
fully acquainted with the Shoka language, and can con- 
verse in it as fluently as in English, this fact alone en- 
dearing them greatly to the natives. 

They were kind enough to ask me to dinner. " It is 
Sunday," said Miss Sheldon, "and we shall have all our 
Christians dining with us. You will not mind, I am sure." 

I assured her that nothing would interest me more. 

I arrived punctually at the hour appointed, and on the 
veranda of the bungalow were laid some nice clean mats, 
upon which we all sat cross-legged in native fashion. We 

55 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

three Europeans were provided with knife and fork, but 
all the natives helped themselves with their fingers, which 
they used with much dexterity. There were among the 
converts some Hindoos, some Shokas, some Humlis, and 
a Tibetan woman. All counted, I suppose there were 
about twenty, and it would be impossible to find a better- 
behaved set of Christians anywhere. They ate heartily, 
and only spoke when they were spoken to. 

" I doubt whether I have ever dined with so many good 
Christians," said I, jokingly, to Miss Sheldon. " It is de- 
lightful." 

" They would much like to hear some of the experiences 
of your travels, if you would be kind enough to tell them. 
That is to say, if you are not too tired and do not 
mind." 

Interpreted by Miss Brown, I related some of my ad- 
ventures in the country of the Ainu. Rarely have I had 
such an interested audience. When the story ended they 
all salaamed me, and an old veteran Gourkha, one of the 
converts, took my hand and shook it warmly. 

"You must not mind, Mr. Landor; you see, we treat 
our Christians like ourselves," # quickly interrupted Miss 
Sheldon. 

" Oh no, I do not mind," I replied. " On the contrary, I 
am glad to see it done." 

I took my leave and asked the ladies to come to tea 
with me the next day. The afternoon came and they 
arrived, when, to my horror, it flashed across my mind 
that I had neither cups nor saucers nor spoons. I had 
some tea, but I had no idea in which box it was, and, to 
save my life, I could not lay my hands upon it. This 



* N.B. — Anglo-Indians very rarely condescend to shake hands with the 
natives. 

56 



HOW TO GIVE A TEA-PARTY 

caused a frank and delightful remark on the part of Miss 
Sheldon to Miss Brown. 

" Does not Mr. Landor remind you of 'that other' ec- 
centric gentleman that came through here last year?" 

The moment she had uttered the words Miss Sheldon 
saw what she had said, and we all laughed heartily. 

" You know, Mr. Landor," put in Miss Brown, "we half 
foresaw that you would not be provided with these articles 
of luxury, and we brought our own cups and saucers." 

The news was a great relief to me. 

" Well, now, let me persuade you to take some delicious 
chocolate instead of tea." 

" Very good, we would prefer it. We have not had 
chocolate for a long time." 

A solid block of chocolate was produced weighing 
twenty-eight pounds, and Chanden Sing set to work to 
chip off bits with a stone — a primitive but effective meth- 
od. In the mean time the kettle was boiling, while my 
two visitors made themselves as comfortable as was pos- 
sible under the circumstances on pack-saddle cases. 

The tea-party went off well, for the ladies, evidently sus- 
pecting the "eccentricity" of their host, had come pro- 
vided not only with cups and saucers, but with spoons, 
cake, bread, butter, and biscuits ! 

57 



CHAPTER IX 

DISCOURAGING REPORTS — A STEEP ASCENT — HOW I CAME TO DESERVE 
THE NAME OF " MONKEY " — HARD AT WORK — PROMOTED IN RANK- 
COLLAPSE IN A GALE OF WIND — TIME AND LABOR LOST 

The weather again became rainy and cold. The re- 
ports that I received of the state of the roads farther up 
were not encouraging. 

" The track is impassable," said an old Shoka who had 
just arrived from Garbyang. " The Lippu Pass, by which 
you wish to enter Tibet, is still closed, and there is much 
snow on it still. Then the Jong Pen of Taklakot, in Tibet, 
having been left unpunished for his last years attack 
on Lieutenant Gaussen, has now a strong guard of three 
hundred men to prevent foreigners entering the country. 
The Dakus (brigands) infesting the region of the Man- 
sarowar Lake seem to be more numerous this year than 
ever." 

I shall come in for a lively time, I thought to myself. 

My next camp was at Shankula, 7450 feet above the 
sea-level. It was reached by going over a delightfully 
cool track, not unlike a shady path through a picturesque 
park, among tall cedars of Lebanon, beeches, and maples, 
with here and there a stream or spring of water, and hun- 
dreds of black-faced, white-bearded monkeys playing and 
leaping from tree to tree. 

I encamped by the river. The day was glorious. In 
front of me, northeast by east, stood, gigantic and majestic, 
some high snowy peaks. The valley was narrow, and the 

58 



A STEEP CLIMB 

remainder of the snowy range of mountains was hidden 
from sight. What a lovely subject for a picture! I was 
tempted to halt and unpack my paint-box and sketch- 
book ; and abandoning my lunch, which was being cooked, 
I climbed to the summit of a high peak in order to ob- 
tain a more extensive view. The ascent, first on slippery 
grass, then over slaty rocks, was by no means easy, nor 
devoid of a certain amount of danger ; but so keen was I 
to get to the top that I reached the summit very quickly, 
leaving half-way down the mountain slope the two men 
who had followed me. In places near the top there were 
rocks to climb that stood almost perpendicular, and it was 
necessary to use hands as well as feet. It was not unlike 
climbing up a rough wall. I was nevertheless well repaid 
for my trouble. The view r from that high point of vantage 
was magnificent, and I confess that I felt almost too am- 
bitious when, having unslung my paint-box, I attempted 
to reproduce on paper the scene before me. 

" I am a fool," said I to myself, " to try and paint that ! 
What painter could do those mountains justice!" 

I dashed off the picture, as usual, very hastily, but never 
was a rash venture rewarded with poorer result, and those 
eternal giants remained unportrayed. 

Disconsolate, I made my way down. It was more diffi- 
cult even than the climb up. A false step, a slip, and it 
might have cost me my life, especially along the steep 
precipice, where I had to cling to anything projecting 
in the wall -like rock. I had gone four thousand feet 
higher than the camp, reaching an elevation of 11450 
feet above sea-level. 

It was this performance, watched anxiously from my 
camp down below, as well as by the army of men belong- 
ing to the Deputy Commissioner of Almora, who was 
also here encamped, that won me the name among the 
6 59 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

natives of " Chota Sahib/' the " Langur," the "small sir," 
the " monkey," a name of which I have been proud ever 
since. 

Some seventy-three miles from Pithoragarh the Shan- 
kula River enters the Kali, the course of the Shankula 
being roughly from north-northwest to south-southeast. 

The track, once the Shankula stream is crossed, tends 
towards the southeast, and with a gentle incline rises to 
8570 feet at Gibti, where I encamped somewhat above 
the Gala Daramsalla. I had gone through forests of 
maple, beech, oak, and rhododendrons, with a thick under- 
growth of scrub and bamboo. 

The Kali River, about two thousand feet down below 
my camp, marks the boundary between Nepal and Kuma- 
011. From this high point the foaming stream can be 
seen for miles, winding between thickly wooded hills and 
mountains like a silver ribbon on a dark, reposeful back- 
ground. 

The march from my last camp was a very short one, so 
I had the greater part of the day left for work. Previously 
I had usually halted in Daramsallas (stone-walled shelters), 
and in default of these my men put up for me a neatly 
made "Chahna," # or " chopper," a hut of mats and 
branches of trees, in the construction of which the Paharis 
are wonderfully dexterous. I had also my small " moun- 
tain tent," a tente cCabri, quite comfortable enough for 
ordinary requirements. 

It seems, however, that this style of travelling is not 
considered comme il faut by the officials of India. It is 
the number and size of one's tents, according to these au- 
thorities, that make one a greater or a smaller gentleman. 
I had put up my tent — three feet high, seven feet long 

* Chahna — Pahari. Chopper, Dehsi — Hindustani. 

60 



RANK SETTLED BY SIZE OF TENT 

and four feet wide — by the side of the two double-leaf 
eighty-pound tents of the Deputy Commissioner, but this 
official and his companions were far from pleased with 
this act of familiarity. For a double-tented sahib to be 
seen in company with another sahib whose bijou tent rose 
from the ground hardly up to one's waist was infra dig, 



mm 






THE TENT 



and a serious threat to the prestige of the British in India. 
I was therefore politely requested to move from my cosey 
quarters to a more dignified abode lent me by the one- 
eyed Lai Sing, a Tokudar # and brother of the Patwari.f 

Being thus promoted in everybody's estimation ex- 
cept my own, I wrote the greater part of the afternoon 



* Tokudar — Head village man. t Patwari— Accountant for a Par* 



fcana, 



61 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

until dark. Having done this, I dined and spent a pleas- 
ant evening with the British official. 

The night was stormy ; the wind shook my tent. I 
went to sleep wrapped in my solitary camel-hair blanket. 
Some hours later a sharp knock on my head woke me. 
It was the centre pole of the tent that had moved out of 
its socket and had fallen on me. This was followed by 
a rushing noise of canvas, and I found myself in a mo- 
ment uncovered and gazing at the stars. 

There were white things flying about in the air, and, 
to my horror, I discovered the leaves upon which were 
my literary efforts scattered in the wind. 

I jumped up, but of the ten or twelve foolscap leaves 
of thin paper I only managed to recover two or three. 
The others soared gracefully to and fro in the air, and I 
suppose settled eventually in the Kali. This meant re- 
writing all next day, a tedious job when you are burning 
to get on. 

The sun rose. The camp began to wake up. All 
were shivering with cold. I took my usual cold bath, sur- 
rounded by a half-frozen crowd of astonished onlookers, 
wrapped up in their thick woollen blankets, crouching 
round me with their chins on their knees. 

The tent was recovered after a while, and soon all was 
ready to start. 



CHAPTER X 



THE NERPANI, OR "WATERLESS TRACK" — EXAGGERATED ACCOUNTS — 
A LONG SHOT — THE RESCUE OF TWO COOLIES— PICTURESQUE NAT- 
URE — AN INVOLUNTARY SHOWER-BATH — THE CHAI PASS 

The renowned Nerpani, or Nerpania, " waterless track," 
begins at Gibti. Very few travellers have been on this 
road, and by the accounts 
brought back many people 



--. 




NERPANI ROAD 



have been prevented from 
imitating their example. 

Personally I found the 
track far better than I an- 
ticipated. I have been on 
worse mountain roads, 
among less precipitous 
cliffs. From what I had 
heard it seemed as if the 
greater part of the road for 
several miles was supported 
on crow-bars fixed in the 

rock, but such is not the case. Here and there, how- 
ever, are spots where tracks have to be trodden upon 
overhanging precipices ; and where the perpendicular 
cliff did not allow of a road to be cut except at great ex- 
pense, crow-bars have been more or less firmly planted 
horizontally in the rock, and a narrow path made over 
them with large slabs of stone. The drop from the path 
to the river is often from eighteen hundred to two thou- 
sand feet, and the path is in many places no wider than 

63 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

six inches. But to any sure-footed traveller that does 
not constitute a real danger. The road is tedious, for 
the Nerpania cliff along which it has been constructed is 
subdivided into three smaller cliffs, separated in turn one 
from the other by ravines. It is thus troublesome to 
climb up and down some thousands of feet, each time 
along interminable and badly put together flights of 
steps, only to descend again on the other side. Some of 
the descents, especially the last to Gulamla, are precipi- 
tous ; but with no nails in one's shoes and no stick in 
one's hand, there is really little danger for any one ac- 
customed to mountaineerino;. 

These are the main elevations on the road: Gibti, 
8650 feet, 6750 feet, 7600 feet, 6700 feet, 7100 feet, 6600 
feet. From Gulamla at bearings magnetic 350 , going 
close to the river-bed through a gorge, one obtains a fine 
view of a huge gneiss peak towering on the left side of 
the Neganza, or Nejangas, Mountain. This peculiar rock, 
shaped like a fortress, goes by the name of the Ladjekut 
Peak, and rises where the Nejangar River meets the 
Kali. Here we pitched our tents. 

Towards sunset there was much agitation in camp 
over the appearance of wild goats on the other side of 
the Kali River in Nepal. 

u Your rifle, sahib — -your rifle!" shouted a chorus of 
impatient natives. " Quick, quick, your rifle !" 

I seized my Mannlicher and followed the excited gang 
to a place some hundred yards away, where a large, 
boisterous crow T d had collected to watch the game. 

" Where are they?" said I, as I could not see anything. 

"There! there!" they all screamed at the top of their 
voices, pointing to the summit of the opposite cliff- over 
four hundred yards distant. 

" Oh, that is too far." 

64 



A GOOD SHOT AND WHAT FOLLOWED 

' No, no, sahib ; please shoot," they all implored. 

I put up the Lyman back-sight to four hundred yards, 
took aim, and fired. Down came rolling from rock to 
rock the poor wild goat, amid the frantic excitement of 
the crowd around me. It rolled down until it came to 
the shrub and vegetation, where its progress became 
slower. It fell on the small trees, and, bending them by 
its weight, it would drop a few seconds later on to a 
lower one. The trepidation on our side was intense. 
At last the graceful body struck across a bigger tree and 
swung on it for some minutes. The oscillation slowly 
ceased, and tree and goat became motionless. There our 
prey stuck fast. 

Hatchets were immediately produced, and two tall 
trees hurriedly cut and felled. A bridge was being 
spanned to cross the dangerous cold and swift waters of 
the Kali. A tree was thrown across, and its point just 
about reached a high rock on the other side. Then, 
amid a dead silence, a coolie balanced himself over it. 
He had nearly reached the opposite bank when there 
was a crash. The tree broke, and the man was in the 
water, frightened and screaming pitifully, clutching a 
branch with convulsive fingers. 

Another coolie went to his rescue, but the tree being 
now swung by the current, he also was pitched into the 
water. It was only after a terrible moment of suspense 
that our men had the common -sense to draw the tree 
back towards the shore. One and all joined in a supreme 
effort, and the two men were eventually saved. 

Our way to the next camp was first through a high, 
narrow ^orge. A beautiful waterfall on terraces faced 
us. From 6700 feet the road ascended to 7650 feet, 
then on flights of steps and in places over crow-bars the 
weary traveller descended to 700Q feet, where at Malpa 

I.— E 65 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the road was for a space nearly level. The Malpa River, 
running from north to south, was crossed. On the 
Nepal side across the Kali the vegetation was luxuriant, 
while on the Kumaon side it was sparse and bare. 
Farther on, another beautiful waterfall. 







THE NERPANT ROAD 



The track now rose on a steep incline to 8120 feet 
among huge rocks and boulders. What with the gi- 
gantic snow-peaks, the pretty waterfalls, the weird char- 
acter of the country traversed, one got so interested in 
one's surroundings that one forgot all about any difficulty 
of climbing. 

From barren hills and rocks the track suddenly be- 
came clayfch and sandy, and in a series of zig-zags 
well shaded by Tchuk, Utish, and Ritch trees, with a 

66 



LAHMARI CAMP 

thick undergrowth of scrub wood and stunted vegetation, 
we found ourselves down as low as 6750 feet, ascending 
immediately after in a very short distance to 8100 feet at 
Camp Lahmari. 

In olden times the path went over the highest part of 
the cliff, and it took a good walker the whole day to 





THE NERPANI ROAD 



reach from one spring of water to the next — hence the 
name of " waterless." 

Here practically ended the Nerpani (waterless track), 
and an involuntary shower-bath soon awaited the passer- 
by, drenching him to the skin, unless he was provided 
with waterproof and umbrella. The spray descended 
from a great height for a length of some thirty or forty 
yards, the road being very narrow and very slipper) 7 , so 

6 7 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

that progress was particularly slow. The name of the 
waterfall was Takti. 

The track, if not more level, was nevertheless better 
after this to the sore -footed walker. It was less rocky, 
and devoid of the tiresome flights of steps. 

On leaving Lahmari we immediately had a steep rise 
to 9600 feet. Then a drop of 400 feet, and we found 




THE CHAI-LEK PASS 



ourselves on the Buddi River, a tributary of the Kali. 
Just above the bridge was a magnificent waterfall, by 
the left side of which we found a kind of grotto hol- 
lowed out under a rock. The Shokas and Tibetans used 
it as a camping-ground. 

To our right, high up on the cliff-side, was the pict- 
uresque village of Buddi (9300 feet), with its two and 
three storied houses. Below and over it in long zigzags 

68 



THE CHAI PASS 

could be seen the track ascending to the top of Chai- 
Lek, or Tcheto Pass, as the Shokas call it. At bearings 
magnetic 170° we had the towering Namjun peak, so 
high that I was told it could be seen even from Almora 
and Ranikhet. 

Then as we proceeded up the steep clayish track I 
could not, on looking back, help admiring the magnifi- 




NARROW GORGE BETWEEN TWO MOUNTAINS 



cent Kali valley, with its gigantic cliffs and gorges sur- 
mounted by lofty snow peaks. On that Chai Pass my 
two aneroids registered an altitude of 1 1,190 feet. I was 
now on a small, flat table-land. Darcy Bura, the richest 
Shoka trader from Buddi, had erected here a bargain- 
house for the purchase and exchange of borax, salt, wool, 
and other articles from Tibet. On the left side of the 
road a large cave in the rock had been walled and partly 

69 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

roofed over for the use of wife-seekers from the villages 
of Buddi and Garbyang. These houses were called Ram- 
bangs, and were an old institution among the Shokas, of 
which I shall have occasion to speak at length later on. 
As custonwy, a few high poles with flying prayers and 
a bell had been placed near the pass. 



CHAPTER XI 

A SERIES OF MISFORTUNES — TIBETAN ATROCITIES ON BRITISH SUB- 
JECTS—TIBETAN EXACTIONS— REVOLTING CRUELTY TO ONE OF HER 
MAJESTY'S SUBJECTS — ASSAULT ON A BRITISH OFFICER — A SMART 
BRITISH ENVOY 

My arrival at Garbyang was watched by hundreds of 
men, women, and children, all squatting on the edge of 
the flat mud roofs of their habitations, while a few dozen 
people followed me respectfully to my camping-ground 
beyond the village. A large tent had been put up for me 
by Pundit Gobaria's brother, who had been informed of 
my coming by Anti Ram Sah, my banker at Almora. 
Mr. G., Deputy Commissioner, arrived later. 

I was very anxious to make immediate arrangements 
to enter Tibet, but all my efforts to obtain reliable follow- 
ers were of little avail. 

I heard to my regret, a day or two later, that the plan 
of my journey, which with so much trouble and care I had 
kept secret, had been divulged to the Tibetan authorities. 
Misfortunes never come singly ! Against my will I had 
been advised to pay a certain sum at Almora, in exchange 
for which I received a letter of credit on Pundit Gobaria, 
a rich trader of Garbyang, who was to pay me the amount 
in silver. Unluckily, Gobaria was still absent in Nepal, 
and no one else could cash a check for the amount I 
wanted. This was tiresome — all the more so as I had 
counted on the money. I immediately sent a runner to 
Almora to have the sum in silver sent at once. This in- 
volved much publicity and considerable risk. 

7i 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Also delay was inevitable. All the passes were closed 
and fresh snow was falling daily. It was just possible 
with much difficulty for a man to cross the Lippu Pass, but 
no baggage could be taken through. I made up my mind 
to remain a few days in Garbyang, and took this oppor- 
tunity to have a large Tibetan tent manufactured to shel- 




THE GATES OF GARBYANG 



ter my future followers — if ever I could find any — and it 
might help me, I calculated, to become friendly with the 
natives, among whom I hoped to find some willing fol- 
lowers. 

Dr. H. Wilson, of the Methodist Evangelical Mission, 
went to much trouble in trying to get together men for 
me, but, though his influence was and is considerable in 
Bias and Chaudas, his efforts were not crowned with suc- 

72 



> 
too 

> 
O 




I. — F 



CASES OF TIBETAN CRUELTY 

cess. The Shokas know well how terribly cruel the Tibe- 
tans are. They have suffered at their hands more than 
once, and even of recent years the Government of India 
has had reported by its own officers cases of horrible tort- 
ures inflicted by the Tibetan authorities on British sub- 
jects captured by them on our side of the frontier. Some 
of the atrocities committed by the Lamas on British sub- 
jects are revolting, and it is a matter of great regret and 
indignation to the Englishmen who visit these regions to 
think that the weakness of our officials in Kumaon has al- 
lowed and is allowing such proceedings still to go on. So 
incapable are they, in fact, that the Jong Pen of Taklakot, 
in Tibet, sends over, "with the sanction of the Govern- 
ment of India," his yearly emissaries to collect Land 
Revenue* from British subjects living on British soil. 
The Shokas have to pay this tribute — and do so out of 
fear — in addition to other taxes and trade dues iniqui- 
tously exacted by the Tibetans. 

On the slightest pretext the Tibetans arrest, torture 
mercilessly, fine, and confiscate property of British sub- 
jects on British territory. 

At the time of my visit there could be seen, in Gar- 
byang and other villages, British subjects (Shokas) who 
had been mutilated by the Tibetan authorities. 

Even Dr. H. Wilson, who had erected a dispensary at 
Gungi (one march beyond Garbyang), was lately threat- 
ened with confiscation — and worse perhaps — if he did 
not immediately comply with the exactions of the Tibe- 
tans. He declined to do so, and reported the matter to 
the Government, relying on a good rifle in the house and 
his many servants. His determination not to be intimi- 



* The sums are now collected by the Political Peshkar and handed 
over in Garbyang to the Tibetans. 

73 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

dated seems to have given him temporary security, for the 
Tibetans are as cowardly, when they think themselves 
matched, as they are cruel. 

Let me quote one example of cruelty which occurred 
as late as 1896. A Shoka trader, undeniably a British 
subject, had gone over the border, as is customary with 
them during the summer, to dispose of his merchandise 
in the Tibetan market. He and another Shoka, also a 
British subject, had a quarrel. Aware that the first 
Shoka was wealthy, the Tibetan authorities took this pre- 
text to arrest him and impose upon him an exorbitant 
fine, besides, the additional punishment of two hundred 
lashes, to be administered to him by order of the Jong 
Pen. The Shoka remonstrated, on the plea that he had 
done no harm, and that, being a British subject, they had 
no right to so punish him. The Jong Pen saw his orders 
executed, and further commanded his men to cut off the 
wretched prisoner's hands. He was made over to two 
soldiers intrusted with the carrying-out of the sentence. 
They led him away to the place of punishment. The 
Shoka w r as of a powerful build and possessed courage. 
Though half dead and covered with wounds, he overcame 
his guardians and escaped. The alarm was instantly 
given and a large party of horsemen sent to capture him. 
They caught him up, and when at close range fired on 
him and wounded him in the knee, smashing the knee- 
cap. He was surrounded, pounced upon, beaten merci- 
lessly, and, last but not least, all his fingers were one by 
one crushed into pulp between two heavy stones. In 
this condition he w r as dragged before the Lamas, only to 
be decapitated! Mr. Sturt, an able and just officer, who 
was then Deputy Commissioner at Almora, became ac- 
quainted with these facts, and, having fully ascertained 
their accuracy, reported them to the Government, strong- 

74 



ATTACK ON A BRITISH OFFICER 

ly advising immediate action against the Tibetans for 
this and other cruelties that were constantly taking place 
on our frontier. Though it was undeniably proved that 
the victim was a British subject, the Government of India 
took no steps in the matter. 

The same year, 1896, Lieutenant Gaussen, who on a 
shooting-trip tried to enter Tibet by the Lippu Pass, was 






MATAN SING CHAPRASSI NARENGHIRI CHAPRASSI 

surrounded by Tibetan soldiers, and he and his servants 
were seriously ill-treated. The British officer received a 
nasty wound on his forehead, and one of his servants, who 
behaved heroically, was so cruelly handled that, two years 
later, he was still an invalid. 

Mr. J. Larkin, Deputy Collector at Almora, was then 
despatched to the frontier. No better man could have 
been sent. Firm, just, and painstaking, he became popu- 
lar and much respected among the Shokas. He listened 
to their troubles and sufferings; he administered justice 
wherever possible. He refused audience to no one, and 

75 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

during his flying visit became well acquainted with the 
country, the people, and all that went on. The poor 
Shokas felt much relieved, thinking that at last the 
Tibetan abuses would be put an end to. They were 
not mistaken, at least for a time. The Jong Pen of 
Taklakot was called upon to answer for his many mis- 
deeds. He refused an interview. Mr. Larkin sent word 
across the border that he would have no trifling and 
that he must come, upon which the Jong Pen, with 
his officers and Lamas, crossed the snowy Lippu Pass. 
Trembling with fear and bending low to the ground, the 
Tibetans, with abject servility, entered the tent of our 
British envoy. The account of the interview, which I 
received in full from a Shoka gentleman who was pres- 
ent as interpreter, is amusing and curious, showing the 
mutability and hypocrisy of the Tibetans. In the long- 
run, and being well acquainted with the cowardice of his 
visitors, Mr. Larkin not only obtained redress on every 
point, but gave the Jong Pen and his officers a severe 
harangue. The result of the interview was that the col- 
lection of the Land Revenue should be put a stop to, and 
that Tibetan law should no more be administered on our 
side of the frontier. 

Mr. Larkin's visit to Bhot was cut short by urgent 
orders to return immediately to Almora. 

The following year (the year of my visit, 1897), Mr. G., 
Deputy Commissioner, undid much that the previous of- 
ficer had accomplished. The Jong Pen, when summoned; 
declined to come, and sent over deputies in his place. 
The upshot of it was that Land Revenue was again paid 
by the Shokas to the Tibetan tax-collectors through the 
Peshkar. 

I have mentioned these facts as representative of many, 
and to show how it came that the natives, who had never 

76 



SHOKAS UNPROTECTED 

had any protection from our Government, were disinclined, 
notwithstanding the temptations I offered them, to brave 
the dangers of Tibet. I, who later on suffered so much 
through being betrayed by Shokas, am the first to forgive 
and not to blame them. Though nominally our subjects, 
their actual rulers are the Tibetans, and we do nothing to 
protect them against the exactions and tortures of the in- 
truders. Why, then, should we expect them to be faithful 
to us ? The Shokas are not treacherous by nature, but 
they are compelled to be deceitful to protect their lives 
and their homes. Properly treated, these honest, gentle, 
good-natured mountaineers would assuredly become loyal 
and trustworthy British subjects. 



CHAPTER XII 



TIBETAN THREATS- 



-MY BIRTHDAY — RAVENOUS DOGS — A BIG DINNER- 
SHOKA HOSPITALITY 



The Jong Pen of Taklakot, on hearing of my proposed 
visit, sent threats that he would confiscate the land of any 

man who came in my 
employ, besides men- 
aces of " flogging" 
and subsequent " be- 
heading " of myself 
and any one caught 
with me. Personal- 
ly I paid little atten- 
tion to these intimi- 
dations. 

Consulting the cal- 
endar one day — a 
thing I did with great 
regularity in these 
regions — I made out 
that it was the ist of June, and I then remembered that 
the following day would be my birthday. Feasts were 
scarce in these high altitudes, and the prospect before me 
was that they would in the near future be even scarcer. 
It therefore occurred to me that I could not better while 
away a day at least of this weary waiting than by treating 
myself to a real big feast. 

Chanden Sing was despatched round the village to 

78 




THE HOUSE WHERE I STAYED AT GARBYANG 



A BIRTHDAY FEAST 

summon up to my tent all the local Bunyas (tradespeople). 
Rice, flour, eight pounds of butter (ghi), a large quantity 
of lump sugar, pepper, salt, and a fat sheep were purchased. 
The latter was forthwith beheaded, skinned, and dressed 
in the approved fashion by the faithful Chanden Sing, who 
was indeed a Jack-of-all-trades. 

Unfortunately I am a careless house, or rather tent, 





*k , ... te:A 

SHOKA HOUSE WITH STRANGE LADDER 



keeper, and I intrusted my chaprassis with the job of 
stowing away the provisions, for which purpose a recess 
under the native low bedstead served to perfection, hold- 
ing as it did the different -sized vessels, with the bachri 
(sheep) in pieces, and the rice, flour, butter, etc. 

While this was being done I worked away hard at writ- 
ing, and, getting interested, continued at it till an early 
hour of the morning ; I got tired at last, and, wrapping 

79 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

myself up in my blanket, I soon went to sleep next to a 
heap of stones piled up by the cautious Chanden Sing. 

" Sahib," had been his warning, " there are many hungry 
dogs about. If they come, here are a few missiles ready 
for them," and he pointed to the ammunition. 

" All right ; good-night." 

The wisdom of this was soon apparent, for I had not 
slept long when I was aroused by the hollow sound of 
lip-smacking, apparently arising from more than one 
mouth, accompanied by the movement of the stretched 
canvas bed on which I was lying. Jumping to my feet, 
I alighted upon a living mass of unwelcome guests ; but 
before I even realized what had been going on, they had 
scampered away, the brutes! carrying between their tight- 
ly closed jaws a last mouthful of my dainties. 

The ammunition at my disposal was quickly used up — 
a poor revenge, even when I heard the yell of a dog I hap- 
pened to hit in the dark. On striking a match, I found 
the large brass bowls emptied, the rice and flour scattered 
all over the tent, and the sheep practically vanished. 

I determined not to be done out of this piece of in- 
dulgence, which now seemed desirable beyond words, al- 
though I crawled back into my blanket, and found for 
a while oblivion in sleep. I was no sooner up in the 
morning than I planned a new banquet. But in the nick 
of time, Mr. G., who had gone a march farther, returned 
with his escort of policemen, moonshees, pundits, and chap- 
rassis. 

" Never mind, Landor," said he, kindly, when I had 
told him of my trouble, u you come and dine with me. 
These chaps shall get you up a special dinner in their 
own way." 

My stores were put under tribute, instead of the native 
Bunyas, and we had a very excellent meal indeed. We 

80 



A BIG DINNER 

had Bovril soup and Irish stew, roast mutton, potted 
tongue, roast chicken, gigantic swan eggs poached on 
anchovy toast, jam omelette, chow-chow preserves, ginger 
biscuits, boiled rhubarb, and what not else — remembered 
by me with desperate longing in the near future, when 
any of these dainties would have been like manna from 




SHOKA HOUSES 



heaven. I must not forget, by -the -way, an excellent 
plum-cake of no small dimensions, crammed full of rais- 
ins and candy, which I had brought from Mrs. G. at 
Almora to her husband, and to which we, with blessings 
for her, did the fullest justice. 

Thanks to Mr. G., and also to the fortunate coinci- 
dence of receiving a batch of letters from parents and 
friends, which reached me on that day by runner from 
Khela, I do not think that I could have spent a happier 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

birthday anywhere. I knew well enough that these were 
to be the last moments of contentment. I did not dare to 
look into the future. After this I should be cut off from 
civilization, from comfort even in its primitive form; and, 
to emphasize this fact, it happened that on the very morn- 
ing following my birthday Mr. G. left and continued his 
journey to Almora. 

The weather was cold and rain fell in torrents, the 
thermometer never being above 52° during the warmest 
hours of the day. My soaked tent stood in a regular pool 
of water, notwithstanding the double trenches round it, 
and several Shoka gentlemen had before asked me to 
abandon it and live in a house. They were all most anx- 
ious to extend to me hospitality, which I, not wishing to 
trouble them, and in order at all hazards to be entire- 
ly free and unhampered in my actions, courteously but 
firmly declined. Nevertheless, quite a deputation ar- 
rived on June 4th, renewing their request; but I was deter- 
mined to have my way. In vain ! They would not see a 
sahib under cold canvas while they themselves had com- 
fortable homes. They held a consultation. Unexpect- 
edly, and notwithstanding my remonstrances, my loads 
were suddenly seized and carried triumphantly on the 
backs of a long row of powerful Shokas towards the vil- 
lage. I had to follow nolens volens, and from that day on 
I grew through constant contact daily more convinced of 
the genuine friendliness and kind-heartedness of these 
people. 

To prevent my coming back, they even pulled down 
the tent, and, wet as it was, carried it away. Zeheram 
and Jaimal, two leading Shokas, held my hands and pat- 
ted me on the back as they led me with every sign of 
courtesy to my new dwelling. 

This turned out to be a fine two-storied building with 

82 



SHOKA HOSPITALITY 

nicely carved wooden door and windows colored red and 
green. So great was the anxiety and fear of these good 
people that I should turn back at this juncture, that some 
twenty outstretched hands seized me by the arms, while 
others pushed me from behind up a flight of ten or 
twelve steps into the house, where I found myself the 
guest of my good friend Zeheram. I was given the front 
of the first floor, consisting of two large clean rooms, 
with a very fair native bedstead, a table, and two or more 
moras (round cane stools covered with skin) ; and I had 
no sooner realized that I must stay than presents of 
sweets, preserved fruit, dried dates, and tea were brought 
for my acceptance — tea made in the Tibetan fashion with 
butter and salt in it. 

Even if at first I had had slight apprehensions at the 
expression of such very unusual hospitality, these were 
soon dispelled, and I was proud to be assured by my host 
that I was the first Englishman (or, for that, European or 
American) who had been allowed to enter the living part 
of a Shoka house and partake of food in a Shoka dwell- 
ing. The opportunity was too good to be lost 



CHAPTER XIII 

SHOKA HOSPITALITY — HOW I OBTAINED MUCH INFORMATION—ON A RE- 
CONNOITRING TRIP — A TERRIBLE SLIDE 

They are, indeed, Nature's gentlemen, these worthy 
Shokas, and as such they did all in their power to make 
my stay among them pleasant. It was a contest be- 
tween them as to who should entertain me first, and who 
should be the next. Invitations to breakfast and dinner 
literally poured in ; and those convenient " sick head- 
aches," " colds," and "previous engagements," so opportune 
in more conventional parts, were of no avail here. No 
card, no friendly note bade one to come and be merry. 
They generally arrived en masse to fetch me. Pulling 
and pushing played a not unimportant part in their urg- 
ing, and to decline was thus out of the question. Indeed, 
I must confess there was but little inclination to decline 
on my part. When you arrived, your host spread out 
fine mats and rugs, of Tibetan and ancient Chinese man- 
ufacture, and often of great value. In front of a raised 
seat were displayed in shiny brass bowls the various 
viands and delicacies which constituted the meal. There 
was rice always ; there were curried mutton, milk, and 
curd with sugar; then chapatis, made in Hindustani fash- 
ion ; and Shale, a kind of sweet pancake made of flour, 
ghi (butter), sugar or honey ; also Parsad, a thick paste 
of honey, burned sugar, butter, and flour, all well cooked 
together — a dainty morsel even for a jaded palate. 

I was invariably made to sit on the raised seat, which I 

84 



CORDIAL REPASTS 

did cross-legged, while the crowd squatted respectfully 
on the floor round the room, forming a semicircle with 
me in the centre. I generally ate with my fingers in 
their own manner, a courtesy they particularly appreciated; 
and although I must have seemed awkward to them at 
first, I soon acquired a sort of dexterity in manipulating 
hot food — meat and vegetables, for instance — with my 




SHOKA CHILD BEING SMEARED WITH BUTTER 



hand. The trick is not very difficult, but it requires 
practice. You gather up your five fingers downward in 
the dish, seizing a mouthful, and with a rapid circular 
twist of the hand you collect as much sauce as you can 
round the morsel you have caught. With a still more 
rapid movement, and before anything has time to drip 
between your fingers, you half drop and half throw it 
into your mouth. 

I soon found that I could, during these cordial repasts, 
enlivened as they were by moderate libations of chokti and 
syrap (wine and spirit distilled from wheat), acquire con- 
siderable knowledge of anthropological and ethnological 

85 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



interest, and gather also much valuable information about 
Tibet and its people. They became, in fact, in the few 
days I spent among them, confiding to such a degree, 
and looked upon me so much as one of themselves, that 
I soon obtained the run of the whole place. They came 
to confide their grievances and troubles; they related to 
_ me their legends and 

folk-lore. They sang to 
me their weird songs 
and taught me their 
dances. They brought 
me to their marriages 
and strange funerals ; 
they took me to their 
sick men, women, and 
children, or conveyed 
them to me for cure. 
Thus, to my delight, 
and with such unique 
chances, my observa- 
tions of a pathological, 
physiological, and an- 
atomical character be- 
came more interesting 
to me day by day, and I 
have attempted to de- 
scribe in a later chapter some of the things I was able 
to note. 

After lingering in Garbyang for several days, I paid off 
my two chaprassis, Matan Sing and Narenghiri, and they 
returned to Almora. 

On June 6th I started on a journey towards the fron- 
tier, with a view to reconnoitre. 

Crossing into Nepal territory below Chongur village, 

86 




THE MASTER OF A HIGH-SCHOOL, 
ALTITUDE 10,940 FEET 



VILLAGE OF GUNGI 



and following upward the right bank of the Kali River 
in a direction of 320° (bearings magnetic), I reached Kanwa, 
a Shoka village on a high, cliff-like plateau under which 
meet the three rivers Kali, Taki, and Kuti. The Kali 
turns suddenly to 37 (bearings magnetic), while the Kuti 
River keeps a general 
direction of 325° (bear- 
ings magnetic). 

Having crossed again 
into Kumaon, I struck 
camp at Gungi. Before 
entering the village,- I 
passed Dr. Wilson's dis- 
pensary, not then com- 
pleted. In the village 
the houses were deco- 
rated with long poles 
joined by strings, from 
which hung and flew 
gayly in the breeze hun- 
dreds of wind prayers. 
The dwellings were 
mostly of the ancient, 
pure Shoka architect- 
ure, and not so fine or 
so clean as those in 

Garbyang. The place was picturesque, clear-cut against 
the curious background of the dome -like mountain, the 
Nabi Shankom, a peak of uncommon beauty, with its gray 
and reddish striped strata. Near it on another mountain 
was the Gungi Shankom, a gigantic quadrangular rock of a 
warm vellow and reddish color, not unlike a hu^e tower. 
When I reached its foot, the sun was casting his last dying 
rays on it, and the picture was so magical that I was tempt- 

87 




GUNGI SHANKOM 






IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

ed to sketch it. As I sat there, the shadow of the coming 
night rose higher and higher on the mountain-side, tinting 
it violet blue, and above it the Gungi Shankom stood re- 
splendent in all its glory like a tower of fire — till night 
descended, covering the mountain first, and little by little 
the Gungi Shankom itself. I shall not easily forget this 
sight. 

I slept under my little tente (Pabri, and found it de- 
lightfully cosey and warm. 

At 10 a.m. the next day I raised camp. The elevation 
here was 10,940 feet. Interesting was the Chiram, a col- 
lection of tombs, five in number, made of slabs of white 
stone with poles placed vertically upon them, and from 
the summit of which hung flying prayers. The Kuti 
River to my left was wide and rapid. On the opposite 
bank the village of Ronkan (11,100 feet) made a pretty 
vis-a-vis to the Nabi village on our side of the stream, 
at the same elevation, and directly under the lee of the 
Nabi Shankom. 

As I rose gradually along the river course the vegeta- 
tion grew sparse, and in front of me there remained noth- 
ing but barren rocks and high snowy peaks. The spot 
where, from opposite sides, the Gunkan River and the 
Nail River throw themselves into the Kuti River is most 
picturesque. There are on the water's edge a few pine- 
trees, but above there is nothing but wilderness — rock and 
ice and snow. 

I soon came upon much snow, and places where the 
track along the mountain-side was undiscoverable. Walk- 
ing was tiresome enough on the loose shingle and shale, 
but it became worse when I actually had to cut each step 
into the frozen snow. The work was tedious to a degree, 
and the progress slow. After a while I noticed a series 
of lofty snow tunnels over the raging stream, which is 

88 



AN EXTENSIVE SNOW-FIELD 

earlier in the season covered entirely by a vault of ice and 
snow. The higher I got the harder and more slippery 
grew the snow. The soles of my shoes having become 
soaked and frozen, made walking very difficult. At 
12,000 feet, being about three hundred feet above the 
stream, I had to cross a particularly extensive snow-field, 




ZAZZELA MOUNT, NEAR GUNGI 



hard frozen and rising at a very steep angle. Some of 
my coolies had gone ahead, the others were behind. Not- 
withstanding the track cut by those ahead, it was neces- 
sary to recut each step with one's own feet, so as to pre- 
vent slipping. This was best done by hammering several 
times into the white sheet with the point of one's shoe 
until a cavity was made deep enough to contain the foot 
and to support one upright. It should be done careful- 
ly each time, but I fear I had not the patience for that. 
I thought I had found a quicker method, and, by raising 
my knee high, I struck the snow with my heel, leaving 
8 89 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

my foot planted until the other one had by the same 
process cut the next step. 

It was in giving one of these vigorous thumps that I 
hit a spot where, under a thin coating of snow, was hard ice. 
My foot, failing in its grip, slipped, and the impulse caused 
me to lose my balance. I slid down the steep incline 
at a terrific pace, accompanied in my involuntary tobog- 
ganing over ice and snow by the screams of my horror- 




CIIIRAM 



stricken coolies. I realized that in another moment I 
should be pitched into the stream, which would have 
meant being carried under the long tunnel of ice to meet 
certain death beneath it. In those few seconds I found 
time tc speculate even as to whether those stones by the 
water's edge would stop me, or whether the impetus must 
fling me past them into the river. I attempted to get a 
grip in the snow with my frozen fingers, to steer myself 
with my heels, but with no success, when I saw ahead of 
me a large rock rising above the snow. With desperate 

90 



ir- 



ft 




INVOLUNTARY TOBOGGANING 



A MIRACULOUS ESCAPE 

tension of every nerve and muscle, I knew as I approached 
it, with the foaming water yonder, that it was my only 
hope. I consciously straightened my legs for the contact. 
The bump was tremendous, and seemed to shatter every 
bone in my body. But it stopped me, and I was saved 
only a few feet from the water's edge — miraculously, al- 
though fearfully bruised, with no bones broken. 

My fingers were cut by the ice and bleeding ; my clothes 
were torn. When I was able to stand, I signalled to the 
frightened and wailing coolies above to go on, and I my- 
self proceeded along the watercourse until I found a spot 
from which I could regain the upper track. 




SHOKA CHILD SMEARED WITH BUTTER, AND LEFT 
TO ABSORB BUTTER IN THE SUN 



CHAPTER XIV 

A PALAVER — TO SEE IS TO BELIEVE— DANGERS AND PERILS ON THE 
SNOW AND ICE— THAR AND GHURAL— STALKING — A TIRING CLIMB TO 
16,000 FEET — THE COLLAPSE OF A SNOW BRIDGE 

At Kuti I halted and summoned the leading natives to 
my tent. Would it be possible, I asked them, to get over 
the Lumpiya Pass or the still higher Mangshan ? The first 
is a rarely frequented pass on the way to Gyanema, the 
other a high and most difficult pass by which it is possi- 
ble, though not easy, to reach the Rakstal Lake by the 
jungle without going near a Tibetan settlement or en- 
campment. 

" No," was the decided answer from all the Shokas. 
" The snow is now too deep. Fresh snow falls daily. For 
another fortnight at least no human being can get across. 
To attempt it will mean losing one's life. At their best, 
during one month in summer, those two passes are ardu- 
ous and dangerous. Now it would be mere folly to at- 
tempt their ascent." 

With my distressingly sceptical nature I believe little 
that I do not see. I started next morning to observe for 
myself. My bearings were roughly northwest. Seeing 
me determined, several of the Kutial Shokas changed 
their mind and volunteered to follow me. They were of 
considerable help in many dangerous places. Here and 
there a few paces of narrow track were uncovered, other- 
wise we went long distances on frozen snow, over preci- 
pices down which it was almost fatal to look. 

92 



DIFFICULT TRAVELLING 

The lucky hair-breadth escape of the previous day con- 
tributed to make me lose confidence, not in myself, but in 
that white emblem of purity and innocence, in reality the 
most treacherous substance in creation. I soon found 
that wherever there was snow there was trouble. In 
spots where the snow was particularly hard frozen we 



sfir 




KUTI 



dared not attempt to walk on the steep, slippery surface, 
and we had to descend to the river, which was here 
bridged over completely with ice and snow. Crossing, we 
would attempt progress on the other side, and, having pro- 
ceeded with difficulty for a few hundred yards, would have 
to retrace our steps and try the first bank again. We thus 
crossed and recrossed the Kuti River more than half a 
dozen times, each crossing being preceded by a precipitous 
descent and immediately followed by a steep ascent. The 

93 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

cracks in the ice by the water-side were constant and 
perilous, and we did not risk remaining near them longer 
than was necessary. In six or seven hours we had walked 
a distance of less than four miles. Leaving the Kuti 
River and following due north the course of a tributary, 
the Kambelshio, we crossed over to its farther bank and 
pitched our tents at an altitude of 13420 feet. 

There remained a few hours of daylight when we ar- 
rived, and I employed them by going after Thar, or Tehr, 
and Gkural* (Himahlyan chamois) a couple of miles 
farther. I rose to 15,000 feet on a needle-like peak tower- 
ing over the spot where, in a narrow, picturesque gorge, 
the Tongzu pangti enters the Kuti River. The sources of 
the Tongzu pangti are about a thousand feet higher than 
the spot where it meets the Kuti River, and the stream 
has its birth from the melting snows, descending precip- 
itously and at a very short distance into the larger river. 

The rocks are here furred with saltpetre, and it is said 
to be a favorite spot for Thar. 

I enjoyed my trip so much that, rising with the sun, 
I started on the following morning to repeat my experi- 
ence. Moreover, I wanted to climb to some high point 
wherefrom I could make certain whether it was possible 
to proceed immediately across the Himahlyan range, or 
whether it was advisable to wait patiently until the snow 

* The Ghural is the Himahlyan chamois, found at even comparatively 
low elevations. They are generally seen in herds, with the exception of 
the oldest males, which are usually met with alone. It is not uncommon 
to see as many as eight or ten together, especially during their feeding 
time, shortly after sunrise and an hour or two before sunset. 

Thar, or Tehr (male), and Jahral (female), is the true and proper wild 
goat of the higher Himahlyan range. It is rarely found lower than 7000 
feet, and often as high as 15,000 feet above sea-level. Those found at 
lower elevations do not possess quite such a luxuriant growth of hair, nor, 
I am told, are their curved horns quite so long. They climb about preci- 
pices and dangerous spots with the greatest ease. 

94 



X 

m 

a 



< 

- 
- 



~^V~ 



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,'§; 



if 



.& 






<i 



n 




-W.-I' : ■' 1 




7^ 









A MAGNIFICENT VIEW 

had to some extent disappeared. I walked four miles 
from camp, reaching an altitude of 16,000 feet. The as- 
cent was rather tiring. Having wounded a Thar. I went 
after it up a fatiguing snow-field at a speed too great to 
be comfortable at such a very high elevation. When I 




OLD SHOKA WOMAN SMOKING 



reached the top, I was out of breath and the Thar too far 
off for a second shot. 

The view this high point commanded was stupendous. 
For miles and miles — and it seemed hundreds of miles — 
snow, snow, nothing but snow! There stood Jolinkan 
Mount rising above 19,000 feet. On either side of the 
Kuti River were peaks as high as 20,000 feet and more. 
Here and there the white sheet that covered the sur- 
rounding country seemed almost greenish. Those spots 
were glaciers, and I saw many of them, feeding as they 

95 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

do the numerous streams flowing into the Kuti River. I 
returned to camp for lunch. It was useless to proceed 
and even more useless remaining still. I gave orders to 
raise the camp, and at 2 p.m. we were under way back to 
Kuti. 

The day had been an unusually warm one, and the 
surface of the snow, so hard the previous day, was now 
soft and watery. Several of the snow bridges had al- 
ready disappeared. 

I had descended to the river preceded by some of my 
coolies. Two of them just in front of me were crossing 
over the stream on a thick and broad archway of ice. I 
was waiting for them to be safely across. When the 
men had nearly reached the other side they noticed a 
peculiar vibration underfoot. Scrambling away as best 
they could, they gave the alarm. 

I drew back hastily. In the nick of time ! for with a 
deafening roar like magnified thunder, echoed from cliff 
to cliff, dow T n went the bridge. The huge pieces of ice, 
only a moment before forming part of the vault, were 
now swept away by the furious stream and thrown with 
tremendous force against the next bridge, which quivered 
under the terrible clash. 

Three days' marching over the same route brought me 
back to Garbyang. 




CHANDEN SING AND THE DAKU 
ROLLING UP MY BEDDING 

96 



CHAPTER XV 

AN EARTHQUAKE — CURIOUS NOTIONS OF THE NATIVES — A SHOKA 
TAILOR AND HIS WAYS — THE ARRIVAL OF SILVER CASH— TWO ROCKS 
IN THE KALI — ARROGANCE OF A TIBETAN SPY 

On hearing that Dr. Wilson was now in Garbyang I 
went to call upon him. Squatted on soft Chinese and 
Tibetan mats and rugs, we were enjoying cup after cup 
of tea and devouring chapatis, when suddenly the whole 
building began to shake and rumble in the queerest 
manner, upsetting teapot and milk, and sending the cha- 
patis roaming to and fro all over the room. 

Leaving Dr. Wilson to save our precious beverage, I 
pulled out watch and compass to notice duration and di- 
rection of the shock. It was undulatory, very violent, 
and oscillating from south-southwest to north-northeast. 
The duration was exactly four minutes two seconds. The 
earthquake began at 5.20 p.m. and ended at 5I1. 24m. 2s. 

" It strikes me that it might have been wise to have 
gone out of the house,'' said I. " It is a wonder the 
building did not collapse. My cup is full of mud and 
debris from the ceiling." # 

" I have saved the tea for you!" said the doctor, trium- 
phantly, lifting in his muscular hands the teapot, which 
he had carefully nursed. He had soon discovered my 
devotion to the yellow liquid. 

We were quietly going on with our refreshment when 
a band of excited Shokas broke into the room. 

* The ceilings of Shoka houses are plastered with mud. 
... 97 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

" Sahib ! sahib ! where has it gone ?" cried they in a 
chorus, stretching their hands towards me and then fold- 
ing them in sign of prayer. " Sahib ! tell us where it has 
o^one I" 

" What?" rejoined I, amused at their suspense. 

" Did you not feel the earth shake and quiver ?" ex- 
claimed the astounded visitors. 

" Oh yes, but that is nothing." 



& 







m 
■Hf 



A WELL-ATTENDED SCHOOL 



" Oh no, sahib ! That is the precursory notice of 
some great calamity. The 'spirit' under the earth is 
waking up and is shaking its back." 

u I would rather it shook its back than mine," said I, 
jokingly. 

" Or mine," added the doctor, lightly, much to the as- 
tonishment of our awe-stricken callers. 

"Which way did it go?" repeated the impatient 
Shokas. 

I pointed towards the north-northeast, and they gave a 
sigh of satisfaction. It must have proceeded to the other 
side of the Himahlyas. 

9 8 . . 



THE EARTH-DEMON OF THE SHOKAS 

It appears, according to the primitive notions of the 
Shokas, that inside the earth lives in a torpid condition 
an evil spirit in the shape of a gigantic reptile, The 
rumbling preceding an earthquake is, to the Shoka 
mind, nothing else than the heavy breathing of the mon- 
ster previous to waking, whereas the actual shock is 
caused by the brute stretching its limbs. When fully 
awake the serpent-like demon darts and forces its way in 
one direction, compelling the earth to quake all along its 
subterranean passage, often causing by so violent a pro- 
cedure great damage to property and loss of life, not to 
speak of the fear and terror which it strikes in man and 
beast should the capricious spirit by chance make a re- 
turn journey to the spot below the earth's crust directly 
underfoot. It is curious and interesting, in analyzing 
these crude notions, to find that, independently of the 
cause attributed to its origin, the Shokas are aware of 
the fact that an earthquake " travels " in a certain di- 
rection. Moreover, common symptoms of the approach 
of a violent earthquake, such as depression and heaviness 
in the atmosphere, which they attribute to a feverish 
state of the giant reptile, are readily recognized by them. 

On my return to civilization some months later I dis- 
covered that on the same day a violent shock was felt all 
over India, causing considerable damage, especially in 
Calcutta. 

I had on first arriving in Garbyang ordered a tent, and 
the tailor who was intrusted with its manufacture had, 
after several days' intoxication, completed it. It was on 
the Tibetan pattern, with picturesque ornaments in blue. 
He had also been making me some Nepalese clothes, and 
these really turned out quite a success — no small wonder, 
considering the way he went to work. I had given him 
cloth and linino- which he took awav with him, but he 
i.— h 99 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

never troubled to take my measure ! He simply assured 
me that the suit would be ready on the following day. 
This was, of course, not the case, and on the next after- 
noon and for six consecutive days he placed himself in a 
state of hopeless intoxication under my window, singing 
and making comical salaams each time, I, after the custom 
of the country, threw something at him to induce him to 
go away. On the seventh day I caught him and shook 
him by the ears, explaining that if the clothes were not 
ready before nightfall I would, in default of other tailors, 
sew them myself. 

" I have a drop too much in me," confessed the amus- 
ing rascal. " I will go to sleep now. When I wake in 
the afternoon I shall be sober and will finish my work. 
Do not be angry, sahib. If only you drank yourself, 
sahib, you would know how lovely it is to be drunk." 
His philosophy did not agree with mine. But I felt sure 
that I had so far impressed him that he knew he must 
risk some personal violence if he delayed much longer. 
Sure enough, late in the evening he came with his work. 

" How they will fit I do not dare to guess," I remarked 
to Dr. Wilson, " considering the condition the man has 
been in while making them, and taking into account that 
he never measured me nor tried them on. After all, 
Nepalese clothes should be tight-fitting all over." 

Wonderful as it may seem, the clothes fitted like a 
glove. Clearly that man was a genius. Anyhow, he 
was intemperate enough to have been one. 

One day I had gone for a walk along the deserted road 
from the village. I was about a mile and a half from the 
inhabited part when three men who had been fast ap- 
proaching stood with blunt swords in front of me. They 
waved their blades clumsily, and shouted at the top of 

ioo 



MY MONEY ARRIVES 



their voices in an excited manner, "Rupiya! Rupiyaf" 
(Rupees ! Rupees !) Without thinking of the money that 
I had sent for and expected to receive, I took their at- 
titude as a threatening demand for the cash I might have 
on me. They were really grotesque in their gesticula- 
tions, and I brusquely pushed by them and continued my 
constitutional. When they 
saw me depart they scurried 
away hastily towards Garb- 
yang, and I gave the occur- 
rence no further thought. On J * 

my return to the village, how- 
ever, some hours later, a 
crowd of Shokas came up to 
me announcing that my mon- 
ey had arrived, and that the 
scared messengers, not daring 
to come near me a second 
time, had gone to Dr. Wil- 
son's house. There I found 
a peon and two chaprassis, 
the three men I had met on 
the road. They had brought 
a sum of eighteen hundred 
rupees in silver, nearly all in 
two-anna and four-anna pieces 

(sixteen annas to a rupee), which I had sent for from 
my banker, Anti Ram Sah, at Almora, and which it had 
taken three men to carry, owing to its weight. 

After an easy explanation with these three very peace- 
ful highwaymen, the silver was conveyed to my room, and 
the greater part of the night had to be spent in counting 
r the diminutive coins and packing them up in rolls of ten 
rupees each. 




MY BANKER AND AGENT 



IOI 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Just below Garbyang in the Kali River were, among a 
mass of others, two large rocks in the centre of the 
stream. These two rocks were constantly watched by 
the Shokas. The Kali, though named after a small 
spring below its real source, is, like most of its tributa- 
ries, mainly fed by melting snows. The greater quantity 
of water descends from the Jolinkan, the Lumpiya, the 
Mangshan, the Lippu, and the Tinker passes. The first 
four are in Kumaon, the last in Nepal. It stands to rea- 
son that the warmer the weather the greater is the quan- 
tity of snow melting on the passes, and therefore the 
higher the level of the river. When the two rocks are 
altogether under water all the passes are known to be 
open.* 

During the time I was in Garbyang I never had the 
luck to see this, but the level of the river was daily rising, 
and the time of tiresome expectation was certainly relieved 
by many amusing and a few awkward incidents. 

Having once been informed of my plans, the Jong Pen 
of Taklakot, in Tibet, was kept fully acquainted with my 
movements. His spies went daily backward and for- 
ward with details about me. This my friends confided 
to me regularly. One of these emissaries, a stalwart Tib- 
etan, more daring than the rest, actually had the impu- 
dence to enter my room and to address me in a boister- 
ous tone of voice. At first I treated him kindly, but he 
became more and more arrogant, and informed me, before 
several frightened Shokas to whom he was showing off, 
that the British soil I was standing on was Tibetan prop- 
erty. The British, he said, were usurpers and only there 
on sufferance. He declared that the English were cow- 



* N.B. — The Lippu Pass, the lowest of all, may be crossed with difficulty 
nearly all the year round. 

1 02 



AN IMPUDENT TIBETAN 

ards and afraid of the Tibetans. That is why they op- 
pressed the Shokas. 

This remark was too much for me, and it might any- 
how have been unwise to allow it to pass unchallenged. 
Throwing myself on him, I grabbed him by his pigtail, 
and landed in his face a number of blows straight from 





THE VALLEY OF GARBYANG 



the shoulder. When I let him go he threw himself down 
crying, and implored my pardon. Once and for all to 
disillusion the Tibetan on one or two points, I made him 
lick my shoes clean with his tongue, in the presence of 
the assembled Shokas. This done, he tried to scamper 
away, but I caught him once more by his pigtail and 
kicked him down the front steps which he had dared to 
come up unasked, 

103 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Chanden Sing happened to be basking in the sun at 
the foot, and, seeing the hated foreigner make so con- 
temptible an exit, leaped on him like a cat. He had heard 
me say, " Ye admi bura crab " (That man is very bad). 
That \vas enough for him, and before the Tibetan had re- 
gained his feet my bearer covered his angular features 
with a perfect shower of blows. In the excitement of the 
moment, Chanden Sing, thinking himself quite the hero, 
began even to shy huge stones at his terror-stricken victim, 
and at last, getting hold of his pigtail, to drag him round 
the yard — until 1 interfered and stopped the sport. 

104 



CHAPTER XVI 



THE RAMBANG — SHOKA MUSIC — LOVE - SONGS — DOLEFUL SINGING — 
ABRUPT ENDING — SOLOS — SMOKING— WHEN MARRIAGE IS CONTEM- 
PLATED—THE DELANG— ADULTERY— PUNISHMENT 







One Shoka institution, surprising in a primitive peo- 
ple, but nevertheless, to my way of thinking, eminent- 
ly sensible and advantageous, is 
the Rambang, a meeting-place or 
club where girls and young men 
come together at night for the 
sake of better acquaintance prior 
to entering into matrimony. Each 
village possesses one or more in- 
stitutions of this kind, and they 
are indiscriminately patronized by 
all well-to-do people, who recog- 
nize the institution as a sound 
basis on which marriage can be 
arranged. The Rambang houses 
are either in the village itself, or 
half-way between one village and 
the next, the young women of 
one village thus entering into 
amicable relations with the young men of the other, and 
vice versa. I visited many of these in company with 
Shokas, and found them very interesting. Round a big 
fire in the centre of the room men and women sat in 
couples, spinning wool and chatting merrily, for every- 

105 




MOTEMA, A SHOKA BEAUTY 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

thing appeared decorous and cheerful. With the small 
hours of the morning they seemed to become more sen- 
timental, and began singing songs without instrumental 
accompaniment, the rise and fall of the voices sounding 
weird and haunting to a degree. The Shoka men and 
women possess soft, musical voices, and the sounds 
which they utter are not simply a series of notes emitted 




ON THE WAY TO THE RAMBANG 



through the throat, but, as it were, the vibration of im- 
pressions coming from the heart and transmitted by 
means of their voices to others. Eastern in its charac- 
ter, the Shoka music is pleasing to the Western ear, not 
because it possesses quick progressions, flourishes, or any 
elaborate technicalities, but because it conveys the im- 
pression of reality and feeling. The responsive duets, 
sung by a young man and answered by a girl, pleased me 

1 06 



SHOKA MUSIC 



most. All their songs are plaintive, and contain modu- 
lations of the voice so mysteriously charming in effect, 
and so good in tone, that they really affect one pro- 
foundly. They only sing when the mood takes them ; 
never with a view to please others, but always simply to 
give vent to their emotions. Their love-songs generally 
open with a sentimental recitative, and then change into 
actual singing, with frequent modulations from one key 
into another. The time is irregular, and though certain 
rhythmical peculiarities recur con- 
stantly, yet each performer gives 
to v/hat he sings so strong a per- 
sonality of execution as to make 
it almost an individual composi- 
tion. Any one hearing Shokas 
sing for the first time would im- 
agine that each singer was impro- 
vising as he went along, but on 
closer comparison it will be found 
that musical phrases, certain fa- 
vorite passages and modulations 
in the voice, constantly recur not 
only in each song, but in all songs. They seem all of 
them based on the same doleful tune, probably a very 
ancient one, and only the different time in which it is 
given, and the eccentricities of the singer, give it a sep- 
arate and special character. One characteristic of Shoka 
songs — as of so many other Oriental tunes — is that they 
have no rounded ending, and this, to my ears, rather 
spoiled them. A similar abrupt break is a feature of 
their dances and their drum -beating. The song sud- 
denly stops in the middle of the air with a curious grat- 
ing sound of the voice, and I could not obtain any en- 
tirely satisfactory explanation of this ; the only answer 

107 





SHOKA EAR 
RING 



SHOKA EAR- 
RING 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

given me was that the singer could not go on forever, 
and that as long as he stopped it did not matter how 
he did it. Further, they considered an abrupt ending 
most suitable to music (or dancing), as it immediately 
brought you back to your normal state, should your 
mind have been carried away. One pleasant feature 
was that their songs were never sung in a loud tone of 





SILVER EAR-RINGS OF TIBETAN ORIGIN, WITH CORAL BEADS 



voice, nor did they aim at notes too high or too low 
for their voices, but kept themselves well within their 
compass. 

The only difference between solos given by men and 
those sung by women was that the former showed more 
plaintiveness and sentimentality, and greater mutability 
of thought, whereas the latter were more uniform, more 
lively, and less imaginative in their representation of 
feelings. The words of the love - songs, nearly always 
impromptu, can hardly be set down in these pages. 
From our standard of morality, and away from their own 
special surroundings, they might seem almost lewd, while 
in their place they certainly did not impress me as of- 

108 



MARRIAGE CUSTOMS 

fensive. When singing, the Shokas usually raise the end 
of their white shawl or dress, and hold it by the side of 
the head. 

Smoking was general, each couple sharing the same 
pipe. A few burning sticks of pine stuck in the rough 




SHOKA WOMAN WEAVING 



wall formed the only illumination, save the fire in the 
centre of the room slowly burning out. Signs of sleepi- 
ness became evident as morning came, and soon they all 
retired in couples, and went to sleep in their clothes on 
a soft layer of straw and grass. There they slept peace- 
fully in a row, and I retraced my steps to my dig- 
gings amid a deafening barking of pariah dogs. At 
these gatherings every Shoka girl regularly meets with 
young men, and while she entertains the idea of selecting 

109 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

from among them a suitable partner for life, she also does 
a considerable quantity of work with her spinning-wheel. 
Eventually, when a couple consider marriage advisable, 
the young man, dressed in his best clothes, proceeds to 
the house of his intended father-in-law, carrying with him 
a pot of chokti (wine), dried fruit, ghur (sweet paste), miseri 
(sugar-candy), and grilled grain. If the bridegroom is 
considered a suitable match, the parents of the girl re- 
ceive the young man with due consideration, and par- 
take heartily of the food and drink proffered by him. 
The marriage is there and then arranged, the bride- 
groom further disbursing to the father a sum of not less 
than five rupees and not more than one hundred. This 
is the etiquette of good Shoka society, and of all peo- 
ple who can afford it, the payment being called " milk- 
money," or money equivalent to the sum spent by the 
girl's relations in bringing her up. The marriage cere- 
mony is simple enough. A cake called Delang is baked, 
of which the friends of the two families partake. If 
either the bridegroom or bride refuse to eat a share of 
the cake, the marriage is broken off; if they both eat 
some of the cake, and later any dissension arises between 
them, all those who assisted at the function are called as 
witnesses that the marriage took place. Often even this 
primitive ceremony of eating cake is dispensed with, and 
Shoka marriages begin and continue as happy and faith- 
ful unions, without any special form of service or rite to 
solemnize the tie. 

They not only visit adultery on the guilty man himself 
by beating him, but the men proceed en masse to the 
house of his parents and denude it of all furniture, stores 
of grain, and merchandise. They confiscate the sheep, 
goats, yaks, and all their valuable saddles and loads, and 
present the whole proceeds to the man whose wife has 

no 



STRICT SOCIAL CODE 

been seduced — a recompense for the shame suffered. 
Frequently the unfortunate and innocent relations of the 
evil-doer are bound and even beaten to death by the 
villagers. These severe measures are resorted to in order 
to maintain a high standard of morality and honor, and 




RAMBANG GIRLS WITH ORNAMENTS 



there is little doubt that, primitive as these methods may 
seem, the good results obtained more than justify them. 
There are very few illegitimate births, with the exception 
of occasional Rambang children, and their arrival is a 
matter of such disgrace that they cannot be looked upon 
as seriously discrediting the social value of the Rambang. 



hi 



CHAPTER XVII 

FUNERAL RITES 

DEPARTURE OF THE SOUL — CREMATION — AMUSEMENT OF THE DEAD 
MAN'S SOUL— THE LAY-FIGURE — FEASTING — DOLEFUL DANCE— TRANS- 
MIGRATION OF THE SOUL— EXPENSIVE CEREMONIES— OFFERINGS BE- 
FORE THE LAY-FIGURE — DANCING AND CONTORTIONS — MARTIAL 
DANCES— SOLO DANCES— THE ANIMAL TO BE SACRIFICED AND THE 
LAY-FIGURE — CHASING THE ANIMAL FROM THE VILLAGE — TEARING 
OUT ITS HEART— THE YAK DRIVEN OVER A PRECIPICE — HEAD SHAV- 
ING — A SACRED CAVE 

The Shokas ascribe death to the departure of the soul 
from the body, and to this notion is due the curious rever- 
ence they show for the spirit or memory of their dead. I 
witnessed a funeral ceremony quaint enough to deserve 
record. 

A man had died a painful death, the result of an ac- 
cident. His friends were immediately sent for, and the 
corpse, having been smeared with butter (gki), was dressed 
in his best clothes. They bent his body double before 
rigidity set in, and placed him on a hurriedly constructed 
wooden hearse. He was covered with a blue-and-gold 
embroidered cloth, and a white one over it. At sunrise 
the funeral procession left the house for the place of crema- 
tion. First came a row of ten women, their heads cov- 
ered with a long strip of white cotton cloth, one end of 
which was tied to the hearse. Among these were the near 
relations of the deceased, including his wife and daughters, 
crying and wailing the words, " Ok bajo ! oh bajo /" (Oh 
father ! oh father !), the rest of them sobbing and making 

112 



A FUNERAL 

great show of grief. The deceased having been somewhat 
of a favorite in Garbyang, the villagers turned out in 
force to render him this last tribute, and they took their 
places in the procession as it slowly wound down the cliff 
towards the river. The hearse was carried by two men, 
and each male Shoka following bore a log or bundle of 




■■ # : v 

WEEPING WOMEN UNDER WHITE CLOTH 



firewood. We reached the Kali. The body was tempo- 
rarily laid on the bank of the stream, while all the men, 
with heads uncovered, collected large stones and pieces of 
wood. With the stones a circular crematory oven, five 
feet high, six feet in diameter, with an opening on the 
side facing the wind, was erected by the water-side. The 
wife and daughters of the departed, with their hoods turned 
inside out and with covered faces, squatted down mean- 
while by the hearse, moaning and keeping a small fire 

113 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

alight. When all preparations were made, the oven being 
heaped up with logs of wood, the body was untied from 
the stretcher and lifted by two intimates of the departed 
on to the funeral pile. All valuables were removed, his 
gold ear-rings, his silver locket and bracelets ; and a large 
knife was used for some purpose or other which I could not 






SHOKA FUNERAL PILE 



quite see, except in slitting the lobes of the corpse's ears 
to remove his ear-rings more quickly. Branches of pine- 
tree were deposited on the body, and a large pot of but- 
ter was set by its side. A brass bowl of chokti (wine) was 
poured on the head, and then, in profound silence, fire 
was set to the pile. 

A few white puffs showed that it had caught fire, and 
then a dense column of black smoke rose from it, filling 
the atmosphere with a sickening smell of singed hair and 

114 



CREMATION 

burning flesh. The wind blew the smoke towards me, 
and I was enveloped in it for some moments, during 
which I could see nothing of what was going on, and I 
felt my eyes smart and my nostrils fill with the smoke 
and the stench. Gradually a tall flame, over twenty feet 
high, leaked out, consuming the body and showing me, 
as the atmosphere cleared, the Shokas down by the river 
washing their hands and faces to cleanse themselves of 
what they look upon as unclean — the contact with a corpse. 
Retracing their steps to the village, the women cried and 
moaned, carrying back to the house the clothes of the de- 
ceased and his brass bowls. 

Reaching home, it was incumbent on them to provide 
lavishly for the amusement of the dead man's soul. A lay- 
figure crudely constructed of straw and sticks was attired 
by them in the clothes of the departed, and covered over 
with Indian fabrics embroidered in gold and red and blue, 
and a turban was stuck on the head, with 2.panache made 
of a branch of fir-tree. The Kalihe was at the side of the 
image. When the fire was extinguished, a visit was paid 
to the cremation spot by the relatives of the deceased, and 
such pieces of bone as the knee-joints, elbows, and the 
larger vertebrae of the spine, usually left undestroyed by 
the flames, were collected and deposited inside the clothes 
of the image. Wheat, rice, and flour were purchased in 
large quantities and cooked to provide food for the mul- 
titude of friends who remained the guests of the family 
during the whole time of the funeral. A sheep a day is 
usually killed and eaten on such occasions, and cask after 
cask of chokti (wine), zahn (a liquor distilled from barley, 
rice, and wheat), and anag (from fermented grain of vari- 
ous kinds) are emptied by the mourning crowd. The 
women folk of the dead man mourned round the effigy, 
resting their heads on it, crying and imploring the beloved 
t.— j 115 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

one to return to life. Other rows of women, with their 
hoods turned inside out in sign of mourning, danced 
gracefully in circles round the dressed-up figure, left the 
house by one door in the basement, described an arc in 
the open, and returned by another door, while men were 
dancing a doleful dance outside the house. Beating of 




WOMEN DUSTING AND CARESSING THE LAY-FIGURE 



drums went on the whole day — languid and sad at mo- 
ments, excited, violent, and rowdy at others, according to 
the mood of the musicians and the quantity of liquor con- 
sumed by them. On each day of these proceedings, which 
lasted for three or four days, rice, baked wheat, and wine 
were placed before the effigy, until, when it was assumed 
that the soul of the dead had had a sufficiently amusing 
time, arrangements were made for its transmigration from 
the lay-figure into a live sheep or yak. If the deceased is 
a man, the animal chosen to represent him is a male ; if a 
woman, a female ; but no ceremony of this sort follows the 

116 



COSTLY FUNERAL CEREMONIES 

cremation of children under ten or twelve. In the case 
of the old man whose funeral I witnessed, a sheep was 
chosen, instead of the time-hallowed yak, the procuring of 
which from Tibet used to be a very costly business. The 
use of a sheep for these sacrifices is quite a recent innova- 
tion, brought into fashion by the greatest Shoka trader in 




WOMEN DANCING ROUND THE LAY-FIGURE 



Garbyang, called Gobaria, whose intention it was to put 
down the unnecessary waste of these ceremonies; but 
many pious Shokas, I was assured, are not satisfied with 
so small an offering as a single sheep, and slaughter two, 
or even more, on these occasions. 

After several days' dancing and gorging in-doors, a 
crowd collects, to the sound of the drums, outside the 
habitation. The lay-figure is transported from the room 
either directly outside the dwelling or to some picturesque 
spot in the woods. This is generally on the fourth day, 

117 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Bowls with food are placed in front of it, and the dancing 
is begun, to a curious sentimental strain, with a graceful 
series of contortions, by girls and women waving large 
pieces of white material. The legs keep time with the 
arms, and each leg is alternately bent at the knee until it 
nearly touches the ground. The head is inclined to the 
right or left, and throw 7 n backward or forward according 
to the beating of the drum. The circular motion in the 
dancing begins first very slowly, and the speed then in- 
creases by degrees, abruptly ending in odd and suggestive 
postures. During the intervals of dancing the relatives 
go round and round the lay-figure, dusting and fanning it 
with their white cloths. 

In the afternoon the men join the performance, and 
though their dancing has practically the same character- 
istics and motions as the women's dance, it is usually so 
much more violent that it almost partakes of the character 
of a war-dance. They hold in their right hands a sword, 
in their left a circular shield, and some of the younger men 
show great skill in the rapid manipulation of their blades, 
twirling them round their heads and behind their backs. 
There are solos, duets, and trios, in which the drummer 
or drummers take part, and when the dancing is collec- 
tive they head the procession, contorting their bodies and 
beating their drums with a stick on one side and the palm 
of the hand on the other. 

The whole crowd is constantly regaled by the family 
with corn baked with sugar, roasted Indian corn, rice, 
sweets, ghur, and miseri, when the lay-figure is supposed 
to have had its fill. While the mob eat, the ladies of the 
house return to the effigy with quick beating of the 
drums, and again double themselves up in solemn lengthy 
courtesies. Perhaps the most interesting, because the most 
accomplished, were the solo male dancers, each performer 

118 



■ 



o 
c 




> 

> 
r 

> 

n 

W 



c 



> 






DANCES AND CONTORTIONS 

displaying his own particular genius. The drummer 
beats his drum whimsically — fast and slow alternately, 
with no rule — just as it pleases his fancy, and the dancer 
always keeps time with him in all his frenzies and eccen- 
tricities, so that his movements are sometimes so slow as 




THE GOAT, WITH SOUL OF DECEASED, BEING FED 



to be barely noticeable, and at others so rapid that his 
arms and legs can no longer be distinguished. I hap- 
pened to witness no less than six funerals simultaneously 
in Garbyang, and a collective war-dance of as many as 
three hundred men. It went on during a whole day and 
the greater part of the following night, torches and a big 
bonfire burning in order to light up the scene. 

Eventually, amid firing of guns, howls, yells, and deaf- 
ening hissing of the assembled crowd, the animal to be 

119 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

sacrificed is dragged before the lay-figure. Long colored 
ribbons are tied round its horns, and the ends left hang- 
ing by the side of its head. Sandal-wood is burned under 
the beast's nostrils, which is supposed to induce the soul 
of the departed to enter and establish itself in the animal. 
The clothes, the turban, the shield, the jewelry, are torn 




GOAT, WITH SOUL AND CLOTHES OF DECEASED 



from the figure's back and piled on to the goat, which is 
now the impersonation of the deceased. It is fed until it 
can hold no more, wine and liquor being poured down its 
throat, and large dishes of all possible delicacies being 
placed before it. The women relatives devote to it their 
tenderest affection, and shed tears over it in the con- 
viction that it holds the spirit of their lost protector. 
Stuffed with food and stupefied by the alcohol, the beast 
submits, emotionless and immovable, to the wild caresses, 

1 20 




YAK DRIVEN OVER PRECIPICE 



HOW THE SOUL IS DISPOSED OF 

prayers, and salaams showered on it. Again the hissing, 
whistling, and yelling begin, and a rush is made for the 
animal, which is seized by the horns, the neck, the tail, 
wherever it can be caught hold of, and dragged, pushed, 
beaten, and at last chased out of the village, but not until 



<JII 





SENDING THE GOAT AWAY FROM THE VILLAGE 



after the clothes, shield, sword, turban, and ornaments 
have been torn from its back. It is eventually handed 
over to the Hunyas or Jumlis or Humlis, who on these 
occasions benefit by the simplicity and superstition of the 
Shokas, and who throw it down, rip the body open, and 
pull out the heart, or twist it in the inside with a jerk that 
kills instantly. This method applies to sheep or goat. 
When a yak is sacrificed, very much the same rites take 



121 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

place up to the moment when the lay-figure is deprived 
of its clothing and the yak invested with it. It is similar- 
ly beaten and dragged about, and left on the top of some 
mountain, the crowd calling after it, " Go ! go! We have 
feasted, feted, and fed you. We have done all in our 
power for your welfare. We cannot do more. Go now." 





TEARING OUT THE HEART OF THE GOAT 

With this the yak, with the soul that has been driven into 
it, is left to its own devices, and as soon as the Shokas 
have departed is driven by the Tibetans over a precipice, 
it being against their faith to draw blood from a yak. In 
the fatal leap the animal is smashed to pieces, and the Tib- 
etans, collecting the remains, gorge themselves with the 
prized meat of their cherished yak. 

As a mark of reverence the Shoka men remove their 
caps not only while following the corpse to cremation, 

122 



SACRED OFFERINGS 

but also during the feasting, the male relatives themselves 
even shaving their heads. This practice is occasionally 
extended to the whole male community in the case of 
death of a particularly respected villager. The women 
remove their jewelry, and, as already noted, turn their 
hoods inside out. 

When all is over, odd articles, such as brass bowls or 
a gun or a shield or sword, are placed in a sacred cave. 
These caves are high up on the mountain-side, and are 
said to be full of sacred offerings. 






CHAPTER XVIII 



TOUCHING SHOKA FAREWELL— FEELINGS CURIOUSLY EXPRESSED — SOBS 
AND TEARS — THE START — A FUNERAL PROCESSION — DISTRESSED 
FATHER AND MOTHER — KACHI AND DOLA THE WORSE FOR DRINK — 
ANXIOUS MOMENTS — THE BRIDGE DESTROYED 



The day of my departure came. It was after dark. 
Outside my dwelling a crow T d of Shokas had assembled. 

I bade farewell to 
my host Zeheram 
and to his wife 
and children, who 
with tears in their 
eyes wished me 
God-speed. 

" Salaam, sahib, 
salaam !" repeated 
Zeheram, sobbing 
and bringing his 
hand respectfully 
to his forehead. 
"You know, sahib, 
that a horse goes to a horse, a tiger to a tiger, a yak 
to a yak, and a man to a man. A man's house is an- 
other man's house, no matter whether the color of their 
skins differs or not. Therefore I thank Heaven that you 
have accepted shelter under my humble roof. You must 
have been uncomfortable, for all you sahibs are rich and 
accustomed to luxury. I am only a trader and a cul- 
tivator. I am poor, but I possess a heart. You, unlike 

124 




KACHI AND HIS RELATIONS 



A TOUCHING FAREWELL 

other sahibs, have always spoken kindly to me and to all 
of us Shokas. We feel that you are our brother. You 
have given us presents, but we needed them not. The 
only present we wish for is that, when you reach the end 
of your perilous journey, you will send us a message that 
you are well. We will all pray day and night for you. 
Our hearts are sore at your leaving us." 




THE PATAN SUMMONING MY COOLIES FROM THE ROOF OF HIS HOUSE 

This from the rough old boy, whom I had got really to 
like, was touching, and I told him I hoped I might some 
day be able to repay him for his kindness. When I de- 
scended the steps there was quite a crowd in the yard. 
Ev^ry one wished to bid me farewell. The men took 
my right hand in both theirs and brought it up to their 
foreheads, muttering words of grief at my leaving. The 
women gently caressed my face and bade me " Niku 
tza" (Go well — Farewell). This was the Shoka fash- 
ion of taking leave of friends departing for distant 
lands. 

125 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Led by the hand by a really grieving company, I moved 
towards the narrow, steep descent to the Chongur bridge, 
cut into the slope of the high cliffs of clay. On the way 
I called at Kachi's house, but he had gone ahead. A more 
mournful procession could not be imagined. The faint 
rays of a new moon gave an added melancholy to the 
scene, and that peculiarly impressive sound of sad steps, 
if I may thus express the pathetic cadence of people's gait 
when afflicted, made me feel as if I w r ere attending my own 
funeral. I begged them to return to their homes, and one 
after the other they came to embrace my feet and to hold 
my fingers. Then, hiding their faces in the palms of 
their hands, they one by one made their way up the gray 
track cut into the lofty cliff, and, like phantoms, gradually 
becoming smaller and smaller, vanished in the distance. 
Still some twenty or thirty insisted on escorting me down 
to the stream. Farther on I came upon the excited figure . 
of an old woman tearing her hair and crying pitifully. 
She threw herself at my feet, imploring me to take care 
of her son. It was Kachi's distressed mother. I com- 
forted her as best I could, and also the desolate father 
(good old Junia), who was there with tears streaming down 
his cheeks, to bid me an affectionate farewell. 

" Where is your son ?" 

" You will find him a little farther dow r n, sahib." 

I did — together with four other people lying on the 
ground all in a heap. One of them, who tried to stand up, 
called out, " Kachi, get up, here is the sahib," and then 
collapsed again on the top of the others. Neither Kachi 
nor the others gave any sign of life, and when I spoke to 
them I discovered that they were in a state of hopeless 
intoxication. 

By the side of Kachi was Dola, his uncle, supposed to 
be employed by me in the quadruple capacity of inter- 

126 



PROGESS UNDER DIFFICULTIES 

preter, carrier, Kachi's valet and cook, in which latter art, 
after Shoka fashion, he was quite an adept, his fame hav- 
ing spread all over Bias. He was, therefore, a treasure 
not lightly to be abandoned, and yet, now that I wanted 
to act quickly and decisively, I had to weigh whether I 
should proceed with two of the most important charac- 
ters in my employ disabled. Should I, hampered by these 
semi-corpses, be able to pass unseen the watchful Tibetan 
guard at the Chongur bridge, only a few hundred yards 
farther on ? I decided to try. Seizing one on each side 
under their armpits, I supported them and kept them 
erect. It was no easy job, and, I felt our speed increase 
at every step as I moved with my staggering mates down 
the steep and slippery track. We reached the bottom of 
the hill at a breakneck rate, and as the track was narrow 
along the water's edge, it was a wonder that we did not 
all three of us land in the river. As it was, in coming sud- 
denly to a stop, my two men utterly collapsed again, and 
I was so exhausted that I had to sit down and rest. 

Kachi Ram had a lucid interval. He gazed round and 
saw me for the first time that night. 

" Sahib, I am drunk !" he exclaimed, with long pauses 
between each word. 

" That is quite true," said I. 

u We Shokas have this bad habit," he continued. "I 
had to drink chokti with all my relations and friends 
prior to leaving for this long journey. They would have 
been offended if I had not divided with each a cup of 
wine. I now 7 see everything go round. Please put my 
head into cold water. Oh! the moon is jumping about, 
and is now under my feet !" 

I complied with his request, and gave both his head 
and Dola's a good ducking in the freezing Kali River. 

This had the unfortunate effect of sending them to 
ii 127 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

sleep so soundly that I thought they would never wake 
again. Some of the sober Shokas offered to carry the 
two helpless men on their backs. We were wasting val- 
uable time, and the sky was getting clouded. When the 
moon had disappeared behind the high mountain, I went 
ahead to reconnoitre. All was darkness but for the 
glimmer of a brilliant star here and there in the sky. I 




THE CHONGUR BRIDGE PREVIOUS TO BEING DESTROYED 



crawled to the bridge and listened. Not a sound, not a 
light on the opposite bank. All was silence — that dead 
silence of nature and human life asleep. I stopped on 
the bridge. This structure spans the river, a huge 
boulder in the centre of the stream serving as a pillar, 
and forms, in fact, two separate bridges joined on the op- 
posite sides of this central bowlder. I walked cautiously 
across the first portion, stood to listen again on the rock 

128 



RETURN TO GARBYANG 

dividing the foaming waters, and tried to penetrate the 
obscurity. There was not a soul to be seen nor a sound 
to be heard. I went over the rock and proceeded tow- 
ards the second half of the bridge, when I found to my 
horror that this second half of the bridge had been cut 
down. The entire section had collapsed, and with the 
exception of a long beam still swinging to and fro with 
one end in the turbid stream, and a plank or two, the 
whole material had been washed away. 

I returned to my men. 

" We must continue our way on this side of the river," 
I whispered to them. " The Tibetans have destroyed the 
bridge.'' 

" The track is traced," they replied, " but it is impassa- 
ble at night." 

" Never mind; we must go. Come." And I headed 
the silent procession. 

We went about a mile. Yet another dilemma. Kachi 
and Dola were still fast asleep. The others, tired and 
worn out with the fatigue of carrying them, wished to 
turn back. The sky was now clouded all over and rain 
was coming on. 

I felt that it was useless to persist. Having seen the 
two drunken creatures laid flat under a shed and well 
covered with blankets, I therefore returned to Garbyang, 
with the intention of making a fresh start shortly before 
sunrise, when the drunkards would probably be fit to 
walk by themselves. 



CHAPTER XIX 

A DANGEROUS TRACK — PERILOUS PASSAGE — A CURIOUS BRIDGE OVER 
A PRECIPICE — PATHETIC SHOKA CUSTOM— SMALL MISADVENTURES — 
A GRAND RECEPTION— TEA FOR ALL TASTES 

At 4 a.m., before the sun rose, I made a fresh and 
hurried start. I proceeded quickly to the spot where I 
had left the two drunken men. They had gone ahead. 

Indeed, the track was a bad and dangerous one, over 
hanging precipices, and hardly wide enough to give 
standing room upon it. We came to a spot where the 
narrow path stopped. There was before us a perpendic- 
ular rock descending straight as a wall to the Kali River. 
The corrosive action of dripping water and melting 
snow, of which last there seemed to be a thick layer 
higher above on the summit of the cliff, had worn the 
face of the rock quite smooth. The distance across this 
vertical, wall-like ravine was not more than forty or fifty 
feet. On the other side of it the narrow track began 
again. 

Owing to this and other dangerous places, this route 
is but very seldom used by the natives or by any one 
else. The road generally taken is on the opposite side 
of the Kali River, in Nepal territory. Nevertheless, a 
few Shokas possess bits of land on this bank of the 
stream, and it was by them that, in order to surmount 
the obstacle before which I now stood, the following ex- 
pedient was devised. 

By letting down a man from above with ropes they 

130 



<*, 



:, 



A PERILOUS PASSAGE 



A DANGEROUS PASSAGE 

succeeded in making two rows of small hollows in the 
rock, along two parallel horizontal lines, the higher of 
which was about six feet or so above the lower. The 
holes were dug at intervals of three or four feet along 
each line, the upper ones to be caught on by one's 
hands, the lower ones to support one's feet, and none of 
the cavities are deeper than a few inches. 

The passage seemed dangerous at any time, and impos- 
sible just then, because the drizzling rain which had set 
in had made the rock as slippery as glass. I realized that 
everything must be risked to get on. With an affected 
air of assurance I therefore took off my shoes and went 
ahead. 

I could not look about me, for I clung with my body 
to the wall, feeling my way with my toes and fingers. 
The cavities were, as a matter of fact, so shallow that 
progress was slow and troublesome. When the toes of 
the right foot seemed firmly planted in a receptacle, the 
right arm was made to slide along the rock until the 
fingers had obtained a firm grip in the cavity directly 
above the one in which the toes were. Then the entire 
body had to be shifted from left to right, bringing the 
left foot and hand close to the right extremities and sus- 
pending one's weight on the former, so as to render the 
right foot and arm ready to make the next move forward, 
and so on, till I reached the other side and alighted upon 
the narrow track, which was itself only five or six inches 
wide. Chanden Sing, having tied his shoes and mine 
over his shoulders, proceeded barefooted on the same 
hazardous crossing. With none of the excitement of 
personal danger, the moments of apprehension w T hile 
he groped his way with toes and fingers, half par- 
alyzed with cold and fear, were to me worse even than 
those of my own passage. But he, too, got across safe 

131 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

and sound. After that the trail was comparatively 
easy. 

It was necessary now to look out for signs of the two 
men, Kachi and Dola, w r ho had preceded us. I was glad 
to find a little farther on fresh footmarks, undoubtedly 
those of the two Shokas. The track still ascended and 
descended nearly all along precipitous cliffs, and was 
everywhere dangerously narrow 7 , with here and there bits 
on shaky crow-bars. At one spot the rugged formation 
of the cliff forced one suddenly to ascend to its very top 
and cross (on all-fours) a rude kind of bridge made of 
branches of trees spanned, not horizontally, but at an 
angle of sixty degrees over a precipice of several hundred 
feet. I found a white thread of wool laid over this prim- 
itive structure, in accordance with the custom of the 
Shokas at the death of relatives or friends away from 
their native village. The soul is supposed to migrate 
during the dark hours of the night and to return to the 
birthplace of the deceased, these white threads showing 
the way at dangerous places on the road. 

Having lost the track more than once, we found our- 
selves down at the edge of the Kali and compelled to 
climb up some three hundred feet over sand and rolling 
stones to regain the path. 

We arrived at last at Nabi. There I found my loads 
safe and sound, having got there by the better track on 
the Nepalese side previously to the Chongur bridge be- 
ing destroyed by the Tibetans ; also Kachi and Dola, who 
had got over and recovered from their drink. To make 
up, perhaps, for their past misbehavior, and probably to 
make me overlook or forget it, they seemed to have in- 
duced the natives to welcome me with particular cordial- 
ity. I was invited by them, with much show of hospital- 
ity, to spend the night in the village. 

132 



HOSPITABLE NATIVES 



I was led with some ceremony to a primitive sort of 
ladder with very roughly carved steps, and shoved, with 
help from above and below, on to a flat mud roof. Here 
a tent had been pitched, the floor of which was covered 
with mats and rugs for me to rest on. I no sooner laid 
myself down than a string of men, women, and children 
arrived, carrying bowls with a particularly sumptuous 
meal of rice, dhal, meat, Balah (or boiled buckwheat 
leaves), curd, milk, broiled corn with sugar, chapatis, shale, 
sweets, native wine and liquor. 

During the meal, tea was served in all sorts of fashions. 
There was Chinese tea and Indian tea, tea boiled with 
sugar and tea without it, tea with milk, and tea with 
butter and salt in it, pale tea and dark tea, sweet tea and 
bitter tea — in fact, tea until I, devoted as I am to it, 
wished that no tea-leaf had ever been picked and stewed 
in boiling water. 



CHAPTER XX 

DR. WILSON JOINS MY EXPEDITION FOR A FEW MARCHES — WHAT MIS- 
DEEDS A PHOTOGRAPHIC CAMERA CAN DO— WEIGHING, DIVIDING, AND 
PACKING PROVISIONS — TWO EXTRA MEN WANTED — THE LAST FRIEND- 
LY FACES 

I was examining a young woman who had badly in- 
jured and partly fractured a central vertebra of the spine, 
when Dr. Wilson turned up and gave the poor wretch the 
little relief possible in her condition, for which she had 
hoped in vain from me. He was welcome to me for many 
reasons besides the pleasure of being in his company. 
He had offered to join my expedition for a few marches 
into Tibet, and I was glad indeed to have him with me. 
We pushed on as soon as possible over the road between 
Nabi and Kuti, which I have already described. Our 
journey was quite uneventful, and the snow-bridges and 
snow-fields, so troublesome when I had first taken this 
road, had melted and altogether disappeared. Even at 
Nabi little happened. But I must just mention the fol- 
lowing incident as illustrative of the curious suspicion and 
dislike I found everywhere of the photographic apparatus 
I carried with me. 

I was on the point of leaving the place when a hand- 
some Tibetan woman, whom I had not previously noticed, 
accosted me with hysterical sobs — inarticulate, but con- 
veying a very clear impression of suffering. 

" You have killed my child, and now you will kill my 
husband," she complained, when she was able to talk ; and 
I then discovered that I had on my previous visit to Nabi 

134 



MY CAMERA'S RESPONSIBILITIES 

taken a snap-shot of a child perched on the top of a very 
heavy load that happened to be carried on the woman's 
back through my camp, and that when she complained I 
had appeased her, in the usual way, with a coin. She had 
conveyed her load to Kuti, and had slipped, on her way 
back with her child, at a spot not far from where I had 
had my slide, but, less fortunate than myself, had rolled 




THE PHOTOGRAPH THAT CAUSED THE CHILD'S DEATH 

right into the foaming stream. She managed to cling to 
the rock and was eventually saved, but the infant was 
washed from rock to rock by the current, and disappeared 
under a snow tunnel. 

" Oh, sahib!" cried the woman, "if you had not before 
we started looked at us through the eyes (the twin lenses) 
of your black box (the photographic camera), I should not 
have lost my baby." 

" And how about your husband ?" 

" Oh, you will kill him too." 

135 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

"But I don't know your husband. Anyhow, I promise 
not to look at him with ' the eyes of the black box.' ' 

" It is not that, sahib, but he is going with you to 
Tibet. He is carrying one of your loads. You will all 
be killed." 

She pointed him out to me — one of the strongest 
among the men I had, and the most anxious to accom- 
pany me. He was too good to lose, and I was certainly 
unwilling to renounce my claim to him on account of his 
good woman's tears. So I consoled her as best I could; 
promised to take good care of him, and under no circum- 
stances to photograph him. 

At Kuti, Dr. Wilson and I were busy for several hours 
weighing, dividing, and packing in equal loads the pro- 
visions I had purchased — fourteen munds in all (i 120 lbs.) 
of flour, rice, red sugar {gkur), salt, red pepper (32 lbs.), 
Dhal, miseri (lump sugar), ghi (butter), and a large quan- 
tity of satoo (oatmeal), and broiled corn. There were, in 
addition, the preserved and tinned provisions which I had 
brought with me from London. 

To give my carriers no cause for complaint, I allowed 
them to choose their own shoes, blankets, etc., and I did 
all in my power to humor them, because the loads threat- 
ened to be excessively heavy. In fact, I found that, even 
after dispensing with everything but what was absolutely 
essential, there was still ample to carry for at least two 
extra men. Every available Shoka had joined the party, 
and no inducement that I could offer brought me more 
volunteers. I was very unwilling to delay, and I was on 
the point of subdividing among the men I already had 
the two extra loads, when two stray shepherds turned up, 
half-famished and naked, with long, unkempt heads of 
hair, and only a coral necklace and a silver bangle by way 
of clothing. I quickly secured them, and although one was 

136 



READY TO START 

really only a boy, I decided to trust to luck and take Dr. 
Wilson's assurance that he looked tough enough and 
would be useful. 

This brought my little force up to thirty strong, and 
now I was ready to start. 




SHOKA HUTS 



CHAPTER XXI 

THE KUTI CASTLE — UNDER WAY — OUR FIRST DISASTER— A CHEERFUL 
AND A SULKY COOLIE — MANSING — A BRIGAND— A STRANGE MEDLEY 
OF FOLLOWERS— A CHARACTER— TAILORING— FIELDS OF STONES — 
TROUBLESOME RIVERS — THE JOLINKAN OR LEBUNG PASS— SENSE OF 
HUMOR — PLEASED WITH SMALL COMFORTS 

Before leaving Kuti, I went to see the curious and an- 
cient castle perched on a small hill about three hundred 
yards south of the village. It is now in ruins, with the 
exception of a quadrangular tower called by the natives 
the Kuti Ker, but the foundations of the whole structure 



Y 



grw 



tfrnii; 



*ttntni||i — 



J 



' 3 




PLAN OF KUTI CASTLE 

I. Piles of stones. 2. Steps. 3. Outer wall. 4. Tower. 5. Blacksmith's house. 

6. Windows. 

can still be plainly seen. I made a plan, which is here repro- 
duced, as it may be of archaeological interest. The natives 
could give me no information regarding it, except that it 
was once a king's palace strongly fortified. A small house 
of several rooms by the side of the tower is said to have 
been the blacksmith's shop in which the arrow-heads and 

138 



A CATASTROPHE 

swords for the king's soldiers were made. The tower is 
four yards square at its base, and built of stone. Judging 
by its shape and construction, and the curious windows, 
I am inclined to attribute this castle to Tibetan workman- 
ship, for identical towers are seen in Tibet, even at Takla- 
kot. The windows, or rather slits, on each floor of the 
tower were six inches square ; those in the blacksmith's 
house were considerably larger. There were outer walls 
for the defence of the fort at places where the castle 
would have been most accessible. Quantities of stones 
piled up in heaps probably served as ammunition for the 
defenders of the fortress in centuries gone by. 

When I returned to camp all was ready, and after end- 
less trouble with some of my men, who were already un- 
certain as to whether they would accompany me on my 
journey or not, I eventually got under way in the after- 
noon. The Kuti village is the highest in Bias, being sit- 
uated at an elevation of 12,920 feet. 

The track was now comparatively free from snow and 
ice except here and there, where we had to cross exten- 
sive slopes covered w r ith snow. On one of these we had 
our first disaster. A coolie fell w 7 ho carried in his hand 
a large pot containing butter. He fortunately did not 
slide far down, but we had the bitter disappointment 
of seeing our precious pot roll into the water and dis- 
appear forever. We camped at an elevation of 13,050 
feet. Late in the evening, as my men were collecting 
wood to keep up a huge fire round which we sat, my two 
coolies, who had remained at Kuti with instructions to 
follow, arrived with their respective loads. They were 
two strange characters. The one with a coral necklace 
was mournful and sulky, the other lively and talkative. 
They professed to be by caste Rajiputs. 

" You see," exclaimed the cheerful coolie, " I am small, 

139 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

but I fear nothing. When we cross into Tibet I shall go 
ahead with a pointed stick and clear all the Tibetans away. 
I am not afraid of them. I am ready to fight the whole 
world." 

Knowing the value of this sort of talk on the part of 
natives, I shut him up and sent him away to fetch wood. 




MANSING, THE LEPER, SHOWING HIS HANDS 



The sulky fellow interested me more. He seldom uttered 
a word, and when he did he never spoke pleasantly; he 
was apparently immersed in deep thought, from which it 
seemed a great effort to draw his mind away. He looked 
painfully ill. Motionless and speechless, he would stare 
at a fixed point as if in a trance. His features were pe- 
culiarly refined and regular, but his skin had that ghastly, 
shiny, whitish tinge so peculiar to lepers. I waited for an 
opportunity to examine his hands, on which he sat to keep 

140 



MANSING AND THE BRIGAND 

them warm. It is there, in the contracted or dropping-off 
fingers, that one finds the first certain symptoms of that 
most terrible of all diseases, leprosy. I asked the man 
to come and sit nearer the blazing fire. He came and 
stretched out his open palms towards the flickering flame. 
Alas ! my suspicions were but too correct. His fingers, 
distorted and contracted, with the skin sore at the joints, 
were sad and certain proof. I examined his feet and 
found the same symptoms there also. 

" What is your name ?" I inquired of him. 

" Mansing," he said, dryly, becoming immediately again 
absorbed in one of his reveries. 

The crackling fire was dying down when a stalwart 
Tibetan suddenly appeared, bent low under the heavy 
weight of a huge tree-trunk he w r as carrying on his back. 
He approached and threw the wood on the fire. 

Here was another character! As strong as an ox, this 
servant of mine had queer antecedents. He was at one 
time a well-known bandit in the neighborhood of Lhassa. 
He was said to have taken many lives, and, finding his 
own in danger in his country, had come to settle on 
British territory, marrying different wives, whom he con- 
stantly beat and in turn banished from under his roof. 
It was owing to his latest family squabble that he came 
in my employ ; his abnormal strength, valuable for carry- 
ing loads, was to me his only recommendation. In camp 
he went by the name of Daku, " the brigand." 

In looking round to inspect my other followers, with 
whom I had hardly yet got acquainted, I was amused and 
interested at the strange medley of creatures forming my 
band. There were Humlis and Jumlis, with their luxuri- 
ant black hair tied into small tresses and a topknot over 
the head, like the Coreans. There were Tibetans, Shokas 
of Bias, Rongbas, Nepalese, Rajiputs, and Totolas, also 
12 141 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

a Brahmin, two native Christians, and a Johari. Then 
Dr. Wilson. What a collection! What a chaos of lan- 
guages and dialects ! 

An amusing feature of this odd crowd was that each 
particular caste looked down upon all the others. This 
from the very beginning occasioned separation during 
meal-time, and the camp was lively with as many burning 
fires in as many sheltered spots as there were castes of 
men following me. I was glad of this, as it seemed a sort 
of guarantee that they would never all join together to 
conspire against me. 

Poor Mansing, the leper, was shivering with cold. He 
had been unable to purchase himself a blanket and shoes 
at Kuti. He had spent the money on tobacco instead. 
Dr. Wilson and I took pity upon him. The long evening 
was still before us, so I got out the cloth I had pur- 
chased at Kuti, and with scissors and needle we began to 
cut and sew a new set of garments for the poor wretch. 
The Doctor did the cutting and I the sewing. I cannot 
boast that a professional tailor would not have turned out 
a better fit, but for all general purposes the newly made 
clothes answered well enough. There was only one incon- 
venience in the single-breasted jacket. I had no buttons, 
and was therefore compelled to sew the coat on the man 
himself. It thus remained a fixture, and not only looked 
all right, but — which was our chief object — kept him warm. 

We left camp at 5.30 the following morning. High 
mountains rose on either side of us, and we followed the 
Kuti River flowing here from west to east. At an eleva- 
tion of 13,980 feet we crossed the Bitroguare River. On 
the other side of the Kuti River were high perpendicular 
cliffs of a vividly red-colored rock with blue horizontal 
stratifications, and towering over them a succession of 
sharply pointed peaks. 

142 







* 
C 







A BAD CROSSING 

The action of ice on the rock was noticeable every- 
where. As we went farther we came upon extensive fields 
of stones and boulders brought down from the higher 
peaks by the ice, and in some places we found actual mo- 
raines. To our left stood a gigantic wall of stone like a 
natural impregnable fortress. Travelling in a direction 
of 320° (b. m.), and at elevations of 13,900 feet, 14,200 feet, 
1 4,300 feet, we waded through three tributaries of the Kuti; 
then we came to a foaming, rapid, and deep river, w T hich we 
had great difficulty in crossing. It was getting towards 
the middle of the day, and the stream, fed by the snows 
melting under the hot sun, was rising from moment to 
moment. Two of my coolies, whom I first sent in, reached 
the middle, where the water came up to their chins. They 
lost their footing and were temporarily helpless, and in 
some danger of being swamped, the loads which they car- 
ried on their heads being partly spoiled when we suc- 
ceeded in recovering them. The other men got fright- 
ened by the time they were ready to cross. The river 
had risen so high that it was impossible to get to the 
other side except by swimming, and this was out of the 
question, on account of the loads. We therefore had to 
follow the stream upward for about a mile, when fortu- 
nately we found a somewhat dangerous yet passable 
snow bridge, over which the remainder of my men and 
goods effected a crossing in safety. We returned to our 
course on the Kuti, still passing between high, rugged 
mountains along an undulating plain averaging about 400 
yards wide. Though at comparatively high elevations, 
there were large patches of brightly colored flowers — red, 
violet, white, and vivid yellow — which gave to the land- 
scape a picturesque and constantly changing effect. 

On reaching a small pass, 14,750 feet, the path branched 
to Darma by the Jolinkan towards bearings 260°, and over 

H3 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the Lebung Pass. It is really only a goat track, exceed- 
ingly difficult and fatiguing, except in the month of 
August, when there is only a small quantity of snow, and 
it leads to the Dholi River about half a mile south of 
Khumling. 

The Jolinkan River, rising from the snow-field to the , 
east of the Lebung or Jolinkan Pass, had now to be 




THE JOLINKAN OR LEBUNG PASS 

crossed. The stalwart dacoit, ever readv to make himself 
useful, conveyed his load across, and, lifting me like a 
feather on to his back, saved me from plunging higher 
than my waist into the bitterly cold water, whereas he 
was covered up to his neck. The course of the Kuti 
turns now to 330° (b. m.). Going up and down small 
barren hills, round the foot of high mountains, we at- 
tained an altitude of 15,000 feet. Here, to the left of the 
track, and eighty feet above it, is a small and beautiful 

144 



SOAKED AND FROZEN 

lake, 500 yards long and 400 wide. Its waters, in which 
the high snowy peaks round it are reflected as in a silver 
mirror, find an outlet in a short but most precipitous 
river flowing with tremendous force into the Kuti. Soon 
after leaving this lake we came upon another small sheet 
of water, near which were thirteen peculiar piles or 
columns of stones, each one having been erected by the 
first Tibetan or Shoka who crossed the pass during the 
summer. A similar erection could also be seen perched 
on a large rock jutting out from the water of the larger 
lake. Though the sun was fast going down behind the 
mountains to the west, we pressed on, trying to make as 
much headway as we could towards the perpetual snows. 
We still travelled over undulating ground, and the march- 
ing was not heavy or difficult, save for the freezingly cold 
and very rapid streams we had to wade through. It was 
all we could do to get warm again after having been im- 
mersed in one, and before we had ceased shivering we 
had to wade through the next, and yet the next, so that 
one's chilliness increased, and the constant discomfort of 
cold became very trying. Much discontent prevailed 
among my carriers over the very long march, as their feet 
were numbed with cold. They nearly mutinied when I 
would not let them stop at a camp they had selected, but 
ordered them to proceed farther. A mile and a half from 
the point they had favored, we came upon a large, flat 
basin of stones and gravel, about half a mile wide and 
three-quarters of a mile long, which had the appearance 
of having formerly been a lake. It was surrounded by 
high snowy peaks, and its bed lay at an altitude of 15,400 
feet. It seemed as if the immense quantity of stones and 
pebbles carried by the river feeding it had raised its 
bed until it had caused the water to flow into the Kuti. 
When I saw it, the river formed an extensive delta 

H5 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

with as many as twelve arms, joining again within the 
basin into one single stream before throwing itself into 
the Kuti. Naturally we selected the wider expanse of 
water to ford, assuming that it would be shallower than 
the narrow ones. Once more that day I took off my 
lower garments and entered the cold water. It came 
direct from the snows, and its temperature was slightly 
above freezing-point. The sun had gone down, and there 
was a piercing wind. My feet, as I went in and out of 
the numerous branches of the stream, became so cold 
that I could hardly stand for the stinging pain; moreover, 
treading on sharp-edged stones under the water and 
knocking my frozen toes against them was at first very 
painful, but after a time they got so frozen that, though 
at each step the soles of my feet and toes were cut and 
bruised, I suffered no actual pain until after crossing five 
or six arms of the delta. Unable to balance myself any 
longer, I struggled as best I could out of the water and 
rubbed my feet violently, until slowly, and with intense 
pain, circulation was restored. 

It is curious how a little sense of humor helps on such 
occasions. To an onlooker not suffering as we were, the 
sight of our party crossing that dreadful delta would have 
been amusing. The expression of disgust on all my 
men's faces, not to speak of my own, could not help caus- 
ing merriment. We carried our foot-gear on our shoul- 
ders ; we struggled, stumbled, and splashed in the green- 
ish water. Now one, then another, fell helpless through 
frost-bite on some island or other, until we were all dis- 
abled, and still only half-way through. In spite of our 
condition, worn out as we were, the soles and sides of 
our feet badly cut and bleeding, my men, so sulky at 
having been firmly balked in their wishes, became quite 
good - natured and cheerful when I chaffed them over 

146 



WELL-EARNED COMFORT 

their present troubles, and they saw that I was in the 
same plight. After endless rubbing, we restored a certain 
amount of circulation to our lower limbs, and proceeded 
to cross the next six arms of the delta. When, after an 
hour or longer of suffering, we were at last able to put on 
our foot-gear, we felt the happiness which comes from the 
knowledge of difficulties overcome. Never can I forget 
the great joy arising from what may seem a small com- 
fort — a warm pair of socks I 

We pitched our tents in a sheltered narrow valley to 
the northwest of the large basin. Altitude, 15,400 feet. 
Thermometer — minimum, 24 ; maximum, 51 . 



CHAPTER XXII 

WANT OF FUEL — COOKING UNDER DIFFICULTY — MANSING LOST AND 
FOUND — SAVED FROM SUMMARY JUSTICE — TIBETAN VISITORS — WE 
PURCHASE SHEEP — THE SNOW-LINE — COLD STREAMS — THE PETRIFIED 
CHAPATI AND HUMAN HAND 

One of the main drawbacks of travelling at these great 
altitudes was the want of vegetable fuel. There was not 
a tree, not a shrub to be seen near our camp. Nature 
wore her most desolate and barren look. Failing wood, 
my men dispersed to collect and bring in the dry dung 
of yak, pony, and sheep to serve as fuel. Kindling 
this was no easy matter; box after box of matches was 
quickly used, and our collective lung power severely 
drawn upon blowing the unwilling sparks into a flame 
a few inches high. Upon this meagre fire we attempt- 
ed to cook our food and boil water (a trying process 
at such an altitude). Water, it is well known, boils at 
lower temperatures the higher you go. The cuisine that 
night was not of the usual excellence, and did but lit- 
tle credit to the cook. We had to eat everything half 
cooked, or, to be accurate, almost altogether uncooked. 
The night was a bitterly cold one, with a heavy fall of 
snow. When we rose in the morning it lay quite two 
feet deep around us, and the glare was painful to the 
eyes. I mustered my men. Mansing was missing. He 
had not arrived the previous night, and there was no 
sign of the man I had sent in search of him. I was anx- 
ious not only from my personal interest in his load (the 
fellow carried a load of flour, salt, pepper, and five pounds 

148 





CAMPING IN SNOW 



MANSING LOST AND FOUND 

of butter), but I was afraid that the poor leper might him- 
self have been washed away in one of the dangerous 
streams. Even if this fear were groundless, he must, I 
felt, have suffered terribly from the cold, with no shelter 
and no fire. Bijesing, who had gone in search of him, had 
eaten some food before starting, and had taken blankets 
with him in case he could not return to camp during the 
night. 

It was long after sunrise when, with the aid of my tele- 
scope, I discovered the two men coming towards us. They 
arrived an hour or so later. Mansing had been found 
sound asleep, several miles back, lying by the side of the 
empty butter-pot, the contents of which he had devoured. 
The discovery of this misdeed caused the greatest indigna- 
tion in camp, for fatty matter and butter were much cher- 
ished by the natives, as being warmth-producing, when 
going over these cold passes. He was nearly the victim 
of summary justice at the hands of my angry men, and it 
was only with trouble that I rescued him from their 
clutches. To prevent a recurrence of the offence, I ordered 
the culprit to carry in future a heavy load of photographic 
plates and instruments, which I thought would not prove 
quite so appetizing. 

Before starting I took my usual bath in the cold stream 
and rubbed myself all over with snow. I found this very 
invigorating, and when the reaction came I experienced 
a delightful glow of warmth, notwithstanding the thin 
clothes I was wearing. 

While we were camping, a flock of some six hundred 
sheep appeared, and with them some Tibetans. As I 
had put up my Tibetan tent, they made for it, expecting 
to find some of their own countrymen, and their embar- 
rassment was amusing when they found themselves face 
to face with Dr. Wilson and myself. Hurriedly removing 

149 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

their fur caps, they laid them upon the ground and made 
a comical jerky courtesy, as if their heads and knees moved 
by means of a spring. They put out their tongues full 
length and kept them so until I made signs that they 
could draw them back, as I wanted them to answer some 
questions. This unexpected meeting with us frightened 
them greatly ; they were trembling all over with fear, and 
after getting as much information out of them as they 
seemed to possess I took advantage of the opportunity 
to buy some of their fattest sheep. When the money was 
paid there was a further display of furred tongues, and 
more grand salaams ere they departed, while all hands on 
our side were busy trying to prevent our newly purchased 
animals from rejoining the flock moving away from us. 
On our next march these animals proved a great trouble, 
and we had to drag them the greater part of the way. 
Kachi, who had been intrusted with a very recalcitrant 
and strong beast, which I had specially promised my men 
for their dinner if they made a long march that day, found 
himself discomfited when he saw that the sheep had freed 
its head from the cord with which he was dragging it, and 
was cantering away full speed in the opposite direction. 
Now it is well known that at considerable altitudes run- 
ning is a very painful operation for human beings, the 
rarefied air making the effect of such exertion almost suf- 
focating. Yet Kachi, having overcome his first surprise, 
was soon chasing the escaped beast, and, urged by the 
cheers and shouts of my other men, who seemed much 
concerned over this new 7 calamity, he succeeded, after an 
exciting chase, in capturing it by its tail, a feat easier to 
describe than to accomplish, for Tibetan sheep have very 
short, stumpy tails. Kachi fell to the ground exhaust- 
ed, but he held fast with both hands to his capture, and 
eventually the animal was secured with ropes. This was 

150 



THE SNOW-LINE 

the sort of minor trouble with which we had to contend 
at almost every turn during our journey, and, although 
it may appear trivial, it was exasperating enough at the 
time. 

On fairly undulating ground we gradually rose to a pass 
15,580 feet high; then traversing a wide, flat land, we fol- 
lowed the Kuti River with its high snowy mountains to 
the west and east. The snow- line was at 16,000 feet; 




THE SNOW-LINE AT l6,000 FEET 



the snow below this level melts daily, except in a few 
shaded places. Red and white flowers were still to be 
seen, though not in such quantities as lower down, and 
I saw enamoured couples of small black and white but- 
terflies.* 

* N.B. — This same kind of butterfly I found at even greater elevations 
in Tibet. 

151 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

After a while there was yet another bitterly cold stream 
to ford, two small lakes to skirt, three more deep rivers 
to wade, with cold water from the snows up to our chests ; 
and then we had to make the best way we could through a 
large field of rocks and stones showing strong indications 
of iron, my compasses being at once affected, and becom- 
ing for a time quite unreliable owing to the deviation. A 
curious flat, circular stone, resting on the top of others, 
was pointed out to me as a wonder ; the accepted legend 
of the Shokas being that, centuries ago, one of their coun- 
trymen halted by the side of this rock, and having baked 
a chapati, laid it upon the rock, proceeding to make 
others, when to his great astonishment, on raising his 
hand to take his first chapati, he found it had turned 
into solid stone, and had furthermore assumed gigantic 
proportions. A few feet farther on I was pointed out an- 
other wonder, a great human hand (as the Tibetans and 
Shokas call it), which is supposed to have belonged to 
the maker of the chapati. Not being satisfied with his 
first experience, he laid his hand on the rock, and there 
it remained, petrified, and, in this case also, increas- 
ing tenfold in size. I could see, with some stretch of 
the imagination, a certain resemblance to an enormous 
human hand, but the thing required more faith than 
observation. 

Mile after mile we marched over sharp stones, wading 
through a second troublesome delta of eight arms fully a 
mile in width, across a flat basin of pointed pebbles and 
stones, until at last, to our great comfort, we came to 
smooth grass-land. 

Here the Kuti River ran through a large basin, not 
dissimilar to the one near which we had camped the night 
before, having also the appearance of lake formation, with 
high perpendicular rocks on the left, which gave one the 

152 



THE LAST OBSTACLE 

impression of a vast wall — a rugged and forbidding 
barrier. Proceeding northwest the basin became wider 
and the Kuti River turned to the northwest, while the 
Mangshan River, descending from the east, joined the 
first stream in the centre of the basin. In crossing the 
numerous branches of the two rivers w 7 e again expe- 
rienced, with almost accentuated discomfort, the trials and 
weariness of the preceding day. The water was colder 
than ever, our feet were by this time in a dreadful condi- 
tion, cut and bleeding, because it was constantly necessary 
to walk barefooted. Aching and benumbed, we stumbled 
on, in and out of water, always, it seemed, encountering 
sharp small stones. For us there could be no turning 
back, however; the pain had to be borne before the march 
was finished, and we won our camping-ground at last un- 
der the lee of the high chain of mountains to the north 
of us and on the northern bank of the Mangshan River. 
Directly in front stood the final obstacle, the stupendous 
backbone of the Himahlyas ; once past this I should be 
on that high Tibetan plateau so accurately and pictu- 
resquely called " the roof of the world." 



CHAPTER XXIII 

THE SCOUTS RETURN — A SMALL EXPLORING PARTY — THE MANGSHAN 

GLACIER 

From Kuti I had despatched a sturdy Shoka, named 
Nattoo, to ascertain whether it was possible to cross the 
range over the high Mangshan Pass, as in this case I 
should be enabled to get many marches into Tibet by the 
jungle without fear of being detected. I should thus get 
behind the force of soldiers which I was informed the 
Jong Pen of Taklakot had concentrated at the Lippu Pass 
to prevent my entering the country, and before they could 
have time to discover my whereabouts I should be too far 
ahead for them to find me. Nattoo arrived in camp al- 
most simultaneously with ourselves and had a long tale of 
woe to relate. He had been half-way up the mountain. 
The snow was deep, and there were huge and treacherous 
cracks in the ice. As he was on his way up, an avalanche 
had fallen, and it was merely by the skin of his teeth that 
he had escaped with his life. This was to him an evil 
omen, and he had turned back without reaching the sum- 
mit of the pass. He seemed scared and worn out, and 
declared that it was impossible for us to proceed that way. 
Unfortunately the thrilling account of the Kutial's mis- 
fortunes had a depressing effect on my men. What with 
the intense cold, the fatigue of carrying heavy loads at 
high elevations over such rough country, and the fearful 
rivers which they dreaded, and so many of which we had 
crossed, my carriers became absolutely demoralized at the 

154 



L._ 




^ 




S^% 



THE MANGSHAN GLACIER 



! ! 



CAMPING AT 16,150 FEET 

thought of new hardships ahead, all the more when I as- 
sured them that I did not believe Nattoo, and that I should 
go and see for myself. 

It was 4.30 in the afternoon, and therefore some time 
before sunset. There would be moonlight. I had on 
that day marched eight miles,* and though the soles of 
my feet were cut and sore I was not really tired. Our 
camp was at an elevation of 16,150 feet, a pretty respect- 
able altitude, considering that the highest mountain in 
Europe is only 15,781 feet. Dr. Wilson insisted on ac- 
companying me to the top, and Kachi Ram and a Rongba 
coolie volunteered to come as well. Bijesing, the Johari, 
got on his feet after some persuasion, and that completed 
our little exploration party. Chanden Sing, who was really 
the only man I could trust, was left in charge of the camp, 
with strict orders to punish severely any one who might 
attempt to turn back during my absence. 

We set out almost immediately after reaching camp, 
following up-stream the course of the Mangshan River, 
which is boxed in between high cliffs, those south of it 
running in a direction of ioo° (b. m.), those to the north 
converging to 130°, the two ranges eventually meeting in 
the glacier at the foot of Mangshan, about three miles 
east-east-southeast of our camp. There was no track, 
and the walking was extremely difficult and troublesome, 
over large slippery stones, between which one's feet con- 
stantly slipped and got jammed, straining and injuring 
one's ankles. Little trusting my followers, who seemed on 
the verge of mutiny, I did not care to leave behind in camp 
the heavy load of silver rupees (R. 800) sewn in my coat — 
which, by-the-way, I always carried on my person — as well 

* It must be remembered that at high elevations the exertion of walking 
eight miles would be equivalent to that of marching about twice the dis- 
tance at much lower altitudes. 

155 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

as my rifle, two compasses (prismatic and luminous), two 
aneroids, one half-chronometer and another watch, and 
some thirty cartridges. The combined weight of these 
articles was considerable,* and I felt it especially during 
the first days of my march. On this particular afternoon 
it was almost too much for my strength. However, one 
gets accustomed to most things, and after a while I felt 
comparatively little discomfort in marching under it. I 
persisted in thus weighting myself simply to be on the safe 
side, so as to be always prepared in case my men revolted 
or abandoned me. 

We proceeded up and down the series of hillocks, and 
in and out of the innumerable channels that the melting 
snow and ice had, with the aid of centuries, cut deep into 
the mass of rolling stones. At the point where the two 
ranges met there stood before us the magnificent pale- 
green ice-terraces of the Mangshan glacier, surmounted 
by extensive snow-fields winding their way to the summit 
of the mountain range. Clouds enveloped the higher 
peaks. The clear Alpine ice showed vertical streaks, 
especially in the lower part of the glacier, where it was 
granulated to a certain extent. The base, the sides, and 
top being covered with a thick coat of fresh snow, and my 
time being very limited, I was unable to make careful in- 
vestigations to ascertain the recent movement and oscil- 
lations of this glacier. Judging by the nature of the stony 
tracts we had passed over, and also by the mounds, similar 
to those of a terminal moraine, which increased as we ap- 
proached the glacier and its snow-covered fringe, I con- 
cluded that the glacier must have retreated considerably. 
The rocks and stones, as I have already mentioned, were 
shiny and slippery, which I attributed to the friction of 

* See Appendix. Letter by Dr. H. Wilson, 

i 5 6 



NATURAL RESERVOIRS 

the ice. Where the soil was exposed it showed a gravel 
surface disturbed and scarred by innumerable channels. 
The slopes of the mountains on the north showed no in- 
dication of having been disturbed. The large basins 
which I had crossed on my way to Kuti, and even the 
last one, facing our camp, were merely reservoirs formed 
by ancient moraines with alluvial deposits. 



CHAPTER XXIV 

SNOW AND TROUBLESOME DEBRIS— TYiY. DOCTOR'S SUFFERINGS — KACHI 
DISABLED — FURTHER TRIALS — A WEIRD APPARITION — DELIRIUM— 
ALL SAFE — THE DESCENT 

The Mangshan River rises from this glacier, but we 
left the glacier (17,800 feet) to the right, and, turning 
sharply northward, began our ascent towards the pass. 
To gaze upon the incline before us was alone sufficient to 
deter one from attempting to climb it, had one a choice; 
in addition to this, the snow we struggled over was so soft 
and deep that we sank into it up to our waists. Occasion- 
ally the snow alternated with patches of loose debris and 
rotten rock, on which we were no better off ; in fact, the 
fatigue of progressing over them was simply overpowering. 
Having climbed up half a dozen steps among the loose, 
cutting stones, we felt ourselves sliding back to almost 
our original point of departure, followed by a small ava- 
lanche of shifting material that only stopped when it got 
to the foot of the mountain. 

At 1 9,000 feet we were for a considerable distance on soft 
snow, covering an ice-field with deep crevasses and cracks 
in it. We had to feel our way with great caution, partic- 
ularly as there was only the light of the moon to depend 
upon. 

Fortunately, as we rose higher, there were no more 
crevasses, but I began to feel a curious exhaustion that I 
had never experienced before. At sunset the thermometer 
which Kachi carried for me had descended forty degrees 
within a few minutes, and the sudden change in the tem- 

158 



THE DOCTOR AND KACHI DISABLED 

perature seemed to affect us all more or less ; but we went 
on, with the exception of Bijesing, who was seized with 
mountain sickness so violently that he was unable to pro- 
ceed. The doctor, too, a man of powerful build, was 
suffering considerably. His legs, he said, had become 
like lead, and each seemed to weigh a ton. The effort of 
lifting, or even moving, them required all his energy. Al- 
though he was terribly blown and gasping for breath, yet 
he would not give in, and he struggled on bravely until 
we reached an altitude of 20,500 feet. Here he was seized 
with such exhaustion and pain that he was unable to pro- 
ceed. Kachi Ram, the Rongba, and I w r ent ahead, but we 
also were suffering, Kachi complaining of violent beating 
in his temples and loud buzzing in his ears. He also 
gasped and staggered dangerously, threatening to collapse 
at any moment. At 21,000 feet he fell flat on the snow. 
He was instantly asleep, breathing heavily and snoring 
raspingly. His hands and feet were icy cold, and I rubbed 
them. But what caused me more anxiety than anything 
w r as the irregular beating and throbbing of his heart. I 
wrapped him up in his blanket and my waterproof, and, 
having seen to his general comfort, I shouted to the doctor, 
telling him what had happened, and that I was going to 
push on as much higher as I could stand, the Rongba 
being now the only one of the party who was able to 
keep up. 

A thick mist came on and enveloped us, which con- 
siderably added to our trials. Our efforts to get on after 
we left Kachi at 21,000 feet were desperate, our lungs in 
convulsion as if about to burst, our pulses hastened, our 
hearts throbbing (mine being ordinarily very regular) as if 
they would beat themselves out of our bodies. Exhausted, 
and seized by irresistible drowsiness, the Rongba and I 
nevertheless at last reached the top. It was a satisfaction 

'59 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

to have got there, to have reached such an altitude, al- 
though I had long realized the impossibility of getting my 
men over by this way. It served me also to ascertain the 
amount of snow on the other side of the range, which, when 
the fog lifted somewhat, I found to be greater on the 
northern slope than on the southern. Although almost 
fainting with fatigue, I registered my observations. The 
altitude was 22,000 feet, the hour 11 p.m., and there was 
a strong, cutting northeast wind. I had stupidly forgotten 
to take my thermometer out of Kachi's pocket when I 
left him, and was unable to register the temperature, but 
the cold was intense. The stars were extraordinarily 
brilliant and the moon shone bright for a while over the 
panorama around me, and, though it was a view of utter 
desolation, it had nevertheless a curious, indescribable 
fascination. Below me, to the south, were mountainous 
masses buried in snow, and to the southwest and north- 
east were peaks even higher than the one on which I 
stood. To the north stretched the immense, dreary Tib- 
etan plateau with undulations and intricate hill ranges, 
beyond which a high mountain range with snow-peaks 
could just be perceived in the distance. I could see very 
little snow near by, except on the northern slope of the 
range I was standing on, and on the hill-tops which dotted 
the plateau. 

I had barely taken it in, barely realized the wonder of 
nature asleep, when the mist again rose before me and I 
saw a gigantic phantom rising out of it. It stood in the 
centre of a luminous circle, a tall, dark figure in the folds 
of an enormous veil of mist. The effect was overwhelm- 
ing, and it was only after some moments that 1 realized 
that the spectre wore my features, was a liquid presenta- 
tion of my own proportions colossally enlarged ; that I 
stood in the centre of a lunar rainbow, and that I was 

160 



OVERCOME IN THE SNOW 

gazing on the reflection of myself in the mist. As I moved 
my arms, my body, or my head, the ghostlike figure 
moved, and I felt myself irresistibly changing my postures 
— oddly and nervously at first, then with an awakening 
sense of the ridiculous in my actions — so as to make my 
image change and do as I did. I felt like a child placed 
for the first time in front of a mirror. 

At the time I made a picture representing a solar 
spectre with circular rainbow I saw on a later date at a 
comparatively low altitude ; the lunar effect differed from 
this in that the colors of the rainbow were but faintly dis- 
tinguishable. 

The Rongba had fallen exhausted, and I felt so faint 
with the awful pressure on my lungs that, despite all my 
efforts to resist it, I collapsed on the snow. The coolie 
and I, shivering pitifully, shared the same blanket for 
additional warmth. Both of us were seized with irresisti- 
ble drowsiness, as if we had taken a strong narcotic. I 
fought hard against it, for I well knew that if my eyelids 
once closed they would almost certainly remain so for- 
ever. I called to the Rongba. He was fast asleep. I 
summoned up my last atom of vitality to keep my eyes 
open, but the wind blew hard and biting, with a hissing 
noise. How that hiss still sounds in my ears! It seemed 
like the whisper of death. The Rongba, crouched with 
teeth chattering, was moaning, and his sudden shudders 
bespoke great pain. It seemed only common charity to 
let him have the blanket, which was in any case too small 
for both, so I wrapped it tightly round his head and body. 
He was doubled up with his chin on his knees. This 
small exertion was quite sufficient to make me lose the 
tug-of-war in which I was pulling against nature. Just 
like the subject who, under hypnotic influence, feels his 
own will and power suddenly going from him, so I felt the 

161 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

entire hopelessness of further struggle against the super 
natural forces I was contending with. Falling backward 
on the snow, I made a last desperate effort to gaze at 
the glittering stars . . . my sight became dim and ob- 
scured. . . . 

For how long this semiconsciousness lasted I do not 
know. "God! how ghastly! Doctor! Kachi !" I tried 
to articulate. My voice seemed choked in my throat. 
Was what I saw before me real ? The two men, as if 
frozen to death by the side of each other, seemed lying on 
that vast white sheet of snow, motionless as statues of ice. 
In my dream I attempted to raise them. They were quite 
rigid. I knelt beside them, calling them and frantically 
striving to bring them back to consciousness and life. 
Bewildered, I turned round to look for Bijesing, and, as I 
did so, all sense of vitality seemed to freeze within me. I 
saw myself enclosed in a quickly contracting tomb of 
transparent ice. It was easy to realize that I too would 
shortly be nothing but a solid block of ice, like my com- 
panions. My legs, my arms were already congealed. Hor- 
ror-stricken as I was at the approach of such a hopeless, 
ghastly death, my sensations were accompanied by a lan- 
guor and lassitude indescribable but far from unpleasant. 
To some extent thought or wonderment was still alive. 
Should I dwindle painlessly away, preferring rest and 
peace to effort, or should I make a last struggle to save 
myself? The ice seemed to close in more and more every 
moment. I was choking. 

I tried to scream, to force myself through the suffocat- 
ing weight on me. I gave a violent plunge, and then 
everything had vanished — the frozen Kachi, the doctor, 
the transparent tomb! 

At last I was able to open my eyes, which ached as if 
needles had been stuck into them. It was snowing hard. 

162 



A GHASTLY NIGHTMARE 

I had temporarily lost the use of my legs and fingers. 
They were almost frozen. So violent was the shock of re- 
alizing how near death I had really been that in waking up 
from the ghastly nightmare I became acutely alive to the 
full importance of instantly making my way down to a 
lower level. I was already covered with a layer of snow, 
and I suppose it was the frigid pressure on my forehead 




* 




^Lj 



"I ROUSED THE RONGBA " 



that caused the dream. It is, perhaps, probable that, 
had it not been for the hideous vision that shook my 
nerves free of the paralyzing torpor, I should never have 
awakened from that spell-bound silence. 

I sat up with difficulty, and, by rubbing and beating 
them, slowly regained the use of my lower limbs. I 
roused the Rongba, rubbed him, and shook him till he 
was able to move. We began our descent. 

No doubt the satisfaction of going up high mountains is 
very great ; but can it be compared to that of coming down ? 

163 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Descending was dangerous, but not wearisome. The 
incline being extremely steep, we took gigantic strides on 
the snow, and when we came to patches of debris we slid 
ten or fifteen feet each step amidst a deafening roar from 
the huge mass of loose stones set in motion by our de- 
scent. 

" Hark!" I said to the Rongba; "what is that?" 

We waited till all was silence, and with hands up to 
our ears listened attentively. It was still snowing. 

"Ao, ao, ao ! Jaldi ao ! Tumka hatte?" (Come, come, 
come! Come quickly! Where are you?) cried a faint, 
distressed voice from far down below. 

We quickened our pace; having hardly any control 
over our legs, our descent was precipitous. The snow- 
fall ceased and we became enveloped in a thick mist, 
which pierced into our very bones. 

Guided by the anxious cries of the doctor, whose voice 
we recognized, we continued our breakneck journey down- 
ward. The cries got more and more distinct, and at last, 
to my great joy, we came face to face with Wilson, who, 
thank Heaven, was alive but almost helpless, as he said 
his legs were still like lead, and it was all he could do to 
move them. 

Owing to his anxiety about us, he had been shouting 
for a long time, and, getting no answer, he became very 
uneasy, all the more so as he found he could in no way 
come to our help. He had quite given us up for lost. 

We looked for and found Kachi. He had slept like a 
top, curled up in his warm blanket and my overcoat, and 
was now quite refreshed ; so, all united again, we continued 
our race downward, exchanging our experiences and sen- 
sations. We had no very serious mishaps, and life and 
strength gradually came back to us again when we de- 
scended to lower elevations. The ascent from the glacier 

164 



RETURN TO CAMP 

at the bottom of the mountain to the summit occupied 
four and a half hours; the precipitous descent, without 
counting stoppages, only the ninth part of that time. 

Over the same trying stony valley we reached camp 
during the early hours of the morning. The distance 
from camp to the altitude reached and back was over ten 
miles; therefore, during the twenty-four hours I had alto- 
gether gone eighteen miles (quite a record at such great 
altitudes). I may here also remark that, since breakfast at 
six o'clock the previous morning, I had taken no food of 
any kind, thus making an interval of twenty-three hours 
between one meal and the next. The anxiety of my men 
in camp was intense. They had lost all hope of seeing 
us again, and they were quite reassured when I told them 
that we would proceed later in the morning by the Lum- 
piya Pass, which was believed to be far easier. 

In no time they had lighted a fire of dung, and after 
having had (at five o'clock in the morning) a handsome 
feed of rice, chapatis, extract of meat, and strengthen- 
ing emergency food, we felt we were entitled to a well- 
deserved rest. 

165 



CHAPTER XXV 

THE SOURCES OF THE KUTI RIVER— THE LUMPIYA GLACIER — THE 
SUMMIT OF THE RANGE — BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF TIBET— RUBSO FROZEN 
ALMOST TO DEATH —THE LUMPIYA PASS — TWO COOLIES IN DIS- 
TRESS 

At g a.m. we were ready again to start. The ther- 
mometer registered 40° inside the tent, and the minimum 
temperature outside during the night had been 14 . We 
followed the Kuti River at the foot of the mountain- 
range, travelling in a direction of 298 (b. m.). On round- 
ing a prominent headland, where the Kuti River flows 
through a narrow passage, we saw facing us on a mound 
fourteen stone pillars and pyramids with white stones on 
them and the customary flying prayers of cloth. It is 
from this point that the ascent of the Lumpiya Pass 
begins. 

There are two sources of the Kuti Yangti, joining in a 
large basin ; one comes from two extensive glaciers to the 
southwest, the other from a glacier directly under the 
Lumpiya Pass. The river at the junction of the two 
sources is not more than six yards across. Our route 
gradually ascended, going northwest first, then swinging 
away to northeast until we attained an elevation of 17,350 
feet on a flat basin covered with deep snow. So far we 
had proceeded with no very great trouble or fatigue, but 
matters suddenly altered for the worse. Each coolie in 
the long silent row at the head of which I marched sank 
in the snow up to his knees, often up to his waist. They 
formed, undoubtedly, a picturesque sight in this lonely 

166 



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THE LUMPIYA GLACIER 

region, the only bit of life in the picture, the white frozen 
sheet of snow throwing into strong contrast their faces 
wrapped tightly round with white turbans. Some wore 
fur caps with ear-flaps ; all had long sheepskin coats and 
high boots of skins ; many used snow spectacles ; and as 
this procession, silent and grave, with loads on their 
backs, struggled higher and higher with piteous pant- 
ing, you speculated apprehensively as to how many of 
them would ever return. Moving cautiously to avoid 
the many treacherous cracks, I made my way ahead with 
considerable trouble to a spot six hundred feet higher, 
where I halted for a while on a rocky island fairly clear 
of snow. As coolie after coolie arrived, breathing con- 
vulsively, he dropped his load and sat quietly by the side 
of it. There was not a grumble, not a word of reproach 
for the hard work they were made to endure. Sleet was 
falling, and the wet and cold increased the discomfort. 
There was now a very steep pull before us. To the left 
w r e had a glacier beginning in a precipitous fall of ice, 
about one hundred feet in height. Like the Mangshan 
glacier, it was in horizontal, ribbon-like strata of beauti- 
fully clear ice, showing no dirt bands. Perpendicular 
stripes of a darker greenish color could be observed aris- 
ing from the unequal degrees of compactness of the ice; 
the strata showed almost horizontal, with no curvatures 
nor depressions in any part of them. The top, the base, 
and the sides of the glacier w T ere in this case also buried 
in deep snow. 

The doctor and I went ahead. In our anxiety to reach 
the summit, unable to discern the track, now covered by 
several feet of snow, we mistook our bearings, and with 
great fatigue climbed up an extremely steep incline. Here 
we were on a patch of the troublesome loose debris, on 
which we struggled for over half an hour until we reached 

167 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the top of the range, 18,750 feet, considerably higher than 
the pass itself. Four men had come with us, the others, 
to whom we signalled, bearing more to the west by another 
dangerous track skirting the glacier. 

The wind from the northeast was piercing and the cold 
terrible. Under the lee of a large rock we found tempo- 
rary shelter, and through my telescope scanned the Tibetan 
plateau spread out before us. From this high eyrie we 
obtained a superb bird's-eye view. Huge masses of snow 
covered the Tibetan side of the Himahlyas, as well as the 
lower range of mountains immediately in front of us, run- 
ning almost parallel to our range. Two thousand feet 
below, between these two ranges, flowed, in a wide barren 
valley, a river which is afterwards called the Darma Yankti 
or Lumpiya Yankti. In the distance a flat plateau, rising 
some eight hundred feet above the river, and resembling 
a gigantic embankment of a railway line, could be seen 
extending for many miles; and far away to the north a 
chain of high blue mountains capped with snow, undoubt- 
edly the Kangri chain with the Kelas peaks. 

A painful incident had unfortunately happened to one 
of my followers — poor Rubso, a Christian convert, had 
fallen exhausted from cold and fatigue. He had been 
seized with cramp, and was lying in a semiconscious state, 
his teeth chattering and his features distorted and livid ; 
his eyes were sunken and lifeless, and he showed signs of 
complete collapse. We hastily carried him under the 
shelter of a rock and rubbed him vigorously, in the hope 
of restoring his circulation. After more than half an hour 
of the greatest anxiety and exertion, to our intense relief 
he partially recovered and was able to proceed slowly 
with our help. 

Having climbed the wrong path, we now had to descend 
to the pass, six hundred feet lower. We made our way 

168 



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A DANGEROUS DESCENT 

along dangerous rocks and debris. I was just clinging 
with my half-frozen fingers to a prominent rock, striving 
to get on the other side, when screams of distress from 
below struck my ears. Notwithstanding the unsafe posi- 
tion I was in, I could not help turning my head to see 
what had happened. On the steep incline of snow two 
coolies with their respective loads were sliding at incredi- 
ble speed. They eventually reached the basin, where the 
angle of the descent being suddenly altered, it caused 
them to revolve several times on their own axes, the dif- 
ferent bags, etc., forming their loads, flying about and 
being scattered in every direction. I gave a sigh of relief 
when I saw the men getting up. One coolie picked up 
one after the other the goods that had been intrusted to 
him, tied them together, got them on his back, and began 
the difficult ascent a second time. The other was crying 
and moaning, so that we could plainly hear him from our 
elevation. He seemed giddy. After a moment or two he 
staggered, fell back, and lay as if dead. Hastening over 
the slippery rocks, and then down precipitously on the 
loose debris, I gained the pass, 18,150 feet. Two reluctant 
men were immediately despatched to the relief of the coolie 
in distress. They first carried his load up, then him. After 
some time he too got over the severe shock and fright, 
and, though he was rather shattered and aching all over, 
I succeeded in persuading the man that nothing was the 
matter with him. 

We then hurried down the steep declivity on the Tibetan 
side, to get away quickly from the bitterly cold, windy 
pass. Describing a wide arc of a circle, and then making 
straight down across several long snow-beds, we at last 
reached the river level and pitched our tents on snow at 
an altitude of 16,900 feet. There was no wood, no yak or 
pony dung, no lichens, no moss, and therefore nothing 

169 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

with which we could make a fire. It seemed hard upon 
my men that, after such a toilsome day, they should be 
compelled to go to sleep without having had a good meal. 
They believe — and they are right — that eating cold food 
at such high elevations, with such low temperature, leads 
to certain death. They preferred, therefore, to remain 
without food altogether. Night came, and with it the 
wind, blowing in gusts and piling the grit and snow 
around our tents. During the nocturnal hours, with the 
hurricane raging, we had to turn out of our flapping can- 
vases several times to make the loose pegs firmer. Fast- 
ening all the frozen ropes was very cold work. At 2 a.m. 
the thermometer was down to 12 . At 9 a.m., in the sun, 
it went up to 26 , and inside the tent at the same hour we 
had a temperature as high as 32 — freezing-point. 



CHAPTER XXVI 

MYSTERIOUS FOOTPRINTS — BRIGAND OR SPY? — PASSES AND TRACKS— IN- 
TENSE COLD — NO FUEL — A HIGH, FLAT PLATEAU — FUEL AT LAST ! — 
TWO SPIES IN DISGUISE — WHAT THEY TOOK US FOR 

In a hurricane of grit and drenching rain we packed 
up our traps as best we could and again started on our 
way. I was slightly in advance, when, to my surprise, 
I noticed, some two hundred yards only from camp, 
a double line of recent footmarks in the snow. Those 
coming towards us were somewhat indistinct and nearly 
covered with grit, those going in the opposite direction 
seemed quite recent. After carefully examining these 
footprints, I felt pretty certain that they had been made 
by a Tibetan. Where the footprints stopped, marks in 
the snow showed that the man had at different points laid 
himself flat on the ground. No doubt we had been spied 
upon and watched. My own men had shown many signs 
of terror ever since we had crossed to this side of the 
Himahlyas, and were now all anxiously stooping low over 
these prints and speculating on their origin. Their excite- 
ment and fear were strange to watch. Some surmised 
that the man must be a Daku, a brigand, and that in the 
evening we should be attacked by the whole band ; others 
maintained that the spy could only be a Sepoy sent by the 
Gyanema officers to watch our movements. In any case, 
this incident was held to be an evil omen, and during our 
march in a northwest direction along the bank of the 
river we continually saw the trail. The wildest specula- 

171 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

tions and imaginations were rife. To the left of us we 
passed the valleys leading south to the Neway Pass ; then 
a second to the Kats, 230° (b. m.). The bearings were 
taken from the mouth of the river descending from it and 
a tributary of the Darma Yangti. 

Six miles from our last camp, at bearings 340 , was the 
Luway Pass. 

We were travelling on flat or slightly undulating barren 
ground. We waded across another cold river with water 
up to our waists, and my men became so exhausted that 
one mile farther we had to halt at 16,650 feet. 

The cold was intense, and again we had no fuel of any 
kind. A furious wind was blowing, with snow falling 
heavily in the evening. My carriers, half starved, ate a 
little satoo, a kind of oatmeal, but Chanden Sing, a Raji- 
put, could not, without breaking his caste, eat his food 
without undressing. It was two days since he had had 
his last meal, but rather than infringe the rules of his re- 
ligion, or take off his clothes in such frigid regions, he 
preferred to curl up in his blanket and go to sleep 
fastino-. 

The doctor left the warmth and comfort of blankets to 
go and talk with the men, and get their views about 
weather prospects and the chances of our route. I pre- 
ferred the comfort of such warmth as I could get in our 
tent, where the temperature was 28 Fahr., or four de- 
grees below freezing. The snow was lying a foot deep, 
and it was still falling heavily. The carriers were all at- 
tempting to sleep, huddled as close as possible to each 
other for warmth; they refused to move, saying they 
would rather die, and we found it convenient to believe 
them, and get what warmth and sleep we could under 
blankets in the tent. 

Two or three hours later the weather cleared. The 

172 




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A SHELTERED NOOK 

coolies, half starved, came to complain that they were 
again unable to find fuel to cook their food, and that they 
would leave me. The position of affairs was critical. I 
immediately took my telescope and clambered to the top 
of a small hillock. It was curious to note what unbound- 
ed faith the coolies had in this glass. It was evident that 
they believed, in a childlike fashion, that I could see 
through mountains with it. I came down with the reas- 
suring news that one day's march farther would bring us 
to a fine supply of fuel. 

They cheerfully hastened to pack up the loads, and set 
forth with unusual energy in the direction I had pointed 
out. We followed a parallel line to the high flat plateau 
on the other side of the stream, the slopes of which, in 
relation to the plain we were standing on, were at an ob : 
tuse angle of about 115°. The snow-covered plateau ex- 
tended from southwest to northeast. Beyond it to the 
north could be seen some high snowy peaks, in all prob- 
ability the lofty summits southeast of Gartok. At the 
point where the Luway joins the other three rivers there 
is a direct way to the summit of the table-land, along 
which it continues across the Himahlyas by the Luway 
Pass. To our right we were flanked by high, rugged 
mountains, with an occasional precipitous torrent. Six 
hours' brisk marching took us to a sheltered nook where 
a few lichens and shrubs were growing. If we had sud- 
denly descended into the Black Forest of Germany or 
the Yosemite Valley, with their gigantic, century-old trees, 
our delight could not have been greater. As it was, the 
highest of these shrubs stood no higher than six or seven 
inches from the ground, while the diameter of the largest 
piece of wood we collected was smaller than that of an 
ordinary pencil. With feverish activity all hands went to 
work to root up these plants for fuel. 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

When night came, the same number of hands were 
busy cooking and transferring with alarming celerity such 
steaming food as was available from the different fires to 
the mouths of the famished coolies. Happiness reigned in 
camp, and all recent hardships were forgotten. 

A fresh surprise was awaiting us when we rose. Two 
Tibetans disguised as beggars had come to our camp. 
They professed to be suffering from cold and starvation. 
I gave orders that they should be properly fed and kindly 
treated. On being cross-examined they confessed that 
they were spies sent by the officer at Gyanema to ascer- 
tain whether a sahib had crossed the frontier, and whether 
we had seen anything of him. 

We had so many things to attend to in the morning, 
and it was so cold, that washing had really become a 
nuisance, and I for my part gave it up, at least pro tern. 
We were sunburned, and we wore turbans and snow-glasses, 
so the Tibetans departed under the impression that our 
party consisted of a Hindoo doctor, his brother, and a 
caravan of servants (none of whom had seen a sahib com- 
ing), and that we were now on a pilgrimage to the sacred 
Mansarowar Lake and Kelas Mount. 

In the presence of the men we treated this as a great 
joke, but, all the same, Wilson and I anxiously consulted 
as to our immediate plans. Should we make a rapid 
march during the night over the mountain range to our 
right, and strike east by the jungle, or should we face the 
Gyanema leader and his soldiers? 

We decided to meet the Tibetans rather than go out 
of our way. I gave orders to raise camp immediately. 



CHAPTER XXVII 

LAMA CHOKDEN — A TIBETAN GUARD — THE SACRED KELAS — REVERENCE 
OF MY MEN FOR THE SACRED MOUNTAIN — TRYING HARD TO KEEP 
FRIENDS WITH THE GODS — OBOS — WATER FLOWING TO US 

We altered our course from north to northeast, rising 
to 16,600 feet, and leaving the high table-land to the west. 
We arrived at Lama Chokden (or Chorten), a pass protected 
by a Tibetan guard, who quickly turned out, matchlocks 
in hand, as we approached. They seemed a miserable lot, 
and not only offered no resistance, but actually begged 
for money and food. They complained of ill-treatment 
by their superiors, stating that they received no pay, and 
even food was only occasionally sent to them at this out- 
post. Their tunics were in rags; each man carried a 
sword stuck in front through the girdle. Here, too, w r e 
had more inquiries about the young sahib, as messengers 
on horseback had been sent post-haste from Taklakot to 
warn the Gyanema officer not to let him penetrate into 
Hundes # by the Lumpiya Pass, should he attempt it. 
Their description of my supposed appearance was very 
amusing, and when they said that if the sahib came they 
would have to cut his head off, I felt so touched by their 
good-natured confidence that I wanted to distribute a few 
rupees among them. 

" Do not give them anything, sir," said Kachi and the 
doctor. " These fellows are hand and glove with the 
bands of dacoits ; the latter will soon be told that we have 

* Hundes — Tibet. 

175 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

money, and we shall run great risk of being attacked at 
night." 

I insisted on giving them a present. 

" No, sir," cried Kachi, distressed ; " do not do it, or it 
will bring us no end of trouble and misfortune. If you 
give them four annas, that will be ample." 

Accordingly the officer in command had this large sum 
deposited in the outstretched palm of his hand, and, to 
show his satisfaction, he pulled out his tongue to its full 
length, waving both his hands at me for some minutes, 
and bowing clumsily at the same time. His fur cap had 
been previously removed and thrown on the ground. 
This was indeed a grand salaam, a ceremonious acknowl- 
edgment of a gift of something less than fourpence ! 

While the doctor remained in conversation with him, I 
happened to witness a very beautiful sight. To the north 
the clouds had dispersed, and the snow-capped sacred 
Kelas Mount stood majestic before us. In appearance 
not unlike the graceful roof of a temple, Kelas towers 
over the long white-capped range, contrasting in beautiful 
blending of tints with the warm sienna color of the lower 
elevations. Kelas is some two thousand feet higher than 
the other peaks of the Gangir chain, with strongly defined 
ledges and terraces marking its stratifications, and covered 
with horizontal layers of snow standing out in brilliant 
color against the dark, ice-worn rock. The Tibetans, the 
Nepalese, the Shokas, the Humlis, Jumlis, and Hindoos, 
all have a strong veneration for this mountain, which is 
believed by them to be the abode of all the good gods, 
especially of the god Siva. In fact, the ledge round its 
base is said by the Hindoos to be the mark of the ropes 
used by the devil (Rakas) to pull down the throne of 
Siva. 

My men, with heads uncovered, their faces turned tow- 

176 



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FRIENDS WITH THE GODS 

ards the sacred peak, were muttering prayers. With 
joined hands, which they slowly raised as high as the 
forehead, they prayed fervently, and then went down on 
their knees, with heads bent low to the ground. My brig- 
and follower, who was standing close by me, hurriedly 
whispered that I should join in this act of prayer. 

" You must keep friends with the gods," said the ban- 
dit ; " misfortune will attend you if you do not salaam to 
Kelas ; that is the home of a good god I" and he pointed 
to the peak with the most devout air of conviction. 

To please him I saluted the mountain with the utmost 
deference, and, taking my cue from the others, placed a 
white stone on one of the hundreds of Choktens or Obos 
(stone pillars) erected by devotees at this spot. These 
Obos, or rough pyramids of stones, are found on the tracks 
traversing all high passes, near lakes — in fact, everywhere, 
but rarely in such quantities as at Lama Chokden. The 
hill in front, and at the back of the guard-house, was liter- 
ally covered with these structures. Each passer-by de- 
posits a stone on one of them — a white stone if possible — ■ 
and this is supposed to bring him good-fortune, or, if he 
has a wish he desires accomplished, such a contribution 
will enhance the chances of its fulfilment. 

The guard-house itself was of rough stone, mean and 
desolate, and in any country but Tibet would not be con- 
sidered fit accommodation for pigs. 

After going a mile or so farther, as the sun was fast 
disappearing we searched for a suitable spot to pitch our 
tents. There was no sign of any water, only the stony 
bed of a dried rivulet. We were discussing the situation, 
when a faint sound as of rushing water struck our ears. 
It grew louder and louder, and then we saw coming tow- 
ards us a stream of limpid molten snow, gradually advanc- 
ing over the bed of stones. Evidently the snow of the 

177 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

mountains had taken all day to melt, and the water was 
only now reaching this spot. My dacoit was in a great 
state of excitement. 

" Water flowing to you, sahib I" he exclaimed, with his 
arms outstretched. " You will have great luck ! Look ! 
Look! You want water for your camp, and a stream 
comes to you ! Heaven blesses you. You must dip your 
fingers into the water as soon as it comes up to you, and 
throw some drops over your shoulders. Then will fortune 
attend you on your journey." 

I readily fell in with this Tibetan superstition, and we 
all dipped our fingers and sprinkled the water behind our 
backs. Wilson, however, who took the matter quite seri- 
ously, said it was all nonsense, and would not give in to 
such " childish fancy." 



CHAPTER XXVIII 

AN EXTENSIVE VALLEY — KIANG, OR WILD HORSE — THEIR STRANGE 
WAYS — THE GYANEMA FORT — APPREHENSION AT OUR APPEARANCE — 
A PARLEY — "CUT OUR HEADS !"— REVOLT AND MURDER CONTEM- 
PLATED—HYPOCRITICAL WAYS OF TIBETAN OFFICIALS — HELP SUM- 
MONED FROM EVERYWHERE — PREPARING FOR WAR 

In front of our camp was a great stretch of flat alluvial 
land, which had been, to all appearance, at some remote 
time the bed of a large lake about ten miles long and 
fourteen wide. With my telescope I could see plainly to 
40° (b. m.), at the foot of a small hill, the camping-ground 
of Karko. There were many tents, and my men seemed 
much reassured when by their shape and color we made 
them out to be those of the Joharis from Milam, who 
come over to this place to trade with the Hunyas.* To 
the east-northeast was a valley extending for many miles 
between two high ranges, and to the west and northwest 
were hills between us and the Darma River, flowing there 
in a north-northeasterly direction. Beyond Karko to the 
north a stretch of water, the Gyanema Lake, showed 
brilliantly, and beyond it some comparatively low hill 
ranges. In the distance, more snowy peaks were visible. 

On leaving camp we traversed the plain for six miles 
in a northeast direction, and then, on a course of 8o° 
(b. m.), turned into a smaller valley well enclosed by hills, 
following it for a distance of three or four miles. This 
formed, as it were, an arm of the other large valley. 

* Hunyas — Tibetans. 
179 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

During our inarch we saw many large herds of Kiang 
(wild horse). These animals came quite close to us. They 
resembled zebras in shape and movement of body, but in 
color they were mostly light brown. The natives regard- 
ed their near proximity as extremely dangerous ; for their 
apparent tameness is often deceptive, enabling them to 
draw quite close to the unwary traveller, and then with a 
sudden dash seize him by the stomach, inflicting a horri- 
ble wound with their powerful jaws. Their graceful and 
coquettish ways were most taking; we occasionally threw 
stones at them to keep them at a safe distance, but after 
cantering prettily away they would follow us again and 
come within a few yards. I succeeded in taking some very 
good negatives, which unfortunately were afterwards de- 
stroyed by the Tibetan authorities. I still have, however, 
some of the sketches I made of them. We climbed over 
another hill range, and descended on the other side into a 
grassy stretch of flat land, in the northern portion of which 
was a sheet of water. On a hill south of the lake stood the 
Gyanema Khar, or fort, a primitive tower-like structure of 
stones, with a tent pitched over it to answer the purpose 
of roof, supporting a flag-staff on which flew two dirty 
white rags. They were not the colors of Hundes, but 
only wind prayers. Lower down, at the foot of the hill, 
were two or three large black tents and a small shed of 
stones. Hundreds of black, white, and brown yaks were 
grazing on the green patches of grass. 

The appearance of our party evidently created some 
apprehension, for we had hardly shown ourselves on the 
summit of the col when from the fort a gong began to 
sound loudly, filling the air with its unmelodious metallic 
notes. A shot was fired. Soldiers with their matchlocks 
were seen running here and there. They pulled down 
one of the black tents and hastily conveyed it inside the 

1 80 



AT THE GYANEMA FORT 

fort, the greater part of the garrison also seeking refuge 
within the walls with the empressement almost of a stam- 
pede. When, after some little time, they convinced them- 
selves that we had no evil intentions, some of the Tib- 
etan officers, followed by their men, came trembling to 
meet us. The doctor, unarmed, went ahead to talk with 
them, whereas my bearer and I remained with the coolies 
for the double purpose of protecting our baggage in case 
of a treacherous attack, and of preventing my panic- 
stricken carriers from abandoning their loads and escap- 
ing. But matters looked peaceful enough. Rugs were 
spread on the grass, and eventually we all sat down. An 
hours trying parley with the Tibetan officers, during 
which time the same things were repeated over and over 
again, led to nothing. They said they could on no ac- 
count allow any one from India, whether native or sahib, 
to proceed, and we must go back. We on our side stated 
that we were doing no harm. We were pilgrims to the 
sacred Lake of Mansarowar, only a few miles farther. We 
had gone to much expense and trouble. How could 
we now turn back when so near our goal ? We w T ould 
not go back, and trusted they would allow us to pro- 
ceed. 

We treated them courteously and kindly, and probably 
mistaking this for fear they promptly took advantage of 
it, especially the Magbun,* or chief officer in charge of the 
Gyanema fort. His marked humility, of which at first 
he had made so much display, suddenly turned into arro- 
gance. 

"You will have to cut off my head," said he, with a 
vicious countenance, "or rather I will cut off yours, before 
J I let you go another step." 

* Magbun or Magpun — General-in-Chief. 

181 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

"Cut off my head?" cried I, jumping on my feet and 
shoving a cartridge into my rifle. 

" Cut off my head ?" repeated my bearer, pointing with 
his Martini-Henry at the official. 

"Cut off our heads?" queried angrily the Brahmin 
and the two Christian servants of Dr. Wilson, handling 
a Winchester and a couple of Gourkha kukris (large 
knives). 

" No, no, no, no ! Salaam, salaam, salaam !" poured 
forth the Magbun with the celerity of speech only pos- 
sessed by a panic-stricken man. " Salaam, salaam," re- 
peated he again, bowing down to the ground, tongue out, 
and depositing his hat at our feet in a disgustingly servile 
manner. " Let us talk like friends!" 

The Magbun's men, no braver than their master, shifted 
their positions in a nonchalant manner so as to be screened 
by their superiors in case of our firing, and on second 
thoughts, judging even such a precaution to insure them 
but scanty safety, they one after the other got up, walked 
steadily away for half a dozen steps, to show it was not 
fear that made them leave, and then took to their heels. 

The Magbun and the other officers who remained be- 
came more and more meek. We spoke and argued in a 
friendly manner for two long hours, but with no appreci- 
able results. The Magbun could not decide of his own 
accord. He would consult with his officers, and he could 
give us an answer no sooner than the next morning. In 
the mean time he would provide for our general comfort 
and insure our safety, if we would encamp near his tent. 
This, of course, I well knew to be an expedient to gain 
time, so as to send for soldiers to Barca, north of the 
Rakstal Lake, as well as to all the neighboring camps. I 
frankly told him my suspicions, but added that I wished 
to deal fairly with the Tibetan authorities before resort- 

182 



A DEMORALIZED COMPANY 

ing to force. I reminded the Magbun again, and made 
him plainly understand, that we were merely peaceful 
travellers, and had not come to fight; that I was paying 
tenfold for anything I purchased from him or his men, 
and was glad to do so; but at the same time, let the hand 
beware that dared touch or twist a single hair of any one 
belonging to my party ! The Magbun declared that he 
understood perfectly. He swore friendship, and as friends 
he begged us to stop over the night near his camp. By 
the Sun and Kunju Sum (Trinity) he gave a solemn oath 
that we should in no way be harmed. He took humble 
leave of us and retired. 

The doctor and I had been sitting in front, next were 
Chanden Sing, the Brahmin, and the two Christians. The 
carriers were behind. When the Magbun had gone I 
turned round to look at them. Behold, what a sight ! 
They one and all were crying miserably, each man hiding 
his face in his hands. Kachi had tears streaming down 
his cheeks, Dola was sobbing, while the Daku and the 
other Tibetan in my employ, who had for the occasion 
assumed a disguise, were concealing themselves behind 
their loads. Serious though the situation was, I could 
not help laughing at the demoralization of my men. 
We pitched our tents, and I had been sitting awhile in- 
side one, registering my observations and writing up my 
diary, when Kachi crept in, apparently in great distress. 
He seemed so upset that he could hardly speak. 

" Master !" he whispered. " Master ! The Tibetans 
have sent a man to your coolies threatening them that 
they must betray you or die. They must abandon you 
during the night, and if you attempt to retain them they 
must kill you." 

At the same time that this agent had been sent to con- 
spire with my coolies, other envoys of the Magbun brought 

183 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

huge masses of dry dung to make our fires, conveying to 
me his renewed declarations of friendship. Notwith- 
standing this, soldiers were despatched in every direction 
to call for help. I saw them start : one went towards 
Kardam and Taklakot ; a second proceeded in the direc- 
tion of Barca, and a third galloped to the west. 

My carriers were evidently preparing a coup de main as 
I watched them through an opening in the tent. They 
were busily engaged separating their blankets and clothes 
from my loads, dividing the provisions among themselves, 
and throwing aside my goods. I went out to them, pa- 
tiently made them repack the things, and cautioned them 
that I would shoot any one who attempted to revolt or 
desert. 

While the doctor and I sat down to a hearty meal, 
which rumors in camp said would be our last, Chanden 
Sing was intrusted with the preparations for war on our 
side. He cleaned the rifles with much care, and got the 
ammunition ready, for he was longing to fight. The Brah- 
min, on whose faithfulness we could also rely, remained 
cool and collected through the whole affair. He was a 
philosopher, and never worried over anything. He took 
no active part in preparing for our defence, for he feared 
not death. God alone could kill him, he argued, and all 
the matchlocks in the country together could not send a 
bullet through him unless God wished it. And if it be 
God's decree that he should die, what could be the use 
of rebelling against it ? The two converts, like good 
Christians, were more practical, and lost no time in grind- 
ing the huge blades of their kukris to the sharpness of 
a razor. 

When darkness came a guard was placed, at a little dis- 
tance off, all round our camp. It seemed likely that a 
rush on our tent with the help of my treacherous carriers 

184 



TIBETANS THREATEN AN ATTACK 

was contemplated, should an opportunity occur. One of 
us kept watch outside all through the night, and those in- 
side lay down in their clothes, with loaded rifles by them. 
I can't say that either Dr. Wilson or I felt particular- 
ly uneasy, for the Tibetan soldiers, with their clumsy 
matchlocks, long spears, and jewelled swords and dag- 
gers, inspired us with more admiration for their pictu- 
resque appearance than with fear. 

185 



CHAPTER XXIX 

ARRIVAL OF A HIGH OFFICIAL — THE BARCA TARJUM — A TEDIOUS PALAVER 
— THE TARJUM'S ANXIETY — PERMISSION TO PROCEED — A TRAITOR- 
ENTREATED TO RETRACE OUR STEPS — THIRTY ARMED HORSEMEN— 
A PRETTY SPEECH 

Quite early the next morning we were roused by the 
distant sound of tinkling horse-bells. On looking out of 
the tent I saw a long row of pack-ponies heavily laden, 
escorted by a number of mounted soldiers with match- 
locks and spears. It was evident that some high official 
was coming. This advance detachment consisted of his 
subalterns and his baggage. They took a long sweep far 
away from our tent and dismounted by the Gyanema fort. 
Other soldiers and messengers were constantly arriving in 
groups from all directions. The leader of one party, with 
a considerable escort of soldiers, was received with profuse 
salaams, and I concluded thaf he must be an important 
personage. 

After some time a message was sent to us that this new- 
comer, the Barca Tarjum, practically a potentate equal in 
rank to a king under a protectorate, wished to have the 
honor of seeing us. We replied that we were having 
our breakfast and that we would send for him when we 
wished to speak to him. Our experience had taught us 
that it was advisable to treat Tibetan officials as inferiors, 
as they were then more subdued and easier to deal with. 
At eleven we despatched a messenger to the fort to say 
we should be pleased to receive the Tarjum. He came 
immediately with a large following, a picturesque figure 

1 86 



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w 

w 
2 



• Ji 



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o 



9k- 



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K I 



\ 



THE BARCA TARJUM 

dressed in a long coat of green silk of Chinese shape, with 
large sleeves turned up, showing his arms up to the elbow; 
he had a cap similar to those worn by Chinese officials, 
and he was shod in heavy, long black boots, with large 
nails under the soles. His long, pale, angular face was 
remarkable in many ways ; it was interestingly stolid, and, 
though somewhat effeminate, had rather fine features ; un- 
mistakable signs of depravity indicated his low class of 
mind and morals. Long hair fell in loose curls down to 
his shoulders, and hanging from his left ear was an ear-ring 
of large dimensions, with malachite ornaments and a pen- 
dant. In his nervous fingers he held a small roll of Tib- 
etan material, which he used with both hands as a hand- 
kerchief to blow his nose inconsequently every time that 
he was at a loss to answer a question. The Tarjum and 
his men were profuse in their bows, and there was, as 
usual, a great display of tongues. These were, I noticed, 
of an unhealthy whitish color, caused throughout Tibet by 
excessive tea-drinking, a practice which ruins the digestion 
and furs their tongues. 

We had rugs placed outside our principal tent, and the 
doctor and I sat on one, asking the Tarjum to sit on the 
one facing us. His followers squatted around him. It 
is a well-known fact that in Tibet, if you are a " some- 
body," or if you wish people to recognize your impor- 
tance, you must have an umbrella spread over your head. 
Fortunately, the ever-prudent doctor had two in his pos- 
session ; which two of our men held over our respective 
heads. The Tarjum himself was shaded under a parasol 
of colossal dimensions, held in position by his secretary. 

In spite of the extravagant terms of friendship which 
fell from the Tarjum s lips, I was convinced, by close ob- 
servation of the man's face that his words were insincere 
and that it would be unsafe to trust him. He never 

187 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

looked us straight in the face ; his eyes were fixed on the 
ground all the time, and he spoke in a despicably affected 
manner. I did not like the man from the very first, and, 
friend or no friend, I kept my loaded rifle on my lap. 

After endless ponderous speeches, clumsy compliments, 
and tender inquiries after all relations they could possibly 
think of; after tiring parabolic sentences with fine sounds 
but no meaning; after repeated blowing of the nose and 
loud coughing, which always came on opportunely when 
we asked whether they had yet come to a conclusion as 
to what we should be allowed to do, at last, when my 
patience was nearly exhausted, our negotiations of the 
previous day were reopened. We argued for hours. We 
asked to be allowed to go on. They were still uncertain 
whether they would let us or not. To simplify matters, 
and hasten their decision before other reinforcements, ar- 
rived, the doctor applied for permission to let only eight 
of us proceed to Mansarowar. He (the doctor) himself 
would remain at Gyanema with the remainder of the 
party as a guarantee of good faith. But even this offer 
they rejected, not directly, but with hypocritical excuses 
and delays, for they thought we would not find our way, 
and that if we did we should find it very rough and the 
climate too severe ; that the brigands might attack us, and 
so on, and so on. All this was very tiresome, and there 
were signs even of a nasty side to their attitude. I de- 
cided to know what I was about. 

Still holding the rifle cocked at safety on my lap, I 
turned the muzzle of it towards the Tarjum, and purpose- 
ly let my hand slide down to the trigger. He became 
uncomfortable, and his face showed signs of wild terror. 
His eyes, until now fixed upon the ground, became first 
unsteady, and then settled fixedly, and with a look of dis- 
tress, on the muzzle of my rifle. At the same time he 

1 88 



THE TARJUM BROUGHT TO TERMS 

tried to dodge the aim, right or left, by moving his head, 
but I made the weapon follow all his movements. The 
Tarj urn's servants fully shared their master's fear. With- 
out doubt the poor fellow was in agony ; his tone of voice, 
a moment before boisterous and aggressive, now dwindled 
into the humblest intonations imaginable. With much 
meekness he expressed himself ready to please us in every 
way. 

" I see that you are good people," said he in a faint 
whisper, accompanied by a deep bow. " I cannot give, as 
I would like to do, my official sanction to your journey 
forward, but you can go if you wish. I cannot say more. 
Eight of you can proceed to the sacred Mansarowar Lake. 
The others will remain here." 

Before giving his final decision he said that he would 
prefer to have another consultation with his officers. 

We accorded this readily. 

The Tarjum then presented the doctor with a roll of 
Tibetan cloth. 

I had bathed, as usual, in the morning, and my Turkish 
towel was spread outside the tent to dry. The Tarjum, 
who showed great interest in all our things, took a par- 
ticular fancy to its knotty fabric. He sent for his child 
to see this wonderful material, and when he arrived the 
towel was placed on the youth's back as if it were a shawl. 
I at once offered it to him as a present if he would accept 
it. There were no bounds to his delight, and our rela- 
tions, somewhat strained a few minutes earlier, became 
now of the friendliest character. We invited the party 
inside our tent, and they examined everything with curi- 
osity, asking endless questions. They were now quite 
jovial and pleasant, and even occasionally amusing. Tib- 
etans have a craving for alcohol at all times, and they soon 
asked me if I had any to give them ; there was nothing 
16 189 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

they would like more. As I never carry any when travel- 
ling, I could not offer them any recognized drink ; but, not 
wishing to disappoint them, I produced a bottle of methy- 
lated spirits (which I used for my hypsometrical appara- 
tus). This they readily drank, apparently appreciating its 
throat-burning qualities, and asked for more. The Tar- 
jum complained of an ailment from which he had suffered 
for some time, and the doctor was able to give him a suit- 
able remedy, and all the other officers received small pres- 
ents when they departed. 

In the afternoon a messenger came from the Barca Tar- 
jum. He had good news for us. The Tarjum wished 
us to understand that, "as we had been so kind to him 
and his followers, he regarded us as his personal friends ; 
and as we were so anxious to visit the Mansarowar 
Lake and the great Kelas Mount, and had already ex- 
perienced many difficulties and great expense in com- 
ing so far, he agreed to eight of our party proceeding to 
the sacred spots. It was impossible for him to give an 
official consent, but he repeated again that we could go if 
we wished." 

This news naturally delighted me. Once at Kelas, I 
felt sure I could easily find some means of going farther. 

On the same evening a traitor in our camp sneaked 
from under the tent in which my men were sleeping and 
paid a visit to the Tarjum. There is no doubt that he 
told him I was not the doctor's brother, nor a Hindoo 
pilgrim. He disclosed that I was a sahib, and that I was 
on my way to Lhassa. From what I heard afterwards, it 
seemed that the Tarjum did not quite believe his inform- 
ant; but, fresh doubts arising in his mind, he sent a mes- 
sage during the night, entreating us to return the way we 
came. 

" If there is really a sahib in your party, whom you 

190 






n 

> 



> 
o 




A PRETTY SPEECH 

have kept concealed from me, and I let you go on, my 
head will be cut off by the Lhassa people. You are now 
my friends, and you will not allow this." 

"Tell the Tarjum," I replied to the messenger, " that 
he is my friend, and I will treat him as a friend." 

In the morning we found thirty horsemen fully armed 
posted some hundred yards from our tent. To proceed 
with the demoralized crowd under me, and be followed 
by this company, would certainly prove disastrous, and I 
felt again that some ruse was a necessity. 

Much to the astonishment and terror of the armed 
force and their superiors, the doctor, Chanden Sing, and 
I, rifles in hand, walked firmly towards the contingent 
of sepoys. After us came the trembling coolies. The 
Magbun and the Tarjum's officers could hardly believe 
their eyes. The soldiers quickly dismounted, and laid 
their arms down to show that they had no intention of 
fighting. We passed them without any notice. The 
Magbun ran after me. He begged me to stop one mo- 
ment. Dola was summoned to interpret his elaborate 
speech. A pair of prettily embroidered cloth boots were 
produced from the loose folds of the official's coat, and 
he offered them with the following words : 

" Though your face is sunburned and black, and your 
eyes are sore " (they were not, as a matter of fact, but I 
wore snow-spectacles), " your features tell me that you are 
of a good family, therefore you must be a high officer in 
your country. Your noble feelings also show that you 
would not have us punished for your sake, and now our 
hearts are glad to see you retrace your steps. Let me 
offer you these boots, so that your feet may not get sore 
on the long and difficult journey back to your native 
land." 

It was neatly put, though the mode of reasoning was 

191 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

peculiar. I accepted the boots with thanks. The Mag- 
bun and his guard salaamed to the ground. 

Without further parleying we left the Magbun, and, 
retracing our steps, proceeded in a west-southwest direc- 
tion, as though we had decided to turn back and leave 
the country. 



CHAPTER XXX 

SPYING OUR MOVEMENTS — DISGUISED SEPOYS — A GLOOMY OUTLOOK- 
TROUBLESOME FOLLOWERS — ANOTHER MARCH BACK — AN AMUSING 
INCIDENT 

We reached the summit of the hill and crossed to the 
other side. My men went on down the slope, but I re- 
mained, screened by a large stone, to observe with my 
telescope the folks at Gyanema. No sooner had my last 
man disappeared on the other side of the pass than the 
cavalrymen jumped into their saddles, and, raising clouds 
of dust, galloped after us. This was what I had expected. 
I hastened to rejoin my men. When down in the plain, 
I again took my telescope, and watched the sky-line of 
the hill we had just descended. Some thirty heads could 
be seen peeping over the rocks from among the boulders. 
The soldiers had evidently dismounted and were spying 
our movements. I felt annoyed that they did not openly 
follow us, if they so wished, instead of watching us from 
a distance, so I sighted my rifle to eight hundred yards, 
lay down flat, and took aim at a figure I could see more 
plainly than the others. 

The doctor snatched the rifle from my shoulder. 

14 You must not shoot," said he, with his usual calm- 
ness ; " you might kill somebody." 

44 1 only wish to teach those cowards a lesson." 

44 That is all very well. But every man in Tibet is so 
cowardly that the lesson would have to be constantly re- 
peated," answered Wilson, with his perpetual wisdom. 

I slung my rifle over my shoulder and made up my 

193 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

mind to start some other time on the cyclopean task I 
had then so nearly begun. 

When we had covered a mile or so of the plain, our 
phantomlike escort crossed the pass, and came full gallop 
down the hill. I gave orders to my men to halt, seeing 
which the soldiers also came to a dead stop. I watched 
them through the telescope. They seemed to be holding 
a discussion. At last five men rode full speed north- 
ward, probably to guard the track in that direction. 
Three men remained where they were, and the remain- 
der, as if seized by panic, galloped frantically up the 
hill again, and disappeared over the summit. 

We resumed our march. The three horsemen fol- 
lowed a course one mile south of ours, close against the 
foot of the hills, and, lying low upon their ponies' heads, 
they probably imagined that they were passing us un- 
perceived. Seeing that our bearings were for our old 
camp at Lama Chokden, they left our line and rode 
ahead of us. 

When in the evening we reached Lama Chokden, two 
shepherds came to greet us. Then another appeared. 

"Our sheep are far away," said they. "We are hun- 
gry. We are poor. Can we stop near your camp and 
pick up the food that you will throw away ?" 

" Certainly," I replied. " But mind you do not pick up 
anything else." 

These simple folk, thinking I should not know them, 
had left their ponies at the Lama Chokden guard-house, 
and, disguised as shepherds, they were now trying to in- 
gratiate themselves with us, with the object of discover- 
ing our movements and plans. They were, of course, no 
other than the three sepoys from Gyanema. 

At each step in our retreat towards the Himahlyas my 
heart became heavier and my spirits more depressed. I 

194 



GLOOMY OUTLOOK 

was full of stratagems, but to think out plans and to carry 
them into effect were two different things. 

How many times had not my schemes been upset ? How 
often had I not had to begin afresh when all seemed ready 
and in perfect working order? — that, too, when I had 
plenty of good material at my disposal to work upon. 
Now things had changed altogether for the worse. My 
chances of success, notwithstanding my incessant struggle, 
were getting smaller and smaller every day. I could not 
but feel that there must be an end eventually to the capa- 
bility and endurance of my followers and myself. It is 
hard enough to start on a difficult task, but w 7 hen you are 
well started, and have already overcome many difficulties, 
to have to come back and begin again is more than galling. 

The outlook was dark and gloomy ; I stood face to face 
with apparent failure, and uncertain of the loyalty of my 
own men. 

At this camp, for instance, the Daku (brigand), who had 
changed his disguise several times since coming in contact 
with the Tibetans, announced his immediate departure. 
The doctor, with his usual kindness, had already entreated 
him to remain, but without avail. We well knew that in 
this region, infested by dacoits, this man was only leaving 
us to recommence his late marauding habits. He would, 
in all probability, join some band, and without much 
doubt we might soon expect a visit during the darkest 
hours of the night. The Daku knew that I carried a 
large sum of money, and during the last two days his 
behavior had been more than strange. Had he come 
across some of his mates ? or had he heard from the sepoys 
that they were in the neighborhood ? 

The Daku had a bundle of his blankets strapped on 
his back in readiness for immediate departure. My men, 
distressed at this new danger, came to report it to me, 

J 95 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

I immediately sent for him. Speaking bluntly, and keep- 
ing his eyes fixed on the ground, he said, " I am going, 
sahib." 

"Where?" I inquired. 

" I have friends near here, and I am going to them." 

" Very good, go," I replied, calmly taking up my rifle. 

His load was off his shoulder in less time than it takes 
to describe the event. He resumed his work as usual. 
One or two other riotous coolies were brought back to 
reason by similar menaces. 

I heard later that a band of brigands attacked a party 
near the frontier only two days after this occurred. 

Another march back ! How painful it was to me ! Yet 
it was advisable. We went a few miles and encamped on 
the bank of a rapid stream, the Shirlangdu. From this 
point, with some difficulty and danger, it would be possible 
to climb over the mountain range during the night, and 
attempt to elude the spies and watchmen by going across 
country to Lake Mansarowar. I made up my mind to at- 
tempt this. It seemed to add to the risk to have so large 
a following as thirty men, so I decided that only four or 
five should accompany me. Going alone was impractica- 
ble, because of the difficulty of carrying sufficient food, or 
I would have by far preferred it. Nevertheless, if the 
worst came to the worst, I resolved to attempt this latter 
mode of travelling, and rely on the chance of obtaining 
food from Tibetans. 

All the loads were made ready. Articles of clothing 
and comfort, niceties in the way of food, and extras in the 
way of medicines were left behind to make room for my 
scientific instruments. 

Each pound in weight more that I dedicated to science 
meant a pound less food to take us to Lhassa. Everything 
that was not of absolute necessity had to be left. 

196 



TWO TIBETAN SPIES 

Two Tibetan spies came to camp in the afternoon, in 
the disguise, as usual, of beggars. They asked for food, 
and exacted it. Their manner was unbearably insulting. 
This was a little too much for us, and Bijesing the Johari, 
and Rubso the Christian cook were the first to enter into 
an open fight with them. They punched and kicked them, 
driving them down a steep ravine leading to a river; then, 
assisted by other men in camp, showered stones upon 
them. The unfortunate intruders, unable to wade quick- 
ly across the rapid stream, received as fine a reception as 
they deserved. 



CHAPTER XXXI 

AN ATTEMPT THAT FAILED — A RESOLUTION — A SMART SHOKA LAD — 
THE PLUCKY CHANDEN SING PROPOSES TO ACCOMPANY ME — MANSING 
THE LEPER BECOMES MY SERVANT'S SERVANT 

The hour fixed for my flight was 9 p.m. Five men had 
been induced to follow me by the offer of a handsome 
reward. 

At the hour appointed no single one of them had put 
in an appearance. I went in search of them. One man 
had purposely injured his feet and was disabled, another 
pretended to be dying, the others positively refused to 
come. They were shivering with fright and cold. 

" Kill us, sahib, if you like," they implored of me, " but 
we will not follow you." 

At 3 a.m. all attempts to get even one man to carry a 
load had proved futile. I had to abandon the idea of 
starting. 

My prospects became more gloomy than ever. An- 
other march back towards the cold and dreary pass by 
w 7 hich I had entered Tibet ! " 

" You are depressed, Mr. Landor," remarked the doctor. 

I admitted the fact. Every step backward was to me 
like a stab in the heart. I had wished to push on at all 
costs, and it was only in consideration of my good and 
kind friend, the doctor, that I had reluctantly refrained 
from making my way by force. My blood was boiling. I 
felt feverish. The cowardice of my men made them ab- 
solutely contemptible, and I could not bear even to see 
them. 

198 



WHEN STORMS COME 

Immersed in my thoughts, I walked quickly on, and 
the rugged way seemed short and easy. I found a suit- 
able spot for our next camp. Here, before me and on 
every side, stood high snowy mountains; there, in front, 
towered that same Lumpiya Pass by which I had crossed 
into Tibet with such high hopes. I detested the sight of 
it on the present occasion ; its snowy slopes seemed to 
mock at my failure. 

Whether it is that storms invariably come when one is 
depressed, or whether one gets depressed when storms 
are coming, I am not here prepared to say, but the fact 
remains that, before we had time to pitch our tents, the 
wind, which had been high all through the afternoon, in- 
creased tenfold. The clouds above were wild and threat- 
ening, and snow soon fell in feathery flakes. 

" What are you going to do ?" inquired the doctor of 
me. " I think you had better return to Garbyang, get 
fresh men, and make another start.'' 

u No, doctor. I will die rather than continue this back- 
ward march. There will be a far better chance if I go 
alone, and I have resolved to start to-night, for I am con- 
vinced that I shall find my way over the range." 

" No, no, it is impossible, Mr, Landor," cried the doctor, 
with tears in his eyes. " That must mean death to any 
one attempting it." 

I told him that I was quite determined. 

The poor doctor was dumfounded. He knew that it 
was useless to try to dissuade me. I went into the tent 
to rearrange and reduce my baggage, making a load small 
enough to carry on my back, in addition to the daily kit 
and instruments. 

While I was making preparations for my journey, 
Kachi Ram entered the tent. He looked frightened and 
perplexed. 

199 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

44 What are you doing, sir?" inquired he, hurriedly. 
" The doctor says you are going to leave alone to-night, 
cross the mountain range, and go to Lhassa by yourself." 

" Yes, that is true." 

"Oh, sir! The perils and dangers are too great, you 
cannot go." 

" I know, but I am going to try." 

" Oh, sir ! Then I will come with you." 

" No, Kachi. You will suffer too much. Go back to 
your father and mother now that you have the oppor- 
tunity." 

" No, sir; where you go, I will go. Small men never 
suffer. If they do it does not matter. Only great men's 
sufferings are worth noticing. If you suffer, I will suffer. 
1 will come." 

Kachi's philosophy touched me. I ascertained beyond 
doubt that he meant what he said, and then decided to 
take him with me. 

This was a piece of luck. Kachi Ram had five bosom 
friends among the young Shoka coolies. They were all 
friends of the Rambang, and in the evenings in camp they 
often used to join and sing weird songs in honor of the 
fair maids of their hearts, whom they had left on the other 
side of the Himahlyas. 

Kachi hurried away in a state of feverish excitement. 
He was back in a few minutes. 

" How many coolies will you take, sir?" 

" None will come." 

"Oh, I will get them. Will five do?" 

" Yes," I murmured, incredulously. 

My scepticism sustained a shock when Kachi returned, 
buoyant, saying in his peculiar English : 

" Five Shokas come, sir. Then you, sir, I, sir, five 
coolies, sir, start night-time, what clock?" 

200 



CHARACTER OF KACHI RAM 

" By Jove, Kachi," I could not help exclaiming, " you 
are a smart lad !" 

" l Smart/ sir?" inquired he, sharply, hearing a new word. 
He was most anxious to learn English, and he had a mania 
for spelling. " ' Smart !' What is meaning ? How spell?" 

" S-m-a-r-t. It means ' quick, intelligent/ " 

" Smart," he repeated solemnly, as he wrote the newly 
acquired word into a book which I had given him for the 
purpose. Kachi was undoubtedly, in spite of some small 
faults, a great character. He was a most intelligent, 
sharp, well-meaning fellow. His never -failing good- 
humor and his earnest desire to learn and to be useful 
were quite refreshing. 

My luck seemed to have turned indeed. A few min- 
utes later my bearer, quite unaware that any one would 
accompany me, entered the tent, and exclaimed in a dis- 
gusted manner: 

" Shoka crab, sahib ! Hunya log bura crab. Hazier, 
hum, do admi jaldi Lhasa gtao." (The Shokas are bad. 
The Hunyas are very bad. Your honor and I, we two 
alone, will go quickly by ourselves to Lhassa.) 

Here was another plucky and useful man anxious to 
come. He professed to have no fear of death. He was 
the type of man I wanted. How true the poor fellow's 
protestations were I learned at a later date. 

Chanden Sing was a man of strong sporting proclivi- 
ties. His happiness was complete when he could fire his 
rifle at something, though he was never known to hit the 
mark. He had been severely reprimanded and punished 
by me only a few days before for wasting several car- 
tridges on kiang (wild horse) three miles distant. Ordi- 
nary work, however, such as doing his own cooking or 
keeping my things tidy, was distasteful to him, and was 
invariably passed on to others. 

201 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Mansing the leper, being unfortunately of the same 
caste as Chanden Sing, became my servant's servant. 
The two Hindoos constantly quarrelled and fought, but 
at heart they were the best of friends. The bearer, by 
means of promises, mingled at intervals with blows, event- 
ually succeeded in inducing his protege to join in our new 
plan and face with us the unknown dangers ahead. 



CHAPTER XXXII 

"DEVIL'S CAMP" — A FIERCE SNOW-STORM — ABANDONING OUR TENTS — 
DANGERS AND PERILS IN PROSPECT — COLLECTING THE MEN — ONE 
LOAD TOO MANY ! — ANOTHER MAN WANTED AND FOUND— A PRO- 
PITIOUS NIGHT — GOOD-BYE TO WILSON — THE ESCAPE — BRIGANDS 

By eight o'clock in the evening I had collected all the 
men who had promised to follow me. They comprised my 
bearer, Kachi, and six coolies. 

We named this camp " Devil's Camp," for diabolical in- 
deed was the wind that shook our tents, not to speak of 
the snow blown into our shelters by the raging storm. 
During the night the w 7 ind grew in fury. Neither wood, 
dung, nor lichen for fuel was to be found. Our tents were 
pitched at 16,900 feet above sea-level, and to ascend to 
the summit of the range would mean a farther climb of 
two thousand feet. In such weather the difficulties of 
the ascent were increased tenfold, though for evading the 
vigilance of the Tibetan watchmen, who spied upon our 
movements, we could have no better chance than a dirty 
night like this. I arranged with the doctor that he was 
to take back to Garbyang all the baggage I had discarded 
and the men who had declined to follow me. He must 
display all our tents until in the afternoon of the next day, 
so as to let the Tibetans suppose that we were all under 
them, and give me time to make a long forced march be- 
fore they could get on our track. Hard as it would be 
for us going forward, we would take no tent except the 
small tente d'abri, weighing about four pounds. We should, 
anyhow, be unable to pitch one for several days, for fear of 

203 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

being detected by the Tibetans, who would be soon seen 
abroad in search of us. We should have to march long 
distances at night, keeping mostly on the summit of the 
range, instead of proceeding, like other travellers, along 
the valleys, and we must get what little sleep we could 
during the day, when we could hide in some secluded spot. 
The thought of seeing a fire had to be abandoned for an 
indefinite period, because, even in the remote contingency 
of our finding fuel at the great altitudes where we should 
have to camp, every one knows that a fire and a column 
of smoke can be seen at a very great distance, both by 
day and night. We pondered and discussed all these 
matters before we made a start, and, moreover, we were 
fully aware that, if the Tibetans could once lay their hands 
upon us, our numbers were too small to offer a stout re- 
sistance, and we might well give ourselves up for lost. In 
fact, taking things all round, I rather doubted whether the 
lives of my few followers and my own were worth more 
than a song from the moment of our leaving " Devil's 
Camp." 

With this full knowledge of what we were undertaking, 
we may have been foolish in starting at all, but lack of 
determination cannot in fairness be credited as one of our 
faults. 

The thoughtful doctor had brought with him from our 
last camp a few lichens, with which he was now attempt- 
ing to light a fire, to cook me a few chapatis before 
leaving. Alas ! four hours' hard work and an equal num- 
ber of boxes of matches failed to produce the semblance 
of a flame. 

At midnight I sent Chanden Sing and Kachi to collect 
the men. Two came trembling into the tent ; the others 
could not be roused. I went myself and took them, one 
by one, to their loads. They were all crying like children. 

204 



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7S 




FACING A BLIZZARD 

It was then that I discovered that in the haste and confu- 
sion I had made one load too many. Here was a dilemma! 
Everything was ready and propitious for our flight, and a 
delay at this juncture was fatal. At any cost, I must have 
another man. 

The moans and groans in the coolies' tent, when I went 
in search of another volunteer, were pitiful. You might 
have thought that they were all going to die within a few 
minutes, and that they were now in their last agonies, 
all because of the terror of being picked out to follow me. 

At last, after endless trouble, threats, and promises, 
Bijesing the Johari was persuaded to come. But the 
load was too heavy for him ; he would only carry half. To 
save trouble, I agreed I would carry the other half myself 
in addition to my own load. 

We put out our hurricane-lantern, and at 2 p.m., when 
the gale was raging at its height, driving the grit and snow 
like spikes into our faces, when the wind and cold seemed 
to penetrate with biting force to the marrow of our bones, 
when, as it seemed, all the gods were giving vent to their 
anger by putting every obstacle in our way, a handful of 
silent men, half frozen and staggering, left the camp to face 
the blizzard. I ordered my men to keep close together, and 
we made immediately for the mountain-side, taking care 
to avoid the places where we supposed the Tibetan spies 
were posted. 

We could not have selected a more suitable night for 
our escape. It was so dark that we could only see a few 
inches in front of our noses. The doctor, silent and with 
a swelling heart, accompanied me for a couple of hundred 
yards. I urged him to return to the tent. He stopped 
to grasp my hand, and in a broken voice the good man 
bade me farewell and God-speed. 

" The dangers of your journey," whispered Wilson, " are 

205 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

so great and so numerous that God alone can guide you 
through. When I think of the cold, hunger, and hard- 
ships you will have to endure, I can but tremble for you." 

" Good-bye, doctor," said I. 

" Good-bye," he repeated, "good — " and his voice failed 
him. 

Two or three steps and the darkness separated us, but 
his touching words of farewell rang and echoed in my ears, 
as with sadness I remembered the loyalty and cheerful 
kindness of this good friend. The journey towards Lhassa 
had recommenced in grim earnest. In a short while our 
ears, fingers, and toes were almost frozen, and the fast- 
driving snow beat mercilessly against our faces, making 
our eyes ache. We proceeded like so many blind people, 
speechless and exhausted, rising slowly higher on the 
mountain range, and feeling our way with our feet. As 
we reached greater altitudes it grew still colder, and 
the wind became more piercing. Every few minutes 
we were compelled to halt and sit close together in 
order to keep warm and get breath, as the air was so 
rarefied that we could barely proceed under our heavy 
loads. 

We heard a whistle, and sounds like distant voices. My 
men collected round me, whispered " Dakus ! dakus /" 
(Brigands! brigands!) and then threw themselves flat on 
the snow. I loaded my rifle and went ahead, but it was 
vain to hope to pierce the obscurity. I hearkened. Yet 
another shrill whistle ! 

My Shokas were terrified. The sound seemed to 
come from straight in front of us. We slightly altered 
our course, winning our way upward slowly and steadily, 
until we found at sunrise we were near the mountain- 
top. It was still snowing hard. One final effort brought 
us to the plateau on the summit. 

206 



AN EXPOSED CAMP 

Here we felt comparatively safe. Thoroughly ex- 
hausted, we deposited our burdens on the snow, and laid 
ourselves down in a row close to one another to keep 
ourselves warm, piling on the top of us all the blankets 
available. 



CHAPTER XXXIII 

SOUTHEAST WIND— HUNGRY AND HALF FROZEN — LAKES AT 18,960 FEET 
ABOVE SEA- LEVEL — COLD FOOD AT HIGH ALTITUDES — BURIED IN 
SNOW — MANSING'S SUFFERINGS— FUEL AT LAST 

At 1 p.m. we woke up, drenched to the skin, the sun 
having thawed the thick coating of snow over us. This 
camp was at 18,000 feet. The wind from the southeast 
cut like a knife, and we suffered from it, not only on this 
occasion, but every day during the whole time we were 
in Tibet. It begins to blow with great fierceness and 
regularity at one o'clock in the afternoon, and it is only 
at about eight in the evening that it sometimes abates 
and gradually ceases. Frequently, however, the wind, in- 
stead of dropping at this time, increases in violence, 
blowing with terrible vehemence during the whole night. 
As we were making ready to start again, with limbs 
cramped and stiff, the sky again became suddenly covered 
with heavy gray clouds, and fresh snow fell. There was 
no possibility of making a fire, so we started hungry and 
half frozen, following a course of 70° (b. m.). We waded 
up to our waists through a freezingly cold stream, and, 
climbing steadily higher and higher for six miles, we at 
last reached another and loftier plateau to the northeast 
of the one where we had camped in the morning. The 
altitude was 18,960 feet, and we were surprised to find 
four lakes of considerable size close to one another on 
this high table-land. The sun, breaking for a moment 
through the clouds, shone on the snow-covered tops of 

208 



COLD FOOD AT HIGH ALTITUDES 

the surrounding mountains, silvering the water of the 
lakes, and making a beautiful and spectacular picture, 
wild and fascinating in effect. 

Hunger and exhaustion prevented full appreciation of 
the scene ; nothing could stand in the way of quickly 
finding a suitable place to rest our weak and jaded bod- 
ies, under the shelter of the higher hills round the pla- 
teau, or in some depression in the ground. I was anx- 
ious to push across the plateau, and descend on the 
northeast side to some lower altitude where we should 
more probably find fuel, but my men, half starved and 
fagged, could go no farther. Their wet loads were con- 
siderably heavier than usual, they panted terribly owing 
to the great altitude, and no sooner had we come to a 
partially sheltered spot between the larger lake and its 
most eastern neighboring sheet of water than they all 
collapsed and were unable to proceed. I was much con- 
cerned about them, as they refused to take any cold food, 
saying it would cause their death. I was really at a loss 
to see how they could recover sufficient strength for the 
next day's marching. Eventually, by personally pledg- 
ing them that they would not die, I persuaded them to 
eat a little satoo and ghur. Unfortunately, no sooner had 
they eaten some of it, mixed with cold water, than nearly 
all were seized with violent pains in their stomachs, from 
which they suffered for the greater part of the night. 

There is no doubt that experience had taught them 
that eating cold food at great altitudes is more dangerous 
than eating no food at all, and I regretted my ill-timed, if 
kindly meant, advice. One is apt to judge other people 
by one's self, and personally I never felt any difference 
whether my food was cold or hot. 

Soon after sunset the cold was intense. It was still 
snowing hard, and our wet garments and blankets were 

209 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

now freezing. I lighted a small spirit-lamp, round which 
we all sat close together and covered over with our 
frozen wraps. I even attempted to cook on the flame 
some concentrated broth, but, owing to the high altitude, 
the water was a long time losing its chill, apart from 
boiling, and when it was just getting tepid the flame 
went out, and I could afford no more spirits of wine to 
light it again ; so the cooking had to be abandoned, and 
as the night grew colder and colder we huddled together 
under our respective blankets in a vain attempt to sleep. 
We had made a protecting wall with our baggage, and 
my men covered their heads and everything with their 
blankets ; but I never could adopt their style of sleeping, 
as it seemed to suffocate me. I always slept with my 
head uncovered, for not only was it more comfortable, 
but I wished to be on the alert should we at any time be 
surprised by Tibetans. My men moaned, groaned, and 
chattered their teeth convulsively during the night. I 
woke many times with a bad pain in my ears from frost- 
bite ; my eyes, too, suffered as the eyelashes became cov- 
ered with icicles. Every time I tried to open them there 
was an uncomfortable feeling as if the eyelashes were 
being torn off, for the slit of the eye became fast frozen 
directly the lids were closed. 

At last the morning came! The night had seemed 
endless. When I tried to raise the blanket in order to 
sit up, it seemed of an extraordinary weight and stiffness. 
No wonder! It was frozen hard, and as rigid as card- 
board, covered over with a foot of snow. The thermom- 
eter during the night had gone down to 24°. I called my 
men. They were hard to wake, and they, too, were bur- 
ied in snow. 

" Uta ! uta ! uta /" (Get up ! get up ! get up !) I called, shak- 
ing one by one, and brushing off as much snow as I could. 

210 



BURIED IN SNOW 

" Bar 'off bahut" (There is much snow) remarked one 
as he put his nose outside his blanket and rubbed his eyes, 
smarting from the white glare around us. " Salaam, sa- 
hib/' added he, as, having overcome his first surprise, 
he perceived me, and he waved his hand gracefully up to 
his forehead. 

The others behaved in a similar manner. Kachi was, 
as usual, the last one to wake. 

" Oh, Kachi," I shouted, "get up !" 

" Oh, bahiyoh /" (Oh, father!) yawned he, stretching his 
arms. Half asleep, half awake, he looked round as if in a 
trance, muttering incoherent words. 

" Good-morning, sir. Oh, much snow. Oh, look, sir, 
two kiangs there! What is 'kiang' in English?" 

" Wild horse." 

" ' Wild ' you spell w-i-l-d?" 

11 Yes. 

Here the note-book was produced from under his pil- 
low and the word registered in it. 

Odd creatures these Shokas ! The average European, 
half starved and frozen, would hardly give much thought 
to exact spelling. 

Poor Mansing the leper suffered terribly. He groaned 
through the whole night. I had given him one of my 
wrappers, but his circulation seemed suspended. His 
face was gray and cadaverous, with deep lines drawn by 
suffering, and his feet were so frozen that for some time 
he could not stand. 

Again the Shokas would eat nothing, for snow was still 
falling. We started towards the northeast. After a mile 
of flat we began a steep descent over unpleasant loose 
debris and sharp rocks. The progress was rapid but very 
painful. Scouring the country below with my telescope, 
I perceived shrubs and lichens far down in the valley to 

211 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the northeast, and also a tent and some sheep. This was 
unfortunate, for we had to alter our course in order not 
to be seen. We again climbed up to the top of the plateau 
and rounded unperceived the mountain summit, striking 
a more easterly route. Towards sunset we began our 
descent from the latter point, and we crossed the river 
with no great difficulty. Having selected a nicely shel- 
tered depression in the ground, we pitched my little tente 
d'abri there, by the side of a pond of melted snow. With 
natural eagerness we all set out collecting lichens and 
shrubs for our fires, and each man carried into camp 
several loads of the drier fuel. In a moment there were 
three big fires blazing, and not only were we able to cook 
a specially abundant dinner and drown our past troubles 
in a bucketful of boiling tea, but we also managed to dry 
our clothes and blankets. The relief of this warmth was 
wonderful, and in our comparative happiness we forgot 
the hardships and sufferings we had so far encountered. 
With the exception of a handful of satoo, this was the first 
solid meal we had had for forty-eight hours. In those 
two days we had travelled twenty miles, each of us carry- 
ing a weight averaging considerably over sixty pounds. 

We were at 16,500 feet, which seemed quite a low eleva- 
tion after our colder and loftier camping-grounds. The 
reaction was quite pleasant, and for myself I contem- 
plated our future plans and possibilities with better hope. 
The outlook had changed from our deepest depression to 
a condition of comparative cheerfulness and content. 



CHAPTER XXXIV 

DACOITS — NO NONSENSE ALLOWED — A MUCH-FREQUENTED REGION — 
A PLATEAU — THE GYANEMA-TAKLAKOT TRACK — A DANGEROUS SPOT 
— SOLDIERS WAITING FOR US — BURYING OUR BAGGAGE — OUT OF 
PROVISIONS— A FALL INTO THE GAKKON RIVER— A BRIGHT IDEA — 
NETTLES OUR DIET 

In front of us, to the northeast, was a high mountain, 
then, farther towards the east, a narrow valley between 
two hill ranges, while at 238 (b. m.) a river passed through 
a picturesque gorge in the direction of the Mangshan 
Mountain. 

It was necessary for me to proceed along the valley to 
the east, as we should thus save ourselves much trouble, 
time, and exertion, though there would be some risk of 
our meeting Tibetans, especially bands of dacoits, w T ith 
whom this part of Nari Khorsum* is infested. We had, 
therefore, to proceed cautiously, especially as my Shokas 
seemed no less timid and afraid of these folks. We had 
hardly gone half a mile over the undulating country, and 
I had stopped behind my men to take some observations 
with my prismatic compass, when my carriers suddenly 
threw themselves flat on the ground and began to retreat, 
crawling on hands and knees. 

" Dakti! Dakuf" (Brigands! brigands!) they whispered 
as I got near them. 

It was too late. We had been seen, and a number of 
dacoits, armed with matchlocks and swords, came rapid- 

* Nari Khorsum — name of that province. 
213 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

ly towards us. It has always been my experience that, 
in such cases, the worst thing to do is to run away, for 
nothing encourages a man more than to see that his op- 
ponent is afraid of him. I therefore loaded my Mann- 
licher, and my bearer did likewise with the Martini- 
Henry. I gave orders to the Shokas to squat down by 




SHEEP CARRYING LOAD 



their respective loads and not stir an inch. We two 
strolled towards the fast-approaching band, now less than 
a hundred yards distant. I shouted to them to stop, and 
Chanden Sing signalled that they must go back ; but 
they took no notice of our warnings, and came on all the 
faster towards us. Undoubtedly they thought that we 
were only Shoka traders, and looked, from experience, to 
find an easy prey. Making ready to rush us as soon as 
they got near enough, they separated with the obvious 
intention of attacking us on all sides. 

" Dushu ! Dushu /" (Go back! Go back!) I cried 

214 



DACOITS PUT TO FLIGHT 

angrily at them, raising my rifle to my shoulder and taking 
a steady aim at the leader. Chanden Sing followed suit 
with one of the others, and this seemed to have a salutary 
effect on them, for they immediately made a comical sa- 
laam and took to their heels, Chanden Sing and I pur- 
suing them for some distance so as to get them well out 
of our way. Having occupied a prominent position on a 
small mound, we discovered that a short way off they had 
a number of mates and some three thousand sheep, pre- 
sumably their last loot. We signalled that they must 
get away from our course, and eventually, driving their 
booty before them, they scurried off in the direction I 
indicated. When they were well clear of us, and my 
Shokas, who thought their last hour had come, had 
partly recovered from their fright, we proceeded on our 
journey, entering the narrow valley between the two hill 
ranges. That we were now in a much -frequented re- 
gion could be plainly seen from the numerous camping- 
grounds alongside the stream. But our success of the 
morning had raised our spirits, and we stepped out 
cheerily, keeping to the left bank. A steepish climb 
brought us to a plateau at an altitude of 16,400 feet, 
from which we obtained a fine view of the snow range 
running from east to west from the Mangshan Moun- 
tain to the Lippu Pass, and beyond to the northeast the 
four lofty peaks of Nimo Nangil, 25,360 feet, 22,200 feet, 
22,850 feet, 22,670 feet. The highest peaks were at 84°, 
92°, 1 1 7 (b. m.). This plateau sloped gently, and was 
broken by many deep crevasses, conveying the water-flow 7 
down into the Gakkon River. 

On the lower portion of this plateau, and then along 
the course of the river, a track ran from Gyanema to 
Taklakot via Kardam and Dogmar, and another seldom- 
frequented track to Mangshan, south -southwest of this 

215 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

place. The edge of the plateau was 15,800 feet above 
sea-level, and the river 550 feet lower. 

This was for us a very dangerous spot, since, no doubt, 
by this time the Tibetans must be aware that I had es- 
caped and was well on my way into their country. I 
knew that soldiers and spies must be guarding all the 
tracks and searching for us. This thoroughfare, being 
more frequented than the others, was all the more inse- 
cure, and we had to display great caution in order to 
avoid detection. In Tibet, I may here note, the atmos- 
phere is so clear that moving objects can be plainly seen 
at exceptionally long distances. I scoured the country 
with my telescope, but I could see no one, so we went on. 
However, my men considered it safer to descend into 
one of the numerous creeks, where we should be less ex- 
posed, but we had hardly reached the border of it when 
we heard noises rising from the valley below. 

Crawling on our stomachs, my bearer and I peeped 
over the edge of the plateau. Some five hundred feet 
below was a Tibetan encampment, with a number of yaks 
and ponies grazing. Unnoticed, I watched them for 
some time. There were several soldiers, most probably 
posted there on the lookout for me. With my glass I 
recognized some of the Gyanema men. We deemed it 
advisable to find a spot where we could hide until night 
came. Then, making a detour, we descended to the 
river, 15,250 feet, scrambled across in the dark, and made 
our way up a narrow gorge between high cliffs until we 
came to a well-hidden spot, where I called a halt. Fol- 
lowed by my men, I climbed up from rock to rock on the 
cliff to our left, and found a small natural platform, shel- 
tered by a huge bowlder projecting over it. This seemed 
a safe enough spot for us to stop. We dared not put up 
a tent, and we took the precaution of burying all our 

216 



OUT OF PROVISIONS 

baggage in case of a surprise during the night. Un- 
hampered, we should at any moment be able to hide our- 
selves away from our pursuers or run before them, and 
we could always come back afterwards for our things if 
an opportunity offered itself. 

And now, just as everything seemed to be running 
smoothly, I made a- terrible discovery. At this stage of 
the journey, when it was important for me to move very 
rapidly, I found that we were out of provisions. This 
was indeed an unpleasant surprise, for before leaving the 
larger body of my expedition I had given orders to my 
men to take food for ten days. The doctor, who had 
been deputed to see to this, had assured me that the 
loads contained quite enough to last us over that length 
of time, and now for some unaccountable reason we 
had only sufficient food for one meagre meal. More- 
over, I discovered that we had only a few grains of salt 
left. 

" What have you done with it ?" I inquired, angrily, as 
it immediately flashed across my mind that there had 
been foul play among my carriers. I had ordered each 
man to take half a seer (one pound) of salt. 

" Yes, sahib, but we forgot to take it," said the men in 
a chorus. 

After the terrible hardships and fatigue we had gone 
through, and the anxiety and difficulty of carrying on my 
surveying, photography, sketching, writing, collecting, 
etc., under conditions of unusual discomfort and risk, it 
was indeed a hard blow to me to see all my plans thus 
unexpectedly frustrated, for we were still three or four 
days' journey from Mansarowar, where I relied on getting 
fresh supplies. Having come thus far, should I be com- 
pelled now to go back or give in, and be captured by 
the Tibetan soldiers whom I had so successfully evaded? 

217 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Though not usually much affected by physical pain, I 
unfortunately suffer greatly under any mental stress. I 
felt quite ill and depressed, and, to add bodily discomfort 
to my moral sufferings, was the fact that I had slipped, 
while jumping in semi - darkness from stone to stone 
across the Gakkon River, and had fallen flat into about 
four feet of water. The wind was very high at the time, 
and the thermometer down to 26°, so that, sitting in my 
wet clothes to discuss our present situation with my men, 
I suddenly became so cold, shivery, and exhausted that I 
thought I was about to collapse altogether. My usual 
good spirits, which had done much towards carrying me 
so far, seemed extinguished ; my strength failed me en- 
tirely, and a high fever set in, increasing in violence so 
fast that, notwithstanding my desperate struggle not to 
give in, I became almost delirious. With my teeth chat- 
tering and my temperature at its highest, I saw all my 
troubles assume an exaggerated form, and failure seemed 
inevitable. The more I ransacked my brain the more 
hopeless seemed our position, until, when I was almost in 
despair, an expedient suddenly flashed across my mind — 
an idea more adapted for romance, perhaps, than real life, 
yet not, I hoped, impossible to be carried into execution. 
Four of my men should go disguised, two as traders and 
two as beggars, into the Takla # fort, and purchase food 
from my enemies. We, remaining in camp, would in the 
mean time keep well hidden until they returned. I spoke 
to my followers, and, after some easily conceivable reluc- 
tance, four Shokas undertook to perform the daring duty. 
Discovery would mean to them the loss of their heads, 
probably preceded by cruel tortures of all kinds ; so, 
though they eventually betrayed me, I cannot help giving 

* Takla khar or Taklakot— Takla fort. 
218 



BREAKFASTING ON NETTLES 

them credit for the pluck and fidelity they displayed in 
the present emergency. 

During the night my men were extremely good to me. 
We did not sleep for fear of being surprised by the Tib- 
etan soldiers, and we passed hour after hour listening to 
Shoka stories of brigands and Tibetan tortures, terrible 
enough not only to keep us awake, but to make every 
hair on our heads stand on end. Early in the morning, 
when it grew light, we gathered a quantity of nettles, 
which were to be found in profusion at this camp, and, 
having boiled them in different fashions, we made of them 
a hearty if not an appetizing meal. They did not seem 
very unpalatable at the time, only it was unfortunate that 
we had no more salt, for that would have added to the 
digestibility of our prickly diet. We supplied the defi- 
ciency by mixing with them a double quantity of pepper, 
and it was a relief to know that, while nettles existed near 
our camp, we should at least not die of starvation. 

219 



CHAPTER XXXV 

ALL THAT REMAINED OF MY MEN'S PROVISIONS — THE PLAN TO ENTER 
THE FORT— APPEARANCE OF YAKS— A BAND OF BRIGANDS — ERECTING 
FORTIFICATIONS — CHANGES IN THE TEMPERATURE — SOLDIERS IN 
SEARCH OF US 

The food supply for my men was now reduced in all 
to four pounds of flour, two pounds of rice, and two 
pounds of satoo. This we gave to the four men who 
were to attempt to enter Taklakot, for their road would 
be long and fatiguing. For us there were plenty of net- 
tles to fall back upon. 

I carefully instructed the four Shokas how to enter the 
Tibetan fort one by one in their disguises, and purchase, 
in small quantities at a time, the provisions we required. 
When a sufficient amount was obtained to make a load, 
a man should immediately start towards our camp, and 
the others were to follow separately for a few marches, 
when at a given spot they would all four meet again and 
return to us. It was exciting work to prepare the differ- 
ent disguises and arrange for everything, and at last, after 
repeated good-byes and words of encouragement, the four 
messengers left on their perilous errand. All seemed 
very quiet round us, so quiet that I unburied my sextant 
and artificial horizon, and was taking observations for 
longitude as well as for latitude (by double altitudes, as 
the angle was too great to be measured at noon), when, to 
our dismay, a herd consisting of over a hundred yaks ap- 
peared on the pass north of our camp and slowly ad- 
vanced towards us. Were we discovered? Were the 

220 



A NARROW ESCAPE 

Tarjum's men coming, preceded by their animals? No 
time was to be lost; instruments and blankets were quick- 
ly cleared away and hidden, and then, crawling up tow- 
ards the animals, who had stopped on perceiving us, we 
threw stones at them in order to drive them down the 
next creek. As luck would have it, we were just in time 
to do this, for from our hiding-place on the summit of the 
pass we could see, on the other side, a number of Tib- 
etans following the yaks we had driven away. They 
passed only a couple of hundred yards below us, evident- 
ly quite unconscious of our presence. They were sing- 
ing, and apparently looking for somebody's tracks, for 
they often stooped to examine the ground. Later in the 
afternoon I went to reconnoitre down the Gyanema road, 
and in the hope of watching, unseen, the Tibetans who 
passed on their way to and from Taklakot. I saw no 
soldiers, but a strong band of Jogpas (brigands), driving 
before them thousands of sheep and yaks, was an interest- 
ing sight. They all rode ponies, and seemed to obey 
their leader very smartly, when in a hoarse voice, and 
never ceasing to turn his prayer- wheel, he muttered 
orders. They went briskly along in fine style, women as 
well as men riding their ponies astride. The men had 
matchlocks and swords, and each pony carried, besides its 
rider, bags of food slung behind the saddle. I watched 
the long procession from behind some rocks, and felt 
somewhat relieved when the last horseman, who passed 
only some twenty yards from me, rode away with the rest 
of the caravan. I retraced my steps, and, judging that 
this camp was not quite so safe as I had at first supposed, 
I proceeded, with the aid of my men, to erect a rough in- 
trenchment and wall round our platform, along the rock 
under which we lived. These bulwarks answered the 
double purpose of sheltering us from the sight of the Tib- 

221 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

etans and of acting as fortifications in case of a night at- 
tack. All our things were buried a little way above our 
camp. 

Another long, dreary day had elapsed. We had used 
our last grain of salt ; and yet another day on nettles alone; 
and a third day and a fourth on the same diet ! How 
sick we got of nettles ! The days seemed endless as, lying 
flat on a peak above our camp, I remained hour after hour 
scanning with my telescope the long plateau above the 
Gakkon River in search of our returning messengers. 
Every time I perceived men in the distance my heart 
leaped, but on focusing them with my glass they turned 
out to be Jogpas (bandits), or Dogpas (nomad tribes of 
smugglers), or travelling Humlis or Jumlis, on their way 
to Gyanema and Gartok. And how many times did we 
not listen and then anxiously peep through the fissures in 
our fortifications when some unusual noise struck our ears ! 
As time went on, and they did not put in an appearance, 
we began to entertain doubts as to their safety — or would 
they betray us and never return ? Or, as was more likely, 
had they been caught by the Jong Pen (the master of the 
fort), and been imprisoned and tortured ? 

My bearer, who was somewhat of a don vivant, declined 
to eat any more food, as he said it was better not to eat at 
all than to eat the same thing constantly. He swore he 
could fast for ten days, and he made up for want of food 
by sleeping. 

My fortified abode was comfortable enough during the 
morning, when the sun shone on it, though often it got so 
warm that we had to abandon it in the middle of the day, 
when the thermometer registered as much as 120°, 122°, 
and even 124°. From 1 p.m. till 10 at night a bitter wind 
blew* from the southeast, and seemed to get right into our 
bones; so cold was it that the temperature suddenly 

222 




y 



ifff ^% 



.♦'*"^^ 






BEHIND OUR BULWARKS 



BEHIND OUR BULWARKS 

dropped down to 6o°, and even lower, the moment the sun 
disappeared behind the mountains, and continued to fall 
as low as 40°, 34°, and 32 — the minimum during the night. 
One night we had a terrible gale and a snow-storm. Such 
was the force of the wind that our wall was blown down 
upon us as we slept in its shelter, and the hours we had 
dedicated to rest had to be spent in repairing the damage 
done. On the following morning we were gathering 
nettles for our meal, when we heard the distant tinkling 
of fast-approaching horse-bells. We quickly put out the 
fires, hid our things, and hastened behind our intrench- 
ment. I seized my rifle ; Chanden Sing loaded the Mar- 
tini. A Shoka who was too far off to reach our fortified 
abode in time screened himself behind some rocks. In 
the nick of time ! Half a dozen sepoys with matchlocks, 
to which were attached red flags, slung over their shoulders, 
were cantering gayly up the hill-side only a few yards in 
front of us. They were undoubtedly searching for me, 
judging by the way they looked in every direction, but 
fortunately they never turned towards the castle walls that 
concealed us. They were expecting, I presume, to see a 
large European tent in one of the valleys, and never even 
dreamed that we should be where we were. We covered 
them well with our rifles, but we had no occasion to fire. 
They rode on, and the sound of their horse -bells grew 
fainter and fainter as they disappeared behind the pass. 
To be sure, these horsemen could only be soldiers de- 
spatched by the Tarjum to guard this track. They were 
now probably on their way back to him, satisfied that the 
sahib was not to be found in that part of the country. 

223 



CHAPTER XXXVI 

" TERROR CAMP" — TWO MORE MESSENGERS LEAVE CAMP— A TRIBE OF 
DOGPAS — A STRANGE SAHIB — OUR MESSENGERS RETURN FROM TAK- 
LAKOT — THE ACCOUNT AND ADVENTURES OF THEIR MISSION— IN 
GREAT DISTRESS — TWO FAKIRS WHO SUFFERED THROUGH ME — FIVE 
HUNDRED RUPEES OFFERED FOR MY HEAD — THE SHOKAS WANT TO 
ABANDON ME— A PLOT— HOW IT FAILED 

We named this spot " Terror Camp," for many and 
horrible were the experiences that befell us here. Another 
weary day dragged slowly to its close, and there was still 
no sign of the messengers' return. Two men volunteered 
to go into Kardam, a settlement some miles off, and try 
to obtain food from the Tibetans. One of them had a friend 
at this place, and he thought he could get from him suf- 
ficient provisions to enable us to go on a few days longer. 

They started, disguised as pilgrims, a disguise not dif- 
ficult to assume, for their clothes were falling to pieces 
owing to the rough marching we had done of late. They 
were away the whole day, and only returned late at night, 
having an amusing tale to tell. Meeting a tribe of Dog- 
pas, they had boldly entered their camp, asking to purchase 
food. Unfortunately the Dogpas had not sufficient for 
themselves, and could not spare any. Incidentally my 
men were informed that Lando Plenki — the name the 
Tibetans had given me — had taken a large army of men 
into Tibet, and that great excitement prevailed at Takla- 
kot as well as at other places, owing to the fact that the 
sahib had the extraordinary power of making himself in- 
visible when the Tibetan soldiers were in his vicinity. He 

224 



PAINFUL UNCERTAINTY 

had been reported as having been seen in many places in 
Tibet; soldiers had been despatched in all directions to 
capture him. His tracks had several times been discov- 
ered and followed, and yet he could nevei be found. Mes- 
sengers had been hastily sent out from Taklakot to Lhassa 
(sixteen days' journey), and to Gartok, a great bazaar in 
West Tibet, asking for soldiers to assist in the capture of 
this strange invader, who was also said to have the power 
of walking on the water when crossing the rivers and of 
flying over mountains when he chose. When I recalled 
our struggles and sufferings in climbing over the moun- 
tains and in crossing the streams on our journey, this ac- 
count of myself given by the Tibetans, and now repeated 
to me, struck me as almost cruelly ironical. Anyhow, I 
was pleased that the Tibetans credited me with such su- 
pernatural powers, for it could hardly fail to be an ad- 
vantage in keeping them from getting to too close quar- 
ters with us. 

Three more days had to be spent in a state of painful 
uncertainty and anxiety regarding the fate ot our mes- 
sengers to Taklakot. On the night of the 3d we had re- 
tired to our fortress in despair, fearing that they had been 
captured and probably beheaded. It was 10 p.m., and we 
were worn out and ready to turn in ; our fire down below 
at the bottom of the creek was slowly dying out, and 
nature around us was still and silent, w 7 hen I suddenly 
heard sounds of approaching steps. We listened, peep- 
ing through the fissures in our wall. Were these Tib- 
betans trying to surprise us in our sleep, or could they 
be our men returning at last ? 

We closely watched the gorge from which the sounds 
came, faint sounds of voices and of footsteps. Silent as 
we were, there were not wanting signs of the nervous ex- 
citement of my men. At last four staggering figures 

22s 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

crawled cautiously into camp, and we could not even then 
discern in the dim light whether these were our messen- 
gers or not. 

" Kuan hai?" (Who is there ?) I shouted. 

" Dola !" replied a voice, and instantly we gave them a 
joyful and hearty greeting. But our happiness was not 
to last long. The men did not respond. They seemed 
quite exhausted and apparently terrified. I asked them 
to explain the cause of their distress, but, sobbing and em- 
bracing my feet, they showed great disinclination to tell 
me. Grave, indeed, was the news they brought, presag- 
ing much trouble in store. 

" Your days are numbered, sahib," at last cried Dola. 
" It is impossible for you to get out of this country alive; 
they will kill you, and the Jong Pen of Taklakot says that 
he must have your head at all costs." 

" Do not look so far ahead, Dola," I replied, trying to 
calm him, " but tell me first how you reached Taklakot." 

"Oh, sahib, we followed your plan. We suffered much 
on the road, as the marches were long and severe, and we 
had very little food. We walked day and night for two 
days, keeping away from the track, and hiding whenever 
we saw any one. When we got near the Tibetan fort we 
saw at the foot of the hill a few tents of the Tinker and 
Chongur Shokas from Nepal. None of the Biassi or 
Chaudassi Shokas had been allowed to enter Tibet owing 
to the Jong Pen's anger with them regarding his claims 
for Land Revenue. There was a guard day and night at 
the river, and a sharp lookout was kept to stop and arrest 
anybody entering the country. Two fakirs, who were on 
a pilgrimage to the sacred Mansarowar, unaware of the 
dangers, had crossed over the Lippu Pass, and had pro- 
ceeded down to Taklakot, where they were immediately 
seized and accused of being you, sahib, in disguise. As 

226 



MY MESSENGERS ARRESTED 

the Tibetans were not quite certain as to which of the two 
was the real sahib, they severely punished both, beating 
them almost to death. What became of them afterwards 
we were unable to learn. Anyhow, the Tibetans subse- 
quently found out that you had entered Tibet by another 
pass, and soldiers have been sent in every direction to 
look for you. 

" No sooner did we appear at Taklakot," sobbed Dola, 
11 than we were pounced upon, knocked about, and ar- 
rested. They cross-examined us closely. We professed 
to be Johari traders, who had run out of food, and had 
made for Taklakot to buy provisions. They beat us and 
I treated us badly, until your friend Zeniram, the head vil- 
lage man of Chongur (in Nepal), came to our rescue and 
gave thirty rupees surety for us. We were then allowed 
to remain in his tent, guarded by Tibetan soldiers. We 
secretly purchased from him and packed the provisions, 
and at night Zeniram succeeded in decoying the soldiers 
that were guarding us into his tent, and gave them chokti 
to drink until they became intoxicated. One by one we 
four succeeded in escaping with our loads. For three 
nights we marched steadily back, concealing ourselves 
during the day for the sake of safety. Now we have re- 
turned to you, sahib." 

Dola paused for a minute or two. 

" Sahib," he continued, " we were told in Taklakot that 
over a thousand soldiers are searching for you every- 
where, and more are expected from Lhassa and Sigatz, # 
whither the Jong Pen has hastily sent messengers. They 
fear you, sahib, but they have orders from Lhassa to capt- 
ure you at all costs. They say that you can make your- 
self invisible when you like, and exorcisms are made and 



1 



* Sigatz, usually called " Shigatze " by English people. 
19 227 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

prayers offered daily so that in future you may be seeu 
and arrested. Once caught, they will have no pity on you, 
and you will be beheaded, for the Jong Pen is angry with 
you owing to the defiant messages you sent him from Gar^ 
byang. He has given orders to the soldiers to bring you 
back dead or alive, and whoever brings your head will re- 
ceive a reward of five hundred rupees." 

" I had no idea that my head was so valuable," I could 
not help exclaiming. " I shall take great care of it in the 
future." 

As a matter of fact, five hundred rupees in Tibet repre- 
sents a fortune, and the man possessing it is a very rich 
man. 

But my men were not in a laughing mood, and they 
looked upon the whole affair as very serious. 

I gave a handsome backshish to the four men who had 
brought the provisions, but that did not prevent all the 
Shokas declaring that the danger was so great that they 
must leave me there and then. Appeals are useless on 
such occasions, and so I simply stated that I should shoot 
any man attempting to leave camp. Having now pro- 
visions for ten days, I informed them that we must at 
once push on. 

Sulky and grumbling, they left our fortified corner and 
went below to the creek. They said they preferred sleep- 
ing down there. I suspected them, however, and I sat 
up watching them and listening instead of sleeping. My 
bearer rolled himself up in his blanket, and, as usual, was 
soon asleep. The Shokas lighted a fire, sat round it, and 
with their heads close together held an excited council 
in semi-whispers. In the heated discussion some spoke 
louder than they imagined, and, the night being particu- 
larly still and the place well adapted for carrying sound, I 
overheard words which put me on the alert, for I soon con- 

228 



i 



A PLOT 

vinced myself that they were arranging to sell my head — 
yes, and to divide the money. 

The men got closer together * and spoke so faintly 
that I could hear no more. Then they each in turn 
placed one hand above the other along a stick, until the 
end of it was reached ; each man then passed it to his 
neighbor, who went through the same form — a compli- 
cated manner of drawing lots, common among the 
Shokas. Eventually the man selected by fate drew from 
a load a lar^e Gourkha kukri and removed its scabbard. 
A strange, almost fantastic impression remains on my 
mind of the moment when the men, with their faces 
lighted by the small flame of the flickering fire, all 
looked up towards my eyrie. The culminating-point of 
their treachery had come, and their countenances seemed 
ghastly and distorted, as seen from the fissure in the wall 
behind which I knelt They listened to hear if we were 
asleep. Then all but one rolled themselves in their 
blankets, completely covering their heads and bodies. 
The one figure I could now see sat up by the fire for 
some time, as if absorbed in thought. Every now and 
then he turned his head up towards my fortress and lis- 
tened. At last he got up, and with his feet smothered 
the fire. It was a lovely night, and as soon as the red- 
dish flame was put out the stars shone again like dia- 
monds in the small patch of deep-blue sky visible above 
my head. 

I rested the barrel of my rifle on the wall, my eyes be- 
ing fixed on the black figure down below. I watched as, 
stooping low, it crawled step by step the few yards up to 
my abode, pausing to listen each time that a rolling 
I stone caused a noise. He was now only two or three 
yards away, and seemed to hesitate. Drawing back, and 
ready to spring up, I kept my eyes fixed on the top of 

229 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the wall. I waited some time, but the man was in no 
hurry, and I grew impatient. 

I slowly got up, rifle in hand, and as I raised my head 
above the wall I found myself face to face with the man 
on the other side. I lost no time in placing the muzzle 
of my Mannlicher close to his face, and the perplexed 
Shoka, dropping his kukri, went down on his knees to 
implore my pardon. After giving him a good pounding 
with the butt of my rifle, I sent him about his business. 
The man lacked the qualities of a murderer, but I felt I 
had better see that no other disturbance took place dur- 
ing the night. It is true that two men attempted to 
crawl out of camp and desert, but I discovered this and 
stopped them in time. At last the sun rose. 



CHAPTER XXXVII 

A TIBETAN GUARD'S ENCAMPMENT — NATTOO VOLUNTEERS TO BE A 
GUIDE — TREACHERY AND PUNISHMENT OF THE SHOKAS— ALL WAYS 
FORWARD BARRED TO ME — EVADING THE SOLDIERS BY ANOTHER 
PERILOUS MARCH AT NIGHT — MANS1NG AGAIN LOST — A MARVELLOUS 
PHENOMENON — SUFFERINGS OF MY MEN — SEVERE COLD 

On my last scouting journey up the hill above the 
camp I had espied by the aid of my telescope the en- 
campment of a guard of Tibetans about three miles north 
of us, and I informed my followers of this fact. 

In the morning, when we again dug up the main part 
of our baggage and made ready to start, one of the men, 
the Kutial Nattoo, came forward and professed to be 
able to guide us directly to the Mansarowar Lake. He 
seemed very anxious to undertake this task, saying that 
there would be no chance of detection by the route he 
knew, and consequently we might march during the day- 
time. 

We started up the creek, led by this man, and I was 
astonished at the willingness with which the Shokas 
agreed to proceed. In a little time I felt convinced that 
he was deliberately taking us to the spot I most wished 
to avoid. On my remonstrating and stopping farther 
progress in that direction, the Shokas mutinied, and, de- 
positing their loads, tried to escape, but my bearer quick- 
ly barred their way ahead in the narrow creek and I 
prevented their escape from the opposite side, so they 
had to surrender. Painful as it was to me, I had to 
severely punish them all, and while I took care that no 

231 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

one should bolt, Chanden Sing took special pleasure in 
knocking them about until they were brought back to 
their senses. On being closely cross-examined they 
openly confessed that they had made a plot to hand me 
over to the Tibetan guard, in order to escape the horrors 
of torture by the Tibetans. This last act of treachery, 
coming after what had happened during the night, and 
from the very men whom I had just been more than leni- 
ent towards, was too much for me, and I used a stick, 
which Chanden Sing handed me, very freely on their 
backs and legs, Nattoo the Kutial receiving the largest 
share of blows, because he was undoubtedly the head of 
the conspiracy. 

On climbing to a point of vantage, I now further dis- 
covered that, besides the guard we had to the north of 
us, both east and west our way was barred by Tibetan 
soldiers ; and although it was not possible to get on dur- 
ing the day without being seen, I absolutely refused to 
go back south. I held a palaver with my men, who were 
apparently resigned, and they agreed to accompany me 
as far as the Maium Pass (on the road to Lhassa), which 
we reckoned to be some fifteen or eighteen marches. 
They further agreed to endeavor to obtain yaks and food 
for me, and I was then to dismiss them. From the sum- 
mit of the hill I had climbed I had taken careful bear- 
ings, and when night came, aided by my luminous com- 
pass, I led my men high up along the mountain range at 
an average elevation of 1500 feet above the Gyanema- 
Taklakot track. 

The night was dark and stormy, and we encountered 
much difficulty in our journey forward owing to the slip- 
pery ground, alternated with the ever-troublesome loose 
debris and shifting rocks. We could not see far ahead, 
and though we well knew from the angle of the slope 

232 



MANSING LOST 

that we were travelling along a precipice, we could not 
distinguish anything under us except a peculiarly lumi- 
nous streak, far, far down below — undoubtedly the river. 

I could not explain this luminosity of the water, which 
did not seem to come from reflection of the light of stars 
or the moon, because the sky was very cloudy at the time. 
Moreover, the river had a curious greenish tint quite pe- 
culiar to itself, and closely resembling the light produced 
by electricity. In the more dangerous spots we had to 
proceed for long distances on all-fours, and even then we 
felt hardly safe, for we could hear the rattling of the stones 
rolling down the steep slope, and by this sound we could 
judge that we were proceeding over a precipice of extraor- 
dinary height. So difficult and painful was the walking 
that it took us four hours to go about three miles; and we 
felt so exhausted that from time to time we had to lie 
down and rest, shivering with cold, and our hands bleed- 
ing from cuts caused by the sharp stones. I mustered 
my men. Poor Mansing the leper was missing. When 
we last saw him he was moaning under his load, and he 
constantly stumbled and fell. Two men were sent in 
search, but after an hour s absence they failed to discover 
him. The faithful Chanden Sing and the Shoka Dola 
were then despatched, as I would not abandon the poor 
wretch if by any means he could be saved. After another 
hour of anxiety the two returned, bringing the unfort- 
unate coolie with them. The poor fellow's hands and 
feet were badly cut, and the pain in the latter was so great 
that he could not stand erect. He had fallen fainting from 
exhaustion, and it was by a mere stroke of luck that in 
the darkness Chanden Sing stumbled against his senseless 
body. Apart from his life, his loss would have been a 
very serious matter for me, as he carried my bedding and 
photographic cameras. 

233 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Sleet and rain commenced to fall, and the cold was in- 
tense. We continued to climb steadily, Chanden Sing 
and I helping the poor leper along. The march soon 
became less difficult, as we were following a depression 
formed by the action of melting snows, and were sheltered 
from the piercing wind which had been hitherto driving 
the sleet hard into our faces. We slowly covered some 
three miles more, and during that time the storm passed 
away, leaving the atmosphere beautifully clear. When we 
reached the pass (over 17,000 feet), a curious optical phe- 
nomenon astonished us all. The larger stars and planets, 
of a dazzling brilliancy such as I had never in my life seen 
before, seemed to swing to and fro in the sky with rapid 
and sudden jerks, describing short arcs of a circle, and 
returning each time to their normal position. The effect 
w r as so weird that the first thing that struck me was that 
something had gone wrong with my vision, but my com- 
panions saw the same phenomenon. Another curious thing 
was that the stars nearer the horizon disappeared and re- 
appeared behind the mountain range. The oscillations 
of the heavenly bodies nearer the horizon were less rapid, 
but the angle of the arc described measured almost double 
that traced by the stars directly above our heads. The 
oscillations of these, however, were very much more rapid, 
especially at certain moments, when the star itself could 
no more be discerned, and a continuous line of light ap- 
peared on the deep-blue background of the sky. This 
strange optical illusion, which began soon after the storm 
had entirely cleared away, lasted some time ; then the 
vibrations gradually became less violent, and stars and 
planets eventually resumed their normal steadiness, and 
shone with great brilliancy and beauty. We crossed the 
pass, and halted directly on the northern side of it, for my 
men's feet were in such a condition that they could bear 

234 



SUDDEN CHANGE OF TEMPERATURE 

the pain no longer. The minimum temperature was but 
12°, and, as we had no tent, there was only a blanket be- 
tween us and heaven. When we woke in the morning we 
found the thermometer had risen to 30°, but we were envel- 
oped in a thick mist which chilled us to our very marrow. 
I had icicles hanging down my mustache, eyelashes, and 
hair, and my cheeks and nose were covered with a thin 
layer of ice caused by the respiration settling and congeal- 
ing on my face. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII 

NIGHT MARCHING— THE LAFAN AND MAFAN LAKES— TIZE, THE SACRED 
KELAS— RHUBARB— BUTTERFLIES — A HERMIT LAMA— MORE DACOITS 
— SURROUNDED BY THEM — ROUTED 

During our night marches, up and down mountain 
ranges of considerable height, we naturally had advent- 
ures and escapes far too numerous to relate here in exact 
detail, and I shall not give a full description of each march 
on account of the unavoidable monotony of such a narrative. 
In constant storms of grit and snow we crossed range 
after range, travelling during the night and hiding by day, 
camping at very great altitudes and undergoing consider- 
able privations. I steered my men towards the RakastaP 
Lake, and one day, having risen to 1 7,550 feet, we obtained 
a magnificent view of the two great sheets of water, the 
Lafan-cho and Mafan-cho, or Rakastal and Mansarowar 
lakes, by which latter names they are more commonly 
known by non-Tibetans. 

To the north of the lakes stood the magnificent Tize, 
the sacred Kelas Mountain, overtopping by some two 
thousand feet all the other snowy peaks of the Gangri 
chain, which extended roughly from northwest to south- 
east. From this spot we could see more distinctly than 
from Lama Chokden the band round the base of the 
mountain, which, according to legend, was formed by the 
rope of the Rakas (devil) trying to tear down this throne 
of Siva. 

* Rakastal— Devil's Lake, also very frequently pronounced Rakstal. 

236 



TIZE, THE GREAT SACRED PEAK 

Tize, the great sacred peak, is of fascinating interest, 
owing to its peculiar shape. It resembles, as I have said, 
the giant roof of a temple, but to my mind it lacks the 
gracefulness of sweeping curves such as are found in Fuji- 
ama of Japan, the most artistically beautiful mountain I 
have ever seen. Tize is angular, uncomfortably angu- 
lar, if I may be allowed the expression; and although its 




OUR FIRST VIEW OF RAKASTAL 



height, the vivid color of its base, and the masses of snow 
that cover its slopes give it a peculiar attraction, it never- 
theless struck me as being intensely unpicturesque — at 
least from the point from which I saw it, and from which 
the whole of it was visible. When clouds were round it, 
toning down and modifying its shape, Tize appeared at its 
best from the painter's point of view. Under these con- 
ditions I have thought it very beautiful, especially at sun- 
rise, with one side tinted red and yellow, and its rocky 
mass standing majestic against a background of shiny 

237 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

gold. With my telescope I could plainly distinguish, 
especially on the east side, the defile along which the 
worshippers make the circuit at the base of. the mountain, 
though I was told that some pilgrims actually march 
round it on the snowy ledge directly over the base and 




RAKASTAL AND 



just above the darker band of rock described before. On 
the southwest side can be seen, on the top of a lower peak, 
a gigantic Obo. 

The peregrination round Tize usually takes three days, 
though some accomplish it in two days, and under favor- 
able circumstances it has even been done in one day. It 
is usual for the pilgrims to say certain prayers and make 

238 



TIZE AND HER NEIGHBORS 

sacrifices as they proceed, and the more fanatical perform 
the journey serpentwise, lying flat on the ground ; others, 
again, do it on their hands and knees, and others walking 
backward. 

Tize, or Kelas, has an elevation of 21,830 feet, and 






. *♦» 



■ 



MANSAROWAR LAKES 



Nandiphu, west of it, 10,440 feet; while northwest of the 
sacred mountain are visible other summits, 20,460 feet, 
19,970 feet, and 20,280 feet. Animal life seemed to 
abound, for while I was sketching the panorama before 
me a snow leopard bounded gracefully past us. I had a 
shot or two at thar, and we saw any number of kiang. 
We found rhubarb, which seemed to be thriving, at so 

2 39 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

high an elevation as 17,000 feet, and quantities of yellow 
flowers in the same locality and at the same elevation ; 
and at 19,000 feet I netted two couples of small white-and- 
black butterflies. They seemed to have great difficulty 
in flying, and hardly rose more than two or three inches 
off the ground, flapping their wings irregularly; they 
seldom flew more than a few feet, and then remained 
motionless for long periods before they attempted to fly 
again. I had come across the same kind of butterfly at 
lower altitudes, 18,600 feet and 17,000 feet, and I invari- 
ably found them in couples. 

On nearing the lakes the atmosphere seemed saturated 
with moisture, for no sooner had the sun gone down than 
there was a heavy dew, which soaked our blankets and 
clothes. We were at 16,550 feet, in a narrow, marshy 
creek, in which we had descended a pic from the last 
mountain range. From the summit of the range we had 
seen many columns of smoke rising from the neighbor- 
hood of the Rakastal Lake, and we judged that again we 
must proceed with great caution. 

We cooked our food, and in the middle of the night, 
for greater safety, we shifted our camp on the summit of 
the plateau in a northeasterly direction, and continued 
our journey in the morning, high above the magnificent 
blue sheet of the Devil's Lake with its pretty islands. 

"Sahib, do you see that island?" exclaimed the Kutial, 
pointing at a barren rock that emerged from the lake. 
" On it," he continued, " lives a hermit Lama, a saintly 
man. He has been there alone for many years, and he 
is held in great veneration by the Tibetans. He exists 
almost entirely on fish and occasional swan's eggs, and 
only in winter, when the lake is frozen, is communication 
established with the shore, and supplies of tsamba are 
brought to him, for they have no boats in Rakastal, nor 

240 



AN AMUSING INCIDENT 

any way of constructing rafts, owing to the absence of 
wood. The hermit sleeps in a cave, but generally comes 
out in the open to pray to Buddha." During the follow- 
ing night, when everything was still, a slight breeze 
blowing from the north brought to us, faint and indis- 
tinct, the broken howls of the hermit. 

" What is that ?" I asked of the Shokas. 

" It is the hermit speaking to God. Every night he 
climbs to the summit of the rock, and from there ad- 
dresses his prayers to Buddha the Great." 

" How is he clothed ?" I inquired. 

" In skins." 

Late in the afternoon we had an amusing incident. 
We came to a creek in which were a number of men and 
women, hundreds of yaks and sheep, and some thirty 
ponies. 

The Shokas became alarmed, and immediately pro- 
nounced the folks to be brigands. I maintained that 
they were not, and as Kachi expounded the theory that 
the only way to distinguish Dakus from honest beings 
was to hear them talk (the Dakus, he declared, usually 
shout at the top of their voices when conversing, and use 
language far from select, while well-to-do Tibetans speak 
gently and with refinement), I thought the only thing to 
do was to go and address the people, when by the tone of 
voice we would find out what they were. This, however, 
did not suit my Shokas, and w r e were placed in rather a 
curious position, for to proceed we must either pass by 
the Tibetan encampment, or we must march southward 
round a mountain, which would involve considerable 
trouble, fatigue, and waste of time. We waited till night 
came, watching, unseen, the Tibetans below us. As is 
customary with them, they retired at sundown to their 
tents. Leaving my men behind, I crawled into their 

241 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

camp during the night and peeped into one of the tents. 
The men were squatting on the ground, round a fire in 
the centre, upon which steamed two vessels with stewing 
tea. One old man, with strongly marked Mongolian 
features, accentuated by the heavy shadows which were 
cast by the light of the fire above his angular cheek- 
bones and prominent and wrinkled brow, was busily re- 
volving his prayer-wheel from left to right, repeating in a 
mechanical way the usual "Omne mani padme hun" words 
which come from the Sanscrit, and refer to the reincar- 
nation of Buddha from a lotus flower, meaning, literally, 
" O God, the gem emerging from a lotus flower." Two 
or three other men, whose faces I could not well see, as 
they were stooping very low, were busy counting money 
and examining several articles of Indian manufacture, 
which undoubtedlv had been seized from Shokas. It 
was fortunate that they had no dogs in this camp, for 
I, having discovered our best way to pass them unper- 
ceived, went back to my men and led them, in the mid- 
dle of the night, through the camp itself. We proceeded 
for a mile or so beyond the encampment, and, having 
selected a well-sheltered spot where we could rest with- 
out fear of discovery, we laid down our loads and tried 
to get a few hours' sleep. Waking at sunrise, we were 
startled to find ourselves surrounded by a band of da- 
coits. They were our friends of the previous night, who 
had followed our tracks, and, mistaking us for Shoka 
traders, had now come for a little festive looting. On 
drawing near they were given a somewhat warm recep- 
tion, and their instant retreat was more speedy than dig- 
nified. 

242 



CHAPTER XXXIX 

SPIED AND FOLLOWED BY ROBBERS — JOGPAS' HOSPITALITY — HARES- 
TIBETAN CHARMS RESISTED— ATTEMPT TO SNATCH CHANDEN SING'S 
RIFLE OUT OF HIS HANDS — THE RIDGE BETWEEN RAKASTAL AND 
MANSAROWAR LAKES 

We wended our way along a narrow valley towards the 
shore of the Devil's Lake, halting to cook our food about 
half a mile from the water's edge, and I took this op- 
portunity to make observations for longitude and altitude 
with hypsometrical apparatus. Water boiled at 185° 
with temperature of atmosphere at 64°. 

I had just repacked my instruments, and was lying 
flat in the sun, some distance away from my men, when I 
thought I saw something move. Jumping up, I beheld 
a stalwart Tibetan stealing along the ground only a few 
yards away from me, with the object, no doubt, of taking 
possession of my rifle before I had time to discover him. 
Unfortunately for him he was not quick enough, and all 
that he gained for his attempt was a good pounding with 
the butt of my Mannlicher. He was one of the Dakus 
we had seen in the morning, and no doubt they had fol- 
lowed and spied upon us all along. Having got over his 
first surprise, the dacoit, with an amusing air of assumed 
innocence, requested us to go and spend the night in his 
tent with him and his mates. They would treat us right 
royally, he said. Being, however, well acquainted with 
the hospitality of dacoits, we declined the invitation. 
The brigand went away somewhat shaken and disap- 
ao 243 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

pointed, and we continued our journey along the water- 
edge of the Devil's Lake (Rakastal), where hundreds of 
hares sprang from under our feet, several of which I 
killed with my rifle, using bullet-cartridges. There were 




A DACOIT 



signs all along that at some previous epoch the level of 
the lake must have been much higher than it is at 
present. 

Marching during the day, we encountered many Tibe- 

244 



DECEIVING THE JOGPAS 

tans, some of whom were Dogpas, others Jogpas. When 
they saw us approaching they generally bolted, driving 
their sheep or yaks in front of them. Nevertheless, we 
came upon two Tibetan women, very dirty, and their 
faces smeared with black ointment to prevent the skin 
from cracking in the high wind. They were dressed in 
long sheepskin garments, w 7 ornout and filthy, and their 
coiffures were so unwashed that they emanated a sick- 
ening odor. I ordered them not to come too near us, 
for although these females had no claims whatever to 
beauty — and, as far as I could see they possessed no 
other charm, one being old and toothless, the other with 
a skin like a lizard — they actually tried to decoy us to 
their tents, possibly with the object of getting us robbed 
by their men. My men seemed little attracted by the 
comical speeches and gestures with which they sought to 
beguile us, and I pushed on so as to be rid of this un- 
canny pack as soon as possible. 

Four Tibetans, who attempted to snatch Chanden 
Sing's rifle out of his hand, received from him a batter- 
ing that they were unlikely soon to forget, and after this 
we were fortunately left alone for the remainder of the 
day. In the evening Chanden Sing fired at a black 
wolf which came close to camp, and I discovered, about 
one hundred feet above lake -level, embedded in the 
mountain-side, a stratum of gigantic fossils, which, owing 
to their size and weight, I regretted to be unable to dig 
out and carry away. 

Feeling almost certain that we were being spied upon 
all the time by the numerous Jogpas we had met, we at- 
tempted to dodge them by pretending to encamp before 
sunset. However, we only lighted a fine fire, and then 
escaped after dark, walking and stumbling for several 
miles, until we found a spot high on the hill-side where 

245 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

we considered ourselves safe. Snow fell heavily during 
the night, and, as usual, we woke up with icicles hanging 
from our mustaches, eyelashes, and hair, notwithstand- 
ing which we really were quite happy and well. 

It was my good-fortune to make quite sure from many 
points that, as can be seen from the illustration repro- 
duced in these pages, the ridge between the Rakastal and 
Mansarowar lakes is continuous, and no communication 
between the two lakes exists. With the exception of a 
small depression about half-way across, the ridge has an 
average height of iooo feet all along, a fact which ought 
in itself to dispose of the theory that the two lakes are 
one. I also further ascertained from the natives that 
there is no communication whatever between them, 
though the depression in the ridge makes it probable 
that at a very remote period some connection existed. 
The lowest point in this depression in the centre of the 
ridge is over 300 feet above the level of the lake. There 
may, perhaps, be lower points at the most northern end 
of the ridge, which were not visible to us on the southern 
side of the lakes. 



CHAPTER XL 

MCRE ROBBERS — THE FRIENDS OF TIBETAN AUTHORITIES — A SNAP-SHOT 
— A MEEK LOT — PREPOSSESSING FEMALE AND HER CURIOUS WAYS — 
THE PURCHASE OF TWO YAKS 

Just before leaving the shores of the Rakastal I had a 
great slice of luck. It happened thus. We had been 
detected by another band of dacoits who were trying their 
hardest to overtake us. I had been spying them with my 
telescope as they rode in our direction. They were driv- 
ing some twenty yaks in front of them at an unusually 
fast pace. The dacoits rode ponies. We were about a 
mile and a half ahead of them now, and close to the edge 
of the Devil's Lake. We saw them coming down the 
hill-side at a break-neck speed straight in our direction. 
It was evident that they were after us. My men became 
terror-stricken when I gave the order to halt. 

The band of dacoits approached and left the yaks in 
charge of two women. When they galloped in a line tow- 
ards us, my men, with the exception of Chanden Sing 
Lnd Mansing, were paralyzed with fright. 

They were now a hundred yards off. With loaded rifle 
in one hand and my camera in the other, I advanced to 
meet them, knowing that, with their old-fashioned match- 
locks, it takes them a considerable time to light the fuse 
and fire a shot. Moreover, it is almost an impossibility 
for them to fire on horseback, their weapons being heavy 
and cumbersome. 

I focused them in my twin - lens photographic appa- 

247 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

ratus, and waited till I had them well in the field. I 
snapped the shot when they were only thirty yards away, 
vaulting over their ponies in the act of dismounting. The 
camera, having done its work, was quickly deposited on 
the ground, and the rifle shouldered. I shouted to them 
to put down their weapons, and to give force to my re- 
quest I aimed at them with my Mannlicher. 

A meeker lot of brigands I do not believe could be 
found, though people of that kind are often brave when 
it is easy for them to be courageous. Their matchlocks 
were unslung from their shoulders with remarkable quick- 
ness and flung to the ground, and their jewelled sw r ords 
were laid by the side of their firearms. They went down 
on their knees, and, taking off their caps with both hands, 
put out their tongues in sign of salute and submission, 
and I could not help taking another snap-shot at them in 
that attitude, which was comical, to say the least of it. 

My bearer, who had been left to look after the baggage, 
had placed Mansing in charge, and was now by my side 
with the Martini-Henry, when one of the women, riding 
astride, arrived on the scene. She was evidently furious 
at the cowardice of her men, and I liked her for that. 
She jumped off her steed, ejaculated words at the top of 
her voice, shaking her fists at the men still kneeling be- 
fore me, and at last, foaming with rage, spat on them. 
While thus haranguing the band of highwaymen, she had 
an annoying way of pointing at my baggage, but her 
speech seemed to have little effect on the submissive 
crowd. 

I therefore went up to her, patted her on the back, 
and gave her a rupee to hold her tongue. She grabbed 
the coin and rubbed it on her skin coat to make the 
silver shine. She instantly became calm, and, rubbing 
the coin until it was quite bright, she raised her fiery eyes, 

248 



H 

w 
U 




r 
> 



o 
2 






> 

2 




BUYING TWO YAKS 

staring into mine, and pulled out her tongue to express 
her thanks. 

Kachi and Dola, who knew Tibetan well, were now 
summoned to address the filibusters for me, and these two 
Shokas were in such trepidation that they could hardly 
walk, much less speak. After a while, however, seeing 
how well I had these supposed terrific rangers under, they 
were at last able to translate. 

" I want them to sell me some yaks and some ponies," 
I said. " I will pay handsomely for them." 

" They say they cannot. The Tarjum will cut their 
heads off if he comes to know it. They will only sell one 
or two yaks." 

"Very good. How much do they want?" 

" Two hundred silver rupees. But," added Dola, " sahib, 
do not give them more than forty. That is a great deal 
more than they are worth. A good yak costs from ten to 
sixteen rupees." 

After some three or four hours' bargaining, during 
which time the bandits descended gradually from two 
hundred rupees to forty and I rose from twenty to that 
figure, we at last agreed, amid the greatest excitement 
on both sides, that their two best yaks should become 
my property. I then, becoming quite friendly, purchased 
pack-saddles from them, and sundry other curiosities. 
They gave me tea, even, and tsamba. The fiery woman 
only had still a peculiar way of keeping one eye fixed on 
my baggage, and her envy of my property seemed to in- 
crease when she saw me paying for the yaks. If she kept 
one eye on my goods, I kept both there ; and I took good 
care that my rifle was never out of my hand, and that no 
one ever came too near me from behind. 

We counted the money down, some fifty rupees, includ- 
ing all purchases. Each coin was passed round and 

249 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

sounded by each of our sellers, and when the entire sum 
was handed over the coins were passed back and recount- 




PACK-SADDLES FOR YAKS 



ed so that there should be no mistake. Time in Tibet is 
not money, and my readers must not be surprised when 
I tell them that counting, recounting, and sounding the 

250 



MANAGING YAKS 

small amount took two more hours. The two yaks were 
eventually handed over to us. One, a huge, long-haired, 
black animal, restless and powerful ; the other equally 
black, strong, and hairy, but somewhat gentler. 

To catch them, separate them from the herd, pass ropes 
through their respective nostrils, and tie pack-saddles 
on their backs were all operations we as novices had to 
master. It was hard work indeed, but we struggled till 
we succeeded. 

When we parted we were good friends, the bandits be- 
having admirably, and I made up my mind that I would 
at any time rather trust a bandit in Tibet than an official. 

251 



CHAPTER XLT 

TIBETAN COATS, HATS, AND BOOTS — WHY A TIBETAN PREFERS TO 
LEAVE HALF THE CHEST AND ONE ARM BARE — ORNAMENTATIONS — 
MANNER AND SPEECH — IGNORANCE AND SUPERSTITION — WAY OF 
EATING— JOGPA WOMEN AND CHILDREN —HEAD-DRESS 

In a way, I was sorry when my interview with the Jog- 
pas came to an end, for, although they were undoubtedly 
brigands, they were certainly interesting. Their original 
and curious dress and manner of conversation, their un- 
usual but eminently suitable mode of eating, and their 
jovial freedom of demeanor were really quite refreshing. 
Their dress was quite representative of Tibet, for the men 
wore a great variety of coats and hats, probably owing to 
the facility with which they obtained them, and no two 
individuals were dressed alike, though certain leading 
characteristics of dress were conserved in each case. One 
man wore a gaudy coat trimmed with leopard-skin, another 
had a long gray woollen robe like a dressing-gown, taken 
up at the waist by a kamarband, and a third was garbed 
in a loose raiment of sheepskin, with the wool inside. Yet 
a fourth was arrayed in a deep-red tunic, fastened by a 
belt of leather with silver ornamentations inlaid in wrought- 
iron to hold a needle-case, tinder-pouch and steel, with a 
bead hanging from the leather thong, and a pretty dagger 
with sheath of ebony, steel, and filigree silver, besides oth- 
er articles, such as a bullet -pouch and bag. In their 
kamarbands, or belts, the Jogpas, in common with the 
majority of Tibetan men, wear a sword in front, and 
whether the coat is long or short, it is invariably loose 

252 



A STRANGE TIBETAN CUSTOM 



and made to bulge at the waist in order that it may con- 
tain a store of eating and drinking bowls (the pii-kus), 
snuff-box, and sundry 
bags of money, and tsam- 
ba and bricks of tea! It 
is owing to this custom 
that most Tibetan men, 
when seen at first, im- 
press one as being very 
stout, whereas, as a mat- 
ter of fact, they are some- 
what slight in figure. Tib- 
etans leave one arm and 
part of the chest bare, let- 
ting the sleeve hang loose. 
The reason for this prac- 
tice, which seems to have 
puzzled many people, is 
that in Tibet the days are 
very hot and the nights 
cold (the drop in the ther- 
mometer in Southwest Tibet being at times as much as 
8o°, and even ioo°), and as the Tibetans 
always sleep in their clothes, the garments 
that protect their bodies from being fro- 
zen at night are found too heavy and 
warm in the hot sun, and therefore this 
simple expedient is adopted. When sit- 
ting down, both arms are drawn from the 
sleeves and the chest and back are left 
bare ; but when on foot, one arm, usually 
the left, is slipped in, to prevent the coat 
and its heavy contents falling off. 

I have no hesitation in pronouncing 
253 




WHITE WOOLLEN COAT AND SASHES 




WOOLLEN SOCKS 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 




SNOW- 
BOOT 



MAN S BOOT, 
MADE AT SIGATZ 



the Tibetan boots, from a utilitarian point of view, as the 
best in the world. They have all the advantages a boot 
should possess, especially those with flat soles of thick 

twisted cord. The upper part, 
being made of red and green felt, 
keeps the foot warm without pre- 
venting ventilation, and plenty of 
spreading room is left for the toes 
when walking. The felt gaiter, 
reaching to just below the knee, 
holds the soft sole of the boot flat 
under the foot, giving absolutely 
free action to the ankle. The most 
salient and sensible point in the 
Tibetan foot-gear, however, is that the foot, all but the 
top part, is incased in the thick sole, thus preventing 
the jamming of toes betw r een stones when walking, for 
instance, on debris, and also doing away with the ac- 
cumulation of snow and mud between the sole and boot, 
so inconvenient in our foot-gear. There are many va- 
rieties and makes of boots in Tibet, 
but the principle is always the 
same. The boots are always home- 
made, each individual making his 
own, except in large towns, where 
foot-gear can be purchased, and 
necessarily the quality is then not 
up to the same high standard. The 
difference in Tibetan boots is main- 
ly in the quality or texture of the 
soles ; for instance, the Lhassa 
boots have finer, softer, and more 

elastic soles than those made in Sigatz (usually written 
Shigatze), which are quite hard and stiff, and supposed to 

254 




WOMAN S 
BOOT 



BOOT MADE 
IN LHASSA 



TIBETAN HEAD-GEAR 

wear out much sooner than the more pliable ones of the 
sacred city. Then there are some with leather soles, 
made specially for wet or snowy regions, and these, when 
greased over, are quite waterproof. Two kinds of these are 
in use, one with pointed and curled toes, for cutting ones 
way into the snow, the other of the usual shape. Men 
and women alike wear these boots. The principal Lamas 
and officials of Tibet have adopted the Chinese -pattern 
boots of leather, with heavy leather or wooden soles and 
enormous nails under them. 

The Tibetans have innumerable varieties of head-gear. 
The most peculiar of all, worn chiefly by soldiers and 
dacoits, is one in the form of a section of a cone with 
large rim, made entirely of twisted cord like that used for 
the soles of the boots, and with a hole at the top for ven- 
tilation. The conical part being too small to fit the head, 
it is held upon the skull by means of two strings tied 
under the chin. There are also conical brown and gray 
felt ones, not unlike filters used in chemical laboratories, 
and these, when of the better quality, are frequently orna- 
mented with gold, blue, or red embroidery of Chinese 
manufacture. An impressive head-gear was worn by the 
medicine-man attached to the band of robbers I had inter- 
viewed. It resembled at first sight an exaggerated jockey's 
cap of red silk, but closer examination showed that it con- 
sisted of two long strips of red silk, well stretched on a 
light frame of bamboo, and at an angle of about 90°. This 
hat w r as held on the head by means of a band round the 
back of the head, and it projected some fifteen inches over 
the forehead. In addition to these, there are of course 
common cloth or fur caps, with ear-flaps; and it is not un- 
common to see, in Tibet, soldiers wearing a silk kamar- 
band bound tightly round the head, turban-fashion, with 
one end left hanging down over the ear. The commoner 

255 




IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Tibetan, however, is not fond of covering his head, and 
though he often has one or more caps stowed away in the 
loose folds of his coat, he seldom wears one on his head 
under ordinary circumstances. This does 
not apply to officials, who are never seen 
without a circular cap of Chinese shape, 
surmounted by a topknot. 

HAT WORN BY J r 

officials All men, except the Lamas, who shave 

their heads clean, wear a pigtail, short and 
shaggy at times, or long and ornamented with a piece of 
cloth in which it is sewn and passed through rings of 
ivory, bone, glass, metal, or coral. Ornaments of silver, 
such as perforated coins, are much used in adorning the 
men's pigtails, and coral and malachite ornaments are 
also common in Tibet for the same purpose, and are 
much valued by the natives. Men wear, passed through 
the lobe of the ear, an ear-ring with malachite ornamen- 
tations, and often with an additional long pendant. It is 
usually of brass or silver, and occasionally of gold. More 
common than the solitary ear-ring is the brass or silver 
charm-box, frequently containing a likeness of Buddha, 
which nearly every Tibetan carries slung round his neck. 
Tibetans are, as a rule, excessively superstitious and fond 
of charms of every sort. Their superstitions are, of 
course, the result of ignorance, and so are most of their 
other bad qualities. Except among the higher officials 
and the Lamas, education can hardly be said to exist in 
Tibet, the population being kept in the most abject ig- 
norance. Few can read, and none can write, and the 
Lamas take very good care that only those shall learn 
who are likely to be of use. Honesty and honor are two 
qualities almost unknown in any class or condition in 
Tibet; and as for truthfulness, all travellers in the country 
can testify to the practical impossibility of obtaining it 

256 



APPEARANCE OF DACOIT WOMEN 

from a Tibetan. Cruelty is innate in them, and vice and 
crime are everywhere rampant. 

That the Jogpas had good digestions was evident from 
the way they ate when, having concluded the sale of the 
yaks, they squatted down to a hearty meal of tsamba, 
chura, and tea. They took from their coats their wooden 
and metal pu-kus, and quickly filled them with tsamba ; 
pouring over it some steaming tea, made as usual with 
butter and salt in a churn, they stirred it round and 
round the bowl with their dirty fingers until a paste was 
formed, which they rolled into a ball and ate, the same 
operation being repeated over and over again until their 
appetite was satisfied. Each time, before refilling, the 
bowl was licked clean by rotating the pn-ku round and 
round the tongue. Feeling the heat of the sun, after 
their meal both men and women removed their garments 
above the waist, showing ornaments of gold, silver, and 
copper encircling their necks. 

The women folk of the dacoits, though far from beauti- 
ful, possessed a certain charm, arising from their curious 
wildness. Unlike those of Tibetan women generally, their 
teeth were very good, and their complexions were not spe- 
cially dark, the black ointment with which their cheeks, 
noses, and foreheads were smeared making them appear 
darker than they really were, and being decidedly unbecom- 
ing. All had regular features, and their eyes and mouths 
were full of expression. Their hair, plaited into number- 
less little tresses, was brought up and fastened in a grace- 
ful curve over the head, kept firm by a red turban, which 
was arranged to show another row of little tresses on the 
forehead, the ends being joined in succession to one an- 
other. They wore large ear-rings of gold inlaid with 
malachite, and were in manner so unaffected that they 
disregarded even the most primitive conventions. 

257 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

The children were talkative, and had the bearing of 
adults. They wore swords in their belts, even at the 
early age of eight or ten years. In a basket that had 
been carried by one of the yaks I saw an infant only 
a few months old. I caressed it, to the horror of his 
superstitious mother, who snatched the child away and 
washed and rubbed the poor little fellow's face until the 
skin was sore, declaring that children die that are touched 
by strangers. 

The men were just as superstitious. When I pur- 
chased some rice from them they would not let me touch 
it till it had become my property. They objected each 
time that I stretched out my arm to examine the rice, 
and showed me eventually a handful of rice at a consider- 
able distance, to let me judge of its quality. I had to 
purchase only the handful at first. Having assured my- 
self that it was good, I then purchased the remainder. 



CHAPTER XLII 

A DAKU'S STRANGE IDEAS — THE RIDGE BETWEEN THE TWO LAKES — 
BLACK TENTS — CONFRONTING THE TWO LAKES — A CHAIN OF HIGH 
PEAKS — GOMBAS— CHANGE IN THE WEATHER 

We had marched on the same afternoon about half a 
mile in the direction of Mansarowar, when we were over- 
taken by one of the Dakus whom we had left a short 
time before. He rode towards us, apparently in a great 
state of excitement. Having dismounted, he drew his 
sword and began chasing one of my yaks. This seemed 
so strange a proceeding that we were at a loss to under- 
stand his intentions ; but as he screamed to us that he 
meant no harm, we let him go on. He eventually over- 
took one recalcitrant yak, and, after a struggle with the 
unfortunate beast, he flung his arms round its neck and 
rested his head between its horns. I was anything but 
pleased with these antics, fearing that this effusion was 
only a dodge to cut the beasfs throat. Much to my as- 
tonishment, I found that the young Jogpa had seized a 
tuft of the yak's hair with his teeth and was trying to 
tear it off, while the unfortunate beast was making des- 
perate efforts to shake off its persecutor. The hair 
eventually gave way, and with a mouthful of it hanging 
from both sides of his tightly closed lips the Jogpa now 
let go of the animal's head, and, brandishing his sword, 
made a dash for its tail. 

I seized the man by his pigtail, while he in his turn 
clung to the tail of the frightened yak, which, bolting, 
dragged us after it at an unpleasant pace, 

259 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

The Jogpa, in our mad flight, cut off a long lock of the 
yak's silky hair, and, having secured this, appeared to be 
quite satisfied, let go and sheathed his sword. He con- 
cealed the stolen locks in his coat, and then made pro- 
found obeisances to us, putting out his tongue as usual 
and declaring that, unless that precaution is taken when 
parting with a beast, bad luck is sure to come to you, 
This closed the incident; the Jogpa rode away perfectly 




A BLACK YAK 



happy, and we continued our march across the stony 
plain until we reached the ridge which extends across it 
and divides the two sheets of water. We climbed up to 
the top, rising to 16,450 feet, and, to make certain that 
the ridge really extended right across, I made an expedi- 
tion about half - way across, finding the northern part 
somewhat lower than the southern, still rising several, 
hundred feet above the level of the lakes. This expedi- 

260 



LAKES RAKASTAL AND MANSAROWAR 

tion incurred some loss of time, and when night came we 
were still on the ridge. 

From our camping-ground we saw fifteen black tents 
on the hill-side, and to the east, on the lake shore, there 
was a large Gomba, or Lamasery, with a temple and a 
number of mud houses. I estimated the distance be- 
tween ourselves and the Gomba at only eight miles — a 
cheering fact, because I hoped to get fresh provisions 
there to enable us to proceed more rapidly on our journey. 
We were now quite out of reach of the Gyanema sepoys, 
as well as of the Barca Tarjum and the Taklakot Jong 
Pen, and if we could only obtain a sufficient quantity of 
food during the night, and proceed by the jungle early 
the next day, there would be little danger of our being 
overtaken. The Shokas were, of course, again shaking 
with fright at the idea of entering a Tibetan settlement, 
but I told them very firmly that we must reach Tucker 
Gomba and village that night. 

We had below us the two great lakes, and before I left 
this magnificent panorama I could not help taking a last 
lonor look at the marvellous scene. The Devil's Lake, 
with its broken, precipitous shores, its rocky islands and 
outstretching peninsulas, was far more enchanting to me 
than the sacred lake at its side, in which, according to 
tradition, dwell Mahadeva (pronounced Mahadeve) and all 
the other good gods. Although the water is equally blue 
and limpid, although each lake has for background the 
same magnificent Gangri chain, Mansarowar, the creation 
of Brahma, from whom it takes its name, is not nearly so 
weirdly fascinating as its neighbor. Mansarowar has no 
ravines rising precipitously from its waters, in which their 
vivid coloring would be reflected as in a mirror ; it is al- 
most a perfect oval, without indentations. There is a 
stony, slanting plain some two miles wide between the 

261 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

water's edge and the hills surrounding it, except along 
the ridge separating it from the Rakastal, where its shore 
is slightly more rugged and precipitous. 

Directly south of the lake is a chain of high peaks 
covered with snow, from which several streams descend. 
From where we stood we could see evident signs, as in 
the case of the Rakastal, that the level of the lake must at 
one time have been at least thirty feet higher than it is at 
present, and the slanting bed of small rounded and smooth 
stones, which extends from one and a half to two miles 
beyond the water-line, is evidence enough that the water 
must once have been up to that point. I believe that it is 
still gradually receding. 

Round the lake there are several tumbling-down sheds 
in charge of Lamas, but only one important Gomba 
(monastery) and temple are to be found — viz., at Tucker 
village. 

I was told that a small Gomba and serai in charge of 
Lamas stand to the northwest of the lake, but I cannot 
vouch for the accuracy of the statement, as I did not visit 
them myself, and the information I received from Tibetans 
regarding their position and importance was conflicting. 

As the nature of the country suddenly altered between 
the Devil's Lake and Mansarowar, so, too, the weather 
and the temperature greatly changed. Over the Rakastal 
we invariably saw a lovely blue sky, whereas over Man- 
sarowar heavy black clouds always lowered and rain fell 
incessantly. From time to time the wind blew off the 
rain for a few minutes, and lovely effects of light play- 
ed on the water, but fresh clouds, with violent bursts 
of thunder, soon made the scene again gloomy and de- 
pressing. 

It was much warmer on the Mansarowar side of the 
ridge than on the other, and, probably owing to damp- 

262 



MANSAROWAR THE HOME OF STORMS 

ness, the air seemed quite thick to breathe, instead of 
being crisp and light, as it was along the shores of the 
Devils Lake. Indeed, when I recall the Mansarowar, I 
cannot help thinking that it is the home not only of the 
gods but also of all the storms. 

263 



CHAPTER XLIII 

THE LANGA TSANGPO — A TERRIFIC STORM — DRENCHED TO THE SKIN — 
HEAVY MARCHING — AGAINST THE GODS — DIFFICULTY IN FINDING THE 
LAMASERY AND VILLAGE— A BARK ! — ARRIVAL AT LAST — GENTLE 
TAPPING— UNDER A ROOF 

We descended some two miles to the plain, and crossed 
a rapid delta of the Langa Tsangpo, or Langa River; then 
another, a mile farther. As these rivers came directly 
from the snows, the water was very cold, and often three 
or four feet deep, owing to the thawing of the snow and 
ice during the day. 

No sooner had we reached the shores of the Mansaro- 
war than the heavy clouds which had been hanging over 
our heads poured forth such a torrent of rain that in a 
moment we were drenched to the skin. We were march- 
ing very fast, as all our heavy loads were now on the two 
yaks, but night was well advanced, and the darkness was 
such that we could only see a few inches in front of us. 
We were actually walking in an inch or two of water, and 
a fierce southeast wind drove the .rain and hail so hard 
into our faces and hands as to cause us considerable pain. 
We were frozen in our wet garments, and our teeth were 
chattering, though we walked quickly, keeping close to- 
gether. From time to time a bright flash of lightning 
shone on the lake, followed by a terrific crash of thunder, 
and by what we could see during those few seconds of 
light we tried to steer our way towards Tucker village 
and Gomba. 

The rivers, swollen by the rain, were extremely difficult 

264 



THE HOME OF THE GODS 

to cross, and the water seemed to flow so rapidly on the 
inclined bed that it was all we could do to keep on our 
feet. So wet were we that we did not even take the 
trouble to remove our shoes or garments, and we splashed 
through, clothes and all. Three times we went into the 
freezing water above our waists, and then we marched for 
apparently endless miles on the pebbly and stony incline. 
We could not see where we were going, and the storm 
seemed to grow worse every moment, and we stumbled 
on amid large stones and boulders, and fell over one an- 
other on slippery rocks. Farther on we sank up to our 
knees in mud, and each time that we lifted afoot it seemed 
to be of lead. It was a downpour such as I had seldom 
before experienced. 

11 Are you quite sure, Kachi, that this lake is the home 
of the gods ?" I inquired of Kachi. " Why, even on the 
Devil's Lake we had better weather than this." 

" Yes, sir," replied Kachi. "But you make the gods 
angry, and that is why they send thunder, hail, and rain to 
stop your progress. You are going on against the gods, 
sir." 

" Never mind, Kachi. It cannot pour forever." 

At midnight we had no idea of our position ; still we 
pushed on. 

" Have we passed the Gomba ? Have we not yet reached 
it ?" were the questions we asked each other. It seemed 
to me that, at the rate we were going, we ought by now 
to be very near the place, and yet after another hour's 
tramp we had not struck it. I was under the belief that 
we had gone about nine miles, and I expressed the opin- 
ion that we had passed it, but the Shokas insisted that we 
had not, so we again proceeded. 

We had hardly gone five hundred yards when we heard 
a faint, distant, and most welcome dog's bark. It came 

265 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

from the northwest, and we surmised that it must come 
from Tucker. We had steered too far south of the place, 
which accounted for our missing it in the darkness. 

Guided by the yelping, we hastily directed our steps 
towards the settlement. The dog's solitary howl was at 
once supplemented by fifty more angry barks, and though 
we knew by the sound that we were approaching the vil 
lage, it was so dark and stormy that we could not find the 
place. Only when we found ourselves close to the mud 
huts could we be certain that we had at last arrived. 

It was now between 2 and 3 a.m. The rain still came 
down in torrents, and, alas! there was no sign of any of 
the inhabitants being willing to give us shelter. It was 
quite out of the question to pitch our little tente d'abri, 
for our things were already wringing wet. 

The noise we made tapping outside a door was deter- 
mined, so much so that the door itself nearly gave way. 
This was a shelter-house, a serai for pilgrims ; and as we 
claimed to be pilgrims, we had, by the laws of the country, 
a right to admission. The Kutial Nattoo, who had once 
before reached this lake by a different route, led us to this 
house. 

" You are dacoits," said a hoarse voice from inside, " or 
you would not come at this hour." 

" No, we are not, 1 ' we entreated. " Please open. We 
are well-to-do people. We will harm no one, and pay for 
all." 

" Middu, MidduT (Cannot be, no !) " You are dacoits. 
I will not open." 

To show that we were not what they imagined, faithful 
Chanden Sing and Dola tapped again so gently at the 
door that the bolt gave way. The next moment ten 
strangers were squatting down round a warm fire, drying 
their shrivelled -up, soaked skins by the flame of dried 

266 



AN INHOSPITABLE LANDLORD 

tamarisk and dung. The landlord, a doctor, by-the-way, 
was reassured when he saw that we had no evil intentions, 
and found some silver coins in the palm of his hand. Yet 
he said he would rather that we slept somewhere else ; 
there was a capital empty hut next door. 

On our agreeing to this, he conducted us to the place, 
and we spent the remainder of the night there, or rather 
the early morning. 

267 



CHAPTER XLIV 

THE INTERIOR OF A SERAI — VERMIN — FISH, LOCAL JEWELRY, AND 
POTTERY FOR SALE— FAVORITE SHAPES AND PATTERNS — HOW POT- 
TERY IS MADE 

Our abode was a one -storied house built of stones 
and mud, with a flat roof. There were two rooms, the 
first lighted by the door, the second and larger having a 
square aperture in the ceiling for the triple purpose of 
ventilation, lighting, and outlet for the smoke of the fire, 
w r hich burned directly underneath in the centre of the 
room. The beams and rafters supporting the roof had 
been brought over from the other side of the Himahlyas, 
because no wood is to be found in Western Tibet. 

This serai was in charge of a young, half - demented 
Lama, who was most profuse in salutations, and who re- 
mained open-mouthed, gazing, at us for a considerable 
time. He was polite and attentive in helping to dry our 
things in the morning, and whenever we asked for any- 
thing he ran out of the serai in frantic fits of merriment, 
always bringing in what we required. 

The heavy storm during the night had flooded our room, 
and there was only one corner slightly drier than the rest 
of the floor, where w r e all slept huddled together. These 
serais have no claim to cleanliness, and on this occasion 
all the minor animal life that inhabited the floor had, with 
a view to avoiding the water, retreated to the higher por- 
tion of the room, which we also had selected, so that one 
more trial was added to all our other miseries, for we were 
half devoured by a variety of " insects." This, indeed, was 

268 





COINS AND JEWELS 

a dreadful penance, one from which we suffered inde- 
scribable agonies, not only on this occasion, but whenever 
we halted near Tibetan camps. When we rose in the 
morning the room was full of Tib- 
etan men, women, and children, 
who seemed very good - natured 
and friendly. 

" Tanga chick /" (a silver coin 
equivalent to half a rupee) cried 
an old woman, who stuck a dried 
fish under my nose, professing 
volubly that it had been caught 
in Mansarowar, and that it would SILVER LHASSA COINS 
make the possessor the happiest 

of mortals. Others unrolled, from pieces of red cloth, 
jewelry in the form of brooches, rings, and ear-rings 
of brass or silver inlaid with malachite. 

" Gurmoh sum /" (three rupees) ; " Diu, diu, diu " (Yes, 
yes, yes) ; " Karuga ni /" (two two-anna pieces) ; " Gieut- 
cheke /" (a four-anna piece), and so on, all talking at the 
same time in their anxiety to dispose of their goods. 




♦ # # 




COPPER COINS 

EAR-RING WORN BY MEN 

The jewelry was of local manufacture, and in some 
cases the pieces of malachite were firmly set, but usually 
a kind of paste is used for holding the stones, and conse- 
quently, pretty as the jewels are, they soon break. 

The ear-rings are usually better made than the brooches, 
but the most interesting of all, because simpler and more 
characteristic, are the flat silver charms, such as the one I 

269 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 




SILVER CHARM 



give in the illustration below, ornamented with primitive 
design. This particular one, which is now in my posses- 
sion, is of great antiquity, the edges being much worn 
down. It has the lotus pattern in the centre and leaf 

ornamentations filled in 
with lines radiating from 
a parent stem. Concen- 
tric circles occupy the in- 
ner square, which also con- 
tains circular dots in sets 
of threes and contiguous 
semicircles. Triangles 
filled in with parallel 
lines are a favorite form 
of ornamentation in Tib- 
etan work, and perhaps 
most popular of all in the 
mind of the Tibetan artist is the square or the lozenge 
outline, with a special inclination towards purely geo- 
metrical patterns, a preference probably inherited from 
their Mongolian origin. 

The most interesting objects to me at 
Tucker were the specimens of pottery 
made by the natives, which is manufact- 
ured from clay of fine quality, although 
it is not properly beaten previous to be- 
ing worked into vases, jugs, etc. Moulds 
are used to fashion the bases of the larger gold-and-mala- 
vessels, and the inner part is shaped by chite brooch 
the hand ; a rough turning-machine sim- 
plifies the finishing, of the upper part of the vase, leaving 
it comparatively smooth. Two handles with rough line 
ornamentations are added to the larger vessels, but one 
suffices for the jars with longer neck and small aperture. 

270 









MANSAROWAR POTTERY 

The two patterns reproduced in the following illustra- 
tion are those more commonly adopted ; the color is a 
light grayish terra-cotta, left fairly smooth and unvar- 
nished. They are well burned, in primitive furnaces, the 
Lamas showing much skill in the manufacture of these 




MANSAROWAR POTTERY 



vessels, which find a ready market among the pilgrims 
to the sacred lake. The tools used in fashioning the 
vessels are extremely simple — a piece of flat stone and 
two or three wands of wood. Beyond this the Tucker 
potter does not require more than his fingers to accom- 
plish his work, his nails being largely used in scraping 
the simple ornamentations upon the pottery. 






CHAPTER XLV 

FRIENDLY LAMAS— CHANDEN SING AND MANSING PURIFIED— MANSING'S 
SARCASM— PILGRIMS TO MANSAROWAR AND THEIR PRIVILEGES— FOR 
LUCK ! — OUTSIDE THE GOMBA 

Several Lamas came to visit me in the morning, and 
professed to be pleased to see me ; in fact, they asked me 
to go and pay them a visit in the Lamasery and temple. 
They said there was much sickness in the village, and, as 
they believed me to be a Hindoo doctor, they wished I 
could do something to relieve their sufferings. I prom- 
ised to do all I could, and was very glad to have this 
unique chance of visiting a Lamasery and of studying 
the cases that would be brought before me. I carried 
my rifle in my hand even during this friendly visit to the 
Lamas. 

When I came out of our stuffy, dark room, preceded 
and followed by a crowd of inquisitive natives, I had a 
good look round this strange village. After the storm 
of the night, we did not have the beautiful blue sky that 
might have been expected, but over us hung threatening 
clouds, while the waters of the sacred lake, softly moved 
by the wind, made a gentle lapping sound on the beach. 
Chanden Sing and Mansing, the two Hindoos, divested 
of all their clothing except a doti, were squatting near 
the edge of the lake, having their heads shaved clean by 
Bijesing the Johari. I must confess that I was some- 
what annoyed when I saw them using my best razor for 
the purpose, but I repressed my anger on remembering 

2*]2 



SIVA, THE GREATEST OF ALL GODS 

that, according to their religion, the fact of being at 
Mansarowar absolved them from all sins. My two ser- 
vants, with heads turned towards Kelas Mount, seemed 
excited, and were praying so fervently that I stood to 
watch them. They washed themselves repeatedly in the 
water of the lake, and at last plunged into it. On com- 
ing out shivering, they each took out of their clothes 
a silver rupee and flung it into the lake as an offering 
to the God Mahadeva. Then, with hairless faces and 
heads, they dressed and came to pay their salaams to 
me, professing to be now happy and pure. 

" Siva, the greatest of all gods, lives in the waters of 
Mansarowar!" exclaimed my bearer, in a poetic mood. 
" I have bathed in its waters, and of its waters I have 
drunk. I have salaamed the great Kelas, the sight of 
which alone can absolve all sins of humanity; I shall now 
go to heaven." 

" I shall be satisfied if we get as far as Lhassa," grum- 
bled the sceptical Mansing, out of ear-reach of the Tib- 
etans. 

Chanden Sing, who was well versed in religious matters, 
explained that only Hindoo pilgrims who had lost both 
parents shaved their heads on visiting Mansarowar, as a 
sacrifice to Siva, and, if they were of a high caste, on their 
return to their native land after the pilgrimage it was 
customary to entertain all the Brahmins of the town to a 
banquet. A man who had bathed in Mansarowar was 
held in great respect by everybody, and commanded the 
admiration and envy of the entire world. 

The Mansarowar Lake is about forty-six miles round, 
and those pilgrims who wish to attain a greater state of 
sanctity make a kora> or circuit, on foot along the water- 
line. The journey occupies from four to seven days, ac- 
cording to circumstances, and one trip round will absolve 

273 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the pilgrim from ordinary sins; twice the circuit clears 
the conscience of any murder ; and three times will make 
honest and good a person who has killed his or her father, 
mother, brother, or sister. There are fanatics who make 
the tour on -their knees, others accomplish the distance 
lying down flat at each step on their faces, similar to the 
pilgrims to Kelas. 

According to legend, Mansarowar was created by 
Brahma, and he who shall bathe in its waters will share 
the paradise of Mahadeva. No matter what crimes he 
may have previously committed, a dip in the holy lake is 
sufficient to purge the soul as well as the body. To 
please my men, therefore, and perhaps bring myself some 
luck, I, too, hurled a couple of coins into the water. 

The purifying ablutions being over, I ordered Chan- 
den Sing to take his rifle and follow me into the Gomba, 
as the Lamas were so polite that I feared treachery on 
their part. 

The large square building, with its walls painted red 
and its flattish dome of gilt copper, rose by the water- 
side, and was both picturesque and handsome in its se- 
vere simplicity. 

There came sounds from inside of deep, hoarse voices 
muttering prayers, the tinkling of bells and clanging of 
cymbals. From time to time a drum was beaten, giving 
a hollow sound, and an occasional and sudden touch 
upon a gong caused the air to vibrate until the notes, in 
a gradual diminuendo, were carried away over the holy 

lake. 

274 



CHAPTER XLVI 

ENTERING THE LAMASERY— THE LAMA's DWELLING— NOVICES — WERE 
WE IN A TRAP? — IMAGES — OBLATIONS — URGHIN — THE HOLY WATER, 
THE VEIL OF FRIENDSHIP, AND ABSOLUTION — MUSICAL INSTRU- 
MENTS, BOOKS, ETC. — GOD AND THE TRINITY —HEAVEN AND HELL — 
A MYSTERY 

After Chanden Sing and I had entered into the Lama- 
sery, the large door, which had been pushed wide open, 
was immediately closed. We were in a spacious court- 
yard, three sides of which had two tiers of galleries sup- 
ported by columns. This was the Lhaprang, or Lama's 
house, and directly in front of me was the Lha Rang, or 
temple, the floor of which was raised some five feet above 
the level of the ground, with a very large door leading 
into it. At this entrance were, one on either side, re- 
cesses, in which, by the side of a big drum, squatted two 
Lamas with books of prayers before them, a praying- 
wheel and a rosary in their hands, the beads of which 
they shifted after every prayer. At our appearance the 
monks ceased their prayers and beat the drums in an ex- 
cited manner. From what I could judge, there was a 
commotion in the Gomba. Lamas, old and young, rushed 
to and fro out of their rooms, while a number of Chabis, 
or novices — boys between the ages of twelve and twenty — 
lined the banisters of the upper veranda with expressions 
of evident suspense and curiosity depicted on their faces. 
No doubt the Lamas had prepared a trap for us. I 
warned Chanden Sing to be on the alert, and set him on 
guard at the entrance of the temple, while I, depositing a 

275 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

few silver coins on the drum of the Lama to my right, 
took off my shoes in sign of respect, and, much to the 
amazement of the monks, quietly entered the house of 
worship. Partly astonished at the sight of the silver, and 
more so at my want of caution, the Lamas, of whom there 
was a good number in the court-yard, remained motion- 
less and mute. The High Lama, or Father Superior of 
the Monastery, at last came forward, stooping low, and 





ENTRANCE TO THE TUCKER TEMPLE 



placing one thumb above the other, with his tongue hang- 
ing out to show his superlative approval of my visit to 
the many images representing deities or sanctified Bud- 
dhist heroes which were grouped along the walls of the 
temple. The largest of these were about five feet high, 
the others about three feet. Some were carved out of 
wood, their drapery and ornaments being fairly artistic in 
arrangement and execution, while others were fashioned 

276 






INTERIOR OF THE TEMPLE 

in gilt metal. There were a number in a sitting posture 
and some standing erect, and they all rested on ornament- 
ed pedestals or plainer bases painted blue, red, white, and 
yellow. Many wore the ancient Chinese double-winged 
cap, as used to this day by Corean officials, and were 
placed in recesses in the wall decorated with stuffs, wood 
carvings, and rough paintings of images. 

At the foot of these images was a long shelf, on which, 
in bright brass vessels of all sizes, were oblations of 
tsamba, dried fruit, chura, wheat, and rice, offered through 
the Lamas by the devotees to the different saints. 
Some of the ears of barley were ornamented with imita- 
tion leaves of murr (butter), colored red, blue, and yel- 
low. 

The ceiling of the temple was draped in red woollen 
cloth similar to that of the clothes worn by the Lamas 
themselves, and from it hung hundreds of strips of silk, 
wool, and cotton of all imaginable colors. The roof was 
supported by columns of wood forming a quadrangle in 
the centre of the temple and joined by a balustrade, com- 
pelling the worshippers to make a circuit from left to 
right in order to pass before the several images. In a 
shrine in the central part of the wall facing the entrance 
was Urghin, or Kunjuk-chick (God alone), and in front 
of it, on a kind of altar covered with a carpet, a collection 
of donations far more abundant than those offered to the 
other images. 

The Lama, pointing at it, told me that it was a good 
God, and so I salaamed it and deposited a small offering 
in a handy collection - box, which seemed to please the 
Lama greatly, for he at once fetched a holy-water am- 
phora, hung with long veils of friendship and love, and 
poured some scented liquid on the palms of my hands. 
Then, producing a strip of veil, he wetted it with the 

277 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

scent and presented it to me. The majority of pilgrims 
generally go round the inside of the temple on their 
knees, but, notwithstanding that, to avoid offending prej- 
udices, I generally follow the principle of doing in Rome 
as the Romans do, I could not here afford the chance of 
placing myself at such a disadvantage in case of a sur- 
prise. The High Lama explained the different images 
and threw handfuls of rice over them as he called them 
by their respective names, all of which I tried hard to 
remember, but, alas ! before I could get back to the serai 
and scribble down their appellations they had all escaped 
my memory. A separate entrance led from the living 
part of the monastery into the temple. 

Lights, burning in brass bowls, their wicks being fed 
with melted butter, were scattered on the floor in the 
central quadrangle, and near them lay oblong books of 
prayers printed on the smooth yellow Tibetan paper 
made from a fibrous bark. Near these books were small 
drums and cymbals. One double drum, I noticed, was 
made from reversed sections of human skulls, and my at- 
tention was also attracted by some peculiar head -gear 
worn by the Lamas during their services and ceremonies. 
On these occasions they not only accompany their chant- 
ing and prayers with the beating of drums and clashing 
of cymbals, but they at the same time make a noise on 
cane flutes, tinkle hand - bells, and sound a large gong. 
The noise of these instruments is at times so great that 
the prayers themselves are quite inaudible. Unfortu- 
nately, I failed to see any of the awe-inspiring masks 
which are used by Lamas in their eccentric and mystic 
dances, during which, when the Lamas spend the whole 
day in the temple, they consume much tea with butter 
and salt in it, which is brought to them in cups by 
Lamas of an inferior order acting as servants. They 

278 



KUNJUK-SUM 

pass hour after hour in their temples, apparently abso- 
lutely absorbed in praying to the God above all gods, 
the incarnation of all the saints together united in a 
trinity, the Kimjuk-Sum. 

Kunjuk - Sum, translated literally, means " the three 
deities," and some take it to refer to the elements — air, 
water, and fire— which in the Tibetan mind are symbols of 
speech, charity, and force, and life. One great point in 
Buddhism, as every one knows, is the advocation of love 
and respect to one's father and mother, and the prohibi- 
tion against injuring one's neighbors in any way. Ac- 
cording to the precepts contained in some eight hundred 
volumes called the Kajars, the Tibetans believe in a 
heaven (the Deva Tsembo) free from all anxieties of hu- 
man existence, full of love and joy 5 and ruled over by a 
god of infinite goodness, helped by countless disciples 
called the Chanchubs^ who spend their existence in per- 
forming charitable deeds among living creatures. With 
a number of intermediate places of happiness and punish- 
ment they even believe in a hell, where the souls of sin- 
ners are tormented by fire and ice. 

" God sees and knows everything, and He is every- 
where," exclaimed the Lama, " but we cannot see Him. 
Only the Chanchubs can see and speak to Him." 

" What are the evil qualities to be mostly avoided ?" 
I inquired of the High Lama, who spoke a little Hin- 
dustani. 

" Luxury, pride, and envy," he replied. 

"Do you ever expect to become a saint?" I asked 
him. 

"Yes, I hope so, but it takes five hundred transmigra- 
tions of an uncontaminated soul before one can be one." 

Then, as if waking to a sudden thought, he seized my 
hand impulsively and spread my fingers open. Having 

279 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

done this, he muttered two or three words of surprise. 
His face became serious, even solemn, and he treated me 
with strange obsequiousness. Rushing out of the tem- 
ple, he went to inform the other Lamas of his discovery, 
whatever it was. They crowded round him, and from 
their words and gestures it was easy to see that they 
were bewildered. 

When I left the company of the strange idols and 
came into the court-yard, every Lama wished to examine 
and touch my hand, and the sudden change in their be- 
havior was to me a source of curiosity, until I learned 
the real cause of it some weeks later. 

280 



CHAPTER XLVII 

THE JONG PEN'S STATEMENTS REGARDING ME— SECTS OF LAMAS— LA- 
MASERIES — GOVERNMENT ALLOWANCE — IGNORANCE OF THE CROWDS 
— HOW LAMAS ARE RECRUITED— LAMAS, NOVICES, AND MENIALS- 
DANCES AND HYPNOTISM — INFALLIBILITY— CELIBACY AND VICE — 
SCULPTORS— PRAYER-WHEELS AND REVOLVING INSTRUMENTS — NUN- 
NERIES — HUMAN BONES FOR EATING-VESSELS AND MUSICAL INSTRU- 
MENTS — BLOOD-DRINKING 

Before I left the monastery, the Lamas, who had now 
become more or less accustomed to me, asked me many 
questions regarding India and concerning medicine. 
These seemed to be subjects of great interest to them. 
They also questioned me as to whether I had heard that 
a young sahib had crossed over the frontier with a large 
army, which the Jong Pen of Taklakot had defeated, be- 
heading the sahib and the principal members of the ex- 
pedition. 

I professed to be ignorant of these facts, and so I really 
was, though I naturally felt much amused at the casual 
way in which the Jong Pen of Taklakot had disposed of 
the bear-skin before he had even caught the bear itself. 
The Lamas took me for a Hindoo doctor, owing to the 
color of my face, which was sunburned and had long 
remained unwashed, and they thought that I was on a 
pilgrimage of circumambulation round the Mansarowar 
Lake. They appeared anxious to know whether illnesses 
were cured by occult sciences in India, or by medicines 
only. I, who, on the other hand, was more interested in 
getting information than in giving it, turned the conversa- 
tion on the Lamas themselves. 

281 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Of course I knew that there are sects of red, yellow, 
white, and black Lamas, the red ones being the older and 
more numerous throughout the country; next to them 
come the yellow Lamas, the Gelupkas, equally powerful in 
political and religious matters, but not quite so numerous; 
and, lastly, the white Lamas and the black Lamas, the 
Julinba, who are the craftsmen in the monasteries, work- 
ing at painting, printing, pottery, and ornamentation, be- 
sides attending on the other Lamas and making them- 
selves useful all round in the capacities of cooks, shepherds, 
water-carriers, writers, and last, but not least, executioners. 
The Lamaseries are usually very rich, for the Tibetans 
are a deeply devout race, and the Lamas are not backward 
in learning how to extort money from the ignorant wor- 
shippers under pretences of all kinds. Besides attending 
to their religious functions, the Lamas are traders at large, 
carrying on a smart money-lending business, and charging 
a very high interest, which falls due every month. If this 
should remain unpaid, all the property of the borrower is 
confiscated, and if this prove insufficient to repay the loan 
the debtor himself becomes a slave to the monastery. It 
is evident, from the well-fed countenances of the Lamas, 
that, notwithstanding their occasional bodily privations, 
they, as a rule, do not allow themselves to suffer in any 
way, and no doubt can be entertained as to their leading 
a smooth and comfortable existence of comparative lux- 
ury — a condition which frequently degenerates into vice 
and depravity. 

The larger Lamaseries receive a yearly Government 
allowance, and considerable sums are collected from the 
oblations of the faithful, while other moneys are obtained 
by all sorts of devices which, in any country less religious 
than Tibet, would be considered hardly honorable and 
often even altogether criminal. To any one acquainted 

282 



LAMASERIES AND LAMAS 

with Tibet, it is a well-known fact that, except in the larger 
towns, nearly all people besides brigands and Lamas are 
absolutely poor, while the monks themselves and their 
agents live and prosper on the fat of the land. The classes 
are maintained in complete ignorance, and seldom is a 
layman found who can write or even read. Thus every- 
thing has to go through the Lamas' hands before it can 
be sanctioned. 

The Lamaseries and the Lamas, and the land and prop- 
erty belonging to them, are absolutely free from all taxes 
and dues, and each Lama or novice is supported for life 
by an allowance of tsamba, bricks of tea, and salt They 
are recruited from all ranks, and whether honest folks or 
murderers, thieves or swindlers, all are eagerly welcomed 
on joining the brotherhood. One or two male members 
of each family in Tibet take monastic orders, and by these 
means the monks obtain a great hold over each house or 
tent hold. It is hardly an exaggeration to say that in 
Tibet half the male population is made up of Lamas. 

In each monastery are found Lamas, Chabis, and a 
lower grade of ignorant and depraved Lamas, slaves, as it 
were, of the higher order. They dress and have clean- 
shaven heads like their superiors, and do all the handiwork 
of the monastery; but they are mere servants, and take 
no direct active part in the politics of the Lama Govern- 
ment. The Chabis are novices. They enter the Lama- 
sery when very young, and remain students for many 
years. They are constantly under the teaching and super- 
vision of the older ones, and confession is practised from 
inferior to superior. After undergoing successfully sev- 
eral examinations they become effective Lamas, which 
word translated means " high - priest." These Chabis 
take minor parts in the strange religious ceremonies in 
which the Lamas, disguised in skins and ghastly masks, 

283 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

sing and dance with extraordinary contortions to the ac- 
companiment of weird music made by bells, horns, flutes, 
cvmbals, and drums. 

Each large monastery has at its head a Grand Lama, 
not to be confounded with the Dalai Lama of Lhassa, who 
is believed, or rather supposed, to have an immortal soul 
transmigrating successively from one body into another. 

The Lamas eat, drink, and sleep together in the mon- 
astery, with the exception of the Grand Lama, who has a 
room to himself. For one moon in every twelve they ob- 
serve a strict seclusion, which they devote to praying, and 
during which time they are not allowed to speak. They 
fast for twenty-four hours at a time, with only water and 
butter-tea, eating on fast-days sufficient food only to re- 
main alive, and depriving themselves of everything else, 
including snuff and spitting, the two most common habits 
among Tibetan men. 

The Lamas have great pretensions to infallibility, and 
on account t>f this they claim, and obtain, the veneration 
of the people, by whom they are supported, fed, and 
clothed. I found them, as a rule, very intelligent, but in- 
human, barbarously cruel, and dishonorable, and this was 
not my own experience alone. I heard the same from the 
overridden natives, who wish for nothing better than a 
chance to shake off their yoke. 

Availing themselves of the absolute ignorance in which 
they succeed in keeping the people, the Lamas practise 
to a great extent occult arts, by which they profess to 
cure illnesses, discover murders and thefts, stop rivers 
from flowing, and bring storms about at a moments 
notice. Certain exorcisms, they say, drive away the evil 
spirits that cause disease. It is certain that the Lamas 
are adept at hypnotic experiments, by which means they 
contrive to let the subjects under their influence see many 

284 



OCCULT ARTS 

things and objects that are not there in reality. To this 
power are due the frequent reports of apparitions of 
Buddha, seen generally by single individuals, and the 
visions of demons, the accounts of which alone terrify the 
simple-minded folk, and cause them to pay all their spare 
cash in donations to the monastery. 

Mesmerism plays an important part in their weird 
dances, during which extraordinary contortions are per- 
formed and strange positions assumed, the body of the 
dancer being eventually reduced to a cataleptic state, in 
which it remains for a great length of time. 

The Lamas swear to celibacy when they enter a Lama- 
sery; but they do not always keep these vows, and they 
are besides addicted to the most disgusting of all vices in 
its very worst forms, which accounts for the repulsive ap- 
pearance of far- gone depravity so common among the 
middle-aged Lamas. 

All the larger Lamaseries support one or more Lama 
sculptors, who travel all over the district, and go to the 
most inaccessible spots to carve on rocks, stones, or 
pieces of horn, the everlasting inscription, "Omne mani 
padme kun" which one sees all over the country. Un- 
seen, I once succeeded, after much difficulty and discom- 
' fort, in carrying away two of these heavy, inscribed stones, 
which are still in my possession, and of which reproduc- 
tions are given in this volume. 

Weird and picturesque places, such as the highest 
points on mountain passes, gigantic boulders, rocks near 
the sources of rivers, or any spot where a mani wall ex- 
ists, are the places most generally selected by these artists 
to engrave the magic formula alluding to the reincarna- 
tion of Buddha from a lotus flower. 

The famous prayer-wheels, those mechanical contriv- 
ances by which the Tibetans pray to their God by means 

285 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

of water, wind, and hand power, are also manufactured by 
Lama artists. The larger ones, moved by water, are con- 
structed by the side of, or over, a stream, and the huge 
cylinders on which the entire Tibetan prayer-book is in- 
scribed are revolved by the flowing water. The wheels 
moved by wind-power are similar to those used by the 
Shokas, which I have already described, but the Tibetans 




STONE WITH SACRED INSCRIPTION 



often have prayers printed on the slips of cloth. The 
smaller prayer-wheels, revolved by hand, are of two differ- 
ent kinds, and are made either of silver or copper. Those 
for home use are cylinders, about six inches high. Inside 
these revolve on pivots, on the principle of a spinning 
top, the rolls of prayers which, by means of a projecting 
knob above the machine, the worshipper sets in motion. 
The prayers can be seen revolving inside through a 
square opening in the cylinder. The more universal 
prayer-wheel in every-day use in Tibet is, however, of the 
pattern shown in the illustration. It is usually construct- 
ed of copper, sometimes of brass, and frequently entirely 

286 



PRAYER-WHEELS 

or partly of silver. The cylinder has two movable lids, 
between which the prayer-roll fits tightly. A handle with 
an iron rod is passed through the centre of the cylinder 
and roll, and is kept in its place by means of a knob. A 
ring encircling the cylinder attaches it to a short chain 
and weight; this serves, when started by a jerk of the 
hand, to give a rotatory movement, which must, accord- 
ing to rule, be from left to right, and which is kept up 




STONE WITH SACRED INSCRIPTION 



indefinitely, the words, "Ornne mani padme hun" or sim- 
ply " Mani, mani" being repeated as long as rotation is 
kept up. 

The more ancient wheels have the prayers written by 
hand instead of printed, and are contained in a small 
black bag. Charms, such as rings of malachite, jade, 
bone, or silver, are often attached to the weight and chain 
by which the rotary movement is given to the wheel. 
These praying- machines are found in every Tibetan 
family, and nearly every Lama possesses one. They 
keep them jealously, and it is very difficult to get the real 
ones. I was particularly fortunate, and during my jour- 

a 3 287 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

ney in Tibet I was able to purchase as many as twelve, 
two of which were extremely old. 

Besides the rosary, which the Lamas always use in a 
similar way to the Roman Catholics, they have a brass 




1 



PRAYER-WHEELS, ANCIENT AND MODERN. SHOWING ROLLS OF 
PRAYERS REMOVED FROM INSIDE 



instrument which they twist between the palms of their 
hands while saying prayers, and this is used exclusively 
by Lamas. It is from two and a half to three inches in 
length, and is rounded so as to be easily held in the 
hollow of the two hands. 

In Tibet, as in other Buddhist countries, there are nun- 
neries besides Lamaseries. The nuns, unattractive in 

288 



NUNNERIES 

themselves mostly, and looked down upon, shave their 
heads and practise witchcraft and magic, just as the La- 
mas do. In some of these nunneries strict clausura is 
enforced, but in most of them the Lamas are allowed 
free access, with the usual result that the nuns become 
the concubines of the Lamas. Even apart from this, the 
women of the nunneries are quite as immoral as their 
brethren of the Lamaseries, and at their best they are but 
a low type of humanity. 

The Lamas who, at certain periods of the year, are al- 
lowed an unusual amount of freedom with women, are 
those who practise the art of making musical instru- 
ments and eating-vessels out of human bones. The skull 
is used for making drinking -cups, tsamba bowls, and 
single and double drums, and the humerus, femur, and 
tibia bones are turned into trumpets and pipes. These 
particular Lamas are said to relish human blood, which 
they drink out of the cups made from men's skulls. 

289 



CHAPTER XLVIII 

ILLNESSES AND REMEDIES — CURIOUS THEORIES ABOUT FEVER — EVIL 
SPIRITS — BLACKSMITH AND DENTIST— EXORCISMS— SURGICAL OPERA- 
TIONS — MASSAGE AND CUPPING — INCURABLE ILLNESSES — DEFORMI- 
TIES — DEAFNESS — FITS AND INSANITY — MELANCHOLIA— SUICIDES 

The Lamas became quite communicative, enabling 
me, partly with the little Hindustani that I knew and 
partly with the Tibetan I had picked up, to enter into a 
conversation about illnesses and their remedies, certain 
as I was that they must have strange notions on the 
subject. I was not disappointed in this surmise, and 
from that conversation and my own observation on previ- 
ous and subsequent occasions, I am able to give a few 
details of the methods of the Lamas in curing the more 
frequent ailments found in the country. 

The Lamas explained to me that all diseases arose 
from fever, instead of fever being an accompaniment of 
most illnesses, and, furthermore, that fever itself was but 
an evil spirit, which assumed different forms when it en- 
tered the body, and caused all sorts of complaints. The 
fever demon, they asserted, was a spirit, but there were 
yet other demons who were so good as to bring us riches 
and happiness. For instance, when a man after a dan- 
gerous illness visited a cave, waterfall, or river -gorge, 
which these demons were supposed to haunt, he might 
have a relapse and die, or he might be instantly cured 
and live happy ever afterwards. In the latter case,, as 
would naturally be expected, the recipient of such ines- 
timable privileges generally returned to pay a second 

290 



A COMMON COMPLAINT 

visit to the kindly spirits who made his life worth living. 
M But," said the Lamas quite seriously, "when he goes a 
second time he will get blind or paralytic, as a punish- 
ment for his greediness/' 

"The evil spirits," continued a fat old Lama with 
crooked fingers, which he clinched and shook as he 
spoke, " are in the shape of human beings, or like goats, 
dogs, sheep, or ponies, and sometimes they assume the 
semblance of wild animals, such as bears and snow-leop- 
ards." 

I told the Lamas that I had remarked many cases of 
goitre and also other abnormalities, such as harelip and 
webbed fingers and toes, as well as the very frequent oc- 
currence of supernumerary fingers or toes. I asked 
them the reason for such cases, and they attributed 
them, with the exception of webbed fingers, to the mis- 
chievous work of demons before the child's birth ; they 
could not, however, suggest a remedy for goitre. 

Inguinal and umbilical hernia are quite common, as I 
have on several occasions observed, and coarse belts are 
made according to the taste and ingenuity of the suf- 
ferer, but are of hardly any efficacy in preventing the in- 
crease of the swellings. 

A common complaint, especially among the older 
women, was rheumatism, from which they seemed to suf- 
fer considerably. It affected their fingers and toes, and 
particularly the wrists and ankles, the joints swelling 
so as to render them quite stiff, the tendons contract- 
ing, swelling, and becoming prominent and hard in the 
palms of the hands. 

Both before and after my conversation with the Lamas 
I had opportunities of ascertaining that the stomachs of 
the Tibetans are seldom in good working order. But 
how could they be when you consider the gallons of 

291 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

filthy tea which they drink daily, and the liquor to which 
they are so partial ? This poisonous concoction is 
enough to destroy the gastric juices of an ostrich! The 
tongue, as I have mentioned already, is invariably thick- 
ly furred with whitish coating, and Tibetans have often 
complained to me of tumors as well as of painful burn- 
ings in the stomach, the latter undoubtedly caused by 
ulcerations. It is to be regretted that, even in the high 
land of Tibet, the worst of all sexual diseases (called by 
the Tibetans Boru) has made vast numbers of victims, 
palpable traces of it showing themselves in eruptions, 
particularly on the forehead and on the ears, round the 
mouth and under the nostrils, on the arms and legs. In 
cases of very long standing, a peculiar whitish discolora- 
tion of the skin and gums was to be noticed,- with abnor- 
mal contraction of the pupils. That such a disease is 
well rooted in the country we have proof enough in the 
foul teeth which the majority of Tibetans possess. In 
nearly all cases that I examined, the teeth were, even in 
young men, so loose, decayed, and broken as to make me 
feel quite sorry for their owners, and during the whole 
time I was in Tibet — and I came in contact with several 
thousand people — I believe that I could almost count on 
my fingers the sets of teeth that appeared quite regular, 
healthy, and strong. As a rule, too, the women had bet- 
ter teeth than the men. No doubt the admixture of bad 
blood in the Tibetan race contributes a great deal to the 
unevenness and malformation of their teeth, and if we 
add to this the fact that the corruption of the blood, even 
apart from disease, is very great, owing to their pecul- 
iar laws of marriage, it is not surprising that the services 
of dentists are everywhere required. The teeth of Tibe- 
tans are generally of such a brittle nature that the den- 
tist of Tibet — usually a Lama and a blacksmith as well 

292 



TRANSMIGRATION OF EVIL SPIRITS 

— has devised an ingenious way of protecting them from 
further destruction by means of a silver cap incasing the 
broken tooth. I once saw a man with all his front teeth 
covered in this fashion, and as the dentist who had at- 
tended to him had constructed the small cases apparent- 
ly with no regard to shape or comfort, but had made 
most of them end in a point for mastication's sake, the 
poor man had a ghastly appearance every time that he 
opened his mouth. The Tibetans are not very sensitive 
to physical pain, as I have had reason to judge on sev- 
eral occasions, when I have seen teeth extracted in the* 
most primitive fashion, without a sound being emitted 
from the sufferer. 

In Southwestern Tibet the Hunyas (Tibetans) have the 
same strange notions on transmigration of evil spirits 
which are common to the Shokas. For instance, if a man 
falls ill, they maintain that the only remedy is to drive 
away the evil spirit that has entered his body. Now ac- 
cording to Tibetan and Shoka ideas evil spirits always 
enter a living body to satisfy their craving for blood ; 
therefore, to please the spirit and decoy him away, if the 
illness be slight, a small animal, such as a dog or a bird, is 
brought and placed close by the patient ; if the illness be 
grave, a sheep is produced and exorcisms are made in the 
following fashion: a bowl of water is whirled three or 
four times over the sick man's head, and then again over 
the animal selected, upon whose head it is poured. These 
circles, described with certain mystic words, have the power 
of drawing the spirit out of its first quarters and causing 
it to enter the brain of the second victim, upon whose 
skull the water is poured to prevent its returning back. 

11 Of course," said my informer, with an air of great gravi- 
ty, "if you can give the evil spirit a present in the shape of 
a living being that will satisfy him, he will depart quite 

293 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



happy." If the illness is slight, it means that the spirit is 
not much out of temper, and a small present is sufficient 
to satisfy him, but if the disease is serious, nothing less 
than a sheep or even a yak will satisfy him. As soon as 
the spirit has changed his temporary abode the animal is 
quickly dragged away to a crossing of four roads, and 
if there are no roads a cross is previously drawn on the 

ground, where a grave for the animal 
is dug, into which it is mercilessly 
thrown and buried alive. The spirit, 
unable to make a rapid escape, re- 
mains to suck the blood of his last 
victim, and in the mean time the sick 
man, deprived of the company of his 
ethereal and unwelcome guest, has 
time to make a speedy recovery. 
When a smaller animal is used, such 
as a dog or a bird, and when the pa- 
tient complains of more than one ail- 
ment, the poor beast, having been 
conveyed to the crossing of four 
roads, is suddenly seized and brutally 
torn into four parts, which are flung 
in four different directions, the idea being that, wherever 
there may be spirits waiting for blood, they will get their 
share and depart happy. After their craving is satisfied, 
the evil spirits are not very particular whether the blood 
is human or not. In Shoka land especially, branches 
with thorns and small flying prayers are placed on each 
road to prevent their immediate return. These are said 
to be insuperable barriers to the evil spirits. 

When a patient completely recovers, the Lamas natu- 
rally obtain money for the exorcisms which have expelled 
the illness, and they never fail to impress upon the people 

294 



BRANCH WITH THORNS 

TO PREVENT RETURN 

OF EVIL SPIRITS 



INSUPERABLE BARRIERS 

the extraordinary powers they possess over the much- 
dreaded demons. 

The Tibetans are unsuccessful in surgery, first of all 
because they do not possess sufficient knowledge of human 
anatomy; secondly, because their fingers are wanting in 
suppleness and sensitiveness of touch ; and, lastly, because 
they are not able to manufacture instruments of sufficient 
sharpness to perform surgical operations with speed and 
cleanliness. In Tibet everybody is a surgeon, thus woe 
to the unfortunate who needs one. It is true that ampu- 
tation is seldom performed ; but if it should become nec- 
essary, and the operation is at all difficult, the patient in- 
variably succumbs. The Tibetan surgeon does not know 
how to saw bones, and so merely severs the limb at the 
place where the fracture has occurred. The operation is 
performed with any knife or dagger that happens to be at 
hand, and is therefore attended with much pain, and fre- 
quently has disastrous results. The precaution is taken 
to tie up the broken limb above fracture, but it is done in 
such a clumsy way that very often, owing to the bad qual- 
ity of Tibetan blood, mortification sets in, and, as the Tib- 
etans are at a loss what to do on such occasions, another 
victim goes to join the majority. 

Considering the nomadic habits of the Tibetans and 
the rough life they lead, they are comparatively immune 
from very bad accidents. Occasionally there is a broken 
arm or leg, which they manage to set roughly, if the fract- 
ure is not a compound one, by putting the bones back in 
their right position, and by tightly bandaging the limbs 
with rags, pieces of cloth, and rope. Splinters are used 
when wood is obtainable. A powder made from a fungus 
growing on oak-trees in the Himahlyas is imported and 
used by the Tibetans near the frontier. A thick layer of 
it, when wet, is rubbed and left upon the broken limb, 

295 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

over which the bandaging is afterwards done. In a healthy 
person a simple fracture of the leg, which by chance has 
been properly set, takes from twenty to thirty days to heal, 
after which the patient can begin moving about ; and a 
broken arm does not require to be kept in a sling more 
than fifteen or twenty days. If these cures are somewhat 
more rapid than with our more civilized methods of bone 
setting, it is merely due to the wholesome climate and the 
fact that the natives spend most of their days out in the 
open air and in the sun, undoubtedly the best cure for any 
complaint of that kind ; but, of course, it is but seldom 
that the bones are joined properly, and they generally re- 
main a deformity. More satisfactory results are obtained, 
with cases of dislocations, by pulling the bones into their 
right position. 

In case of wounds the bleeding is arrested by the ap- 
plication of a wet rag tightly bound over the wound. In 
most cases of unbandaged wounds that came under my 
notice the process of healing was a very slow one, the 
great changes in the temperature between night and day 
often causing them to open of themselves. They made 
good headw r ay towards recovery in the beginning, but the 
skin was very slow in joining and reforming. 

Burns are treated by smearing butter over them; and a 
poultice of rhubarb is used to send down swellings of con- 
tusions as well as for the purpose of bringing boils, from 
which the Tibetans suffer much, to a speedy maturation. 

Aconite is given for fever and rheumatism, and a rough 
kind of massage is used to allay pain in the muscles of 
limbs. It is generally done by the women, who, as far as 
I could judge, practised it with no real knowledge, but 
merely contented themselves with violent rubbing and 
pinching and thumping until signs of relief appeared on 
the sufferers face. Whether, however, these manifesta- 

296 



A FEW REMEDIES 

tions were due to actual soothing of pain, or to the pros- 
pect of the masseuse bringing her treatment to an end, I 
could never properly ascertain. Tibetan fingers are not 
well adapted for such work, being clumsy, and, compared 
with those of other Asiatic races, quite stiff and hard. 

Cupping is adopted with success. Three or four small 
incisions are made close to one another, and a conical 
cupping-horn, about seven inches long, having a tiny hole 
at its point, is applied over them. The operator then 
sucks through this small aperture until the horn is full of 
blood, when it is removed and the operation begun again. 
With poisoned wounds the sucking is done by applying 
the lips to the wound itself. 

Bleeding is used as a remedy for bruises and swellings, 
and for internal pain, also for acute attacks of rheuma- 
tism and articular pains. If it is not sufficient, the brand- 
ing cure is resorted to, and if this should also fail, then 
the tinder cones come into play, and, the seat of the pain 
being encircled with them, they are set alight. When 
even this remedy proves inefficacious, and the patient 
survives it, the illness is pronounced incurable. 

Natural abnormalities and deformities are frequent 
enough in Tibet, and some came under my notice in 
nearly every camp I entered. Deformities of the spine 
were common, such as displacement of the shoulder- 
blades ; and I saw during my stay in Tibet many cases of 
actually hump-backed people. There were frequent cases, 
too, of crookedness of the legs, and club-foot was not rare, 
while one constantly met with webbed fingers and super- 
numerary fingers and toes, as well as the absence of one 
or more of them. Malformations of the skull, such as 
the two sides being of marked unequal shape or an ab- 
normal distance between the eye-sockets, were the two 
more common deformities that came under my notice. 

297 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

The ears of men of the better classes were much elon- 
gated artificially by the constant wearing of heavy ear- 
rings, which sometimes even tore the lobe of the ear. 

The most frequent and curious of all was the extreme 
swelling of children's stomachs, caused by the umbilical 
cord not being properly tied at birth. The operation was 
generally performed by the mother and father of the 
newly born, or by some friend at hand. The infants had 
such enormous paunches that in some cases they were 
hardly able to stand ; but as they grew older the swelling 
seemed to gradually abate and the body assumed its nor- 
mal shape. 

Deafness was common enough, but I never came 
across any dumb people, though I now and then encoun- 
tered cases of painful stammering and other defects of 
articulation arising from malformation of the palate and 
tongue. 

Occasionally, however, the difficulty of speech was 
caused by dementia, which seemed very common in Tibet, 
especially among the young men. Whether it was caused 
by cardiac affection consequent upon organic vices, as I 
suspected, or by other trouble, I could not say for certain ; 
but presently I based my suspicions on certain facts 
which I happened to notice, besides the presence of symp- 
toms indicating great nervous depression and strain, ex- 
treme weakness of the spine, and oscillations of the hands 
when spread horizontally with the fingers and thumbs 
wide apart. This may in one way be accounted for by 
the difficulty that men have in obtaining wives, owing to 
the scarcity of women. Apoplectic and epileptic fits and 
convulsions were not of very frequent occurrence, but they 
seemed severe when they did occur. The fire cure was 
usually applied in order to drive away the spirits that 
were supposed to have entered the body, but, all the same, 

298 



MELANCHOLIA OF TIBETAN WOMEN 

these fits at times resulted in temporary or occasionally 
permanent paralysis, and much derangement and disfigu- 
ration of the facial expression, particularly about the eyes 
and mouth. I had occasion to study three very good 
specimens of this kind at Tucker, at Tarbar, north of the 
Brahmaputra River, and at Tokchim. 

Much to my regret I never came across any violent 
cases of insanity during my stay in the country, though 
many times I observed strange peculiarities among the 
men, and signs of manias, more particularly religious. 

In women I several times noticed symptoms of melan- 
cholia, caused no doubt by abuse of sexual intercourse, 
owing to their strange laws of polyandry. I was told that 
occasionally it led to suicide by drowning or strangula- 
tion. However, I was never able to keep any of the sus- 
picious cases under close observation for any length of 
time, and, as our arrival into Tibetan camps generally 
created some amount of fear and sensation, and we usual- 
ly left before they could be quite at home with us, I never 
had a chance of studying the subject more closely. 



CHAPTER XLIX 

4 TIBETAN MEDICINE-MAN— LUMBAGO, AND A STARTLING CURE FOR IT 
— COMBUSTIBLE FUSEES — FIRE AND BUTTER— PRAYERS, AGONY, AND 
DISTORTIONS— STRANGE IDEAS ON MEDICINE 

Strange as these remedies seemed to be, they hardly 
came up, as far as interest went, to one I saw applied at a 
place called Kutzia. I had entered a Tibetan camp of 
some twenty or thirty tents, when my attention was drawn 
to an excited crowd collected round an old man whose gar- 
ments had been removed. He was tightly bound with 
ropes, and agony was depicted on his features. A tall, 
long-haired man with red coat and heavy boots knelt by 
the side of the sufferer and prayed fervently, twirling 
round a prayer-wheel which he held in his right hand. 

My curiosity aroused, I approached the gathering, 
whereupon three or four Tibetans got up and signed to 
me to be off. I pretended not to understand, and, after a 
heated discussion, I was allowed to remain. 

An operation was obviously being performed by a Tib- 
etan medicine-man, and the suspense in the crowd round 
the sick man was considerable. The doctor was busy 
preparing combustible fusees, which he wrapped up care- 
fully in silk paper. When cut in the centre they formed 
two cones, each with a little tail of twisted paper protrud- 
ing beyond its summit. Having completed six or eight 
of these, the medicine-man made his patient, or rather his 
victim, assume a sitting posture. I inquired what ailed 
the sick man. From what they told me, and from an ex- 

300 



A TIBETAN MEDICINE-MAN 



amination made on my own account, I was satisfied that 
the man was suffering from an attack of lumbago. The 
coming cure, however, interested me more than the ill- 
ness itself, and the doctor, see- 
ing how absorbed I was in the 
performance, asked me to sit by 
his side. First of all the man 
called for " fire," and a woman 
handed him a blazing brand 
from a fire near by. He swung 
it to and fro in the air, and 
pronounced certain exorcisms. 
Next the patient was subjected 
to a thorough examination, giv- 
ing vent to a piercing yell each 
time that the long, bony fingers 
of the physician touched his 
sides, whereupon the man of 
science, pointing to the spot, in- 
formed' his open - mouthed au- 
dience that the pain was " there." 
Putting on a huge pair of spec- 
tacles, he rubbed with the palm 
of his hand the umbilical region 
of the sufferer and then meas- 
ured with folded thumb two 
inches on each side of and 
slightly under the umbilicus. 
To mark these distances he 
used the burning-brand, apply- 
ing it to the flesh at these points. 

" Murr, murr /" (Butter, butter!) he next called for, 
and butter was produced. Having rubbed a little on the 
burns, he placed upon each of them a separate cone, and 
i. — x 301 




A MEDICINE-MAN 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

pressed until it remained a fixture, the point upward. 
Shifting the beads of a rosary, revolving the praying- 
wheel, and muttering prayers, the medicine -man now 
worked himself into a perfect frenzy. He stared at the 
sun, raising his voice from a faint whisper to a thunder- 
ing barytone at its loudest, and his whole audience 
seemed so affected by the performance that they all 
shook and trembled and prayed in their terror. He 
now again nervously clutched the burning wood in one 
hand, and, blowing upon it with the full strength of his 
lungs, produced a flame. The excitement in the crowd 
became intense. Every one, head down to the ground, 
prayed fervently. The doctor waved the ignited wood 
three or four times in the air and then applied the flames 
to the paper tips of the combustible cones. Apparently 
saltpetre and sulphur had been mixed in the preparation 
of these. They burned fast, making a noise like the fuse 
of a rocket. 

At this juncture the animation of the on-lookers was 
not to be compared with the agitation of the patient, 
who began to feel the effects of this primitive remedy. 
The fire spluttered on his bare skin. The cure was 
doing its work. The wretched man's mouth foamed, and 
his eyes bulged out of their sockets. He moaned and 
groaned, making desperate efforts to unloose the bonds 
that kept his hands fast behind his back. Two stalwart 
men sprang forward and held him while the medicine- 
man and all the women present, leaning over the pros- 
trate form, blew with all their might upon what remained 
of the three smoking cones frizzling away into the flesh 
of the wretched victim. 

The pain of which the man complained seemed to en- 
circle his waist, wherefore the strange physician, having 
untied his patient's arms from behind, and retied them 

302 



A STRANGE CURE 

in front, began his measurements again, this time from 
the spinal column. 

" Chik, ni, sun /" (One, two, three !) he exclaimed, as 
he marked the three spots in the same fashion as before, 
smeared them over with butter, and affixed the cones. 
Here ensued a repetition of the previous excitement, 
prayers, agony, and distortions, but the patient was not 
thoroughly cured, and more cones were subsequently ig- 
nited on both his sides, in spite of his protests and my 
appeals on his behalf. The poor fellow soon had a regu- 
lar circle of severe burns round his body. 

Needless to say, when, two hours later, the operation 
was over, the sick man had become a dying man. With 
a view to obtaining a few hints on Tibetan medicine 
from this eminent physician — the Tibetans held him in 
great esteem — I sent him a small present and requested 
him to visit me. He was flattered, and showed no desire 
to keep his methods a secret, but even pressed me to try 
some of his unique remedies. 

According to him, fire would cure most illnesses ; what 
fire could not cure, water would. He had, neverthe- 
less, some small packets of variously colored powders, for 
which he claimed extraordinary powers. 

" I am afraid your patient will die," I remarked. 

" He may," was the reply, " but it will be the fault of 
the patient, not the cure. Besides, what does it matter 
whether you die to-day or to-morrow?" 

And with this unprofessional dictum he left me. 

34 



CHAPTER L 

TUCKER VILLAGE — CHOKDENS — HOUSES — FLYING PRAYERS — SOLDIERS 
OR ROBBERS ? — A STAMPEDE— FRESH PROVISIONS — DISAPPOINTMENT 
— TREACHERY — SHOKAS LEAVE ME — OBSERVATIONS — FIVE MEN, ALL 
COUNTED 

When I left the Gomba, having been salaamed to the 
ground by my new friends the Lamas, I walked about the 
village to examine all there was to be seen. 

Along the water's edge stood a number of dilapidated 
Chokdens made of mud and stones, with a square base 
surmounted by a moulding, and an upper decoration in 
steps, topped by a cylindrical column. They were in a 
row at the east end of the village, and, as is well known, 
they are supposed to contain a piece of bone, cloth, or 
metal, and books, or parts of them, that had once belonged 
to a great man or a saint. Roughly drawn images are 
occasionally found in them. In rare cases, when crema- 
tion has been applied, the ashes are collected into a small 
earthen-ware urn and deposited in one of the Chokdens. 
The ashes are usually made into a paste with clay, on 
(vhich, when flattened like a medallion, a representation 
of Buddha is either stamped from a mould or engraved 
by means of a pointed tool. 

The interiors of the houses at Tucker were no more 
pleasing than the exteriors. Each habitation had a walled 
court-yard, and the top of the wall, as well as the edge of 
the flat roof, was lined with masses of tamarisk for fuel. 
In the court-yard sheep and goats were penned at night; 
and the human beings who occupied the rooms were dirty 

304 




o 



r 
> 
o 

> 
o 

o 
o 

> 





BUYING PROVISIONS 

beyond all description. There were hundreds of flying 
prayers over the monastery as well as over each house, 
and, as the people stood on their roofs watching us, laugh- 
ing and chatting, the place had quite a gay aspect. 

While I was strolling about some fifty or sixty men ap- 
peared on the scene, armed with matchlocks and swords, 
and I looked upon them with suspicion, but Kachi reas- 
sured me, and said they were not soldiers, but a powerful 
band of robbers encamped about half a mile off, and on 
very friendly terms with the Lamas. As a precaution, I 
loaded my rifle, which was quite sufficient to occasion a 
stampede of the armed crowd, followed, in the panic, by 
all the other villagers that had collected round us. Like 
all Tibetans, they were a miserable lot, though powerfully 
built and with plenty of bounce about them. 

Early in the morning I had made inquiries about pro- 
visions, and had arranged for the purchase of two fat 
sheep and some 450 lbs. of food (flour, rice, tsamba, ghur, 
sugar, salt, and butter), and several Tibetans stated that 
they could supply me with any quantity I required. 
Among others was a trader from Buddhi, Darcey Bura's 
brother, who promised to bring me w 7 ithin an hour a suf- 
ficient quantity of food to last us ten men twenty-five days. 
I noticed, when these men left, that two of my Shokas ran 
after them, and entered into an excited discussion with 
them. Some two or three hours later the traders returned, 
swearing that not an ounce of food could be obtained in the 
place. The way in which these men could lie was indeed 
marvellous to study. I suspected treachery, and reprimand- 
ed my Shokas, threatening to punish them very severely if 
I could prove that my suspicions were well founded. 

The Shokas, finding themselves discovered, and partly 
through fear of the Tibetans, were now again quite un- 
reasonable and demoralized, so much so that I decided to 

305 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

discharge them. It was no use keeping them by force. From 
the moment I had entered the forbidden country I had been 
compelled to protect myself against them as much as 
against the Tibetans. I reflected, however, when I made 
up my mind to let them go, that these fellows had stood 
for my sake hardships and privations which few men could 
stand, and in paying them off I therefore rewarded them 



THE PANKU GOMBA 



suitably, and they undertook to bring back safely across 
the frontier part of my baggage containing photographs, 
ethnological collections, etc. With infinite trouble I then 
managed to purchase enough provisions to last four men 
ten days. 

The whole party accompanied me three and a quarter 
miles farther, where, in sight of the tumble-down Panku 
Gomba, a mile to the west of us, we halted in order to 
make the necessary arrangements for our parting, unseen 
by the Tibetans. I took observations for latitude and lon- 

306 



THE FIVE SHOKAS QUIT 

gitude. The water of the hypsometrical apparatus boiled 
at 1 85° Fahr. fifty feet above the level of the lake, the tem- 
perature of the air being 76° and the hour 10 a.m. 

We had a high snowy chain to the south of us, extend- 
ing from 70° to 33° (b. m.), the direction of the range being 
approximately from southwest to northeast, starting at 
Nimo Nangil. 

When everything was ready the five Shokas, including 
Kachi and Dola, left me, swearing by the sun and all that 
they hold most sacred that they would in no way betray 
me to the Tibetans, who so far had no suspicion as to who 
I was. 

Bijesing the Johari and the Kutial Bura Nattoo agreed 
to accompany me as far as the Maium Pass, so that my 
party, including myself, was now reduced to only five. 

307 



END OF VOL. I 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

BOOK II 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



CHAPTER LI 

THE START WITH A FURTHER REDUCED PARTY — A RECONNAISSANCE — 
NATURAL FORTRESS — BLACK TENTS AND ANIMALS — ON THE WRONG 
TACK — SLINGS AND THEIR USE— A VISIT TO A TIBETAN CAMP — MIS- 
TAKEN FOR BRIGANDS — BARGAINING AND BEGGING 

All was promising well when, with my reduced party, 
I started towards the northeast, first following for three 
and a quarter miles a course of 49 , # skirting the lake, 
then ascending over the barren hill ranges in a direction 
of 90° for a distance of twelve miles. The journey was un- 
eventful, and my four men seemed in the best of spirits. 
We descended to a plain where water and grass could be 
found, and having seen a camping- ground with a pro- 
tecting wall, such as are usually put up by Tibetans at 
their halting- places, we made ourselves comfortable for 
the night, notwithstanding the high wind and a passing 
storm of hail and rain, which drenched us to the skin. 
The thermometer during the night went down to 34°. 

At sunrise I started to make a reconnaissance from 
the top of a high hill wherefrom I could get a bird's-eye 
view of a great portion of the surrounding country. It 
was of the utmost importance for me to find out which 

* All bearings given are magnetic. 

I 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

would be the easiest way to get through the intricate suc- 
cession of hills and mountains, and to discover the exact 
direction of a large river to the north of us, throwing 
itself into the Mansarowar, the name of which no one 
could tell me. I started alone towards 35 2° 3c/ (b. m.), 
and three and a half miles' climb brought me to 16,480 
feet on the summit of a hill, where I was able to ascer- 
tain and note down all that I wished to know. I re- 
turned to camp, and we went on towards 73° 3c/, cross- 
ing over a pass 16,450 feet, and ultimately finding our- 
selves at the foot of a hill, the summit of which resembled 
a fortress, with flying-prayers flapping to and fro in the 
wind. At the foot of the hill were some twenty ponies 
grazing. 

With the aid of my telescope I was able to make sure 
that what at first appeared to be a castle was nothing 
but a work of nature, and that apparently no one was 
concealed up there. The ponies, however, indicated the 
presence of men, and we had to move cautiously. In 
fact, rounding the next hill, we discerned in the grassy 
valley below a number of black tents, two hundred yaks, 
and about a thousand sheep. We kept well out of sight 
behind the hill, and making a long detour, we at last de- 
scended to an extensive valley, in which the river de- 
scribed a semicircle, washing the southern hill ranges, 
where it was joined by a tributary coming from the 
southeast. This tributary at first appeared to me larger 
than what I afterwards recognized to be the main stream, 
so that I followed its course for four miles (92 30' b. m.), 
till I found that it was taking me in a more southerly di- 
rection than I wished, and had to retrace my steps along 
a flattish plateau. Meeting two Tibetan women, I pur- 
chased, after endless trouble, a fat sheep out of a flock 
they were driving before them. These two females car- 

2 





A NATURAL CASTLE 



DANGEROUS FEMALES 

ried rope slings in their hands, and the accuracy with 
which they could fling stones and hit the mark at very 
great distances was really marvellous. For the sake of a 
few annas they gave an exhibition of their skill, hitting 
any sheep you pointed at in their flock, even at distances of 
thirty and forty yards. I tried to obtain from 
these dangerous females a little information about 
the country, but they professed absolute igno- 
rance. 

" We are menials," they said, " and we know 
nothing. We know each sheep in our flock, and 
that is all. but our lord, of whom we are the 
slaves, knows all. He knows where the rivers 
come from, and the ways to all Gombas. He is 
a great king." 

" And where does he live?" I inquired. 

" There, two miles off, where that smoke rises 
to the sky." 

The temptation was great to go and call on 
this " great king," who knew so many things, all 
the more so as we might probably persuade him 
to sell us provisions, which, as we had none too 
many, would be of great assistance to us. Anyhow the 
visit would be interesting, and I decided to risk it. 

We steered towards the several columns of smoke that 
rose before us, and eventually we approach a large camp 
of black tents. Our appearance caused a good deal of 
commotion, and men and women rushed in and out of 
their tents in great excitement. 

" J°gp as > f J°gp as • / " (Brigands! Brigands!) somebody 
in their camp shouted, and in a moment their matchlocks 
were made ready, and the few men who had remained 
outside the tents drew their swords, holding them clum- 
sily in their hands in z way hardly likely to terrify any one. 

3 



I 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

To be taken for brigands was a novel experience for 
us, and the warlike array was in strange contrast to the 
terrified expressions on the faces of those who stood 
there armed. In fact, when Chanden Sing and I walked 
forward and encouraged them to sheathe their steels and 
put their matchlocks by, they readily followed our advice, 
and brought out rugs for us to sit upon. Having over- 
come their fright, they were now most anxious to be pleasant. 
" Kiula gunge gozai deva labodu " (You have nice 
clothes). I began the conversation, attempting flattery, 

to put the chieftain at his ease. 

" Lasso, leh " (Yes, sir), an- 
swered the Tibetan, apparently 
astonished, and looking at his 
own attire with an air of com- 
ical pride. 

His answer was sufficient to 
show me that the man consid- 
ered me his superior, the affirm- 
i 1 \ ative in Tibetan to an equal or 

inferior being the mere word 

™ ^W " Kiula tuku taka zando ?" 

woman carrying child (How many children have you?) 
in basket I rejoined. 

"iW"(Two). 
" Chuwen bogpe, tsamba, chon won l ?" (Will you sell 
me flour or tsamba ?) 

" Middu" (Have not got any), he replied, making sev- 
eral quick semicircular movements with the upturned 
palm of his right hand. 

This is a most characteristic action of the Tibetan, and 
nearly invariably accompanies the word " No," instead of 
a movement of the head, as with us. 

4 




ABJECT BEGGING 

" Keran ga naddoung?" (Where are you going?) he 
asked me, eagerly. 

" Nhgarang ne Koroun /" (I am a pilgrim !) " Lungba 
quorghen neh jelghen? (I go looking at sacred places.) 

" Gopria zaldo. Chakzal wortzie. Tsamba middu. 
Bogpe middu, guram middu, die middu, kassur middu" 
(I am very poor. Please hear me. I have no tsamba, no 
flour, no sweet paste, no rice, no dried fruit.) 

This, of course, I knew to be untrue, so I calmly said 
that I would remain seated where I was until food was 
sold to me, and at the same time produced one or two 
silver coins, the display of which to the covetous eyes of 
the Tibetans was always the means of hastening the 
transaction of business. In small handfuls, after each of 
which the Tibetans swore that they had not another 
atom to sell, I managed, with somewhat of a trial to my 
patience, to purchase some twenty pounds of food. The 
moment the money was handed over they had a quarrel 
among themselves about it, and almost came to blows, 
greed and avarice being the most marked characteristic 
of the Tibetans. No Tibetan of any rank is ashamed to 
beg in the most abject manner for the smallest silver 
coin, and when he sells and is paid, he always implores 
for another coin, to be thrown into the bargain, to obtain 
which, however small, a Tibetan of even a good position 
will stoop to almost any trick. 
26 



CHAPTER LII 

WHAT THE MEN WERE LIKE — THEIR TIMIDITY — LEATHER - WORK— 
METAL-WORK— BLADES AND SWORDS— FILIGREE — SADDLES AND HAR- 
NESS — PACK-SADDLES 

The men of the party were extremely picturesque, with 
hair flowing down their shoulders and long pigtails orna- 
mented with pieces of red cloth, circles of ivory, and sil- 
ver coins. Nearly all had the stereotyped pattern coat, 
with ample sleeves hanging well over the hands, and 
pulled up at the waist to receive the paraphernalia of eat- 
ing-bowls, snuff-box, etc., employed in daily life. Most of 
them were dressed in dark red, and all were armed with 
jewelled swords. 

With flat, broad noses and slits of piercing eyes, high 
cheek-bones, and skin giving out abundant oily excre- 
tions, most of the men stood at a respectful distance, 
scrutinizing our faces and watching our movements ap- 
parently with much interest. I have hardly ever seen 
such cowardice and timidity as among these big, hulk- 
ing fellows ; to a European it hardly seems conceivable. 
The mere raising of one's eyes was sufficient to make a 
man dash away frightened, and, with the exception of the 
chief, who pretended to be unafraid, notwithstanding that 
even he was trembling with fear, they one and all showed 
ridiculous nervousness when I approached them to exam- 
ine their clothes or the ornaments they wore round their 
necks, the most prominent of which were the charm- 
boxes that dangled on thqir chests. The larger of these 

6 



CHARM-BOXES 

charm-boxes contained an image of Buddha, the others 
were mere brass or silver cases with nothing in them. 

I was struck here, as well as in other camps, by the 
skill of the Tibetans in working leather, which they tan 




TIBETAN YOUNG MAN 

and prepare themselves, often giving to it a fine red or 
green color. As a rule, however, the natural tint is pre- 
served, especially when the leather is used for belts, bullet 
and powder pouches, and flint-and-steel cases. The hair 
of the skins is removed by plucking and scraping, and 

7 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

preference is shown for skins of the yak, antelope, and 
kiang. The Tibetans are masters of the art of skinning, 
the hides being afterwards beaten, trodden upon, and 
manipulated to be rendered soft. There were simple 
ornamentations stamped upon some of the leather articles, 
but in most instances either metal or leather ornaments 




^= 



yfrrf 



*f^=^ 




SWORDS 



of various colors were fastened on the belts and pouches, 
iron clasps inlaid with silver, or silver ones, being the com- 
monest. 

These metals are found in the country, and the Tibetans 
smelt and cast the ore when sufficient fuel is obtaina- 
ble for the purpose. Earthen crucibles are employed to 
liquefy the metals, and the castings are made in clay 
moulds. For the inlaid work, in which the Tibetans 
greatly excel, they use hammer and chisel. Inlaid orna- 
mentation is frequently to be seen on the sheaths of 



SWORDS 

Tibetan swords, the leaf pattern, varied scrolls, and geo- 
metrical combinations being most commonly preferred. 
The process of hardening metals is still in its infancy, 
and Tibetan blades are of wrought-iron, and not of steel. 
They succeed, however, in bringing them to a wonderful 




SADDLE 



degree of sharpness, although they entirely lack the elas- 
ticity of steel blades. Grooves to let in air, and thus 
make wounds incurable, are generally ground in the sides 
of the daggers, but the blades of the common swords are 
perfectly smooth and made to cut on one side only. As 
can be seen from the illustration, these weapons are hard- 
ly adapted to meet the requirements of severe fighting, 
as they do not allow a firm grip, nor have they any 

9 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

guard for the hand. The sheaths and handles of some 
of the more valuable swords are made of solid silver, inlaid 
with turquoises and coral beads, others of silver with gold 
ornamentations. At Lhassa and at Shigatz (Shigatze), 
silver filigree decorations are used on the best daggers ; 
but nowhere else in Tibet is fine wire manufactured. 

It must not be inferred from the above remarks that 
there are no steel swords in Tibet, for indeed many fine 
blades of excellent Chinese steel can be seen all over the 
country in the possession of the richer officials, such as 
the huge two-handed, double-edged swords of Chinese 
importation, used by Tibetan executioners. 

The saddles, though possibly lacking comfort, are never- 
theless skilfully made. The frame is made of solid wood 
(imported), and set in hammered iron (often inlaid with 
silver and gold, as in the saddle here reproduced), which, 
like a Mexican saddle, is very high in front and at the 
back. Lizard skin or colored leather is employed to dec- 
orate certain parts, and a pad covers the seat. A rug is, 
however, invariably placed over this pad for comfort, and 
the short iron stirrups compel one to sit with legs doubled 
up, a really not uncomfortable position when one gets 
used to it. Breast-piece, crupper, bridle, and bit are of 
leather ornamented with inlaid metal pieces. Double 
bags, for tsamba, butter, etc., are fastened behind the 
saddle, together with the inevitable peg and long rope, 
with which no Tibetan rider is unprovided, for the teth- 
ering of his pony at night. 

Pack-saddles for yaks are made on the same principle, 
but are of much rougher construction, as can be judged 
from the illustration, # in which the two saddles I used 
on my journey are represented. The baggage is made 

* See Chapter XL. 
IO 



SADDLES 

fast by means of ropes to the two upper bars. To keep 
the saddle in position on the yak, and to prevent sores 
being inflicted, pads and blankets are laid upon the ani- 
mal's back. Add to this protection the long coat pos- 
sessed by the beast itself, and it will be clear why a yak 
seldom sustains the slightest injury from these apparently 
cruel burdens. 



CHAPTER LIII 

RAIN IN TORRENTS — A MISERABLE NIGHT— A GORGE— A GIGANTIC IN 
SCRIPTION — SHELTERED UNDER BOULDERS — A FRESH SURPRISE — 
ONLY TWO FOLLOWERS LEFT 

When night came on I did not consider it safe to en- 
camp near the Tibetans. We moved away, driving our 
yaks before us and dragging the newly purchased sheep. 
We marched two and a half miles, and then halted in a 
depression in the ground (16,050 feet), where we had a 
little shelter from the wind, which blew with great force. 
To our right lay a short range of fairly high mountains 
running from north to south, and cut by a gorge, out of 
which flowed a large stream. At that time of the even- 
ing we could not hope to cross it, but an attempt might 
be made in the morning, when the cold of the night 
would have checked the melting of the snows. Heavy 
showers had fallen frequently during the day, and the 
moment the sun went down there was a regular down- 
pour. Our little tente d'abri had been pitched, but we 
had to clear out of it a couple of hours later, the small 
basin in which we had pitched it having been turned into 
a regular pond. There was no alternative for us but to 
come out into the open, for where the water did not flood 
us the wind was so high and the ground so moist that it 
was not possible to keep our tent up. The pegs would 
not hold. The hours of the night seemed very long as 
we sat tightly wrapped up in our waterproofs, with feet, 
hands, and ears frozen, and the water dripping down upon 

12 




> 






> 

H 



n 
2 

H 

O 
2 








DESERTERS 

us. At dawn there were no signs of the storm abating. 
We had not been able to light a fire in the evening, nor 
could we light one now, and we were cold, hungry, and 
miserable. The thermometer had been down to 36 . Tow- 
ards noon, the rain still pouring down in torrents and 
there being no sign of its clearing, we loaded our yaks and 
entered the gorge between the snow-covered mountains. 
With difficulty we crossed the tributary we had so far 
followed, and then proceeded alqng the right bank of the 
main stream to 23 30", then to 25 . 

We were so exhausted and wet that when towards 
evening we came to an enormous cliff, on the rocky face 
of which a patient Lama sculptor had engraved in gigan- 
tic letters the everlasting characters, " Omne mani padme 
hun" we halted. The gorge was very narrow here, and 
we managed to find a dry spot under a big boulder, but 
as there was not sufficient room for all five, the two 
Shokas went under the shelter of another rock a little 
way off. This seemed natural enough, nor could I antici- 
pate any danger, taking care myself of the weapons and 
the scientific instruments, while the Shokas had under 
their own sheltering boulder the bags containing nearly 
all our provisions except tinned meats. The rain pelted 
all night, the wind howled, and again we could not light 
a fire. The thermometer did not fall below 38 , but the 
cold, owing to our drenched condition, seemed intense. 
In fact, we were so frozen that we did not venture to eat, 
but, crouching ourselves in the small dry space at our dis- 
posal, we eventually fell fast asleep without tasting food. 
I slept soundly for the first time since I had been in 
Tibet, and it was broad daylight when I woke up, to find 
the man Nattoo from Kuti, and Bijesing the Johari, de- 
parted from under their sheltering rock, together with the 
loads intrusted to them. I discovered their tracks, half 

13 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

washed away, in the direction from which we had come 
the previous night. The rascals had bolted, and there 
would have been comparatively little harm in that, if only 
they had not taken with them all the stock of provisions 
for my two Hindoo servants, and a quantity of good rope, 
straps, and other miscellaneous articles, which we were 
bound to miss at every turn, and which we had absolute- 
ly no means of replacing. 

Of thirty picked servants who had started with me, 
twenty-eight had now abandoned me, and only two re- 
mained — faithful Chanden Sing and Mansing the leper ! 

The weather continued horrible, with no food for my 
men and no fuel ! I proposed to the two to go back also 
and let me continue alone. I described to them the dan- 
gers of following me farther, and warned them fully, but 
they absolutely refused to leave me. 

" Sahib, we are not Shokas," were their words. " If 
you die, we will die with you. We fear not death. We 
are sorry to see you suffer, sahib, but never mind us. We 
are only poor people, therefore it is of no consequence." 



CHAPTER LIV 

MY TIME FULLY OCCUPIED— OUR OWN YAK DRIVERS — A HEAVY BLOW 
—ALONG THE STREAM— SOLDIERS IN PURSUIT OF US— DISCOVERED 

This last disaster should, I suppose, have deterred us 
from further progress, but it somehow made me even 
more determined to persist than I was before. It was no 
light job to have to run afield one's self to capture the 
yaks, which had wandered off in search of grass ; and 
having found them and driven them back to our primitive 
camping-place, to tie upon their backs the pack-saddles, 
and fasten on them the heavy tin-lined cases of scientific 
instruments and photographic plates. This task was 
only part of the day's routine, which included the writing 
up of my diary, the registering of observations, sketching, 
photographing, changing plates in cameras, occasionally 
developing them, surveying, cleaning of rifles, revolver, 
etc., etc. The effort of lifting up the heavy cases on to 
the pack-saddles was, owing to our exhausted condition, 
a severe tax on our strength, and the tantalizing restless- 
ness of the yaks forced us to make several attempts be- 
fore we actually succeeded in properly fastening the loads, 
particularly as we had lost our best pieces of rope and 
leather straps. Our sole remaining piece of rope seemed 
hardly long enough to make the final knot to one of the 
girths; anyhow, neither my bearer nor Mansing had suf- 
ficient strength to pull and make it join ; so I made them 
hold the yak by the horns to keep him steady while I 
pulled my hardest. I succeeded with a great effort, and 

IS 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

was about to get up, when a terrific blow from the yak's 
horn struck me in the skull, an inch behind my right ear, 
and sent me rolling head over heels. I was stunned for 
several moments, and the back of my head was swollen 
and sore for many days. 




YAK WITH CASES OF SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTS 

(Photograph taken in India, after my return) 

We proceeded along the right bank of the river on a 
course of 85 between reddish hills and distant high snowy 
mountains to the northwest and east-southeast of us, 
which we saw from time to time when the rain ceased 
and the sky cleared. The momentary lifting of the clouds 
would be followed by another downpour, and the marching 
became very unpleasant and difficult, as we sank deep in 
the mud. Towards evening we suddenly discovered some 
hundred and fifty soldiers riding full gallop in pursuit of 

16 



PHANTOM-LIKE FIGURES 

us along the river valley. We pushed on, and having 
got out of their sight behind a hill, we deviated from our 
course and rapidly climbed up to the top of the hill 
range ; my two men and the yaks concealed themselves 
on the other side. I remained lying flat on the top of 
the hill, spying with my telescope the movements of our 




WITH ONLY TWO MEN I PROCEEDED TOWARDS LHASSA 



pursuers. They rode unsuspectingly on, the tinkling of 
their horse-bells sounding pleasant to the ear at that de- 
serted spot. They made a pretty picture, and, thinking 
probably that we had continued our way along the river, 
they rode past the spot where we had left the path, and, 
possibly owing to their haste to catch us up, did not 
notice our tracks up the hill-side. 

Rain began to fall heavily again, and we remained en- 
camped at 1 7,000 feet with all our loads ready for flight at 
any moment, the night being spent none too comfortably. 

17 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

I sat up all night, rifle in hand, in case of a surprise, and 
I was indeed glad when day dawned. The rain had 
stopped, but we were now enveloped in a white mist 
which chilled us. I was very tired, and telling Chanden 
Sing to keep a sharp watch, tried to sleep for a while. 

" Hazur, hazur ! jaldi apka banduk /" (Sir, sir ! quick, 
your rifle !) muttered my bearer, rousing me. " Do you 
hear the sound of bells ?" 

The tinkling was quite plain. As our pursuers were 
approaching, evidently in a strong body, there was no 
time to be lost. To successfully evade them appeared 
impossible. I decided to meet them rather than attempt 
flight. Chanden Sing and I were armed with our rifles, 
and Mansing with his Gourkha kukri, and thus we await- 
ed their arrival. There came out of the mist a long pro- 
cession of gray, phantom-like figures, each one leading a 
pony. The advance guard stopped from time to time to 
examine the ground ; having discovered our footprints 
only partially washed away by the rain, they were follow- 
ing them up. Seeing us at last on the top of the hill, 
they halted. There was commotion among them, and 
they held an excited consultation ; some of them unslung 
their matchlocks, others drew their swords, while we sat 
on a rock above and watched them with undivided atten- 
tion. 



CHAPTER LV 

AN INTERVIEW — PEACE OR WAR? — GIFTS AND THE SCARF OF FRIEND- 
SHIP—THE KATA — THE END OF A FRTENDLY VTSIT 

After hesitating a little, four officers signalled to us 
that they wished to approach. 

" You are a great king !" shouted one at the top of his 
voice, " and we want to lay these presents at your feet," 
and he pointed to some small bags which the other three 
men were carrying. "Gelbo! Chakzal! Chakzal /" 
(We salute you, king !) 

I felt anything but regal after the wretched night we 
had spent, but I wished to treat the natives with due def- 
erence and politeness whenever it was possible. 

I said that four men might approach, but the bulk of 
the party was to withdraw to a spot about two hundred 
yards away. This they immediately did, a matter of some 
surprise to me after the warlike attitude they had assumed 
at first. They laid their matchlocks down in the hum- 
blest fashion, and duly replaced their swords in their 
sheaths. The four officers approached, and when quite 
close to us, threw the bags on the ground and opened 
them to show us their contents. There w 7 as tsamba, flour, 
chura (a kind of cheese), guram (sweet paste), butter, and 
dried fruit. The officers were most profuse in their hum- 
ble salutations. They had removed their caps and thrown 
them on the ground, and they kept their tongues stick- 
ing out of their mouths until I begged them to draw 
them in. They professed to be the subordinates of the 
27 19 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



Tokchim Tarjum, who had despatched them to inquire 
after my health, and who wished me to look upon him as 
my best friend. Well aware of the difficulties we must 
encounter in travelling through such an inhospitable 
country, the Tarjum, they said, wished me to accept the 

gifts they now laid before me, and 
with these they handed me a Kata, 
or " the scarf of love and friend- 
ship," a long piece of thin silklike 
gauze, the ends of which had been 
cut into a fringe. In Tibet these 
Katas accompany every gift, and 
no caller ever goes about without 
one, w r hich instantly on arrival he 
produces for presentation to his 
host. The high Lamas sell them 
to devotees, and one or more of 
these scarves is presented to those 
who leave a satisfactory oblation 
after visiting a Lamasery and tem- 
ple. If a verbal message is sent 
to a friend, a Kata is sent with it, 
and among officials and Lamas 
small pieces of this silk gauze are 
enclosed even in letters. Not to 
give or send a Kata to an honored visitor is considered 
a breach of good manners, and is equivalent to a slight. 
I hastened to express my thanks for the Tarjum 's kind- 
ness, and I handed the messengers a sum in silver of 
three times the value of the articles presented. The 
men seemed very pleasant and friendly, and we chatted 
for some time. Much to my annoyance, poor Mansing, 
bewildered at the sight of so much food, could no longer 
resist the pangs of hunger, and, caring little for the breach 

20 




A KATA 



AN INVITATION 

of etiquette and likely consequences, proceeded to fill his 
mouth with handfuls of flour, cheese, and butter. This led 
the Tibetans to suspect that we must be starving, and 
with their usual shrewdness they determined to take ad- 
vantage of it. 

" The Tarjum," said the oldest of the messengers, 
"wishes you to come back and be his guest, when he 
will feed you and your men, and you will then go back 
to your country." 

" Thank you," I replied ; " we do not want the Tarjum's 
food, nor do we wish to go back. I am greatly obliged 
for his kindness, but we will continue our journey." 

" Then," angrily said a young and powerful Tibetan, 
" if you continue your journey we will take back our 
gifts." 

" And your Kata /" I rejoined, sending first the large 
ball of butter flying into his chest, and after it the small 
bags of flour, tsamba, cheese, fruit, etc., a minute earlier 
prettily laid out before us. 

This unexpected bombardment quite upset the Tib- 
etans, who, with powdered coats, hair and faces, scam- 
pered away as best they could, while Chanden Sing, al- 
ways as quick as lightning when it was a case of hitting, 
pounded away with the butt of his rifle at the roundest 
part of one ambassador's body, as in his clumsy clothes he 
attempted to get up and run. 

Mansing, the philosopher of our party, interrupted in 
his feed but not put out, nor concerned in what was 
going on, picked up the fruit and cheese and pieces of 
butter scattered all over the place, mumbling that it was 
a shame to throw T away good food in such a reckless 
fashion. 

The soldiers, who had been watching attentively from 
a distance the different phases of the interview, con- 

21 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

sidered it prudent to beat a hasty retreat, and, mounting 
their steeds with unmistakable dispatch, galloped pell-mell 
down the hill, and then along the valley of the river, until 
they were lost to sight in the mist, while the poor ambas- 
sadors, who had been unable to rejoin their ponies, fol- 
lowed as quickly as possible under the circumstances, 
considering the rarefied air and rough ground. 

Their cries of distress, caused by fear alone, for we had 
done them no harm, served to strengthen the contempt 
in w 7 hich my men by now held the Tibetan soldiers and 
their officers. 

The scene really was comical, and I made as much 
capital as I could out of it, laughing with my companions 
and ridiculing to them the supposed valor of Tibetans. 

When the Tibetans were out of sight, Chanden Sing 
and I pocketed our pride and helped Mansing to collect 
the dried dates, apricots, the pieces of chura, butter, and 
guram. Then having loaded our yaks we marched on. 



CHAPTER LVI 

RAIN IN TORRENTS — A SWAMPY PLAIN — THE SUN AT LAST — OUR YAKS 
STOLEN AND RECOVERED 

We were not in luck. The weather continued squally 
in the morning, and in the afternoon the rain was again 
torrential. We went towards 78 over uninteresting and 
monotonous gray country with a chain of snowy peaks 
stretching from southwest to northeast. We waded 
through a fairly deep and very cold river, and subsequent- 
ly rose over a pass 17,450 feet. A number of Hunyas, 
with flocks of several thousand sheep, came in sight, but 
we avoided them. They did not see us. 

At the point where we crossed it, the main stream 
turns in a graceful bend to 140° (b. m.). We climbed over 
hilly and barren country to an altitude of 17,550 feet, 
where several small lakelets were to be found, and, having 
marched in all fourteen and a half miles in a drenching 
rain, we descended into a large valley. Here we had 
great difficulty in finding a spot where to rest for the 
night. The plain was simply a swamp, with several lakes 
and ponds, and we sank everywhere in mud and water. 
All our bedding and clothes were soaked to such an ex- 
tent that it really made no difference where we halted ; so 
we pitched our little tent on the banks of a stream com- 
ing out of a valley to the north, from which, extending in 
an easterly direction, rose a series of pyramidal moun- 
tains, covered with snow, and all of almost equal height 
and base. To the south were high peaks with great 

23 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

quantities of snow upon them. This valley was at an 
elevation of 17,450 feet, and the cold was intense. 

At night the rain came down in bucketsful, and our 
tente d'abri gave us but little shelter. We were lying in- 
side in w 7 ater, and all the trenches in the world could not 
have kept it from streaming in. In fact, it is no exagger- 
ation to say that the whole valley was a sheet of water 
from one to several inches deep. Of course, we suffered 
intensely from cold, the thermometer dropping to 26° at 
8 p.m., when a southeast wind blew furiously ; and the rain 
fell mixed with sleet for a time, and was followed by a 
heavy snow-storm. We lay crouched up on the top of our 
baggage, so as not to sleep on the frozen water, and when 
we woke in the morning our tent had half collapsed owing 
to the weight of snow upon it. During the day the tem- 
perature went up and rain fell afresh, so that when we 
resumed our marching we sank into a mixture of mud, 
snow and water several inches deep. We had to cross 
three rivers, and to skirt five lakes of varying sizes, follow- 
ing a course of 83 45'. 

Seven miles of this dreary marching saw us encamped 
(1 7,380 feet) by the foot of a conical hill 1 7,500 feet, where 
an almost identical repetition of the previous night's ex- 
perience took place. The thermometer was dow T n to 32 , 
but fortunately the wind subsided at eight in the evening. 
As luck would have it, the sun came out the following 
day, and we were able to spread out all our things to dry, 
during which process we had yet another novel ex- 
perience. 

Our two yaks had disappeared. I climbed up to the 
summit of the hill above camp, and with my telescope 
scoured the plain. The two animals were some distance 
off, being led away by ten or twelve men on horseback, 
who drove in front of them a flock of about five hundred 

24 







I 2 







> 
5 



: 



OUR YAKS STOLEN 

sheep. By their clothing I recognized the strangers to 
be robbers. Naturally I started post haste to recover my 
property, leaving Chanden Sing and Mansing in charge 
of our camp. I caught them up as they marched slowly, 
though, when they perceived me, they hastened on, trying 
to get away. I shouted three times to them to stop, but 
they paid no heed to my words, so that I unslung my 




HEAD OF BRIGAND 



rifle, and would have shot at them had the threat alone 
not been sufficient to make them reflect. They halted, 
and when I got near enough I claimed my two yaks back. 
They refused to give them up. They said they were 
twelve men, and were not afraid of one. Dismounted from 
their ponies, they seemed ready to go for me. 

As I saw them take out a flint and steel to light the 
fuses of their matchlocks, I thought I might as well have 

25 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

my innings first, and, before they could guess at my in- 
tention, I applied a violent blow with the muzzle of my 
rifle to the stomach of the man nearest to me. He col- 
lapsed, while I administered another blow to the right 
temple of another man who held his matchlock between 
his legs, and was on the point of striking his flint and 
steel to set the tinder on fire. He, too, staggered and 
fell clumsily. 




BRIGANDS WITH SHEEP 



" Chakzal, chakzal ! Chakzal wortzie /" (We salute 
you, we salute you ! Please listen !) exclaimed a third 
brigand, with an expression of dismay, and holding up 
his thumbs with his fist closed in sign of approval. 

" Chakzal" I replied, shoving a cartridge into the Mann- 
licher. 

" Middu, middu /" (No, no !) they entreated, promptly 
laying down their weapons. 

26 






PURCHASING SUPPLIES 

I purchased from these men about thirty pounds of 
tsamba and eight of butter, and got one of them to carry 
this to my camp, while I, without further trouble, recov- 
ered my yaks and drove them back to where Chanden 
Sing and Mansing were busy lighting a fire to make 
some tea. 
II. — c 




SADDLE-BAGS 



I 



CHAPTER LVII 

TRAVELLING TIBETANS — OVER A HIGH PASS — A FRIENDLY MEETING — A 
PROFFERED BANQUET — ASCENT TO 20,000 FEET — LOOKING FOR THE 
GUNKYO LAKE— SURPRISED BY A PHANTOM ARMY 

Towards noon, when our things had got almost dry in 
the warm sun, the sky became overclouded, and it aeain 
began to rain heavily. I was rather doubtful as to wheth- 
er I should go over a pass some miles off to 93 (b. m.), 
or should follow the course of the river and skirt the foot 
of the mountains. We saw a large number of Tibetans 
travelling in the opposite direction to ours, and they all 
seemed much terrified when we approached them. We 
obtained from them a few more pounds of food, but they 
refused to sell us any sheep, of which they had thousands. 
I decided to attempt the first-mentioned route, and, mak- 
ing our way first over a continuation of the flat plateau, 
then over undulating ground, we came to two lakelets at 
the foot of the pass in question. The ascent was com- 
paratively gentle, over snow, and we followed the river de- 
scending from the top. About half-way up on looking 
back we saw eight soldiers galloping towards us. We 
waited for them, and as soon as they came up to us they 
went through the usual servile salutations, depositing their 
arms on the ground to show that they had no intention of 
fighting. A long friendly palaver followed, the Tibetans 
professing their friendship for us and their willingness to 
help us to get on in any way in their power. This was 
rather too good to be'true, and I suspected treachery, all 

28 



ASCENT TO 20,000 FEET 

the more so when they pressed and entreated us to go 
back to their tents, where they wished us to remain as 
their highly honored guests, and where we should have 
all the luxuries that human mind can conceive showered 
upon us. On further specification, these were found to 
consist of presents of chura, cheese, butter, yak milk, and 
tsamba, and they said they would sell us ponies if we re- 
quired them. The description was too glowing ; so, tak- 
:"ng all things into consideration, and allowing for the in- 
accuracy of speech of my interlocutors, as well as of 
Tibetans in general, I thanked them from the bottom 
of my heart and answered that I preferred to continue 
my way and bear my present sufferings. 

They perceived that I was not easy to catch, and, if any- 
thing, they respected me the more for it. In fact, they 
could not disguise their amazement at my having got so 
far with only two men. When I had given my visitors 
some little present, we parted at last in a very friendly 
manner. 

We climbed up to the pass (18,480 feet), and before us 
on the other side found a large stretch of flat land, some 
two thousand feet lower. I could see a lake, which I 
took to be the Gunkyo. Nevertheless, to make certain 
of it, I left my men and yaks in the pass and went to 
reconnoitre from a peak 19,000 feet high, northeast of us. 
There was much snow, and the ascent was difficult and 
tedious. When I got to the top another higher peak 
barred the view in front of me, so descending first and 
then ascending again, I climbed this second summit, 
finally reaching an elevation of 20,000 feet, and obtain- 
ing a good bird's - eye view of the country all round. 
There was a long snowy range to the north, and direct- 
ly under it, what I imagined to be a stretch of water, 
judging from the mist and clouds forming above it 

29 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

and from the grass on the lower portion of the moun- 
tains. 

A hill range stood in my way, just high enough to con- 
ceal the lake behind it. I rejoined my men and we con- 
tinued our march down the other side of the pass, sinking 
in deep, soft snow. We pitched our tent at a spot about 
five hundred feet higher than the plain below us, in a 



* 



PHANTOM-LIKE VISITORS 



gorge formed by the two mountain sides coming close to- 
gether. Notwithstanding that I was now quite accus- 
tomed to great altitudes, the ascent to 20,000 feet had 
caused a certain exhaustion, and I should have been glad 
of a good night's rest. 

Mansing and Chanden Sing, having eaten some food, 
slept soundly, but I felt very depressed. I had a peculiar 
sense of unrest and of some evil coming to us during the 
night. 

30 



SURPRISED BY A PHANTOM ARMY 

We were all three under our little tent, when I began to 
fancy there was some one outside. I do not know why 
the thought entered my head, for I heard no noise, but 
all the same I felt I must see and satisfy my curiosity. I 
peeped out of the tent with my rifle in hand, and saw a 
number of black figures cautiously crawling towards us. 
In a moment I was outside on my bare feet, running tow 
ards them and shouting at the top of my voice : " Pur 
tedan tedang!" (Look out, look out !) which caused c. 
stampede among our ghost-like visitors. There w r ere> 
apparently, numbers of them hidden behind rocks, for 
when the panic seized them the number of runaways was 
double or even treble that of the phantoms I had at first 
seen approaching. At one moment there seemed to be 
black ghosts springing out from everywhere, only, more 
solid than ghosts, they made a dreadful noise with their 
heavy boots as they ran in confusion down the steep de- 
scent and through the gorge. They turned sharply round 
the hill at the bottom and disappeared. 

When I crawled inside the tent again Chanden Sing 
and Mansing, wrapped head and all in their blankets, 
were still snoring ! 



CHAPTER LVIII 

A SLEEPLESS NIGHT— WATCHING OUR ENEMY— A PICTURESQUE SIGHT 
— A MESSENGER — SOLDIERS FROM LHASSA — TAKEN FOR A KASH- 
MEREE— THE GUNKYO LAKE 

Naturally I passed a sleepless night after that, fear- 
ing that the unwelcome visitors might return. We 
speculated much as to how the Tibetans had found us, 
and we could not help surmising that our friends of the 
previous afternoon must have put them on our track. How- 
ever, such w r as the inconceivable cowardice shown on 
every occasion by the Tibetans, that we got to attach no 
importance to these incidents, and not only did they not 
inspire us with fear, but they even ceased to excite or dis- 
turb us much. A 

We went on as usual, descending to the plain, and 
when we got half-way across it, I scoured the hills all 
round with my telescope to see if I could discern traces 
of our pusillanimous foe. 

" There they are," cried Chanden Sing, who had the 
most wonderful eyesight of any man I have known, as he 
pointed at the summit of a hill where, among the rocks, 
several heads could be seen peeping. We went on with- 
out taking further notice of them, and then they came 
out of their hiding-place, and we saw them descending 
the hill in a long line, leading their ponies. On reaching 
the plain they mounted their steeds and came full gallop 
towards us. They were quite a picturesque sight in their 
dark-red coats or brown and yellow skin robes and their 
vari-colored caps. Some wore bright-red coats with gold 

32 



X 
p: 

C 

c 

c 

r 
> 




A MESSENGER 

braiding, and Chinese caps. These were officers. The 
soldiers' matchlocks, to the rests of which red and white 
flags were attached, gave a touch of color to the other- 
wise dreary scenery of barren hills and snow, and the 
tinkling of the horse-bells enlivened the monotony of 
these silent, inhospitable regions. They dismounted 
some three hundred yards from us, and one old man, 
throwing aside his matchlock and sword in a theatrical 
fashion, walked unsteadily towards us. We received him 
kindly, and he afforded us great amusement, for in his 
way he was a strange character. 

" I am only a messenger," he hastened to state, " and 
therefore do not pour your anger upon me if I speak to 
you. I only convey the words of my officers, who do not 
dare to come for fear of being injured. News has been 
received at Lhassa, from whence we have come, that a 
Plenki (an Englishman) with many men is in Tibet, and 
can be found nowhere. We have been sent to capture 
him. Are you one of his advance guard ?" 

" No," I replied, dryly. " I suppose that you have taken 
several months to come from Lhassa." 

" Oh no ! Our ponies are good," he answered, " and 
we have come quickly." 

" Chik, ni, sum, shi, nga, do, diu, ghieh, gu, chu, chuck 
chick, chuck ni" the Tibetan counted, up to twelve, frown- 
ing and keeping his head inclined towards the right as if 
to collect his thoughts, at the same time holding up his 
hand, with the thumb folded against the palm, and turn- 
ing down a finger as he called each number. The thumbs 
are never used in counting. " Lum chttck ni niman /" 
(Twelve days !) said he, " have we been on the road, and 
we have orders not to return till we have captured the 
Plenki. And you," asked he, inquisitively, " how long 
have you taken to come from Ladak ?" 

33 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

He said that he could see by my face that I was a 
Kashmeree, I being probably so tanned and dirty that it 
was hard to distinguish me from a native. The old man 
cross-examined me to find out whether I was a pundit sent 
by the Indian Government to survey the country, and 
asked me why I had discarded my native clothes for 






...■ ■■<.■■,■ •'.. . . 




mtiM 



" I AM ONLY A MESSENGER 



Plenki (European) ones. He over and over again in- 
quired whether I was not one of the Plenki s party. 

" Reran ga naddo ung?" (Where are you going?) he 
queried. 

"Nhgarang ne koroun Lama jehlhuong" (I am a pil- 
grim going to visit monasteries), I replied. 

" Keran mi japodu" (You are a good man.) 

He offered to show me the way to the Gunkyo Lake, 
and was so pressing that I accepted. However, when I 
saw the 200 soldiers mount and follow us, I remonstrated 

34 



THE GUNKYO LAKE 

with him, saying that if we were to be friends we did not 
need an army to escort us. 

" If you are our friend, you can come alone, and we 
will not injure you," I gave him to understand ; " but if 
you are our enemy we will fight you and your army here 
at once, and we will save you the trouble of coming on." 

The Tibetan, confused and hesitating, went to confabu- 
late with his men, and returned some time after with 
eight of them, while the bulk of his force galloped away 
in the opposite direction. 

We went across the plain to 35 5 (b. m.), until we came 
to a hill range, which we crossed over a pass 17450 feet 
high. Then, altering our course to 56° 30', we descend- 
ed and ascended several hills, and at last found ourselves 
in the grassy sheltered valley of the large Gunkyo Lake, 
extending from southeast to northwest. With a tempera- 
ture of 68° (Fahr.), the water in hypsometrical apparatus 
boiled at 183 3V at 8.30 in the evening. The lake was 
of extraordinary beauty, with the high snowy Gangri 
mountains rising almost sheer from its waters, and on the 
southern side lofty hills forming a background wild and 
picturesque, but barren and desolate beyond all words. 
At the other end of the lake, to the northwest, were lower 
mountains skirting the water. 

We encamped at 16,455 feet, and the soldiers pitched 
their tent some fifty yards away. 



CHAPTER LIX 

IN PLEASANT COMPANY — UNPOPULARITY OF THE LAMAS— SOLDIERS — 
TOWARDS THE MAIUM PASS— GRASS— THREATS— PUZZLED TIBETANS 
— THE MAIUM PASS— OBOS 

During the evening the Tibetans came over to my 
camp and made themselves useful. They helped us to get 
fuel, and brewed tea for me in Tibetan fashion. They 
seemed decent fellows, although sly if you like. They 
professed to hate the Lamas, the rulers of the country, to 
whom they took special pleasure in applying names hard- 
ly repeatable in these pages. According to them, the 
Lamas had all the money that came into the country, and 
no one but themselves was allowed to have any. They 
were not particular as to the means used to obtain their 
aim ; they were cruel and unjust. Every man in Tibet, 
they said, was a soldier in case of emergency, and every 
one a servant of the Lamas. The soldiers of the stand- 
ing army received a certain quantity of tsamba, bricks of 
tea and butter, and that was all, no pay being given in 
cash. Usually, however, they were given a pony to ride, 
and when on travelling duty they had a right to obtain 
relays of animals at post-stations and villages, where also 
they were entitled to claim supplies of food, saddles, or 
anything else they required, to last them as far as the 
next encampment. The weapons (sword and match- 
lock) generally belonged to the men themselves, and al- 
ways remained in the family ; but occasionally, and es- 
pecially in the larger towns, such as Lhassa and Shigatz, 

36 



TIBETAN SOLDIERS 



the Lamas provided them : gunpowder and bullets were 
invariably supplied by the authorities. The 
arms were manufactured mostly in Lhassa and 
Shigatz. Although the Tibetans boasted of 
great accuracy in shooting with their match- 
locks, which had wooden rests to allow the 
marksman to take a 
steady aim, it was never 
my pleasure to see even 
the champion shots in 
the country hit the 
mark. It is true that 
for sporting purposes, 
and for economy's sake, 
the Tibetan soldier 
hardly ever used lead 
bullets or shot, but pre- 
ferred to fill his barrel 
with pebbles, which 
were scarcely calculated 
to improve the bore of 
the weapon. Further- 
more, gunpowder was 
so scarce that it was 
but very seldom they 
had a chance of practis- 
ing. 

At sunrise the view 
of Gunkyo was magnifi- 
cent, with the snow- 
covered mountains 
tinted o;old and red, and 
reflected in their minu- 
test details in the still waters of the lake. We loaded our 

37 




IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

yaks, the Tibetans giving us a helping hand, and started 
towards the Maium Pass, following a general course of 109 
up the river, which throws itself into the Gunkyo Lake. 

The valley was very narrow, and ran in continuous 
zigzags; but although the altitude was great, there was 
abundance of grass, and the green was quite refreshing to 
the eyes, tired as we were of snow and reddish, barren 
mountains and desert-like stretches of land. We came to 
a basin where, on the opposite bank of the stream, was a 
large Tibetan camping-ground with a high wall of stones. 
Behind it I could see smoke rising, which made me sus- 
pect that there were people concealed there. 

Our Tibetan friends asked what we were going to do, 
and begged me to stop there to talk and drink tea. I 
said I had had quite enough of both, and would proceed. 

" If you go on we will kill you," said one of the sol- 
diers, getting into a temper, and taking advantage of our 
politeness towards him and his mates. 

" Nga samgi ganta indah" (If you please), I answered, 
with studied courtesy. 

" If you go another step we will cut off your head, or 
you will have to cut off ours," cried tw 7 o or three others, 
stretching their bare necks towards me. 

"Taptik middu" (I have not got a small knife), I re- 
plied, quite seriously, and with assumed disappointment, 
twirling my hand in the air in Tibetan fashion. 

The Tibetans did not know what to make of me, and 
when I moved towards the pass, on which hundreds of 
flying prayers flapped in the wind, after politely bidding 
them good-bye with tongue out, and waving both my 
hands, palms upwards, in front of my forehead in the 
most approved Tibetan style, they took off their caps and 
humbly saluted us by going down on their knees and 
putting their heads close to the ground. 

38 



OBOS 

We crossed the plain, and slowly wended our way up 
the pass. Near the top we came to a track, the highway 
from Ladak to Lhassa via Gartok, along the northern side 
of the Rakastal, Mansarowar, and Gunkyo Lakes. On 
the pass itself were planted several poles connected by 
means of ropes, from which flying prayers waved gayly 
in the breeze. Obos, or mounds of stones, had also been 
erected here. The slabs were usually white, and bore in 
many instances the inscription " Omne mani padme htm? 
Yak skulls and horns, as well as those of goats and sheep, 
were laid by the side of these Obos, the same words being 
engraved on the bone, and stained red with the blood of 
the animal killed. 

These sacrifices are offered by Tibetans when crossing 
a high pass, especially if there is a Lama close at hand to 
commemorate the event. The meat of the animal killed 
is eaten by the people present, and, if the party is a large 
one, dancing and singing follow the feast. As I have 
already remarked, these Obos are found all over the 
country ; they indicate the points marking the passes' or 
summits of hills, and no Tibetan ever goes by one of 
them without depositing on it a white stone to appease 
the possible wrath of their God. 



CHAPTER LX 

THE MAIUM PASS — INTO THE YUTZANG PROVINCE— ITS CAPITAL— THE 
DOKTOL PROVINCE — ORDERS DISREGARDED — THE SOURCES OF THE 
BRAHMAPUTRA — CHANGE IN THE CLIMATE — THE VALLEY OF THE 
BRAHMAPUTRA — RUNNING RISKS 

The Maium Pass (17,500 feet), to which from where I 
started no white man had ever penetrated, is a great 
landmark in Hundes, for not only does one of the sources 
of the great Tsangpu, or Brahmaputra River, rise on its 
southeast slopes, but it also separates the immense prov- 
inces of Nari-Khorsum (extending west of the Maium 
Pass and comprising the mountainous and lacustrine 
region as far as Ladak) from the Yutzang, the central 
province of Tibet, stretching east of the pass along the 
valley of the Brahmaputra and having Lhassa for its capi- 
tal. The word Yu in Tibetan means " middle," and it 
is applied to this province, as it occupies the centre of 
Tibet. To the north of the Maium lies the Doktol 
province. 

I had taken a reconnoitring trip to another pass to the 
northeast of us, and had just returned to my men on the 
Maium Pass, when several of the Tibetan soldiers we had 
left behind rode up towards us. We waited for them, 
and their leader, pointing at the valley beyond the pass, 
cried : " That yonder is the Lhassa territory, and we for- 
bid you to enter it." 

I took no notice of his protest, and, driving before me 
the two yaks, I stepped into the most sacred of all the 
sacred provinces, " the ground of God." 

40 



ONE SOURCE OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA 

We descended quickly on the eastern side of the pass, 
while the soldiers, aghast, remained watching us from 
above, themselves a most picturesque sight as they stood 
among the Obos against the sky-line, with the sunlight 
shining on their jewelled swords and the gay red flags of 




SOURCE OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA 



their matchlocks, while over their heads strings of flying 
prayers waved in the wind. Having watched us for a lit- 
tle while, they disappeared. 

A little rivulet, hardly six inches wide, descended 
among stones in the centre of the valley we were follow- 
ing, and was soon swollen by other rivulets from melting 
snows on the mountains to either side. This was one 
source* of the great Brahmaputra, one of the largest 
rivers of the world. I must confess that I felt somewhat 
proud to be the first European who had ever reached 
these sources, and there was a certain childish delight in 

* I passed the other source on the return journey. 
41 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

standing over this sacred stream, which, of such immense 
width lower down, could here be spanned by a man stand- 
ing with legs slightly apart. We drank of its waters at 
the spot where it had its birth, and then, following a 
marked track to 125 (b. m.), we continued our descent on 
a gentle incline along a grassy valley. The change in 
the climate between the west and southeast sides of the 
Maium Pass was extraordinary. On the western side we 
had nothing but violent storms of hail, rain, and snow, the 
dampness in the air rendering the atmosphere cold even 
during the day. The soil was unusually marshy, and very 
little fuel or grass could be found. The moment the pass 
was crossed we were in a mild, pleasant climate, with a 
lovely deep-blue sky over us and plenty of grass for the 
yaks, as well as low shrubs for our fires ; so that, after all 
our sufferings and privations, we felt that we had indeed 
entered the land of God. Notwithstanding that I expect- 
ed great trouble sooner or later, I was not at all sorry 
I had disobeyed the soldiers' orders and had marched 
straight into the forbidden territory — it was a kind of 
wild satisfaction at doing that which is forbidden. 

The Brahmaputra received three small snow-fed tribu- 
taries descending rapidly from the steep mountains on 
either side of us ; and where the main stream turned 
sharply to 170°, a fourth and important tributary, carry- 
ing a very large volume of water, came down to it through 
a gorge from 20° (b. m.). 

We encamped near the junction of these rivers, on the 
right bank of the main stream, at an altitude of 16,620 
feet. From the Maium Pass a continuation of the Gan- 
gri chain of mountains runs first in a southeasterly 
direction, then due east, taking a line almost parallel to 
the higher southern range of the Himahlyas, and form- 
ing a vast plain intersected by the Brahmaputra. On the 

42 



DECIDING UPON A ROUTE 

southern side of the river can be seen minor hill ranges 
between the river course and the big range with its ma- 
jestic snowy peaks and beautiful glaciers. The northern 
range keeps an almost parallel line to the greater range 
southward ; and, though no peaks of very considerable 
elevations are to be found along it, yet it is of geographi- 
cal importance, as its southern slopes form the northern 
watershed of the holy river as far as Lhassa. 

The valley enclosed between these two parallel ranges 
is the most thickly populated valley in Tibet. Grass is 
abundant, and fuel easily obtainable, and therefore thou- 
sands of yaks, sheep, and goats can be seen grazing near 
the many Tibetan camps along the Brahmaputra and its 
principal tributaries. The trade route taken by the cara- 
vans from Ladak to Lhassa follows this valley ; and, as I 
.came to Tibet to see and study the Tibetans, I thought 
that, although I might run greater risks, I could in no 
part of the country accomplish my object better than by 
going along this thickly populated track, which, moreover, 
had never before been trodden by a European. 



CHAPTER LXI 

EXPECTING TROUBLE — ALONG THE BRAHMAPUTRA— A THUNDERSTORM 
— A DILEMMA — A DANGEROUS RIVER — SWAMPED — SAVED — NIGHT 
DISTURBERS — A NEW FRIEND 

We slept very little, as we expected the soldiers to at- 
tack us during the night to try and stop our progress, 
but all was quiet and nothing happened ; our yaks, how- 
ever, managed to get loose, and we had some difficulty in 
recovering them in the morning, for they had swum 
across the stream, and had gone about a mile from camp 
on the other side. 

The night had been very cold, the thermometer drop- 
ping as low as 32^°. We did not pitch our little tent, in 
case of emergencies, and we were tired and cold after the 
long march of the previous day. There was a south- 
westerly breeze blowing, and I found it hard to have to 
cross the river, chase the yaks and bring them back to 
camp. Then, exhausted as we were, we had in addition 
to go through the daily routine of loading them. We 
followed the right bank of the stream to bearings 170° 
(m.), then to 142° 30' (b. m.), where it wound in and out 
between barren hills, subsequently flowing through a 
grassy valley three - quarters of a mile wide and a mile 
and a half long. It then went through a narrow passage 
to 1 7 30' (b. m.) and turned to 103° and farther to 142° 
through an undulating grassy valley two miles wide, in 
crossing which we were caught in a terrific thunderstorm, 
with hail and rain. This was indeed an annoying experi- 

44 






AN ANNOYING EXPERIENCE 

ence, for we were now before a very large tributary of the 
Brahmaputra, and the stream was so swollen, rapid, and 
deep that I was much puzzled as to how to take my men 
across: they could not swim, and the water was so cold 
that a dip in it would give any one a severe shock. How- 
ever, there was no time to be lost, for the river was visi- 
bly rising, and, as the storm was getting worse, difficulties 
would only increase every moment. We took off even 
stitch of clothing and fastened our garments, with our 
rifles, etc., on the pack-saddles of the yaks, which we sent 
into the water. Yaks are good swimmers, and though 
the current carried them over a hundred yards down 
stream, we saw them with satisfaction scramble out of the 
water on to the opposite bank. Notwithstanding the 
faith that Chanden Sing and Mansing had in my swim- 
ming, they really thought that their last hour had come 
when I took each by the hand and asked them to follow 
me into the stream. Hardly had we gone twelve yards 
when the inevitable took place. We were all three swept 
away, and Chanden Sing and Mansing in their panic 
clung tight to my arms and dragged me under water. 
Though I swam my hardest with my legs, we continually 
came to the surface and then sank again, owing to the 
dead weight of my helpless mates. But at last, after 2 
desperate struggle, the current washed us on to the oppo- 
site side, where we found our feet, and were soon able to 
scramble out of the treacherous river. We were some 
two hundred yards down stream from the spot at which 
we had entered the river, and such was the quantity of 
muddy water we had swallowed that we all three became 
sick. This left us much exhausted, and, as the storm 
showed no signs of abating, we encamped (16,320 feet) 
there and then on the left bank of the stream. Though 
we sadly needed some warm food, there was, of course, 

45 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

no possibility of lighting a fire. A piece of chocolate 
was all I had that night, and my men preferred to eat 
nothing rather than break their caste by eating my food. 
We were asleep under our little tent, the hour being 
about eleven, when there was a noise outside as of voices 



.. ..„._. .. ... .. . ...... ._...,. ...... . . 






- 

■■%■<•■ 





A TIBETAN DOG 



and people stumbling against stones. I was out in a mo- 
ment with my rifle, and shouted the usual " Palado /" (Go 
away!), in answer to which, though I could see nothing 
owing to the darkness, I heard several stones flung from 
slings whizzing past me. One of these hit the tent, and 
a dog barked furiously. I fired a shot in the air, which 
had the good effect of producing a hasty retreat of our 

46 



A FOUR-FOOTED FRIEND 

enemies, whoever they were. The dog, however, would 
not go. He remained outside barking all night, and it 
was only in the morning, when I gave him some food and 
caressed him in Tibetan fashion, with the usual words of 
endearment, " Chochu^ ChochuT that our four-footed foe 



SMALL MANI WALL 



became friendly, rubbing himself against my legs as if he 
had known me all his life, and taking a particular fancy to 
Mansing, by whose side he lay down. From that day he 
never left our camp, and followed us everywhere, until 
harder times came upon us. 



CHAPTER LXII 

LEAVING THE COURSE OF THE RIVER — A PASS— AN ARID PLAIN — MORE 
VANISHING SOLDIERS — ANOTHER RIVER — A MAN/ WALL — MIRAGE? — 
A LARGE TIBETAN ENCAMPMENT — THE CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS NORTH 
OF US 

The river was turning too much towards the south, so 
I decided to abandon it and strike across country, es- 
pecially as there were faint signs of a track leading over 
a pass to no° (b. m.) from camp. I followed this track, 
and along it I distinguished marks of hundreds of ponies' 
hoofs, now almost entirely washed away. This was evi- 
dently the way taken by the soldiers we had encountered 
on the other side of the Mai urn Pass. 

Having risen over the pass 17,750 feet, we saw before 
us an extensive valley with barren hills scattered over it. 
To the south we observed a large plain some ten miles 
wide, with snowy peaks rising on the farther side. In 
front was a hill projecting into the plain, on which stood 
a mani wall, and this latter discovery made me feel quite 
confident that I was on the high-road to Lhassa. About 
eight miles off to the north-northwest were high snowy 
peaks, and as we went farther we found a lofty mountain 
range, with still higher peaks, three miles behind it. We 
had travelled half-way across the waterless plain, when 
we noticed a number of soldiers' heads and matchlocks 
popping in and out from behind a distant hill. After a 
while they came out in numbers to observe our move- 
ments, then retired again behind the hill. We proceed- 
ed, but when we were still half a mile from them they 

48 



A MIRAGE— PERHAPS 

abandoned their hiding-place and galloped away before 
us, raising clouds of dust. From a hill 16,200 feet, over 
which the track crossed, we perceived a group of very 
high snowy peaks about eight miles distant. Between 
them and us stood a range of hills cut by a valley, along 
which flowed a river carrying a large volume of water. 
This we followed to 126° (b. m.), and, having found a suit- 



1 



AN EFFECT OF MIRAGE 



able fording-place, we crossed over at a spot where the 
stream was twenty - five yards across, and the water 
reached up to our waists. We found here another mani 
wall with large inscriptions on stones, and, as the wind was 
very high and cutting, we made use of it to shelter our- 
selves. Within the angle comprised between bearings 240° 
and 120° (b. m.) we could observe a very high snowy moun- 
tain range in the distance (the great Himahlyan chain), and 
lower hill ranges even as near as three miles from camp. 

49 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

The river we had just crossed flowed into the Brahmaputra, 
and we were now at an elevation of 15,700 feet. We saw 
plainly at sunset a number of black tents before us at 
bearings 120°; we calculated them to be two miles distant. 
We counted about sixty, as well as hundreds of black 
yaks. 

At sunrise the next morning, much to our surprise, 
they had all vanished; nor, on marching in the direction 
where we had seen them the previous night, were we able 
to find traces of them. It seemed as if it must have been 
mirage. Eventually, however, some fourteen miles away, 
across a grassy plain bounded to the northeast by the 
range extending from northwest to southeast, and with 
lofty snowy peaks at 72° some five miles off, we came 
upon a very large Tibetan encampment of over eighty 
black tents at an altitude of 15,650 feet. They were 
pitched on the banks of another tributary of the Brah- 
maputra, which, after describing a great curve in the 
plain, passed west of the encampment. Five miles off, 
in the arc of circle described from 310° to 70° (b. m.), stood 
the chain of mountains which I had observed all along; 
but here the elevations of its peaks became gradually low- 
er and lower, so much so that the name of " hill range" 
would be more appropriate to it than that of " mountain 
chain." Behind it, however, towered loftier peaks again 
with their snowy caps. 



CHAPTER LXIII 

A COMMOTION — AN INVITATION DECLINED — THE TENTS— DELICACIES— 

THE CHOKSEH 

We wanted food, and so made boldly for the encamp- 
ment. Our approach caused a great commotion, and 
yaks and sheep were hastily driven away before us, while 
men and women rushed in and out of their tents, appar- 
ently in a state of much excitement. Eight or ten men re- 
luctantly came forward and entreated us to go inside a large 
tent. They said they wished to speak to us, and offered 
us tea. I would not accept their invitation, distrusting 
them, but went on across the encampment, halting some 
three hundred yards beyond it. Chanden Sing and I 
proceeded afterwards on a round of calls at all the tents, 
trying to purchase food and also to show that, if we had 
declined to enter a particular tent, it was not on account 
of fear, but because we did not want to be caught in a 
trap. Our visit to the different golingchos or gurr (tents) 
was interesting enough. The tents themselves were very 
cleverly constructed, and admirably adapted to the country 
in which they were used; and the various articles of furni- 
ture inside attracted my curiosity. The tents, black in 
color, were woven of yaks' hair, the natural greasiness of 
which made them quite waterproof. They consisted of 
two separate pieces of this thick material, supported by 
two poles at each end, and there was an oblong aperture 
above in the upper part of the tent, through which the 
smoke could escape. The base of the larger tents was 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

hexagonal in shape: the roof, generally at a height of six 
or seven feet above the ground, was kept very tightly 
stretched by means of long ropes passing over high poles 
and pegged to the ground. Wooden and iron pegs were 
used for this purpose, and many were required to keep 
the tent close to the ground all round, so as to protect its 
inmates from the cutting winds of the great plateau. 




' %1l " 



BLACK TENT 



Long poles, as a rule numbering four, with white flying 
prayers, could be seen outside each tent, or one to each 
point of the compass, the east being taken for a starting- 
point. Around the interior of the larger tents there 
was a mud wall from two to three feet high, for the pur- 
pose of further protection against wind, rain, and snow. 
These walls were sometimes constructed of dried dung, 
which, as time went on, was used for fuel. There were 
two apertures, one at either end of the tent; that facing 
the wind being always kept closed by means of loops and 
wooden bolts. 

52 



H 
X 
W 

H 
W 

2 
3 



H 
H 




L 



:, 



IN THE TENTS OF THE TIBETAN 



The Tibetan is a born nomad, and shifts his dwelling 
with the seasons, or w r herever he can find pasture for his 
yaks and sheep ; but, though he has no fixed abode, he 
knows how to make himself comfortable, and he carries 
with him all that he requires. Thus, for instance, in the 
centre of his tent, he begins by making himself a go ling, 
or fireplace of mud and stone, some three 
feet high and four or five long, by one and 
a half wide, with two, three, or more side 
ventilators and draught-holes. By this ingen- 
ious contrivance he manages to increase the 
combustion of the dried dung, the most try- 
ing fuel from which to get a flame. On the 
top of this stove a suitable place is made to 
fit the several raksangs, or large brass pots 
and bowls, in which the brick tea, having 
being duly pounded in a stone or wooden 
mortar, is boiled and stirred with a long 
brass spoon. A portable iron stand is gen- 
erally to be seen somewhere in the tent, upon 
which the hot vessels are placed as they are 
removed from the fire. Close to these is 
the toxzum or dongbo, a cylindrical wooden 
churn, w r ith a lid through which a piston 
passes. This is used for mixing the tea w T ith 
butter and salt, in the way I have described 
as also adopted by the Jopgas. 

The wooden cups or bowls used by the Tibetans are 
called puku, fruh, or cariel, and in them tsamba is also 
eaten after tea has been poured on it, and the mixture 
worked into a paste by means of more or less dirty fin- 
gers. Often extra lumps of butter are mixed with this 
paste, and even bits of chura (cheese). The richer people 
(officials) indulge in flour and rice, which they import from 

53 



A DONGBO, OR 
TEA CHURN 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

India and China, and in kassur, or dried fruit (namely, 
dates and apricots) of inferior quality. The rice is boiled 
into a kind of soup called the tukpa, a great luxury only 
indulged in on grand occasions, when such other cher- 
ished delicacies as gimakara (sugar) and shelkara (lump 
white sugar) are also eaten. The Tibetans are very fond 
of meat, though few can afford such an extravagance. 
Wild game, yak, and sheep are considered excellent food, 
and the meat and bone cut in pieces are boiled in a cal- 





TSAMGO SMALL TSAMBA BAG, CARRIED ON 

THE PERSON BY TIBETANS 



dron with lavish quantities of salt and pepper. The sev- 
eral people in a tent dip their hands into the pot, and, 
having picked up suitable pieces, tug at them with their 
teeth and fingers, grinding even the bone, meat eaten 
without bone being supposed to be difficult to digest. 

The Tibetan tents are usually furnished with a few 
tildih (rough sitting-mats) round the fireplace, and near 
the entrance of the tent stands a dahlo, or basket, in which 
the dung is stored as collected. These dahlos, used in 
couples, are very convenient for tying to pack-saddles, 
for which purpose they are spe ially designed. Along 
the walls of the tent are the tsd'ngo or bags of tsarnba, 

54 



GILT GODS AND MATCHLOCKS 

and the dongmo, or butter - pots, and among masses of 
sheepskins and blankets be seen the little wooden chests 
in which the store of butter is kept under lock and key. 
The first thing that strikes the eye on entering a Tibe- 
tan tent is the choksah, or table, upon which are lights and 
brass bowls containing offerings to the Chogan, the gilt 
god to whom the occupiers of the gurr (tent) address 
their morning and evening prayers. Prayer-wheels and 
strings of beads are plentiful, and lashed upright to the 
poles are the long matchlocks belonging to the men, their 
tall props projecting well out of the aperture in the roof 
of the tent. Spears are kept in a similar manner, but the 
swords and smaller knives are carried about the person 
all day, and laid on the ground by the side of their own- 
ers at night. 

II.— E 



CHAPTER LXIV 

REFUSAL TO SELL FOOD — WOMEN — THEIR LOOKS AND CHARACTERIS- 
TICS—THE TCHUKTI—K LHASSA LADY 

The inhabitants of this encampment were polite and 
talkative. Notwithstanding their refusal to sell us food 
on the plea that they had none even for themselves, their 
friendliness was so much beyond my expectation that I 
at first feared treachery. However, treachery or not, I 
thought that while I was there I had better see and learn 
as much as I could. Women and men formed a ring 
round us, and the fair sex seemed less shy than the 
stronger in answering questions. I was particularly 
struck, not only in this encampment, but in all the others, 
by the small number of women to be seen in Tibet. 
This is not because they are kept in seclusion ; on the 
contrary, the ladies of the Forbidden Land seem to have 
it all their own way. They are actually in an enormous 
minority, the proportion being, at a rough guess, backed 
by the wise words of a friendly Lama, from fifteen to 
twenty males to each female in the population ; never- 
theless, the fair sex in Hundes manages to rule the male 
majority, playing thereby constantly into the hands of the 
Lamas. 

The Tibetan female, whether she be a lady, a shep- 
herdess, or a brigandess, cannot be said to be prepossess- 
ing. In fact, it was not my luck to see a single good- 
looking woman in the country, although I naturally saw 
women who were less ugly than others. Anyhow, with 

56 



cd 
w 

- 

> 

o 
w 

> 
C 

n 

r 
d 

w 

2 




THE TIBETAN WOMAN 

the accumulated filth that from birth is undisturbed by 
soap, scrubbing, or bathing ; with nose, cheeks, and fore- 
head smeared with black ointment to prevent the skin 
cracking in the wind ; and with the unpleasant odor that 
emanates from never-changed clothes, the Tibetan woman 




TIBETAN HAIR-BRUSHES AND FLINT-AND-STEEL POUCH 



is, at her best, repulsive to European taste. After one 
has overcome one's first disgust, she yet has, at a distance, 
a certain charm of her own. She walks well, for she is 
accustomed to carry heavy weights on her head; and her 
skull would be well-set on her shoulders w r ere it not that 
the neck is usually too short and thick to be graceful. 

57 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Her body and limbs possess great muscular strength and 
are well developed, but generally lack stability, and her 
breasts are flabby and pendent— facts due, no doubt, to 
sexual abuse. She is generally of heavy frame, and rather 
inclined to stoutness. Her hands and feet show power 
and rude strength, but no dexterity or suppleness is no- 
ticeable in her fingers, and she has therefore no ability 
for very fine or delicate work. 

The Tibetan woman is, nevertheless, far superior to 
the Tibetan man. She possesses a better heart, more 
pluck, and a finer character than he does. Time after 
time, when the males, timid beyond all conception, ran 
away at our approach, the women remained in charge of 
the tents, and, although by no means cool or collected, 
they very rarely failed to meet us without some show of 
dignity. 

On the present occasion, when all were friendly, the 
women seemed much less shy than the men, and con- 
versed freely and incessantly. They even prevailed upon 
their masters to sell us a little tsamba and butter. 

Tibetan women wear trousers and boots like the men, 
and over them they have a long gown, either yellow or 
blue, reaching down to their feet. Their head-dress is 
curious, the hair being carefully parted in the middle, 
and plastered with melted butter over the scalp as far 
down as the ears; then it is plaited all round in innu- 
merable little tresses, to which is fastened the Tchukti, 
three strips of heavy red-and-blue cloth joined together 
by cross -bands ornamented with coral and malachite 
beads, silver coins, and bells. The Tchukti reaches from 
the shoulders down to the heels. 

They seemed proud of this ornamentation, and dis- 
played much coquetry in attracting our notice to it. 
Wealthier women in Tibet have quite a small fortune 

58 



r 
> 



> 
> 




30 



COSTUMES OF TIBETAN WOMEN 




I Hffi'l 




THE TCHUKTI 



hanging down their backs, for all the money or valuables 
earned or saved are sewn on to the Tchukti. To the 
lower end of the Tchukti one, two, or three rows of small 
brass or silver bells are attached, and therefore the ap- 
proach of the Tibetan dames is announced by the tink- 

59 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

ling of their bells, a quaint custom, the origin of which 
they could not explain to me, beyond saying that it was 
pretty and that they liked it. 

The illustration that I o-ive here of a travelling Tibe- 
tan lady from Lhassa was taken at Tucker. She wore 
her hair, of abnormal length and beauty, in one huge 
tress, and round her head, like an aureole, w 7 as a circular 
wooden ornament, on the outer part of which were fast- 
ened beads of coral, glass, and malachite. The arrange- 
ment was so heavy that, though it fitted the head well, 
it had to be supported by means of strings tied to the 
hair and others passed over the head. By the side of her 
head, and hanging by the ears and hair, were a pair of 
huge silver ear-rings inlaid with malachite, and round her 
neck three long strings of beads with silver brooches. 

Considerable modifications necessarily occurred in 
these garments and ornaments, according to the locality 
and the wearer's condition in life, but the general lines 
of their clothing were practically everywhere the same. 
Often a loose silver chain belt was worn considerably 
below the waist, and rings and bracelets were common 
everywhere. 




MONEY-BAGS 



CHAPTER LXV 

POLYANDRY — MARRIAGE CEREMONIES — JEALOUSY— DIVORCE — IDENTIFI- 
CATION OF CHILDREN— COURTSHIP— ILLEGITIMACY — ADULTERY 

That the Tibetans legally recognize polyandry and 
polygamy is well known. Very little, however, has hith- 
erto transpired as to the actual form of these marital cus- 
toms, so that the details which follow, startling as they 
may seem w 7 hen regarded from a Western stand-point, will 
be found not without interest. 

First of all, I may say that there is not such a thing 
known in Tibet as a standard of morality among unmar- 
ried women of the middle classes ; and, therefore, from a 
Tibetan point of view, it is not easy to find an immoral 
woman. Notwithstanding this apparently irregular state 
of affairs, the women's behavior is better than might be 
expected. Like the Shoka girls, they possess a wonder- 
ful frankness and simplicity of manner, with a certain re- 
serve which has its allurements ; for the Tibetan swain, 
often a young man, being attracted by the charms of a 
damsel, finds that his flirtation with her has become an 
accepted engagement almost before it has begun, and is 
compelled, in accordance with custom, to go, accompanied 
by his father and mother, to the tent of the lady of his 
heart There he is received by her relations, who have 
been previously notified of the intended call, and are 
found seated on rugs and mats awaiting the arrival of 
their guests. 

After the usual courtesies and salutations, the young 

61 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



man's father asks, on behalf of his son, for the young 
lady's hand ; and, if the answer is favorable, the suitor 
places a square lump of yak murr (butter) on his be- 



. 




WOMAN WHOSE FACE IS SMEARED WITH BLACK OINTMENT 

trothed's forehead. She does the same for him, and the 
marriage ceremony is then considered over, the buttered 
couple being man and wife. 

If there is a temple close by, Katas, food, and money 
are laid before the images of god and saints, and the 
parties walk round the inside of the temple. Should there 

62 



MARRIAGES 

be no temple at hand, the husband and wife make the cir- 
cuit of the nearest hill, or, in default of anything else, the 
tent itself, always moving from left to right. This cere- 
mony is repeated with prayers and sacrifices every day 
for a fortnight, during which time libations of wine and 
general feasting continue, and at the expiration of which 
the husband conveys his better half to his tent. 

The law of Tibet, though hardly ever obeyed, has strict 
clauses regulating the conduct of married men in their 
sexual relations. So long as the sun is above the horizon, 
no intercourse is permitted; and during certain periods 
and seasons of the year, such as the height of summer and 
the depth of winter, intercourse is also prohibited. 

A Tibetan girl on marrying does not enter into a nup- 
tial tie with an individual but with all his family, in the 
following somewhat complicated manner. If an eldest 
son marries an eldest sister, all the sisters of the bride be- 
come his wives. Should he, however, begin by marrying 
the second sister, then only the sisters from the second 
down will be his property. If the third, all from the third, 
and so on. At the same time, when the bridegroom has 
brothers, they are all regarded as their brother's wife's 
husbands, and they one and all cohabit with her, as well 
as with her sisters if she has any. 

The system is not simple, and certainly not very edify- 
ing, and were it not for the odd savoir faire of the Tib- 
etan woman, it would lead to endless jealousies and un- 
pleasantness: owing, however, largely, no doubt, to the 
absolute lack of honor or decency in Tibetan males and 
females, the arrangement seems to w T ork as satisfactorily 
as any other kind of marriage. 

I asked what would happen in the case of a man 
marrying a second sister, and so acquiring marital rights 
over all her younger sisters, if another man came and mar- 

63 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

ried her eldest sister. Would all the brides of the first 
man become the brides of the second? No, they would 
not; and the second man would have to be satisfied with 
only one wife. However, if the second sister were left a 
widow, and her husband had no brothers, then she would 




TIBETAN WOMAN 



become the property of her eldest sister's husband, and 
with her all the other sisters. 

It must not be inferred from these strange matrimonial 
laws that jealousy is non-existent in Tibet among both 
men and women; trouble does occasionally arise in Tib- 
etan house or tent holds As, however, the Tibetan wom- 
an is clever, she generally contrives to arrange things in 
a manner conducive to peace. When her husband has 
several brothers, she despatches them on different errands 
in every direction, to look after yaks or sheep, or to trade. 

64 



DIVORCE DIFFICULT 

Only one remaining, he is for the time being her hus- 
band; then when another returns he has to leave his 
place and becomes a bachelor, and so on, till all the broth- 
ers have, during the year, had an equal period of marital 
life. 

Divorce is difficult in Tibet and involves endless com- 
plications. I inquired of a Tibetan lady what would she 
do in case her husband refused to live with her any 
longer. 

" 4 Why did you marry me?' I would say to him," she 
exclaimed. "' You found me good, beautiful, wise, clever, 
affectionate. Now prove that I am not all this!' " 

This modest speech, she thought, would be quite suf- 
ficient to bring any husband back to reason, but all the 
same a number of Tibetans find it convenient occasional- 
ly to desert their wives, eloping to some distant province 
or over the boundary. This procedure is particularly 
hard on the man's brothers, as they all remain the sole 
property of the abandoned bride. On the same principle, 
when a husband dies, the wife is inherited by his brothers. 

A very painful case came before the court of the Jong 
Pen at Taklakot The husband of a Tibetan lady had 
died, and she, being enamored of a handsome youth some 
twenty years younger than herself, married him.. Her 
husband's brother, however, came all the way from Lhassa 
after her and claimed her as his wife, though he had al- 
ready a better half and a large family. She would not 
hear of leaving the husband of her choice, and after end- 
less scenes between them the case was heard by the Jong 
Pen of Taklakot. The Tibetan law was against her, as, 
according to it, she decidedly belonged to her brother-in- 
law ; but money is stronger than any law in the land of 
the Lamas. 

" For the peace of all, you can arrange things this way," 

6 5 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

was the advice of the Jong Pen. " You can divide your 
property, money and goods, into three equal parts : one to 
go to the Lamas, one to your husband's brother, and one 
to be retained by yourself." 

The woman consented; but, much to her disgust, when 
two parts had been paid out and she was hoping for peace, 
a question was raised by the Jong Pen as to why she 
should even retain one-third of the fortune if she no 
longer were part of the deceased man's family? Thus 
orders were instantly given that she should be deprived 
of everything she possessed. 

However, the woman was shrewd enough to deceive 
the Jong Pen's officers, for one night, having bundled up 
her tent and her goods and chattels, she quietly stepped 
over the boundary and placed herself under British pro- 
tection. 

The mode of knowing and identifying children in 
Tibet is peculiar. It is not by the child's likeness to his 
parent, nor by other reasonable methods, that the off- 
spring is set down as belonging to one man more than to 
another, but this is the mode adopted. Supposing that 
one married man had two brothers and several children, 
the first child belongs to him, the second to his first 
brother, and the third to his second brother, while the 
fourth would be again the first man's child. 

The rules of courtship are not very strict in Tibet, yet 
intercourse with girls is looked upon as illegal, and in 
certain cases not only are the parties, if discovered, made 
to suffer shame, but certain fines are inflicted on the 
man, the most severe of all being that he must present 
the young lady with a dress and ornaments. In the case 
of " gentle-folks " the question is generally solved to the 
satisfaction of everybody by the man marrying the wom- 
an, and by his gracefully presenting " veils of friendship " 

66 



PUNISHMENTS FOR INFIDELITY 

to all her relations and friends, together with articles of 
food ; but if by mischance she should be placed in an 
awkward position before the eyes of the world, and the 
man will not hear of a matrimonial union, then efforts 




THE LADY IN QUESTION 

are made to prevent the birth of the child alive. If 
these are not successful, the mother must be maintained 
until after the child's birth. In such cases the illegiti- 
mate child remains the man's, and suffers forever the 
usual indignities of illegitimacy. 

II. — F 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



Sixteen in the case of women, and eighteen or nine- 
teen in that of men, is regarded as the marriageable age. 
Motherhood continues until a fairly advanced age, and I 
have seen a woman of forty with a baby only a few 
months old. But, as a rule, Tibetan women lose their 
freshness while still quite young; and no doubt their 
custom of polyandry not only contributes to destroy 
their looks but also is the chief cause that limits the 
population of Tibet. 

The Lamas are supposed to live in celibacy, but they 
do not always keep to their oath, tempted, no doubt, by 
the fact that they themselves invariably go unpunished. 
If, on the other hand, the culprit be a layman, he has to 
pay compensation according to his means to the husband, 
the amount being fixed by the parties concerned and 
their friends, or by the law if applied for. 

In ordinary cases of marital trespass, presents of cloth- 
ing, tsamba, chura, guram, kassur (dried fruit) and wine, 
accompanied by the never-lacking Kata, are sufficient to 
allay the injured husband's anger and to fully compen- 
sate him for any shame suffered. 

The only serious punishment inflicted is, however, in 
the case of the wife of a high official eloping with a man 
of low rank. Then the woman is subjected to flogging 
as a penalty for her infidelity, her husband is disgraced, 
and her lover, after being subjected to a painful surgical 
operation, is, if he survives, expelled from the town or 
encampment. 

High officials, and a few wealthy people who are not 
satisfied with one wife, are allowed by the law of the 
land to keep as many concubines as their means allow 
them. 



CHAPTER LXVI 

TIBETAN FUNERALS — DISPOSAL OF THEIR DEAD BY CREMATION — BY 
WATER— CANNIBALISM— STRANGE BELI EFS — REVOLTING BARBARITY 
— DRINKING HUMAN BLOOD — THE SAINTS OF TIBET 

Tibetan funerals are interesting, but they so closely 
resemble those of the Shokas, which I have described at 
length, that any detailed account of them would be a 
mere repetition of what I have already written. 

For the disposal of the dead body itself, however, the 
Tibetans have curious customs of their own. The most 
uncommon method, owing to the great scarcity of fuel, is 
that of cremation, which is only employed in the case of 
wealthy people or Lamas, and is effected in exactly the 
same fashion as among the Shokas. Another and more 
usual plan is to double up the body, sew it into skins, 
and let it be carried away by the current of a stream. 
But the commonest method of all is the revolting cere- 
mony which I now proceed to describe. 

The body of the deceased is borne to the top of a hill, 
where the Lamas pronounce certain incantations and 
prayers. Then the crowd, after walking seven times 
round the body, retire to a certain distance, to allow 
ravens and dogs to tear the corpse to pieces. It is con- 
sidered lucky for the departed and his family when birds 
alone devour the greater portion of the body ; dogs and 
wild animals come, say the Lamas, when the deceased 
has sinned during his life. Anyhow, the almost com- 
plete destruction of the corpse is anxiously watched, and, 

6 9 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

at an opportune moment, the Lamas and crowd, turning 
their praying - wheels, and muttering the everlasting 
" Omne mani padme kun" return to the body, round 
which seven more circuits are made, moving from left to 
right. # Then the relatives squat round. The Lamas 




A YOUNG LAMAS 



sit near the body, and with their daggers cut to pieces 
what remains of the flesh. The higher Lama eats the 
first morsel, then, muttering prayers, the other Lamas 
partake of it, after which all the relations and friends 
throw themselves on the now almost denuded skeleton, 
scraping off pieces of flesh, which they devour greedily ; 
and this repast of human flesh continues till the bones 
are dry and clean ! 

The idea of this ghastly ceremony is that the spirit of 



* In the case of a sect called Bombos, the circuits are made in the re- 
verse fashion, as also are their prayer-wheels turned from right to left, 

7° 



td 
W 

> 
O 

2 

r 
d 

w 
2 






- 



CANNIBALISM 






the departed, of whom you have swallowed a piece, will 
forever keep on friendly terms with you. When birds 
and dogs do not shrink from feeding, it is a sign that the 
body is healthy. 

Revolting beyond words is the further fact that, when 
a man has died of some pestilential disease, and, owing to 
the odor, the birds will not 
peck at the body, nor will 
the famished do^s g-o near 
it, then a large number of 
Lamas, having made the 
usual exorcisms, sit down by 
it, and do not get up again 
until they have devoured the 
whole of the rotten human 
flesh ! The relatives and 
friends are wiser and less 
brutal. They rightly believe 
that, if voracious animals will 
not partake of the meal 
proffered them, it is because 

the body is that of a sinner against whom God is angry. 
And who better than the Lamas could make peace be- 
tween God and him ? So let the Lamas eat it all. 

In the case of not finding sufficient Lamas to perform 
these rites, the body is either disposed of by throwing it 
into the water, or else, the relations having first partaken 
of a morsel of the flesh, it is bound to a rock to let ani- 
mals or time do the rest. 

The Lamas are said to have a great craving for human 

blood, which, they say, gives them strength, genius, and 

vigor. When sucking wounds that are not poisoned, they 

drink the blood, and also on certain occasions wounds are 

inflicted for the sake of sucking the blood. At other 
31 7I 



< 



A RED LAMA 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



times the cups cut from human skulls, found in all monas- 
teries, are filled with blood, and the Lamas in turn satisfy 

their thirst out of them. 

But enough of this. It is 
sickening to set it down, 
though my book would be in- 
complete if I had made no 
mention of the cannibalism of 
the Lamas. 
When a saintly Lama dies, or some old man much re- 




CUP MADE OF HUMAN SKULL 




CHOKTEN, OR TOMB OF A SAINT 



spected by the community, either parts of the flesh, or, if 
cremation has been applied, some of his ashes, are pre- 



THE SAINTS OF TIBET 

served and placed in a Chokten erected for the purpose ; 
and, judging by the number of these structures one finds 
all over Tibet, one feels inclined to think that half the 
population'of the country must have been saints, or else 
that the standard of saintliness in the sacred land of the 
Lamas is not prohibitively high. 



CHAPTER LXVII 

ANOTHER COMMOTION— TWO HUNDRED SOLDIERS— A STAMPEDE— EASY 
TRAVELLING — A LONG MANI WALL — MOSQUITOES 

Coming out of our tent in the morning, we noticed an 
unusual commotion among the Tibetans. A number of 
mounted men with matchlocks had arrived, and others 
similarly armed immediately went to join them from the 
tents. They seemed excited, and I kept my eye upon 
them while I was cooking my food. There were some 
two hundred in all, picturesquely garbed. They seemed 
to be good horsemen, and looked well as they rode in a 
line towards us. A little way off they stopped and dis- 
mounted, and the leaders came forward, one stalwart fel- 
low 7 in a fine sheepskin coat marching ahead of the rest. 
His attitude was very arrogant, and, dispensing with the 
usual salutations, he approached quite close, shaking his 
fist at me. 

" Kiu mahla lokhna nga rah luck tiba tangan " (I will 
give you a goat or a sheep if you w 7 ill go back), he said. 

"Kiu donna nga di tangon /" (And I give you this to 
make you go back !) was my quick answer, while I unex- 
pectedly administered him one straight from the shoul- 
der that sent him flat on his back and sprawling on the 
ground. 

The Tibetan army, which, with its usual prudence, was 
watching events from a respectful distance, beat a hasty 
retreat. The officer, though unhurt, scrambled away, 
screaming. The Tibetans had so far behaved with such 

74 



*■*■ 



X 



r 
> 

> 




COWARDICE OF THE TIBETANS 

contemptible cowardice that we could hardly congratulate 
ourselves on such easy successes. We began to feel that 
really we had no enemy at all before us, and very likely 
we became even careless. Anyhow, we ate our food and 
gave this affair but little thought. 

Our progress was now comparatively easy, along a 
broad grassy plain, and w T e proceeded without further dis- 



~ 





i4 AND I GIVE YOU THIS TO MAKE YOU GO BACK 



turbance in a southeasterly direction, observing a high 
snowy peak at 20° (b. m.), and a low 7 pass in the mountain 
range to our northeast at 55° (b. m.). A very high range 
stood ahead of us in the far distance, with low hills be- 
tween. In going round one of these lonely hills we found 
at the foot of it another and more important mani wall of 
some length, with numberless inscriptions of all ages and 
sizes on stones, pieces of bone, skulls, and horns. Farther 
on, to the south, there were three smaller hillocks and 
two larger ones. The soldiers we had routed at the en- 

75 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

campment had proceeded in the direction we were now 
following, and we were, in fact, treading all along on the 
footprints of their ponies. 

We had to cross a river and a number of rivulets, and 
so troublesome was it each time to take off one's shoes 
and clothes to wade through, that we bundled up our 
clothes on the yaks, and travelled along for the rest of the 
afternoon barefooted and with nothing on but a doti (loin- 
cloth), in the style adopted by fakirs. 

In an arc of a circle from 120° to i8o° (b. m.) we noticed 
very low hills, and from i6o° to 220°, some thirty or forty 
miles off, could be seen much more clearly now the high 
range we had observed before. The sun was extremely 
hot, the ground marshy, the air being thick with huge and 
very troublesome mosquitoes. We were quickly covered 
from head to foot with bites, and the irritation caused 
by them was intense. Halting on the right bank of a 
large stream at 15,600 feet, we named this spot Mosquito 
Camp. At sunset the number of mosquitoes around us 
was such as to drive us nearly mad, but fortunately the 
moment the sun disappeared the thermometer fell to 33°, 
and we had a peaceful night. 

In the evening we saw a number of horsemen riding 
full speed on a course about one mile south of ours, but 
converging to the same direction. No doubt they were 
sent to keep the authorities ahead well informed of our 
movements. 



CHAPTER LXVIII 

WASHING-DAY— A LONG MARCH — KIANG AND ANTELOPE— BENIGHTED — 
THE PURCHASE OF A GOAT — RAMIFICATIONS OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA 
— A DETOUR — THROUGH A SWAMP — MANSING AGAIN LOST AND 
FOUND 

The next was for us a great washing-day. The water 
of the stream was so pleasant and clear that we could not 
resist the temptation of having a regular cleaning up, 
washing first our clothing and spreading it to dry in the 
sun, and then cleansing our faces and bodies thoroughly 
with soap, a luxury unknown to us for ever so long. 

While I was drying myself in the sun -owing to the 
want of towels — I registered at 21 1° (b. m.) a very high 
snowy peak, and a lower one at 213 30' forming part of 
the chain before us. There were mountains on every side 
of the plain we were traversing; and another very ele- 
vated peak, of which I had taken bearings on a previous 
occasion, was at 20° (b.m.). A break occurred in the hill 
range to our northeast, showing a narrow valley, beyond 
which were high snowy mountains on either side. We 
made a very long march along the grassy plain, going to 
147 (b.m.), and encamped on the bank of the Brahma- 
putra, here already a wide, deep, and very rapid stream. 
We had passed hundreds of kiang and antelopes, and 
shortly before sunset I took a walk to the hills to try and 
bring some fresh meat to camp. I stalked a herd of an- 
telopes, and having gone some five miles from camp, I 
was benighted, and on my return had the greatest diffi- 
culty in finding my men in the darkness. They had been 

77 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

unable to light a fire, and as they had both gone fast 
asleep, I received no answer to my calls. We had selected 
a sheltered depression in the ground for our camp, and 
there being hundreds of similar spots everywhere round 
it, and no landmarks to go by, it was by no means easy 
to identify the exact place. 

Fortunately, at last, after I had shouted for some con- 
siderable time, Chanden Sing heard me, and, by the sound 
of his voice, I found my way back. In the morning \vc 
noticed a large encampment about a mile off, on the op- 
posite bank of the Brahmaputra, where we might have 
obtained provisions, but the stream was too rapid for us 
to cross ; moreover, we saw black tents in every direction 
on our side of the water, and therefore there was no rea- 
son to go to the extra trouble and danger of crossing the 
stream. 

Much to our delight, we succeeded in purchasing a 
goat from some passing Tibetans, who drove before them 
a flock of several thousand heads, and, as we could not 
find sufficient dry fuel to make a fire, we intrusted Man- 
sing with the safe conduct of the animal to our next camp, 
where we proposed to feast on it. 

The Brahmaputra had here several ramifications, most- 
ly ending in lakelets, and rendering the plain a regular 
swamp. The larger branch was very wide and deep, and 
we preferred following it to crossing it, notwithstanding 
that we had to deviate somewhat from the course which 
I would have otherwise followed. We thus made a con- 
siderable detour, but as it was, even for several miles we 
sank in mud up to our knees, or waded through water, 
out of which rose small patches of earth with tufts of 
grass that collapsed on our attempting to stand upon them. 

The whole of the northern part of the plain was ex- 
tremely marshy. Our yaks gave us no end of trouble, 

78 



SINKING IN MUD 

for when they sank unexpectedly in soft mud-holes, they 
became restless and alarmed, and in their struggles to 
save themselves, once or twice shook off their pack-sad- 
dles and loads, which we had not been able to fasten 
properly for want of ropes. Chanden Sing and I, how- 




OUR YAKS SINKING IN MUD 

ever, managed to keep up with them, and at last, on near- 
ing the hills, the ground showed greater undulations and 
was rather drier. We saw columns of smoke rising from 
near the foot of the range to the north of us. We went 
on another couple of miles, exhausted and dirty, our 
clothes, which we had spent so much soap and time in 
washing, filthy with splashes of mud. 

" Where is Mansing ? and the rabbu ?"* I asked of my 
bearer. 



*The Tibetans have three distinct kinds of goats — the rabbu, or large 
woolly animal, such as the one I had purchased ; the rattan, or small goat; 
II.— G 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

" He remained behind at the beginning of the swamp. 
He was too exhausted to drag along the goat you pur- 
chased." 

I was much concerned, on scouting the country all 
round from a hillock with my telescope, to see no signs 
of the poor fellow, and I was angry with myself for not 



KIANG 

noticing his disappearance before. As there were many 
Tibetans about the spot where he had remained, I feared 
foul play on their part, and that he might have been over- 
powered. Again I imagined that, weak as he was, he 
might have been sucked down in one of the deeper mud- 
holes, without a chance of saving himself. I left Chanden 
Sing to look after the yaks and turned back in search of 
him. As I hurried back mile after mile, struo-oljnor again 

and the chitbu, a dwarf goat whose flesh is delicious eating. The rabbit 
and ratton are the two kinds generally used for carrying loads, and they 
have sufficient strength to bear a weight not exceeding 40 pounds for a 
distance of from five to eight miles daily over fairly good ground. 

80 



TARBAR 

half across the mud swamp, and yet saw no signs of the 
poor coolie, I was almost giving up my quest in despair, 
when my eye caught something moving about half a mile 
farther on. It was the goat all by itself. I made for it 
with a sinking heart. 

It was only on getting quite close to it that I perceived 
the poor coolie, lying flat and half sunk in the mud. He 
had fallen in a faint, and though he was still breathing, 
he was quite insensible. Fortunately he had taken the 
precaution of tying the rope of the rabbit tight round his 
arm, and thus not only was it owing to the animal that 
I had found his whereabouts, but I had also saved our 
precious acquisition. With some rubbing and shaking I 
brought the poor fellow back to life, and supported him 
by the arm until we rejoined Chanden Sing. Not till the 
middle of the night did we reach Tarbar, a large Tibetan 
encampment at the foot of the hill range. 



CHAPTER LXIX 

THE ALARM GIVEN— OUR BAD MANNERS— A PEACEFUL SETTLEMENT — 
A LARGE RIVER— GIGANTIC PEAK— AGAIN ON MARSHY SOIL 

The alarm of our arrival, given first by scores of dogs 
barking at us, then by one of the natives who had vent- 
ured to leave his tent to find out the cause of the disturb- 
ance, created the usual panic in the place. 

" Gigri duk ! gigri duk ! Jogpa, Jogpa /" (Danger, 
danger; help; brigands !) cried the Tibetan, running fran- 
tically out of his tent; and a few seconds later, black 
figures could be seen everywhere, rushing in and out of 
their tents in a state of confusion. It must be remem- 
bered that, according to the manners of Tibet, one should 
time one's arrival at an encampment so as to reach it be- 
fore sundown, unless notice of one's approach is sent 
ahead. People who arrive unexpectedly in the middle 
of the night are never credited with good motives, and 
their appearance is associated with all sorts of evil inten- 
tions — murder, robbery, or extortion. I tried to set the 
minds of the good folk at ease, by stating that I meant 
no harm ; but such were their excitement and confusion 
that I could get no one to listen to me. 

Two old women came to us with a bucket of milk and 
laid it at my feet, entreating me to spare their lives; and 
great was their astonishment when, instead of finding 
themselves murdered, they received a silver rupee in pay- 
ment. This was the first step towards a peaceful settle- 
ment of the disturbance. After some time, calm was 

82 



CALM RESTORED 

restored, and, though still regarded with considerable sus- 
picion, we were politely treated by the natives. 

Unfortunately, here too we were unable to purchase 
provisions, the natives declaring that they had not suf- 
ficient for themselves. So, having feasted on the rabbu 







CARPENTER AND SADDLE-MAKER 



which we killed, and on yak's milk, w r e made preparations 
to strike camp early next morning. 

At night the thermometer fell to 26 , and the cold was 
very great; but we purchased a quantity of dung from the 
natives and made a fine fire in the morning ; and, having 
had a good meal after several days' privations, we felt 
happier than usual. The natives begged as ever, show- 

83 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



ing their unrestrained craving for money, to get which 
they would lower themselves to anything. 

Northwest of the encampment through a gorge, flowed 
a wide river which skirted the foot of the mountains. It 
was snow-fed, for in the evening the current w r as strong 
and deep, whereas early in the morning the level of the 

water was several feet low- 
er, being, however, even 
then hardly fordable. On 
leaving Tarbar, we followed 
for a while the course of 
the river, ind the day being 
glorious, we were able to 
admire fully the magnifi- 
cent panorama of the great 
rugged mountain- range to 
our southwest. The high- 
er peaks were nearly all of 
a pyramidical shape, and at 
226° 30' (b. m.) I observed a 
gigantic quadrangular peak 
which I took to be Mount 
Everest. Next to it, at 
2 2 5° 30' (b. m.), is a pyra- 
m midical peak, very lofty, but 
not to be compared in 
height or beauty to its 
neighbor. I followed a 
general course towards I20°(b.m.), and as the river, which 
we had more or less followed, now described a big bend 
towards the south-southeast, I decided to cross it. We 
waded through it successfully with water up to our necks, 
and again we found ourselves upon marshy land, with a 
repetition of the previous day's experience. 

84 




OLD WOMAN 



A SWOLLEN STORM 

Farther on we crossed three more tributaries of the 
larger stream, all fairly wide and deep; and then we had 
once more to get across the main river, now of such depth 
and rapidity as to cause us much trouble and no small 
danger. The river traverses the plain in zigzag fashion, 
and, unless we wanted to follow its banks, and so lengthen 
the journey by double or treble the distance, this was the 
only course open to us. Thus, while trying to travel in 
a straight line, we found ourselves for the third time con- 
fronted by this great river, now swollen by other snow- 
fed streams, and carrying an immense body of water. It 
was in the afternoon, too, when the water was at its 
highest. We attempted a crossing at several points, but 
found it impassible ; so I made up my mind to wait for 
low water early next morning. 



CHAPTER LXX 



ANOTHKR TIBETAN ENCAMPMENT — UNCONTROLLABLE ANIMALS — A BIG 
STREAM— WASHED AWAY — IN DREADFUL SUSPENSE— RESCUING THE 
YAK — DIVING AT GREAT ALTITUDES AND ITS EFFECTS — HOW MY 
TWO FOLLOWERS GOT ACROSS — A PRECARIOUS OUTLOOK AND A 
LITTLE COMFORT 




Apparently my yaks knew this part of the country 
well; and I noticed that, whenever I lost the track, all I 
had to do was to follow them, and they would bring me 
back to it again. Even when I drove them 
away from the track, they showed a great dis- 
inclination to move, whereas they proceeded 
willingly enough while we were on the high- 
road, which, mark you, is no road at all, for 
no track is visible except here and there, 
where the footprints of the last nomads, with 
their sheep, ponies, and yaks, have destroyed 
the grass. 

Half a mile on the other side of the river 
was an encampment of some fifty or sixty 
tents, with hundreds of yaks, and sheep graz- 
ing near it. 

At this point my two yaks, which I noticed 
had been marching with more than usual smartness, 
bolted while I was ordering Chanden Sing and Mansing 
to take down the loads, and went straight into the water. 
In attempting to make them turn back, Mansing threw 
a stone at them, which, however, only sent them on all 
the faster. The current was so strong, and the bottom 

86 



CONTRIVANCE 

FOR CARRYING 

LOADS 



AN ANXIOUS MOMENT 

of the river so soft, that they both sank, and when they 
reappeared on the surface it was only to float rapidly 
away down stream. We watched them with ever-increas- 
ing anxiety, for they seemed quite helpless. We ran 
panting along the river bank, urging them on with shouts 
to drive them to the other side. Alas, in their desperate 

llliii:M 






-«i# 



RESCUING A YAK 



struggle to keep afloat, and powerless against the cur- 
rent, the two yaks collided violently in mid-stream, and 
the bump caused the pack-saddle and loads of the smaller 
yak to turn over. The animal, thus overbalanced and 
hampered, sank and reappeared two or three times, strug- 
gling for air and life. It was, indeed, a terrible moment. 
I threw off my clothes and jumped into the water. I 
swam fast to the animal, and, with no small exertion, 
pulled him on shore, some two hundred yards farther 
down the stream. We were both safe, though breath- 
less, but, alas ! the ropes that held the baggage had given 

87 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

way, and saddle and loads had disappeared. This loss 
was a dreadful blow to us. I tried hard, by repeatedly 
diving into the river, until I was almost frozen, to recover 
my goods, but failed to find them, or even to locate them. 
Where I suspected them to be the water was over twenty 
feet deep, and the bottom of the river was of soft mud ; 
so that the weight of the loads would have caused them 
to sink and be covered over with it. 

Diving at such very great elevations gave one a pecul- 
iar and unpleasant sensation. The moment I was en- 
tirely under water, I felt as if I were compressed under 
an appalling weight which seemed to crush me. Had 
the liquid above and around me been a mass of lead in- 
stead of water, it could not have felt heavier. The sensa- 
tion was especially noticeable in my head, which felt as 
if my skull were being screwed into a vice. The beating 
at my temples was so strong that, though in ordinary 
circumstances I can remain under water for over a min- 
ute, I could there never hold out for longer than fifteen 
or twenty seconds. Each time that I shot out from be- 
low, gasping for air, my heart beat alarmingly hard, and 
my lungs seemed as if about to burst. 

I was so exhausted that I did not feel equal to convey- 
ing across my two men. So I unloaded the stronger 
yak, and then, with endless fatigue, I drove him and his 
mate again into the water. Unhampered, and good 
\swimmers as they are, they floated away with the current 
and reached the other side. Chanden Sing and Mansing, 
with his clothes and mine tied into a bundle over their 
shoulders, got on the animals, and, after a somewhat anx- 
ious passage, they arrived safely on my side, where we 
camped, my men mourning all night over the lost prop- 
erty. . The next morning I made fresh attempts to recover 
the loads, but in vain ! Unhappily they contained all 



ATTEMPTS TO RECOVER MY LOADS 

my tinned provisions, and what little other food I had, 
and they had in them besides eight hundred rupees in 
silver, the greater part of my ammunition, changes of 
clothing and three pairs of shoes, my copper hurricane 
lantern, and sundry knives and razors. 

The only thing we recovered was the pack - saddle, 
which was washed ashore some six hundred yards farther 
down. Our situation can be summed up in a few words. 
We were now in the centre of Tibet, with no food of any 
kind, no clothes to speak of, and no boots or shoes, except 
those we w r ore, which were falling to pieces. What little 
ammunition I had left could not be relied upon, owing to 
its having been in the water on several occasions ; and 
round us we had nothing but enemies — insignificant ene- 
mies if you like, yet enemies for all that. 

I got what comfort I could out of the knowledge that at 
least the water-tight cases with my scientific instruments, 
notes, sketches, and maps were saved, and as far as I was 
concerned, I valued them more than anything else I pos- 
sessed. 



CHAPTER LXXI 

HUNGRY AND WORN— A SENSE OF HUMOR — TWO BUCKETS OF MILK — 
NO FOOD TO BE OBTAINED — CHANDEN SING AND MANSING IN A 
WRETCHED STATE— THEIR FIDELITY — EXHAUSTION. 

We went on, hungry, worn out, with out feet lacerated, 
cheering one another as best we could. We laughed at 
our troubles; we laughed at the Tibetans and their comi- 
cal ways; we laughed at everything and everybody, until 
eventually we even laughed at ourselves. When you are 
hungry, the sun seems slow at describing its daily semi- 
circle from east to west; yet though involuntary fasting 
gives you at first an acute pain in the stomach, it doesn't 
become unbearable until after several days' absolute want 
of food ; that is to say, if you are in a way accustomed, as 
we were, to extra long intervals between one meal and the 
next. When we got to our third day's fasting we were 
keen enough for a meal ; and, perceiving some black tents 
close by the mountain side, about four miles out of our 
course, we made for them with hungry haste. We pur- 
chased two bucketsful of yak's milk, one of which I drank 
there and then myself, the second being equally divided 
between my two servants. That was all we could get. 
They would sell us absolutely nothing else. 

After this we moved forward again, making steady, and, 
if one allows for the great elevation we were at, compara- 
tively rapid progress ; noting down everything, and hold- 
ing our own against all comers. We encountered pleas- 
ant people, and some unpleasant ones, but, whether their 

90 



COLD, STARVED, AND TIRED 

manner was courteous or the reverse, we could nowhere 
obtain food for love or money. 

Poor Mansing and Chanden Sing, not having the same 
interest that I had in my work to keep up their spirits, 
were now in a dreadful condition. Cold, tired, and starved, 







'«te»' < *ip s 




'Wmm?^ 



AUTHOR DRINKING OUT OF A BUCKET 

the poor wretches had hardly strength left to stand on 
their feet, the soles of which were badly cut and very sore. 
It really made my heart bleed to see these two brave fel- 
lows suffer as they did for my sake ; and yet no word of 
complaint came from them ; not once did their lips utter 
a reproach. 

" Never mind if we suffer or even die," said the poor 

qi 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

fellows, when I expressed my sympathy with them, " we 
will follow you as long as we have strength to move, and 
we will stand by you, no matter what happens." 

I had to relieve Chanden Sing of his rifle, as he was no 
longer able to carry it. I myself, too, felt languid and ex- 
hausted as the days went by, and got scarcely any food. 
I cannot say that I experienced any very severe physical 




55&«* ff 



ui.vL 



SHRINE INSIDE TENT 



pain. This was due, I think, to the fact that my exhaust- 
ion brought on fever. I had, nevertheless, a peculiar 
feeling in my head, as if my intellect, never too bright, 
had now been altogether dulled. My hearing, too, became 
less acute ; and I felt my strength slowly dying down like 
the flame of a lamp with no more oil in it. The nervous 
excitement and strain alone kept me alive, and I went on 
walking mechanically. 

92 



CHAPTER LXXII 

EIGHTY BLACK TENTS— STARVED— KINDLY NATIVES— PRESENTS — ANDO 
AND HIS PROMISES— A FRIENDLY LAMA — A LOW PASS — MY PLANS 

We reached an encampment of some eighty black 
tents and a mud guard-house. We were positively in a 
starved condition and it was utterly impossible to pro- 
ceed farther, owing to the wretched condition of my two 
men. They begged to be given ponies to ride, for their 
feet were so sore that, notwithstanding their anxiety to 
follow me, they could not. 

The natives received us very kindly, and, on my ap- 
plying for them, consented to sell me ponies, clothes, and 
provisions. We encamped about two miles beyond the 
settlement, and during the evening several persons vis- 
ited my tent, bringing gifts of flour, butter, and tsamba, 
accompanied by Katas, the veils of friendship. I made a 
point of invariably giving the Tibetans, in return for 
their gifts, silver money to an amount three or four 
times greater than the value of the articles they pre- 
sented us with, and they professed to be very grateful for 
it. A man called Ando, who styled himself a Gourkha, 
but wore the garb of the Tibetans, came to visit us in 
our tent, and promised to bring for sale several ponies 
the next mornino-. He also undertook to sell me a suf- 
ficient quantity of food to enable us to reach Lhassa, 
and, to show 7 his good faith, brought a portion of the sup- 
plies in the evening, and said he would let us have the 
remainder the next morning. 

93 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

We next had a visit from a Lama, who appeared both 
civil and intelligent, and who presented us with some but- 
ter and chura (cheese). He had travelled in India, he told 
us, as far as Calcutta, and was on his way from Gartok to 
Lhassa, where he expected to arrive in four or five days, 




■■0§if;g 



-^ ...^ vS-„ *"& 



MUD GUARD-HOUSE 



having an excellent pony, Other Lamas and men who 
came to see us stated that they had come from Lhassa in 
that time, and I do not think that they can have been 
far wrong, as the whole distance from the Lippu Pass on 
the frontier (near Garbyang) to Lhassa can be covered in 
sixteen days on horseback. 

The natives, as usual, showed great reticence in letting 
out the name of the encampment, some calling it Toxem, 
others Taddju. North of us was a low pass in the hill 
range, and it was my intention, if I succeeded in pur- 
chasing provisions and ponies, to cross over this pass 

94 



PLAN TO ENTER THE SACRED CITY 




. •*;-;*' 






and proceed towards the Sacred City, following a course 
on the northern side of the mountain range, having al- 
ready seen as much as I wanted of the Tibetans. Be- 
sides, the highway to Lhassa was getting so thickly pop- 
ulated that I thought it ad- 
visable to travel through 
less inhabited regions. I 
intended proceeding, dress- 
ed as a European, until 
within a few miles of 
Lhassa. Then I would 
leave my two men concealed 
in some secluded spot, and 
assuming a disguise, I would 
penetrate alone during the 
night into the city. This 
would have been easy 

enough, as Lhassa has no gates, and only a ruined wall 
round it. 

I succeeded in purchasing some clothing and boots 
from the Tibetans, and the pigtail that I needed to make 
me pass for a Tibetan I intended to make myself, out of 
the silky hair of my yaks. To avoid betraying myself by 
my inability to speak Tibetan fluently, I thought of pre- 
tending to be deaf and dumb. 

A good meal brought hope and high spirits, and when 
I retired to sleep I saw myself already inside the sacred 
walls. 

II.— H 




TIBETAN BELLOWS 



CHAPTER LXXIII 



STRANGE NOISES — ANDO THE TRAITOR — PURCHASING PROVISIONS AND 
PONIES — A HANDSOME PONY— DECOYED AWAY FROM MY TENT AND 
RIFLES — POUNCED UPON — THE FIGHT — A PRISONER 



During the night I was aroused several times by 
noises, and I went out of my tent to look for the dis- 
turbers, but failed to discover any one. 
This had become my nightly experience, 
and I attached very little importance to 
these sounds. 

In the morning, Ando and two or 
three Tibetans came to sell us provi- 
sions and ponies, and, while my two ser- 
vants and I were engaged in purchasing 
what we required, I saw a number of vil- 
lagers coming up in groups. Some spun 
their wool, others carried bags of tsamba 
and flour, while others still arrived lead- 
ing a number of fine ponies. Having 
purchased provisions to last us a couple 
of months, we now began the selection 
of mounts, and naturally my servants and myself were 
overjoyed at our unexpected piece of luck in finding our- 
selves, after untold sufferings and privations of all kinds, 
confronted with abundance of everything we could possi- 
bly desire. The demeanor of the Tibetans was so friendly, 
and they seemed so guileless, that I never thought of 
suspecting them. Chanden Sing and Mansing, who at 

96 




A DISTAFF 



o 

> 

2 

O 

O 
2 




TREACHERY 

bottom were sportsmen of the very first order, delighted 
at the prospect of getting animals, rode first one pony 
and then another to suit themselves ; and Chanden Sing, 
having selected a handsome beast for his own use, called 
me to try it and examine it before paying over the pur- 
chase-money. Unsuspecting of foul play, and also be- 
cause it would not be convenient to try the various lively 
ponies with my rifle slung over my shoulder, I walked 




ROPE RIDING-WHIP 



unarmed to the spot, about a hundred yards away from 
my tent, where the restless animal was being held for my 
inspection. The natives followed behind me, but such a 
thing being common in any country when one buys a 
horse in public, I thought nothing of it. As I stood with 
my hands behind my back, I well recollect the expression 
of delight on Chanden Sing's face when I approved of his 
choice, and, as is generally the case on such occasions, 
the crowd behind in a chorus expressed their gratuitous 
opinion on the superiority of the steed selected. I had 
just stooped to look at the pony's fore legs, when I was 
suddenly seized from behind by several persons, who 

97 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



■^■' ^yr^i^rvr-i^. i 




l"S 



y 



I WAS A PRISONER 



grabbed me by the neck, wrists, and legs, and threw me 
down on my face. I struggled and fought until I shook 
off some of my assailants and regained my feet; but 

98 



A PRISONER 

others rushed up, and I was surrounded by some thirty 
men, who attacked me from every side, and clinging to 
me with all their might succeeded in grabbing my arms, 
legs and head. Weak as I was, they knocked me down 
three more times, and three more times I regained my 
feet. I fought to the bitter end with my fists, feet, head, 
and teeth each time that I got one hand or leg free from 
their clutches, hitting right and left at any part where I 
could disable my opponents. Their timidity, even when 
in such overwhelming numbers, was indeed beyond de- 
scription ; and it was entirely due to it, and not to my 
strength (for I had hardly any), that I was able to hold 
my own against them for some twenty minutes. My 
clothes were torn to bits in the fight Long ropes were 
thrown at me from every side, and I became so entangled 
in them that my movements were impeded. One rope 
which they flung and successfully twisted round my neck 
completed their victory. They pulled hard at it from the 
two ends, and while I panted and gasped with the exer- 
tion of fighting, they tugged and tugged to strangle me, 
till I felt as if my eyes would shoot out of their sockets. 
I was suffocating. My sight became dim, and I was in 
their power. Dragged down to the ground, they stamped, 
and kicked, and trampled upon me with their heavy nailed 
boots, until I was stunned. Then they tied my wrists 
tightly behind my back ; they bound my elbows, my 
chest, my neck and my ankles. I was a prisoner ! 

33 



CHAPTER LXXIV 

CHANDEN SING'S PLUCKY RESISTANCE — MANSING SECURED— A SIGNAL 
—A TREACHEROUS LAMA — CONFISCATION OF BAGGAGE — WATCHES, 
COMPASSES AND ANEROIDS — FEAR AND AVIDITY — THE AIR-CUSHION 
— DRAGGED INTO THE ENCAMPMENT 

They lifted me and made me stand up. The brave 
Chanden Sing had been struggling with all his might 
against fifteen or twenty foes, and had 
disabled several of them. He had been 
pounced upon at the same moment that 
I was, and had fought gallantly until, like 
myself, he had been entangled, thrown 
down and secured by ropes. During my 
struggle I heard him call out repeatedly : 
" Banduk, banduk, Mcwtsing ; jaldi ban- 
duk /" (Rifle, rifle, Mansing ; quick, my 
rifle !) but, alas, poor Mansing the leper, 
the weak and jaded coolie, had been sprung 
upon by four powerful Tibetans, who held 
him pinned to the ground as if he had 
been the fiercest of bandits. Mansing was 
a philosopher. He had saved himself the 
trouble of even offering any resistance ; 
but he, too, was illtreated and beaten and 
tightly bound. At the beginning of the 
ear-ring worn fight a sh rill whistle had brought up four 
ficials hundred* armed soldiers who had lain in 



* The Lamas stated afterwards that this was the number. 

IOO 








.,'■:.-.'-' .^ v: ->>- 



^ 




I.:: 




BOUND AND SEARCHED 

ambush round us, concealed behind the innumerable sand- 
hills and in the depressions in the ground. They took up 
a position round us and covered us with their matchlocks. 

All was now over, and, bound like a dangerous criminal, 
I looked round to see what had become of my men. When 
I realised that it took the Tibetans five hundred men # 
all counted to arrest a starved Englishman and his two 
half-dying servants, and that, even then, they dared not do 
it openly, but had to resort to abject treachery ; when I 
found that these soldiers were picked , troops from Lhassa 
and Shigatz (Shigatze), despatched on purpose to arrest 
our progress and capture us, I could not restrain a smile 
of contempt for those into whose hands we had at last 
fallen. 

My blood boiled when, upon the order of the Lama, 
who the previous night had professed to be our friend, 
several men advanced and searched our pockets. They 
rifled us of everything we possessed, and began overhaul- 
ing our baggage. The watches and chronometer were 
looked upon with suspicion, their ticking causing anxiety 
and curiosity. They were passed round and round and 
mercilessly thrown about from one person to the other, 
until they stopped. They were then pronounced " dead." 
The compasses and aneroids, which they could not dis- 
tinguish from watches, were soon thrown aside, as " they 
had no life in them," but great caution was displayed in 
touching our rifles, which were lying on our bedding 
when the tent had been torn down. 

Great fears were entertained lest they should go off by 
themselves; and it was only on my assurance (which 
made our captors ten times more cautious) that they were 
not loaded, that at last they took them and registered 

* Counting Lamas, villagers, and soldiers. 
IOI 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



them in the catalogue of our confiscated property. I had 
upon me a gold ring that my mother had given me when 
I was a child. I asked permission to retain it, and with 
their superstitious nature they immediately thought that 
it had occult powers, like the wands one reads 
of in fairy tales. 

A man called Nerba, who later on played an 
important part in our sufferings, was intrusted 
with it, and warned never to let me see it 
again. As we three prisoners sat bound and 
held down by guards it was heartbreaking to 
see the Lamas and officers handle all our things 
so roughly as to spoil nearly all they touched; 
but particularly disgusting was their avidity 
when, in searching the pockets of the coat I 
wore daily, and which I had not put on that 
morning, they found a quantity of silver coins, 
some eight hundred rupees in all. Officers, 
Lamas, and soldiers made a grab for the money, 
and when order was re-established only a few 
coins remained where the sum had been laid 
down. Other moneys which they found in one 
of our loads met with a similar fate. Among 
the things arousing greatest curiosity was an 
india-rubber pillow fully blown out. The soft, 
smooth texture of the india-rubber seemed to 
catch their fancy, and one after the other they 
rubbed their cheeks on the cushion, exclaiming 
at the pleasant sensation it gave them. How- 
ever, in playing with the brass screw by which the cush- 
ion is inflated, they gave it a turn, and the imprisoned air 
found its way out with a hissing noise. This created 
quite a panic among the Tibetans, and many were the 
conjectures of their superstitious minds as to the mean- 

102 



A SPEAR 



MY PROPERTY SEIZED 

ing of the strange contrivance. They regarded it as an 
evil omen, and naturally I took advantage of any small 
incident of this kind to work judiciously on their super- 
stitions and frighten them as much as I could. 










TIBETANS OVERHAULING OUR BAGGAGE 

The Tibetans, having examined all except my water- 
tight cases of instruments, photographic plates, and 
sketches, seemed so upset at one or two things that hap- 
pened, and at some remarks I made, that they hurriedly 
sealed up all my property in bags and blankets, and 
ordered the things to be placed on yaks and brought into 
the guard-house of the settlement. This done, they tied 
the end of the ropes that bound our necks to the pom- 
mels of their saddles, and, having loosed our feet, they 
sprang on their ponies and rode off, with shouts, hisses, 
and cries of victory, firing their matchlocks in the air, and 
dragging us prisoners into the settlement. 

103 



I 



CHAPTER LXXV 

WARNING TO MY MEN— CALM AND COOLNESS— THE POMBO'S TENT— 
CHANDEN SING CROSS-EXAMINED AND FLOGGED 



On reaching the settlement, my last words to my men 
before we were separated were : " No matter what they 
do to you, do not let them see that you suffer," and they 
promised to obey me. We were then conveyed to differ- 
ent tents. I was dragged to one of the larger tents, in- 
side and outside of which soldiers were placed on guard. 
Those near me were at first sulky and rough in their 
manner and speech, but I always made a point of answer- 
ing them in as collected and polite a fashion as I could. 
I had on many previous occasions found that nothing 
carries one further in dealings with Asiatics than to keep 
calm and cool, and I saw in a moment that if we were 
ever to get out of our present scrape it would be by main- 
taining a perfectly impassive demeanor in face of any- 
thing that might take place. Whether I acted my part 
well it is not for me to say, but the reader can satisfy him- 
self on that point by perusing the Government inquiry 
and report made by Mr. J. Larkin, and given in the Ap- 
pendix to this book. 

The tent being kept closed, I was unable to discover 
what happened outside, but from the noises I heard of 
people rushing hither and thither, and of shouted orders, 
besides the continuous tinkling of the soldiers' horse-bells 
as they galloped past the tent, I concluded that the place 
must be in a state of turmoil. I had been some three 

104 



ASTONISHED TIBETANS 

hours in the tent when a soldier entered and ordered me 
out. 

" They are going to cut off his head," said he to his 
comrades ; and, turning round to me, he made a signifi- 
cant gesture with his hand across his neck. 

"Nikutza " (All right), said I, dryly. 

It must not be forgotten that when a Tibetan himself 
hears words of this import, he usually goes down on his 



—j 






THE POMBO S TENT 



knees and implores to be spared, with tears, and sobs, and 
prayers in profusion. So it is not surprising that the 
Tibetans were somewhat astonished at my answer, and 
seemed puzzled as to what to make of it. Anyhow, the 
first ardor of the messenger was sensibly cooled down, and 
I was led out with more reluctance than firmness. 

During the time I had been shut up. a huge white tent 
with blue ornaments had been pitched in front of the 

105 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

mud-house, and round it were hundreds of soldiers and 
villagers — a most picturesque sight. 

As I was led nearer, I perceived that the front of the 
tent was wide open, and inside stood a great number of 
red Lamas, with shaven heads, in their long woollen 
tunics. The soldiers stopped me when I was about 
twenty yards from the tent. Additional ropes were added 
to those already cutting into my wrists, elbows, and chest, 
and the others made tighter. I perceived Chanden Sing 
led forward, and then, instead of taking me before the 
Lamas, they pushed me to the rear of the solitary mud- 
house to preclude my witnessing the scene that followed. 
I heard Chanden Sing being interrogated in a loud, angry 
tone of voice, and accused of having been my guide. 
Next I heard wild shouts from the crowd, then a dead si- 
lence. A few instants later I distinguished the snapping 
noise of a lash, followed by hoarse moans from my poor 
bearer, to whom they were evidently applying it. 

I counted the strokes, the sickening noise of which is 
still well impressed on my memory, as they regularly and 
steadily fell one after the other to twenty, to thirty, forty, 
and fifty. Then there was a pause. 



CHAPTER LXXVI 

LED BEFORE THE TRIBUNAL— THE POMBO— CLASSICAL TIBETAN BEYOND 
ME — CHANDEN SING LASHED — THE LAMAS PUZZLED — A SUDDEN 
CHANGE IN THE POMBO'S ATTITUDE 

A number of soldiers now came for me, and I was first 
led, then pushed violently before the tribunal. 

On a high seat in the centre of the tent sat a man wear- 
ing ample trousers of gaudy yellow and a short yellow 
coat with flowing sleeves. On his head he had a huge 
four -pointed hat, gilt all over, and with three great eyes 
painted on it. He was young-looking, and his head was 
clean shaven, as he was a Lama of the highest order, a 
Grand Lama and a Pombo, or Governor of the province, 
with powers equivalent to those of a feudal king. On his 
right stood a stout and powerful red Lama who held a 
huge double-handed sword, and behind, and at the sides, 
were a number of other Lamas, officers and soldiers. As 
I stood silent, and with my head held high before him, two 
or three Lamas rushed at me and ordered me to kneel. 
They tried to compel me to do so, by forcing me on my 
knees, but I succeeded in maintaining an upright posture. 

The Pombo, who was furious at my declining to kneel 
before him, addressed me in words that sounded violent; 
but as he spoke classical Tibetan, and I only the collo- 
quial language, I could not understand a word of what he 
said, and I meekly asked him not to use such fine words, 
as they were unintelligible to me. 

The great man was taken aback at this unheard-of re- 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 




quest, and, with a frown on his face, he pointed to me to 
look to my left. The soldiers and Lamas drew aside, 
and I beheld Chanden Sing lying flat on his face, stripped 
from the waist downward, in front of a row of Lamas and mili- 
tary men. Two power- 
ful Lamas, one on each 
side of him, began again 
to castigate him with 
knotted leather thongs 
weighted with lead, lay- 
ing on their strokes 
with vigorous arms from 
his waist to his feet 
He was bleeding all 
over. Each time that 
a lash fell on his wound- 
ed skin it felt as if a 
dagger had been stuck 
into my chest; but I 
knew Orientals too well 
to show any pity for the 
man, as this would have 
only involved a more 
severe punishment for 
him. So I looked on 
at his torture as one 
would upon a thing of 
every - day occurrence. 
The Lamas nearer to 
me shook their fists un- 
der my nose, and explained that my turn would come 
next, whereupon I smiled and repeated the usual " Ni- 
kutza, nikutza " (Very good, very good). 

The Pombo and his officers were at a loss what to 

1 08 



i 



x 



ik 







THE POMBO 



THE POMBO 

make of me, as I could plainly see by their faces ; so that 
the more I perceived how well my plan was answering, 
the more courage I screwed up to play my part to the 
best of my ability. 

The Pombo, an effeminate, juvenile, handsome person, 
almost hysterical in manner, and likely to make a splen- 
did subject for hypnotic experiments (I had reason to 
think, indeed, that he had already often been under mes- 
meric influence), remained with his eyes fixed upon mine 
as if in a trance for certainly over two minutes. 

There was a wonderful and sudden change in the man, 
and his voice, arrogant and angry a few moments before, 
was now soft and apparently kindly. The Lamas around 
him were evidently concerned at seeing their lord and 
master transformed from a foaming fury to the quietest of* 
lambs ; so they seized me and brought me out of his 
sight to the spot where Chanden Sing was being chas- 
tised. Here again I could not be compelled to kneel, so 
at last I was allowed to squat down before the Pombo s 
officers. 



CHAPTER LXXVII 

MY NOTE-BOOKS AND MAPS— WHAT THE LAMAS WANTED ME TO SAY — 
MY REFUSAL — ANGER AND THREATS — ANDO, THE TRAITOR— CHANDEN 
SING'S HEROISM — A SCENE OF CRUELTY — RAIN 

The two Lamas, leaving Chanden Sing, produced my 
note-books and maps, and proceeded to interrogate me 




A SOLDIER 



closely, saying that, if I spoke the truth, I should be 
spared, otherwise I should be flogged and then beheaded. 
I answered that I would speak the truth, whether they 
punished me or not 

no 



WHAT THE LAMAS WANTED ME TO SAY 



One of the Lamas, a great big brute, who was dressed 
up in a gaudy red silk coat, with gold embroidery at the 
collar, and who had taken part in the flogging of Chan- 
den Sing, told me I must say u that my servant had 
shown me the road across Tibet, and that he had done 
the maps and sketches." If I would say this, they were 
willing to release me 
and have me conveyed 
back to the frontier, 
promising to do me no 
further harm. They 
would cut my servant's 
head off, that was alh 
but no personal injury 
should be inflicted on 
me. 

I explained clearly to 
the Lamas that I alone 
was responsible for the 
maps and sketches, and 
for finding my way so 
far inland. I repeated 
several times, slowly and 
distinctly, that my ser- 
vant was innocent, and that therefore there was no rea- 
son to punish him. He had only obeyed my orders in 
following me to Tibet, and I alone, not my two servants, 
was to be punished if anybody was punishable. 

The Lamas were angry at this, and one of them struck 
me violently on the head with the butt-end of his riding- 
crop. I pretended not to notice it, though it made my 
scalp ache and smart. 

" Then we shall beat you and your man until you say 
what we want," the Lama exclaimed, angrily. 
34 in 




<JHJ.l_ 



SOLDIER WITH PIGTAIL WOUND ROUND 
HIS HEAD 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



" You can beat us if you like," I replied with assurance, 
"but if you punish us unjustly it will go against your- 
selves. You can tear our skin off, and you can make 
us bleed to death, but you cannot make us feel pain." 

Ando, the traitor, who spoke Hindustani fluently, acted 
as an interpreter whenever there was a hitch in our 

Tibetan conversation, and with 
what I knew of the language, 
and with this man's help, every- 
thing was explained to the Tib- 
etans as clearly as possible. 
Notwithstanding this, they con- 
tinued mercilessly to lash my 
poor servant, who, in his agony, 
was biting the ground as each 
blow fell on him and tore away 
patches of skin and flesh. 
Chanden Sing behaved hero- 
ically. Not a word of com- 
plaint, nor a prayer for mercy, 
came from his lips. He said 
that he had spoken the truth 
and had nothing more to say. 
Watched intently by all the 
Lamas and soldiers, I sat with affected stoicism before 
this scene of cruelty, until, angry at my phlegm, order 
was given to the soldiers that I should be dragged away. 
Again they led me behind the mud-house, from where I 
could distinctly hear the angry cries of the Lamas cross- 
examining Chanden Sing, and those dreadful sounds of 
the lash still being administered. 

It began to rain heavily, and this was a bit of luck 
for us, for in Tibet, as in China, a shower has a 
great effect upon the people, and even massacres have 

112 







AN OFFICER 






EFFECT OF RAIN IN TIBET 

been known to be put a stop to until the rain should 
cease. 

Such was the case that day. The moment the first 
drops fell, the soldiers and Lamas rushed here, there, and 
everywhere inside the tents, and I was hastily dragged 
to the most distant tent of the settlement, which became 
packed with the guards into whose charge I had been 
given. 




CHAPTER LXXVIII 

A HIGH MILITARY OFFICER— A LIKELY FRIEND — A SOLDIER AND NOT A 
LAMA — HIS SYMPATHY— FACTS ABOUT THE TIBETAN ARMY 

An officer of high rank was sitting cross-legged at the 
farther end of the tent. He wore a handsome dark-red 
gown trimmed with gold and leopard skin, 
and was shod with tall black and red leath- 
er boots of Chinese shape. A beautiful 
purse sword with solid silver sheath inlaid with 
large pieces of coral and malachite was 
passed through his belt. 

This man, apparently between fifty and sixty years of 
age, had an intelligent, refined, honest, good-natured face; 
and somehow or other I felt from the very 
first moment I saw him that he would be 
a friend. And, indeed, whereas the sol- 
diers and Lamas treated me with brutality 

J FLINT AND 

and took every mean advantage that they steel 

could, this officer was alone in showing 
some deference to me and some appreciation of my be- 
havior. He made room by his side and signed that I 
might sit there. 

" I am a soldier," said he, in a digni- 
fied tone, " not a Lama. I have come 
from Lhassa with my men to arrest you, 
snuffbox an d y ou are now our prisoner. But you 
have shown no fear, and I respect you." 
So saying, he inclined his head and laid his forehead 

114 





A FRIEND 







FLINT-AND-STEEL POUCH 



touching mine, and pulled out his tongue. Then he 
made a gesture signifying that, though he wished to, he 
could not then say more, owing to the presence of the 
soldiers. 

Later on we entered into a most amicable conver- 
sation, in the course of which he said that he was a 
Rupun (a grade below that of gen- 
eral). I tried to explain to him all 
about English soldiers and weap- 
ons, and he displayed the keenest 
interest in all I told him. In re- 
turn he gave me interesting infor- 
mation about the soldiers of Tibet. 
Every man in Tibet is considered 
a soldier in time of war or when 
required to do duty, but for the reg- 
ular army all lads that are strong 
and healthy can enlist from the 

age of seventeen, those deformed or weakly being rejected 
as unfit for service. Good horsemanship is one of the 
qualities most appreciated in the Tibetan soldier, and, 
after that, unbounded obedience. The Rupun swore by 
the Tibetan matchlocks, which he believed to be the most 
serviceable weapons on earth ; for, according to him, as 
long as you had powder enough, you could use anything 
as a missile. Pebbles, earth, or nails did as good work 
as any lead bullet. 

He told me that large quantities of these weapons were 
manufactured at Lhassa and Sigatz (Shigatze), and he 
stated that the majority of Tibetan men outside the 
towns possess one. Gunpowder was also made with salt- 
petre and sulphur found in the country. 

The Rupun, seeing how quick I was at picking up 
words, took a special delight in teaching me, as one would 

ii5 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

a child, the names of the several grades in the Tibetan 
army. The Tchu-pun* was the lowest grade, and only 
had ten men under him ; then came the Kiatsamba-pun 
or Kia-pun,\ or officer in command of one hundred sol- 
diers; and the Tung-pun,% or head of one thousand. 
These officers, however, are seldom allowed the full com- 



plement of soldiers according to their grade, and 
very often the " commander of one thousand " has 
only under him three or four hundred men at the 
most. Above the Tung-pun comes the Rupun, a 
kind of adjutant-general; then the Dah-pun, or 
great officer ; and highest of all, the Mag-pun (or 
Mag-bun, as it is usually pronounced), the gener- 
al in chief. 

The acquaintance of one of these generals we 
had already made at Gyanema. Though my in- 
formant said that officers are elected for their 
bravery in time of war and for their strength and 
aptitude in the saddle and with their weapons, I 
knew well enough that such was not the case. LEATHER 

° . HORSE- 

The posts are mainly given to whoever can af- whip 
ford to pay most for them, and to men of families 
under special protection of the Lamas. In many cases 
they are actually sold by auction. 

The method described by the Rupun was nevertheless 
what is popularly believed by the masses of Tibet to be 
the way in which military officers are chosen. 

* Tchu, ten, pun, officer, or officer of ten men. 
t Kiatsamba or A7# = one hundred. 
\ Tung = one thousand. 
116 



CHAPTER LXXIX 

SARCASM APPRECIATED— KINDNESS— A CHANGE FOR THE WORSE — THE 
PLACE FOR AN ENGLISHMAN — VERMIN — A TIBETAN PRAYER 

The Rupun possessed a good deal of dry humor, and 
I told him how fast the Tibetan soldiers had run away 
on previous occasions when I had met them and had my 
rifle by me. But he was quite equal to the situation and 
exclaimed : " Yes, I know that they ran, but it was not 
through fear. It was because they did not wish to hurt 
you." Upon which I answered that, if that were the 
case, they need not have run so fast. 

The Rupun seemed amused and laughed at my sar- 
casm. He patted me on the back and said I was right. 
He professed to be grieved to see me tied up, and said 
he had received strict orders not to give me food or un- 
loose my bonds. 

The soldiers, who had been listening open-mouthed to 
the affable and friendly conversation between the Rupun 
and myself, a practice not common in Tibet between 
captor and prisoner, followed their chiefs example, and 
from being harsh and rough, turned quite kindly and 
respectful. They placed a cushion under me and tried 
to make me as comfortable as they could in the circum- 
stances. 

Towards the evening, however, the Rupun was sum- 
moned before the Pombo, and the guard was relieved by 
a fresh lot of men. This was a change for the worse. 
Their manner was extremely rough, and they dragged 

117 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

me away from the dignified seat I had occupied in 
the place of honor in the tent, and knocked me vio- 
lently down on a heap of dung which they used for 
fuel. 

" That is the place for plenkis /" shouted one of the 
men, " not in the best part of the tent." 

They pounced upon me roughly, and though I made 
no resistance whatever, they again tied my feet together, 

and another rope was fast- 
ened round my knees. The 
ends of these ropes were 
left long, and each was 
given in charge of a sol- 
dier. 

No part of a Tibetan 
tent is over clean, but the 
spot where I was to rest 
for the night was the dirt- 
iest. Bound so tightly that 
the ropes cut channels in 
my flesh, it was out of the 
question to sleep; but ten- 
fold worse than this was 
the disgusting fact that I soon got covered with ver- 
min, which swarmed in the tent. From this time till 
the end of my captivity, or twenty-five days later, I suf- 
fered unspeakable tortures from this pest. The guards, 
with their swords drawn, were all round me inside the 
tent, and others were posted outside. 

The night was full of strange events. Shouts could 
be heard at intervals from a distance outside, and some 
one of the guard in the tent answered them. They were 
to keep the men awake and make sure that I was still 
there. One of the soldiers in the tent revolved his 

118 




CHARM-BOX 



A PRAYER 

prayer- wheel, muttering the following prayer so often 
that I learned it by heart : 

Sangbo, sangbo 
Yabni namla dupchenche 
Yumni sala lockchendir 
Lashin shukpi Kani san 
Pashin tagpe Kani san 
Yulo parba palui san 
Tumlo parba wumboi san 
Lassan lussan tamjeh san 
Chedan Kordan jindan san 
Takpeh yeiki polloh san 
Takpeh yonki molloh san 
Tzurzu Kaghi Tablah san 
Arah, Banza, Nattitti 
Jebmi jangla changzalu. 

The almost literal translation of the words is this: 

Oh, my God, I confess 

That my father has gone to heaven, 

But my mother is at present alive {lit. in the house). 

First my mother sinned 

And you took all men to heaven, 

Then my mother and father sinned and I will go to heaven. 

If all other men and I sin, and we withdraw our sins, 

We are all liable to sin and the wumboo wood absolves (///. washes all) 

from all sins. 
On the northwest (Lassan) and southeast (Lussan) are the two ways 

to heaven. 
Tread the holy book and purify myself, 
My arm-bone* is the sacred bone {lit. God's bone). 
And the sign of manhood my left arm. 
Oh, my God, who art above my head, 
And at the sacred Kujernath, Banzah and Nattitti, 
I pray every day for health and wealth (silver and gold). 

* The Tibetans believe that in men the left, and in women the right, arm 
belongs to God. They regard it as sacred, because with this arm food is 
conveyed to the mouth, thus giving life to the body, and also because it is 
with the arms that one can defend oneself against one's enemies. The 
bone of the nose is also regarded as sacred. 

ii 9 



CHAPTER LXXX 

THE RUPUN AS A FRIEND— TREATED WITH RESPECT AND DEFERENCE — 
FED BY THE RUPUN AND SOLDIERS— IMPROVING MY KNOWLEDGE OF 
TIBETAN 

In the middle of the night the Rupun returned. I no- 
ticed he seemed very much upset. He sat by my side, 
and by the light of the flickering fire and a wick burning 
in a brass bowl filled with butter, I could 

^T jSjffrJB fc see i n his f ace an expression of great anxi- 

v % ety. I felt, by the compassionate way in 

^^^ which he looked at me, that he had grave 

puku, or news to give me. I was not mistaken. He 
wooden cup movec j me f rom the pestilent place where 
I had been thrown down helpless by the 
soldiers, and laid me in a more comfortable and cleaner 
part of the tent. Then he ordered a soldier to bring 
me a blanket. Next, to my astonishment, he became 
very severe, and said he must examine my bonds. He 
turned quite angry, scolding the soldiers for leaving me 
so insecurely tied, and proceeded to make 
the knots firmer, a thing which I felt was 
impossible. Though he pretended to use 
all his strength in doing this, I found, much 
to my amazement, that my bonds were re- 
ally becoming loosened. He then quickly PUK u, or 
covered me up with the blanket. wooden cup 

The soldiers were at the other end of the 
large tent, and seemed occupied with a loud argument 
over some paltry matter. The Rupun, stooping low, 

1 20 




AN OFFER OF LIBERTY 

and making pretence to tuck me in the blanket, whis- 
pered : 

"Your head is to be cut off to-morrow. Escape to-night. 
There are no soldiers outside." 

The good man was actually preparing everything for 
my flight. He put out the light, and came to sleep by 
my side. It would have been comparatively easy, when 
all the men had fallen asleep, to slip from under the tent 
and steal away. I had got my hands easily out of the 
ropes, and should have had no difficulty in undoing all my 
other bonds ; but the thought that I should be leaving 
my two men at the mercy of the Tibetans prevented my 
carrying the escape into effect. The Rupun, having risen 
to see that the guard were asleep, lay down again close to 
me and murmured : 

"Nelon, nelon ; palado " (They are asleep ; go). 

Well meant and tempting as the offer was, I told him 
I must stay with my men. 

Having my hands free, I managed to sleep a little dur- 
ing the night ; and when the morning came I slipped my 
hands again inside the ropes. 

The Rupun, who seemed much disappointed, tied the 
ropes round my wrists firmly again, and though he ap- 
peared rather vexed at my not having availed myself of 
the chance of flight he had given me, he treated me with 
ever-increasing respect and deference. He even produced 
his puku (wooden bowl), which he filled with steaming tea 
from the raksang* and lifted it up to my mouth for me to 
drink. 

On perceiving how thirsty and hungry I was, not only 
did this good man refill the cup time after time until my 



* Raksang, a vessel in which tea mixed with butter and salt is kept boil- 
ins; over the fire. 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

thirst was quenched, but he mixed with it tsamha, and 
lumps of butter, which he then stuffed into my mouth 
with his finger. 

It was really touching to see how, moved to kindness, 
the soldiers imitated his example, and, one after the other, 
produced handfuls of tsamba and chura, and deposited 
them in my mouth. Their hands, it is true, were not 
over clean, but on such occasions it does not do to be too 
particular, and I was so hungry that the food they gave 
me seemed delicious. I had been for two nights and one 
day without food, and, what with the exertion of the fight 
and my various exciting experiences, my appetite was very 
keen. 

This great politeness, however, and the sympathy with 
which not only the Rupun but even the soldiers treated 
me now, made me suspect that my end was indeed near. 
I was grieved not to be able to obtain news of Chanden 
Sing and Mansing ; and the soldiers' reticence in answer- 
ing questions regarding them made me fear that some- 
thing awful had happened. Nevertheless, though my 
jailers were friendly, I did not betray any anxiety, but 
pretended to take all that came as a matter of course. I 
spent the first portion of the day in a lively conversation 
with the soldiers, partly to divert my thoughts and partly 
to improve my knowledge of Tibetan. 



CHAPTER LXXXI 

A BEARER OF BAD NEWS — MARCHED OFF TO THE MUD-HOUSE — MANSING 
— INSULTS AND HUMILIATIONS — IRON HANDCUFFS INSTEAD OF ROPES 
— THE RUPUN'S SYMPATHY — NO MORE HOPE— IN THE HANDS OF THE 
MOB 

Early in the afternoon a soldier entered the tent, and 
striking me on the shoulder with his heavy hand, shouted : 

" Ohe /" (This is a Tibetan exclamation always used 
by the rougher classes when beginning a conversation. It 
corresponds to " Look here.") 

" Ohe /" repeated he ; " before the sun goes down you 
will be flogged, both your legs will be broken, * they will 
burn out your eyes, and then they will cut off your head !" 

The man, who seemed quite in earnest, accompanied 
each sentence with an appropriate gesture illustrating his 
words. I laughed at him and affected to treat the whole 
thing as a joke, partly because I thought this was the best 
way to frighten them and prevent them from using vio- 
lence, and partly because the programme thus laid before 
me seemed so extensive that I thought it could only be 
intended to intimidate me. 

However, the words of the soldier cast a gloom over my 
friendly guard in the tent, and when I tried to cheer them 
up they answered bluntly that I would not laugh for very 
long. Something was certainly happening, for the men 
rushed in and out of the tent, and whispered among them- 



* A form of torture in which, after placing the legs upon two parallel 
logs of wood, a heavy blow is given with a mallet, fracturing both legs. 

123 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

selves. When I spoke to them they would answer no 
more, and on my insisting, they made signs that their lips 
must from now be closed. They untied my feet. 

About half an hour later another person rushed into the 
tent in a great state of excitement, and signalled to my 
guards to lead me out. This they did, after making my 




SOLDIER LAYING BEFORE ME THE PROGRAMME OF TORTURES 



bonds tighter than ever, and placing extra ropes round my 
chest and arms. In this fashion I was marched off to the 
mud-house and led into one of the rooms. A large num- 
ber of soldiers and villagers assembled outside, and after 
we had waited some time, Mansing, tightly bound, was 
brought into the same room. My pleasure at seeing my 
man again was so great that I forgot all about what 

124 



1 



FALSE SWEARING 

was happening, and paid no attention to the insults 
of the mob peeping through the door. After a while a 
Lama came in with a smiling face and said he had good 
news to give me. 

" We have ponies here," he said, " and we are going to 
take you back to the frontier, but the Pombo wishes to 
see you first to-day. Do not make any resistance. Let 
us exchange the ropes round your wrists for these iron 
handcuffs." 




MY HANDCUFFS 



Here he produced a heavy pair of them, which he had 
kept concealed under his coat. 

" You will not wear them for more than a few moments, 
while we are leading you to his presence. Then you will 
be free. We swear to you by the Sun and Kunjuk-Sum 
that we will treat you kindly." 

I promised not to resist, chiefly because I had no chance 
of doing so. For greater safety they tied my legs and 
placed a sliding knot round my neck ; then I was carried 
out into the open, where a ring of soldiers with drawn 
swords stood round me. While I lay flat on my face on 

125 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



the ground, held down firmly, they unwound the ropes 
from around my wrists, and the iron fetters, joined by a 
heavy chain, were substituted for them. They took some 
time in fastening the clumsy padlock, after which, all 
being ready, they unbound my legs. 

They made me stand up again, and knowing that I 
could not possibly get my hands free, they began to load 

me with insults and offensive 
terms, not directed to me as 
an individual, but as a Plenki, 
an Englishman. They spat 
upon me and threw mud at 
me. The Lamas behaved 
worse than any of the oth- 
ers, and the one who had 
sworn that I should be in no 
way ill-used if I would sub- 
mit quietly to be handcuffed 
was the most prominent 
among my tormentors and 
the keenest in urging the crowd on to further brutality. 
Suddenly the attention of the crowd was drawn to 
the approach of the Rupun with a number of soldiers 
and officers. He seemed depressed, and his face was of 
a ghastly yellowish tint. He kept his eyes fixed on the 
ground, and, speaking very low, ordered that I should 
again be conveyed inside the mud-house. 

A few moments later he came in and closed the door 
after him, having first cleared the room of all the people 
who were in it. As I have mentioned before, Tibetan 
structures of this kind have a square aperture in the ceil- 
ing by which they are ventilated and lighted. 

The Rupun laid his forehead upon mine in sign of 
compassion, and then sadly shook his head. 

126 




PADLOCK AND KEY 



NO MORE HOPE 

"There is no more hope," he whispered; "your head 
will be cut off to-night. The Lamas are bad and my 
heart is aching. You are like my brother, and I am 
grieved. . . ." 

The good old man tried not to let me see his emotion, 
and made signs that he could stay no longer, lest he 
should be accused of being my friend. 

The mob again entered the room, and I was once more 
dragged out into the open by the Lamas and soldiers. 
Some discussion followed as to who should keep the key 
of my handcuffs, and eventually it was handed over to one 
of the officers, who mounted his pony and rode away at a 
great rate in the direction of Lhassa. 






CHAPTER LXXXII 

A PITIFUL SCENE— A STRUGGLE TO GET TO CHANDEN SING — BRUTALLY 
TREATED— A TORTURING SADDLE — ACROSS COUNTRY AT A GALLOP— 
A SPIRITED PONY— SAND DEPOSITS AND HILLS— SPECULATION— MORE 
HORSEMEN COMING TOWARDS US 

Just then I heard the voice of my servant Chanden 
Sing calling to me in a weak, agonized tone : 

" Hazur, Hazur, hztm murgiaega /" (Sir, sir, I am dy- 
ing!) and, turning my head in the direction from which 
these painful sounds came, I perceived my faithful bearer 
with his hands bound behind his back, dragging himself 
on his stomach towards the door of one of the other 
rooms of the mud-house. His poor face was hardly 
recognizable, it bore the traces of such awful suffering. 

I could stand no more. Pushing my guards aside with 
my shoulders, I endeavored to get to the poor wretch, 
and had nearly reached him when the soldiers who stood 
by sprang upon me, grappling me, and lifting me bodily 
off my feet. They threw me on the back of a pony. 

Though I now feared the worst, I tried to encourage 
my brave servant by shouting to him that I was being 
taken to Taklakot, and that he would be brought after 
me the following day. He had exhausted his last atom 
of strength in creeping to the door. He was roughly 
seized, and brutally hurled back into the room of the 
mud-house, so that we could not exchange a word more. 
Mansing the coolie was placed with his arms pinioned 
on a bare-backed pony. The saddle of the pony I had 
been thrown upon is worthy of description. It was in 

128 



THOSE AWFUL SPIKES 

reality the wooden frame of a very high-backed saddle, 
from the back of which some five sharp iron spikes stuck 
out horizontally. As I sat on this implement of torture, 
the spikes caught me in the small of my back. 

My guard having been augmented by twenty or thirty 
mounted men with muskets and swords v we set off at a 









* 






" SIR, SIR, I AM DYING 



furious pace. A horseman riding in front of me led my 
pony by means of a cord, as my hands were manacled 
behind my back; and thus we travelled across country for 
miles. 

But for those awful spikes in the saddle, the ride would 
not have been so very bad, for the pony I rode was a fine 
spirited animal, and the country around was curious and 
interesting. We proceeded along an apparently endless 
succession of yellow sand-hills, some of them as high as 
two or three hundred feet, others not more than twenty or 
thirty. The sand seemed to have been deposited more by 

129 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 






wind than by water, though it is also possible that the 
whole basin, not very high above the level of the huge 
stream, may at some time have been altogether under 
water. The whole space between the mountain-range to 
the north of the Brahmaputra and the river itself was cov- 
ered with these sand -mounds, except in certain places 
where the soil was extremely marshy, and where our 
ponies sank in deep soft mud. We splashed across sev- 




II 



SPIKED SADDLE 



eral rivulets and skirted a number of ponds. From the 
summit of a hill to which they led me I could see that 
the hills were of much greater circumference and height 
near the river edge, becoming smaller and smaller as they 
approached the mountain - range to the north. More- 
over, they increased in number and size the farther we 
went in an easterly direction. 

The circumstances under which I was now travelling 
did not permit me to ascertain the quality of the sand, or 
make any accurate investigations as to where the sand 
came from, but a glance at the country all round made 

130 



MORE HORSEMEN 

me feel sure that the sand had been conveyed there from 
the south. This one could plainly see from depressions 
and wavelike undulations, showing that it had travelled 
(roughly) in a northerly direction ; and although, having 
been unable to ascertain this for a fact, I do not wish to 
be too certain with regard to the movements and sources 
of these sand deposits, I was pretty firmly convinced that 
the sand had been deposited there by the wind, which had 
carried it over the Himahlyan chain from the plains of 
India. 

My guard scoured the country from the high point of 
vantage to which we had ascended. Away in the distance, 
to the east, we saw a large number of horsemen raising 
clouds of dust ; and riding down the hill, the ponies sink- 
ing in the soft sand, we set off in the direction of the new- 
comers, the surface at the bottom of the hill being more 
compact and harder. 



CHAPTER LXXXIII 

AT AN UNPLEASANT PACE — DRAWING NEAR THE CAVALCADE— A PICT- 
URESQUE SIGHT — A SHOT FIRED AT ME — TERRIBLE EFFECTS OF THE 
SPIKES ALONG MY SPINE — THE ROPE BREAKS — AN ILL OMEN — A SEC- 
OND SHOT MISSES ME — ARROWS — THE END OF MY TERRIBLE RIDE 

We travelled mile after mile at an unpleasant pace, 
until we arrived at a spot where, drawn up in a line, was 
the cavalcade we had seen from the summit of the hill. 
It was a beautiful sight as we approached it, though the 
pain which I was undergoing rather detracted from the 
pleasure I should otherwise have taken in the picturesque 
scene. There were about a hundred red Lamas in the 
centre, with bannermen whose heads were covered by 
peculiar flat fluffy hats, and the same number of soldiers 
and officers in their gray, red, and black tunics ; some two 
hundred horsemen in all. 

The Pombo, in his yellow coat and trousers and his 
queer pointed hat, sat on a magnificent pony a little in 
front of the crowd of Lamas and soldiers. 

Curiously enough, when close to this new crowd, the 
horseman who led my pony let go the rope, and the pony 
was lashed cruelly and left to its own devices. The sol- 
diers of my guard reined up and drew aside. The pony 
dashed off in the direction of the Pombo, and as I passed 
close to him a man named Nerba (private secretary of 
the Tokchim Tarjum) knelt down, and, taking aim with 
his matchlock resting on its prop, deliberately fired a shot 
at me. 

Although (I learned afterwards) this Nerba was one of 

132 



A NARROW ESCAPE 

the champion shots in the country, and the distance from 
the muzzle of his matchlock to me not more than four 
yards, the bullet missed me, whizzing past my left ear. 
Probably the speed at which my animal was proceeding 
saved me, as the marksman could not take a very steady 
aim ; but my pony, startled at the sudden report of the 
matchlock at such close quarters, took fright, and began 




NERBA FIRING AT ME 



rearing and plunging. I managed to maintain my seat, 
though the spikes in the saddle were lacerating the lower 
part of my spine terribly. 

Several horsemen now rode up and captured my pony, 
and preparations were made for another exciting number 
in the programme of my tortures. In their way these 
noble Lamas were of a sporting nature, but I swore to 
myself that, no matter what they did to me, I would not 
give them the satisfaction of seeing that they were hurt- 
ing me. Acting on this principle, I pretended not to feel 

133 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the effect of the spikes tearing the flesh off my backbone ; 
and when they led me before the Pombo to show him how 
covered with blood I was, I expressed satisfaction at rid- 
ing such an excellent pony. This seemed to puzzle 
them. 

A cord of yak's hair, about forty or fifty yards long, was 
now produced, the swivel attached to one end of- it fast- 
ened to my handcuffs, and the other end held by a horse- 
man. We set off again on our wild career, this time fol- 
lowed not only by the guard, but by the Pombo and all 
his men. Once or twice I could not help turning round 
to see what they were about. The cavalcade was a weird 
and picturesque sight, the riders — with their many-colored 
dresses, their matchlocks with red flags, their jewelled 
swords, their banners with long ribbons of all colors flying 
in the wind — -all galloping furiously, shouting, yelling, and 
hissing, amidst a deafening din of thousands of horse-bells. 

In order to accelerate our speed, a horseman rode by 
my side lashing my pony to make it go its hardest. 
Meanwhile the horseman who held the cord did his ut- 
most to pull me out of the saddle, no doubt in the hope 
of seeing me trampled to death by the cohort behind me. 
As I leaned my body forward so as to maintain my seat, 
and with my arms pulled violently backwards by the rope, 
the flesh was rubbed off my hands and knuckles by the 
chain of the handcuffs. In places the bone was exposed ; 
and, of course, every tug brought me into forcible contact 
with the spikes and inflicted deeper wounds. The cord, 
though strong, eventually and unexpectedly gave way. 
The soldier who was pulling at the other end was clum- 
sily unhorsed, and I myself was all but thrown by the un- 
expected jerk. This ludicrous incident at first provoked 
mirth among my escort, a mirth which their superstitious 
minds immediately turned into an ill omen. 

134 



2 
5 

o 



C/3 

2 

pj 





V 



ATTEMPTS TO KILL ME 

When my pony was stopped, as well as the runaway 
steed of the dismounted cavalier, I took advantage of 
their fears, and assured them once more that whatever 
harm they tried to do me would go against themselves. 
However, the cord was retied with sundry strong knots, 
and, after an interruption of a few minutes, we resumed 
our breakneck gallop, I being again sent on in front. 

Towards the end of our journey we had to go round 
the curve of a sand-hill, the track between this and a large 




COAT I WORE AT THE TIME OF MY CAPTURE, AND SHOWING 
EFFECT OF SPIKES 



pond at its foot being very narrow. At this point I saw 
in front of me a soldier posted in ambush, with his match- 
lock ready to fire. The pony sank deep in the sand, and 
could not travel fast here, which, I suppose, was the rea- 
son why this spot had been selected. The man fired as 
I passed only a few paces from him ; but, as luck would 
have it, this second attempt also left me untouched. 

Getting clear of the soft sand, and finding harder 
ground, we resumed our headlong career. Several ar- 
rows were shot at me from behind ; but, though some 
passed very near, not one struck me ; and thus, after an 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

interminable ride, full of incident and excitement we ar- 
rived, towards sunset, at our destination. 

On the crown of a hill stood a fortress and larore 
lamasery, and at its foot, in front of another large struct- 
ure, the Pombo's gaudy tent had been pitched. The 
name of this place, as far as I could afterwards ascertain, 
was Namj Lacce Galshio or Gyatsho, 



CHAPTER LXXXIV 

INTENSE PAIN — HUSTLED TO THE EXECUTION - GROUND— STRETCHED 
AND TIED — THIRSTING FOR BLOOD — A PARADE OF TORTURING AP- 
PLIANCES — THE MUSIC — THE TARAM 

Two or three men tore me roughly off the saddle. 
The pain in my spine caused by the spikes was intense. 
I asked for a moment's rest. My captors, however, re- 
fused, and, roughly thrusting me forward, said that I 
would be beheaded in an instant. All the people round 
jeered and made signs to me that my head would be cut 
off, and insults of all kinds were showered upon me by 
the crowd of Lamas and soldiers. I was hustled to the 
execution-ground, which lay to the left front of the tent. 
On the ground was a long log of wood in the shape of a 
prism. Upon the sharp edge of this I was made to 
stand, and several men held me by the body while four or 
five others, using their combined strength, stretched my 
legs as w 7 ide apart as they could go. Fixed in this pain- 
ful position, the brutes securely tied me by my feet to the 
log of wood with cords of yak-hair. Several men were 
Tnade to pull these cords, and they were so tight that 
they cut grooves into my skin and flesh in several places 
round my ankles and on my feet, many of the cuts* being 
as much as three inches long. 

When I was thus firmly bound, one ruffian, the man 
Nerba, whom I have mentioned before as having fired a 

* Measured some weeks later by Dr. Wilson. 
137 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

shot at me, came forward and seized me from behind by 
the hair of my head. My hair was long, as it had not 
been cut for over five months. 

The spectacle before me was overwhelming. By the 
Pombo's tent stood in a row the most villanous brutes I 
have ever set eyes upon. One, a powerful, repulsive indi- 
vidual, held in his hand a great knobbed mallet used for 







A DISPLAY OF VARIOUS INSTRUMENTS OF TORTURE 



fracturing bones; another carried a bow and arrows ; a 
third held a big two-handed sword ; while others made a 
display of various ghastly instruments of torture. The 
crowd, thirsting for my blood, formed up in a semicircle, 
leaving room for me to see the parade of torture imple- 
ments that awaited me ; and, as my eyes roamed from 
one figure to the other, the several Lamas shook their 
various implements to show that they were preparing for 
action. 

A group of three Lamas stood at the entrance of the 
tent. They were the musicians. One held a gigantic 

138 







A BANNERMAN 



THE TARAM 

horn which, when blown, emitted hoarse, thundering 
sounds, and his companions had one a drum and the other 
cymbals. Another fellow some distance away continual- 
ly sounded a huge gong. From the moment I was made 




>t$Vi* «*>*$--* 



LAMA MUSICIANS 



to dismount the deafening sounds of this diabolical trio 
echoed all through the valley, and added to the horror of 
the scene. 

An iron bar with a handle of wood bound in red cloth 
was being made red hot in a brasier. The Pombo, who 
had again placed something in his mouth to produce 
artificial foaming at the lips, and so to show his temper, 
worked himself up into a frenzy. A Lama handed him 
the implement of torture (the Taram), now red hot, and 
the Pombo seized it by the handle. 

" Ngaghi kiu meh taxon /" (We will burn out your 
eyes !) cried a chorus of Lamas. 

The Pombo strode up to me, brandishing the ghastly 
36 139 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

implement. I stared at him, but he kept his eyes away 
from me. He seemed reluctant, but the Lamas around 
him urged him on, lifting the man's arm towards me ! 

" You have come to this country to see " (alluding to 
what I had stated the previous day— viz., that I was a travel- 
ler and pilgrim, and had only come to see the 
country). " This, then, is the punishment for 
you !" and with these dreadful words the Pom- 
bo raised his arm and placed the red-hot iron 
bar parallel to, and about an inch or two from, 
my eyeballs, and all but touching my nose. 

Instinctively I kept my eyes tightly closed, 
but the heat was so intense that it seemed as 
if my eyes, the left one especially, were being 
desiccated and my nose scorched. 

Though the time seemed interminable, I do 
not think that the heated bar was before my 
eyes actually longer than thirty seconds or so. 
Yet it was quite long enough, for, when I lifted 
my aching eyelids, I saw everything as in a 
the taram red mist. My left eye was frightfully painful, 
and every few seconds it seemed as if some- 
thing in front of it obscured its vision. With the right 
eye I could still see fairly well, except that everything, 
as I have said, looked red instead of its usual color. 
The hot iron had been thrown down and was frizzling 
on the wet ground a few paces from me. 



CHAPTER LXXXV 

BLEEDING ALL OVER— INSULTED AND SPAT UPON— " KILL HIM !" — URG- 
ING ON THE EXECUTIONER — REFUSAL TO STOOP— AN UNPLEASANT 
SWORD EXERCISE— THE EXECUTION SUSPENDED 

My position as I stood with my legs wide apart, with 
my back, hands, and legs bleeding, and seeing everything 
of a ghastly red tinge ; amidst the deafening, maddening 
noise of gong, drum, cymbals, and horn ; insulted, spat 
upon by the crowd, and with Nerba holding me so tight 
by my hair as to tear handfuls of it from my scalp, was 
one in which I cannot wish even my bitterest enemies to 
find themselves. All I was able to do was to remain calm 
and composed and to watch with apparent unconcern the 
preparations for the next sufferings to be inflicted upon 
me. 

" Miumta nani sekkoT (Kill him with a rifle!) shouted 
a hoarse voice. 

A matchlock was now being loaded by a soldier, and 
such was the quantity of gunpowder they placed in the 
barrel that I made sure whoever fired it would have his 
head blown off ; so it was with a certain amount of satis- 
faction that I saw it handed over to the Pombo. That 
official placed the weapon against my forehead, with the 
muzzle pointing upward. Then a soldier, leaning down, 
applied fire to the fuse and eventually there was a loud re- 
port which gave my head a severe shock, and the over- 
loaded matchlock flew clean out of the Pombo's hand, 
much to everybody's surprise. I forced myself to laugh ; 

Hi 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

and their confusion, added to the tantalizing failure of 
every attempt they made to hurt me, drove the crowd to 
the highest pitch of fury. 

" Ta kossaton, ta kossaton /" (Kill him, kill him !), ex- 
claimed fierce voices all round me. " Ngala mangbo 
shidak majidan /" (We cannot frighten him !) " Ta kos- 
saton, ta kossaton /" (Kill him, kill him !), the whole val- 
ley resounding with their ferocious cries. 

A huge two-handed sword was now handed to the 
Pombo, who drew it out of its sheath. 

" Kill him, kill him !" shouted the mob once more, urg- 
ing on the executioner, who, his superstitious nature not 
having overcome the ill-omened fact that the matchlock a 
moment before had jumped out of his hand (which he prob- 
ably attributed to the doing of some supreme power and 
not to the overcharge), seemed quite reluctant to come 
forward. 

I seized this moment to say that they might kill me if 
they wished, but that, if I died to-day, they would all die 
to-morrow — an undeniable fact, for we are all bound to die 
some day. This seemed to cool them for a moment, but 
the excitement in the crowd w r as too great, and at last 
they succeeded in working the Pombo up into a passion. 
His face became quite unrecognizable, such was his excite- 
ment, and he behaved like a madman. 

At this point a Lama approached and slipped some- 
thing into the mouth of the executioner, who again foamed 
at the lips. A Lama held his sword, while he turned up 
one sleeve of his coat to have his arms free, and the 
Lamas turned up the other for him. Then he strode tow- 
ards me with slow, ponderous steps, swinging the shiny, 
sharp blade from side to side before him, with his bare 
arms out-stretched. 

The man Nerba, who was still holding me by the hair, 

142 



SWORD EXERCISE 

was told to make me bend my neck. I resisted with what 
little strength I had left, and, with the nervous strain of 
a doomed man, determined to keep my head erect and 
my forehead high. They might kill me, true enough, they 
might hack me to pieces if they chose, but never until I 
had lost my last atom of strength would these ruffians 





THE EXECUTIONER BROUGHT THE SWORD DOWN TO MY NECK 



make me stoop before them. I should perish, but it 
would be looking down upon the Pombo and his country- 
men. 

The executioner, now close to me, held the sword with 
his nervous hands, lifting it high above his shoulder. He 
then brought it down to my neck, which he touched with 
the blade, to measure the distance, as it were, for a clean 
effective stroke. Then, drawing back a step, he quickly 
raised the sword again and struck a blow at me with all 
his might. The sword passed disagreeably close to my 
neck, but did not touch me. I would not flinch, nor 

H3 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

speak, and my demeanor seemed to impress him almost 
to the point of frightening him. He became reluctant to 
continue his diabolical performance ; but the impatience 
and turbulence of the crowd were at their highest, and the 
Lamas nearer to him gesticulated like madmen and urged 
him on again. 

As I write this, their wild shouts, their bloodthirsty 
countenances, are vividly brought before me. Apparently 
against his will, the executioner went through the same 
kind of performance on the other side of my head. This 
time the blade passed so near that the point cannot have 
been more than half an inch or so from my neck. 

It seemed as if all would soon be over; yet, strange to 
say, even at this culminating moment I did not seriously 
realize that I should die. Why this was so I cannot say, 
because everything pointed towards my end being very 
near ; but I had a feeling all the time that I should live to 
see the end of it all. I was very sorry, if my end were 
really at hand, as it seemed likely, that I should die with- 
out seeing my parents and friends again, and that they 
probably would never know how and where I had died. 
One is naturally at all times reluctant to leave a world in 
which one has barely had a dull moment, but, after all my 
wretched experiences, sufferings, and excitement, I did not 
realize my peril so much as I should have done had I, for 
instance, been dragged from my comfortable London flat 
direct onto the execution-ground, instead of first having 
lived through the recent past. 

Naturally the scene is one that I am not likely to for- 
get, and I must say for the Tibetans that the whole affair 
was very picturesquely carried out. Even the ghastliest 
ceremonies may have their artistic side, and this particular 
one, performed with extra pomp and flourish, was really 
impressive. 

144 



THE EXECUTION SUSPENDED 

It appears that the unpleasant sword exercise is some- 
times gone through in Tibet previous to actually cutting 
off the head, so as to make the victim suffer more before 
the final blow is given. I was not aware of this at the 
time, and only learned it some weeks after. It is usually 
at the third stroke that the victim is actually beheaded. 

The Lamas were still clamoring for my head, but the 
Pombo made a firm stand this time, and declined to go 
on with the execution. They collected round him and 
seemed very angry ; they shouted and yelled and gesticu- 
lated in the wildest fashion ; and still the Pombo kept his 
eyes upon me in a half-respectful, half-frightened manner, 
and refused to move. 



CHAPTER LXXXVI 

MANSING ARRIVES— A PRETENCE OF KILLING HIM— OUR EXECUTION 
POSTPONED — FED BY THE LAMAS 

An excited consultation followed, during which, in the 
midst of this scene of barbarity, my coolie Mansing ar- 
rived. He had fallen off his bare-back pony many times, 
and had been left far behind. The man who held my 
hair now relinquished his grasp, while another pushed me 
violently from in front, causing me to fall heavily back- 
ward, and putting a painful strain on all the tendons of 
my legs. Mansing, bruised and aching all over, was 
brought forward and tied by his legs to the same log of 
wood to which I was fastened. They informed me that 
they would kill my coolie first, and one brutal Lama 
seized him roughly by the throat I was pushed up in a 
sitting posture, and a cloth was thrown over my head and 
face, so that I could not see what was being done. I 
heard poor Mansing groan pitifully, then there was a dead 
silence. I called him, I received no answer; so I con- 
cluded that he had been despatched. I was left in this 
terrible suspense for over a quarter of an hour, when at 
last they removed the cloth from over my head, and I be- 
held my coolie lying before me, bound to the log and 
almost unconscious, but, thank God, still alive. He told 
me that, when I had called him, a Lama had placed his 
hand upon his mouth to prevent him from answering, 
while, with the other hand, he had squeezed his neck so 
tightly as to nearly strangle him. After a while Mansing 

146 



APPLICATION FOR FOOD 

got better, and the coolness and bravery of the poor 
wretch during these terrible trials were really marvellous. 

We w r ere told that our execution was only postponed 
till the next day, in order that we might be tortured until 
the time came for us to be brought out to death. 

A number of Lamas and soldiers stood round jeering 
at us. I seized the opportunity this respite afforded to 
hail a swaggering Lama and ask him for some refresh- 
ment. 

" Orcheh, orchek nga dappa tugu duh, chuen deh, dang, 
yak, guram, tcha, tsamba pin !" (I am very hungry, please 
give me some rice, yak meat, ghur, tea, and oatmeal!) I 
asked in my best Tibetan. 

"Hum murr, Maharaj a !" (I want butter, your Majesty!) 
put in Mansing, half in Hindustani and half in the Tib- 
etan language. 

This natural application for food seemed to afford in- 
tense amusement to our torturers, who had formed a ring 
round us, and laughed at our appeal, while Mansing and 
I, both of us famished, were left sitting bound in a most 
painful position. 

The day had now waned, and our torturers did not fail 
to constantly remind us that the following day our heads 
would be severed from our bodies, which I told them 
would cause us no pain, for if they gave us no food we 
should be dead of starvation by then. 

Whether they realized that this might be the case, or 
whether some other reasons moved them, I cannot say ; 
but several of the Lamas, who had been most brutal, in- 
cluding one who had the previous day taken a part in 
Chanden Sing's flogging, now became quite polite and 
treated us with a surprising amount of deference. Two 
Lamas were despatched to the monastery, and returned 
after some time with bags of tsamba and a large raksang 

H7 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

of boiling tea. I have hardly ever enjoyed a meal more, 
though the Lamas stuffed the food down my throat with 
their unwashed fingers so fast that they nearly choked 
me. 

" Eat, eat as much as you can," said they, grimly, " for 
it may be your last meal." 

And eat I did, and washed the tsamba down with quan- 
tities of buttered tea, which they poured into my mouth 
carelessly out of the raksang. 

Mansing, whose religion did not allow him to eat food 
touched by folk of a different caste, was eventually per- 
mitted to lick the meal out of the wooden bowl. I my- 
self was none too proud to take the food in any way it 
might be offered, and when my humble, " Orcheh, orchek 
tchuen mangbo terokchi" (Please give me some more) met 
with the disapproval of the Lamas, and brought out the 
everlasting negative, " Middu, middu" I was still too hun- 
gry to waste any of the precious food : so the Tibetans 
revolved the wooden bowl round and round my mouth, 
and I licked it as clean as if it had never been used. 



CHAPTER LXXXVII 

HAPPINESS CHECKED— STRETCHED ON THE RACK — MANSTNG SHARES MY 
FATE — DRENCHED AND IN RAGS— AN UNSOLVED MYSTERY 

After all the excitement of the day, we were beginning 
to feel a little restored and much relieved at being treated 
rather less roughly, were it only for a few moments, when, 
small as it was, the improvement in our condition was 
checked. 

A Lama came from the monastery and gave orders 
right and left, and the place was again in commotion. 
We were pounced upon and roughly seized, and my legs 
were quickly untied, a number of men holding me down 
the while. Again they lifted me until I stood upright on 
the cutting edge of the prismatic log : two men seized 
one leg and two the other, and stretched them apart as 
far as they could possibly go. Then rope after rope was 
wound round my feet and ankles, and I was made fast as 
before to the log. 

As my legs were much farther apart this time, the pain 
in the muscles of my legs when they proceeded to knock 
me down backward was even greater than it had been on 
the previous occasion. But before I had time to feel it 
in full, the Lamas, now as ferocious as I had seen them at 
first, dragged my manacled arms backward from under 
my body and tied a rope to the chain of the handcuffs. 
This done, they passed the rope through a hole in the 
top of a high post behind me, and by tugging at it, 
strained my arms upward in a way that, had I been less 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

supple, would certainly have broken them. When all 
their strength combined could not stretch me another 
inch without tearing my body to pieces, they made the 
rope fast, and I remained half suspended, and feeling as 
if all the bones of my limbs were getting, or had got, 
pulled out of their sockets. The weight of the body 
naturally tending to settle down would, I felt, every mo- 
ment increase the suffering of this terrible torture, which 
was really a primitive form of the rack. 

Mansing was likewise suspended on the other side, his 
feet remaining tied to the log to which my own were 
fastened, only not quite so wide apart. 

The pain was at first intense, the tendons of the legs 
and arms being dreadfully strained, and the spinal column 
bent so as nearly to be broken in two. The shoulder- 
blades, forced into close contact, pressed the vertebrae in- 
ward, and caused excruciating pains along the lumbar 
vertebrae, where the strain was greatest. 

As if this were not sufficient, a cord was tied from 
Mansing's neck to mine, the object of which was to keep 
our necks stretched in a most uncomfortable position. 

It began to rain heavily, and we were left out in the 
open. The rags to which our clothes had been reduced 
in our struggle when we were first seized were drenched. 
Half naked and wounded, we were alternately numbed 
with cold and burning with fever. A guard encircled us, 
having with them two watch -dogs tied to pegs. The 
soldiers were apparently so confident of our inability to 
escape that they drew their heavy blankets over their 
heads and slept. One of them in his slumber moved and 
pushed his sword outside the blanket in which he had 
now rolled himself tight. This inspired me with the idea 
of attempting to escape. 

Two or three hours later it had become very dark. 

150 



ON THE RACK 

Thanks to the extremely supple nature of my hands, I 
succeeded in drawing the right hand out of my handcuffs, 
and, after an hour or so of stealthy and anxious work I 
managed to unloose the cord that bound Mansing's feet. 
Then I whispered to him to get up slowly and to push 
the sword towards me with his foot until I could reach it. 







THUS ELAPSED TWENTY-FOUR TERRIBLE HOURS 



If successful in this, I could soon cut my bonds and those 
fastening Mansing's hands, and with a weapon in our pos- 
session we w r ould make a bold dash for liberty. 

Mansing, however, was not a champion of agility. In 
his joy at feeling partly free, the poor coolie moved his 
stiff legs clumsily. The vigilant watch -dogs detected 
this, and gave the alarm by barking. The guards were 
up in a moment, and, timid as they always were, they all 
hurriedly left us, and went to fetch lights to examine our 
bonds. 

In the meanwhile, protected by the darkness of the 

151 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

stormy night, I had succeeded in replacing my hand in- 
side the iron handcuff. Putting it back was more diffi- 
cult than drawing it out, but I had just time to effect my 
purpose. The men who had gone to the monastery re- 
turned with lights. I pretended to be fast asleep: a 
likely thing with every bone in my body feeling as if it 
were disjointed, every limb numbed and frozen, every 
tendon and ligament so strained as to drive me mad with 
pain ! 

The Tibetans found the bonds round Mansing s feet 
undone. They examined my hands and saw them just as 
they had left them. They inspected my feet. The ropes 
were still there, cutting into my flesh. They inspected 
Mansing's hands, only to find them still fastened to the 
post behind him. 

The Tibetans were so puzzled at this mysterious occur- 
rence that they positively got frightened. They began 
to shout excitedly, calling for help. In a moment, the 
alarm having been given, a crowd of men rushed at us, 
and, with their swords drawn, surrounded us. One man, 
braver than the rest, gave Mansing a few cuts with a 
whip, warning us that if the ropes were found undone 
again they would decapitate us there and then. The 
coolie was again bound, this time more tightly than ever. 



CHAPTER LXXXVIII 

MANSING PARTIALLY UNTIED AFTER TWELVE HOURS ON THE RACK- 
NUMBED— HOW THE BRAIN WORKS UNDER SUCH CIRCUMSTANCES— 
MY SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTS — THE END OF MY PHOTOGRAPHIC 
PLATES — A PAINT-BOX ACCUSED OF OCCULT POWERS — AN OFFER RE- 
FUSED—COURTESY AND CRUELTY COMBINED 

By way of precaution, a light was set between Mansing 
and myself, and, as it was still raining hard, the Tibetans 
placed a canvas shelter over us to prevent the light from 
being extinguished. At about six or seven in the morn- 
ing Mansing's feet were untied, but not his hands. I was 
left in the same uncomfortable and painful posture. The 
hours passed very slowly and wearily. My legs, my arms, 
and hands had gradually become quite lifeless, and after 
the first six or seven hours that I had been stretched 
on the rack, I felt no more actual pain. The numbness 
crept along every limb of my body, until I had now the 
peculiar sensation of possessing a living head on a dead 
body. 

It is indeed remarkable how one's brain keeps alive and 
working well under such circumstances, apparently un- 
affected by the temporary mortification of the remainder 
of the system. 

The day now dawning was one full of strange incidents. 
When the sun was high in the sky, the Pombo, with a 
great number of Lamas, rode down from the monastery, 
though the distance was very short. He went to his tent, 
and presently my cases of scientific instruments were 
brought outside and opened, the soldiers and Lamas dis- 

153 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

playing an amusing mixture of curiosity and caution over 
everything they touched. I had to explain the use of 
each instrument, a difficult matter indeed, considering 
their ignorance and my limited knowledge of Tibetan, 
which did not allow of my delivering scientific addresses. 
The sextant was looked upon with great suspicion, and 
even more so the hypsometrical apparatus, with its ther- 
mometers in brass tubes, which they took to be some sort 
of firearm. Then came a lot of undeveloped photographic 
plates, box after box of which they opened in broad day- 
light, destroying in a few moments all the valuable nega- 
tives that I had taken since leaving Mansarowar. The 
Pombo, more observant than the others, noticed that the 
plates turned a yellowish color on being exposed to the 
light. 

" Why is that ?" asked he. 

" It is a sign that you will suffer for what you are doing 
to me." 

The Pombo flung away the plate, and was much upset. 
He ordered a hole to be dug in the ground some way off, 
and the plates to be instantly buried. The soldiers, how- 
ever, who had been intrusted with the order, seemed loth 
to touch the plates, and they had to be reprimanded and 
beaten by the Lamas before they would obey. At last, 
with their feet, they shoved the boxes of negatives to a 
spot some distance off, where, in dog fashion, they dug a 
deep hole with their hands in the muddy ground; and 
there, alas ! I saw my work of several weeks covered for- 
ever with earth. 

Now came my paint-box with its cakes of water-colors. 

" What do you do with these ?" cried an angry Lama, 
pointing at the harmless colors. 

" I paint pictures." 

" No, you are lying. With the ' yellow ' you find where 

154 



MY PAINT-BOX 

gold is in the country, and with the ' blue ? you discover 
where malachite is." 

I assured them that this was not the case, and told them 
that if they would untie me I would, on recovering the 
use of my arms, paint a picture before them. 

They prudently preferred to leave me tied up. 

Their whole attention was now drawn to a considerable 
sum in silver and gold which they found in the cases, and 
the Pombo warned the people that not one coin must be 
stolen. 

I took this chance to make an offering of 500 rupees to 
the Lamasery, and told the Pombo that I would like him 
to accept as a gift my Martini-Henry, which I had noticed 
rather took his fancy. 

Both gifts were refused, as they said the Lamasery was 
very wealthy and the Pombo's position as an official did 
not allow him to carry a rifle. The Pombo, nevertheless, 
was quite touched by the offer, and came personally to 
thank me. 

In a way the rascals were gentlemanly enough in their 

manner, and I could not help admiring their mixture of 

courtesy and cruelty, either of which they could switch on 

at a moment's notice without regard to the other. 
37 



CHAPTER LXXXIX 

AN UNKNOWN ARTICLE IN TIBET — MY SPONGE BEWITCHED — A LAMA 
FIRES MY MARTINI-HENRY — THE RIFLE BURSTS 

They had now reached the bottom of the water-tight 
case, and the Pombo drew out with much suspicion a 
curious flattened object. 

" What is that ?" inquired he, as usual lifting the article 
up in the air. 

My sight had been so injured that I could not clearly 
discern what it was ; but on their waving it in front of my 
nose, I recognized it to be my long mislaid bath-sponge, 
dry and flattened, which Chanden Sing, with his usual 
ability for packing, had stored away at the bottom of the 
case, piling upon it the heavy cases of photographic plates. 
The sponge, a very large one, was now reduced to the 
thickness of less than an inch, owing to the weight that 
had for weeks lain upon it. 

The Tibetans were greatly puzzled at this new discov- 
ery, which they said resembled tinder ; and it was touched 
with much caution, for some of the Lamas said it might 
explode. 

When their curiosity was appeased, they took it and 
threw it away. It fell near me in a small pool of water. 
This was a golden opportunity to frighten my jailers, and 
I addressed the sponge in English, and with any word 
that came into my mouth, pretending to utter incanta- 
tions. The attention of the Lamas and soldiers was nat- 
urally quickly drawn to this unusual behavior on my part ; 

156 



WITCHCRAFT 

and they could not conceal their terror when, as I spoke 
louder and louder to the sponge, it gradually swelled to 
its normal size with the moisture it absorbed. 

The Tibetans, who at first could hardly believe their 
eyes at this incomprehensible occurrence, became so 
panic-stricken at what they believed to be an exhibi- 
tion of my occult powers, that there was a general stam- 
pede in every direction. 

In a way, all this was entertaining, and anyhow it 




BELT, WITH BULLET AND POWDER POUCHES, DAGGER, 
NEEDLE-CASE, AND FLINT AND STEEL 

served to pass away the time. The most amusing scene 
that afternoon was, however, still to come. 

After a time the Lamas screwed up their courage, and 
returned to where my baggage had been overhauled. 
One of them picked up my Martini-Henry, and the others 
urged him to fire it off. He came to me, and when I 
had explained to him how to load it, he took a cartridge 
and placed it in the breech, but would insist on not 
closing the bolt firmly home. When I warned him of 
the consequences, he struck me over the head with the 
butt of the rifle. 

It is the fashion, when aiming with one of their match- 
locks, which have a prop attached to them, to place the 

i57 ■ 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

butt in front of the nose instead of holding it firmly to the 
shoulder as we do. So the Lama aimed in this fashion at 
one of my yaks peacefully grazing some thirty yards off. 
While everybody watched anxiously to see the results of 
this marksman's shooting, he pulled the trigger ; the rifle 
went off with an extra loud report, and behold ! the muz- 
zle of the Martini burst and the violent recoil gave the 
Lama a fearful blow in the face. The rifle, flying out 
of his hands, described a somersault in the air, and the 



MARTINI-HENRY EXPLODED 



Lama fell backward to the ground, where he remained 
spread out flat, bleeding all over and screaming like a 
child. His nose was squashed, one eye had been put out, 
and his teeth shattered. 

Whether the rifle burst because the bolt had not been 
properly closed, or because mud had got into the muzzle 
as well, I could not say ; but I give here a photograph of 
the broken weapon, which the Tibetans returned to me 
several months later through the Government of India. 

The injured Lama, I may say, was the one at the head 
of the party that wanted to have my head cut off, so 
that, naturally enough, I could not help betraying my 
satisfaction at the accident. I was glad they had let me 
live another day, were it only to see his self-inflicted pun- 
ishment. 

158 



CHAPTER XC 

A CONSULTATION — UNTIED FROM THE RACK — THE MOST TERRIBLE 
TWENTY-FOUR HOURS OF MY LIFE — I LOSE THE USE OF MY FEET — 
CIRCULATION RETURNING— INTENSE PAIN — SPORTS 

The Pombo, who had been, during the greater part of 
the afternoon, looking at me with an air of mingled pity 
and respect, as though he had been forced against his 
will. to treat me so brutally, could not help joining in 
my laughter at the Lamas .sorrowful plight. In a way, 
I believe he was rather glad that the accident had hap- 
pened ; for, if he had until then been uncertain whether 
to kill me or not, he felt, after what bad occurred, that 
it was not prudent to attempt it. The gold ring w r hich 
had been taken from me on the day of our arrest, and 
for which I had asked many times, as it had been given 
by my mother, was regarded as possessing miraculous 
powers as long as it was upon me ; and was therefore 
kept well away from me, for fear that, with its help, I 
might break my bonds and escape. The Pombo, the 
Lamas and officers held another consultation, at the end 
of which, towards sunset, several soldiers came and 
loosed my legs from the stretching log; and my hands, 
though still manacled, were lowered from the pillar 
behind. 

As the ropes round my ankles were unwound from 
the deep channels they had cut into my flesh, large 
patches of skin came away, with them. Thus ended the 
most terrible twenty -four hours I have ever passed in 
my lifetime. 

159 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

I felt very little relief at first as I lay flat on the 
ground, for my body and legs were stiff and as if dead ; 
and as time went by and I saw no signs of their com- 
ing back to life, I feared that mortification had set in, 
and that I had lost the use of my feet for good. It 
was two or three hours before the blood began to cir- 
culate in my right foot, and the pain when it did so 
was intense. Had a handful of knives been passed 
slowly down the inside of my leg the agony could not 
have been more excruciating. My arms were not quite 
so bad : they also were numbed, but the circulation was 
more quickly re-established. 

In the meanwhile the Pombo, whether to amuse me or 
to show off his riches, ordered about one hundred ponies, 
some with magnificent harness, to be brought up ; and 
mounting the finest, and holding in his hand that dread- 
ful taram, rode round the hill on which the monastery 
and fort stood. 

On returning, he harangued his men and a series of 
sports began, the Pombo seating himself near me and 
watching me intently to see how I was enjoying the per- 
formance. First of all the best marksmen were select- 
ed, and with their matchlocks fired one after the other 
at my two poor yaks, only a few yards off ; but al- 
though they aimed carefully and deliberately, they did 
not succeed in hitting them. I knew that they fired 
with bullets, for I could hear the hissing sound the 
missiles made. 

Next came a display of fine horsemanship, which was 
very interesting. I should have enjoyed it more if I 
had not been suffering agonies all the time. Still, the 
performance helped to cheer me. First there were races 
in which only two ponies at a time took part, the last 
race being run between the two winners of the last 

1 60 



SPORTS 

heats, and a kata was presented to the victor. Next 
one horseman rode ahead at full gallop flying a kata, 
while some twenty others followed closely behind. The 
kata was left to fly by itself, and when it settled on the 
ground, the horsemen following the first rode some dis- 
tance away, and, at a given signal, galloped back wildly, 
all converging towards the spot, and, bending down from 
their ponies, attempted to pick up the kata without dis- 
mounting. Some of the younger men were very clever 
at this. 

Another exercise consisted in one man on foot standing 
still, while a mounted comrade rode at full gallop towards 
him, seized him by his clothes, and lifted him on to the 
saddle. 

Though I could not see as well as I wished, I got so in- 
terested in the show, and expressed such admiration for 
the ponies, that the Pombo, becoming quite thoughtful 
and polite, ordered the best of them to be brought before 
me, and had me lifted into a sitting posture, so that I 
could see them better. 



CHAPTER XCI 

A GREAT RELIEF— THE POMBO'S ATTENTIONS — A WEIRD HYPNOTIC 

DANCE 

This was a great relief, for I was suffering more from 
my humiliating position, being unable to stand, than from 
the tortures themselves. The Pombo told me that I must 
now look towards the tent, and then got up and walked 
towards it. 

The opening of the tent was over twenty feet long. 
Some soldiers came and dragged me close to the front of 
it, so that I could witness all that went on. 

Two big Lamas entered the tent with the Pombo, and 
a number of other people who were .inside were turned 
out. They closed the tent for a few minutes, and then 
opened it again. In the mean time a gong summoned the 
Lamas of the monastery to come down, and, a few min- 
utes later, a string of them came and took their places in- 
side the tent. 

The Pombo, in his yellow coat and trousers and four- 
cornered hat, sat on a kind of high-backed chair in the 
centre of the tent, and by his side stood the two Lamas 
who had first entered it with him. The Pombo was be- 
yond doubt in a hypnotic trance. He sat motionless, with 
his hands flat on his knees and his head erect; his eyes 
were fixed and staring. For some minutes he remained 
like this, and all the soldiers and people who had collect- 
ed in front of the tent went down on their knees, laid 
their caps on the ground, and muttered prayers. One of 

162 



THE POMBO HYPNOTIZED 



the two Lamas, a fellow with great mesmeric powers, now 
laid his hand upon the shoulders of the Pombo, who 
gradually raised his arms with hands out-stretched and 
remained as in a cataleptic state for a long time without 
moving an inch. 

Next the Lama touched the Pombo's neck with his 
thumbs, and caused the head to begin a rapid circular 
movement from left to right. 




THE POMBO S CONTORTIONS 



Certain exorcisms were pronounced by the hypnotizer, 
and the Pombo now began the most extraordinary snake- 
like contortions, moving and twisting his arms, head, 
body, and legs. He worked himself, or rather was worked, 
into a frenzy that lasted some time, and the crowd of 
devotees drew nearer and nearer to him, praying fervent- 
ly and emitting deep sighs and cries of astonishment and 
almost terror at some of the more eccentric movements 

163 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

of his limbs. Every now and then this weird kind of 
dance terminated in a strange posture, the Pombo actual- 
ly doubling himself up with his head between his feet and 
his long flat hat resting on the ground. While he was in 
this position, the bystanders went one by one to finger his 
feet and make low prostrations and salaams. At last the 
hypnotize^ seizing the Pombo's head between his hands, 




THE FINALE OF THE DANCE 



stared in his eyes, rubbed his forehead, and woke him 
from the trance. The Pombo was pale and exhausted. 
He lay back on the chair and his hat fell off his head, 
which was clean shaven, thus unmistakably showing that 
he, too, was a Lama, and, as we have seen, of a very high 
order, probably of the first rank after the Dalai Lama. 

Katas were distributed after this religious performance 
to all the Tibetans present, and they folded them and 
stowed them away in their coats. 

164 



CHAPTER XCII 

COMPLIMENTS EXCHANGED— A POISONED DRINK PROFFERED— IN ACUTE 
PAIN — UNCERTAINTY AS TO OUR FATE — WORKING THE ORACLE— MY 
WEBBED FINGERS 

The Pombo came out of his gaudy tent, and I told him 
that the dance was beautiful, but that I was very hungry. 
He asked me what I wanted to eat, and I said I would 
like some meat and tea. 

A little later, a large vessel with a delicious stew of 
yak's meat was brought to me, as well as tsamba in abun- 
dance. However, though I felt quite famished, I had the 
greatest difficulty in swallowing even a little food. This 
I thought must be owing to the injuries to my spine and 
to the mortification of my limbs, which had apparently 
affected my whole system. 

When the Pombo had retired and night came on, I 
was again tied to the stretching log, but this time with 
my limbs not stretched so far apart. My hands, too, 
were again fastened to the pillar behind, but with no 
strain on them. 

Late in the evening half a dozen Lamas came from 
the monastery with a light and a large brass bowl which 
thev said contained tea. The wounded Lama, with his 
head all bandaged up, was among them, and he w r as so 
anxious for me to drink some of it to keep myself warm 
during the cold night that I became quite suspicious. 
When they pushed a bowl of it to my lips I merely 
sipped a little, and declined to take more, spitting out 
iL— n 165 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

what they had forced into my mouth. I swallowed a few 
drops, and a few minutes later I was seized with sharp, 
excruciating pains in my stomach, which continued for 
several days after. I can but conclude that the drink 
proffered me was poisoned. 

The following day my left foot, which had remained 
lifeless since I had been untied from the rack the first 
time, began to get better, and the circulation was gradu- 
ally restored. The pain was unbearable. 

In the morning indecision again prevailed as to what 
was to be done to us. A number of Lamas were still 
anxious to have us beheaded, whereas the Pombo and the 
others had the previous night almost made up their minds 
to send us back to the frontier. Unfortunately, it ap- 
pears* that the Pombo had seen a vision during the 
night in which a spirit told him that, if he did not kill us, 
he and his country would suffer some great misfortune. 
" You can kill the Plenki," the spirit was reported to have 
said, " and no one will punish you if you do. The Plenkis 
are afraid to fight the Tibetans." 

Among the Lamas no important step is taken without 
incantations and reference to occult science, so the Pombo 
ordered a Lama to cut off a lock of my hair, which he did 
with a very blunt knife, and then the Pombo rode up with 
it in his hand to the Lamasery to consult the oracle. The 
lock was handed in for inspection, and it seems that, after 
certain incantations, the oracle answered that I must be 
beheaded or the country would be in great danger. 

The Pombo rode back apparently disappointed, and 
now ordered that one of my toe-nails should be cut ; after 
which operation, performed with the same blunt knife, 



* The Tibetan Lamas stated this to the Political Peshkar Karak Sing^ 
British frontier officer. 

166 



CONSULTING THE ORACLE 

the oracle was again consulted as to what should be done, 
and unhappily gave the same answer. 

Three such consultations are usually held by the high 
court of the assembled Lamas, the Tibetans on the third 
occasion producing for the oracle's decision a piece of a 
finger-nail. The Lama who was about to cut this off ex- 
amined my hands behind and spread my fingers apart, 
expressing great surprise and astonishment. In a mo- 
ment all the Lamas and soldiers came round and exam- 
ined my manacled hands — a repetition of my experience 
at the Tucker Monastery. The Pombo, too, on being in- 
formed, immediately came and inspected my fingers, and 
the proceedings were at once stopped. 

When some weeks later I was released, I was able to 
learn from the Tibetans the reason of their amazement. 
My fingers happen to be webbed rather higher than 
usual, and this is most highly thought of in Tibet. He 
who possesses such fingers has, according to the Tibe- 
tans, a charmed life, and, no matter how much one tries, 
no harm can be done to him. Aside from the question 
whether there was much charm or not in my life in Tibet, 
there is no doubt that this trifling superstition did much 
towards hastening the Pombo's decision as to what was 
to be our fate. 



CHAPTER XCIII 

OUR LIVES TO BE SPARED --AN UNPLEASANT MARCH — CHANDEN SING 
STILL ALIVE — A SLEEPLESS NIGHT — TOWARDS THE FRONTIER— LONG 
AND PAINFUL MARCHES — HOW WE SLEPT AT NIGHT — A MAP DRAWN 
WITH BLOOD 

The Pombo ordered that my life should be spared, and 
that I should on that very day start on my return journey 
towards the Indian frontier. He took from my own 
money one hundred and twenty rupees, which he placed 
in my pocket for my wants during the journey, and com- 
manded that, though I must be kept chained up, I was to 
be treated kindly, and my servants also. 

When all was ready, Mansing and I were led on foot 
to Toxem, pur guard consisting of some fifty horsemen 
riding on ponies, We had to travel at a great speed de- 
spite our severely lacerated feet, our aching bones, and 
the sores and wounds with which we were covered all over. 
The soldiers led me tied by the neck like a dog, and 
dragged me along when, panting, exhausted, and suffering, 
I could not keep up with the ponies. We crossed several 
cold streams, sinking in water and mud up to our waists. 

At Toxem, to my great delight, I beheld Chanden Sing 
still alive. He had been kept prisoner in the mud-house, 
where he had remained tied upright to a post for over 
three days, and for four days he had not eaten food nor 
drunk anything. He was told that I had been beheaded. 
He was in a dreadful condition, almost dying from his 
wounds, cold, and starvation. 

1 68 




CHANDEN SING TIED TO A POST 



PAINFUL MARCHES 

We were detained there for the night, half-choked by 
smoke in one of the rooms of the mud-house packed with 
soldiers, who, with a woman of easy morals, gambled the 
whole night, and sang and swore and fought, preventing 
us from sleeping for even a few minutes. 

The next day at sunrise Chanden Sing and I were placed 




A WHITE YAK 



on yaks, not on riding saddles, but on pack-saddles such 
as those shown in the illustration in Chapter XL of Vol. 
I. Poor Mansing was made to walk, and was beaten 
mercilessly when, tired and worn out, he fell or remained 
behind. They again tied him with a rope by the neck and 
dragged him along in a most brutal manner. We had a 
strong guard to prevent our escaping, and they demanded 
fresh relays of yaks and ponies and food for themselves at 
all the encampments, so that we travelled very fast. In 
* 8 169 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the first five days we covered one hundred and seventy- 
eight miles, the two longest marches being respectively 
forty-two and forty-five miles ; but afterwards we did not 
cover quite such great distances. 

We suffered considerably on these long marches, as the 
soldiers ill-treated us and would not allow us to eat every 
day for fear we should get too strong. They let us have 
food only every two or three days, and our exhaustion and 
the pain caused by riding those wretched yaks in our 
wounded condition were terrible. 

All our property had been taken away from us, and our 
clothes were in rags and swarming with vermin. We were 
barefooted and practically naked. The first few days we 
generally marched from before sunrise till sometimes an 
hour or two after sunset; and when we reached camp we 
were torn off our yaks and our jailers fastened iron cuffs 
round our ankles, in addition to those we had already round 
our wrists. Being considered quite safe, we were left to 
sleep out in the open without a covering of any kind, and 
often lying on snow or deluged with rain. Our guard 
generally pitched a tent under which they slept; but even 
when they did not have one, they usually went to brew 
their tea some fifty yards or so from us. 

Helped by my two servants, who sat by me to keep 
watch and to screen me, I managed, at considerable risk, 
to keep a rough record of the journey back, on a small 
piece of paper that had remained in my pocket when I 
had been searched by the Tibetans. As I did when on 
the rack, I used to draw my right hand out of its cuff, and, 
with a small piece of bone I had picked up as pen, and my 
blood as ink, I drew brief cipher notes, and a map of the 
whole route back. 

Necessarily, as I had no instruments with which to take 
careful observations, I had to content myself with taking 

170 



> 

O 

> 
2 



td 
O 

o 

d 

o 

C! 

2 
5 
o 

o 

> 

H 













*%\ 



n 4 fefe* 



Yt Aj , f*> 



¥, 
£ 



DIFFICULT OBSERVATIONS 

my bearings by the sun, the position of which I got fairly 
accurately by constantly watching the shadow projected 
by my body on the ground. Of course, when it rained or 
snowed I was altogether at a loss, and had to reckon my 
bearings by the observations of the previous day. 



CHAPTER XCIV 

SOUTH OF THE OUTWARD JOURNEY — SEVERITY OF OUR GUARD — VEN- 
TRILOQUISM AND TTS EFFECTS — TERRIBLE BUT INSTRUCTIVE DAYS 
— THE SOUTHERN SOURCE OF THE BRAHMAPUTRA — LEAVING YUT- 
ZANG 

We travelled, as can be seen in the dotted red line on 
the map attached to this book, first west, then west-north- 
west, northwest, west, and northwest, following the Brah- 
maputra along a course south of the outward journey, un- 
til we reached the boundary of the Yutzang* (central, or 
Lhassa) province. Our guard were not only severe with 
us, but they also ill-treated us in every possible way. One 
or two of the soldiers, however, showed kindness and 
thoughtfulness, bringing us a little butter or tsamba when- 
ever they could do so unseen by their comrades. The 
guard was changed so frequently that we had no chance 
of making friends with them, and each lot seemed worse 
than the last. 

A very curious incident happened one day, causing a 
scare among them. We had halted near a cliff, and the 
soldiers were some twenty yards off. Having exhausted 
every means I could think of to inspire these ruffians with 
respect, I resorted to the performance of some ventrilo- 
quial feats, pretending to speak and to receive the an- 
swers from the summit of the cliff. The Tibetans were 
terror-stricken. They asked me who was up there. I 
said it was some one I knew. 

* Also written U-tzang. 
172 



TERROR-STRICKEN TIBETANS 

" Is it a Plenki ?" 

" Yes/' 

Immediately they hustled us on our yaks, and mount- 
ing their ponies, we left the place at headlong speed. 

On reaching a spot which from observations taken on 
my outward journey I reckoned to be in longitude 83 6 




ONE OF OUR GUARD 



3c" east and latitude 30° 27' 30" north I had a great piece 
of luck. It is at this point that the two principal sources 
of the Brahmaputra meet and form one river, the one com- 
ing from the northwest, which I had already followed, the 
other proceeding from the west-northwest. The Tibe- 
tans, to my delight, selected the southern route, thus giv- 
ing me the opportunity of visiting the second of the two 
principal sources of the great river. This second stream 

i73 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

rises in a flat plain, having its first birth in a lakelet in 
approximate longitude 82 47' east and latitude 30° 33' 
north. I gave the northern source my own name, a pro- 
ceeding which I trust will not be regarded as immodest 
in view of the fact that I was the first European to visit 
it, and of all the circumstances of my journey. 

This period of our captivity was dreary, yet interesting 
and instructive, for, as we went along, I got the soldiers 
to teach me some Tibetan songs, not unlike those of the 
Shokas in character, and from the less ill-natured men of 
our guard I picked up, by judicious questioning, a con- 
siderable amount of information, which, together with that 
collected from my own observations, I have given in this 
book. 

Over a more southerly and lower pass than the Maium 
Pass, by which, healthy, hopeful and free, we had entered 
the province of Yutzang, we now left it, wounded, broken 
down, naked and prisoners. 



CHAPTER XCV 

EASIER TIMES — LARGE ENCAMPMENTS — SUFFOCATING A GOAT — A 
TARJUM'S ENCAMPMENT — TOKCHIM— OLD FRIENDS — MUSICIANS — 
CHARITY 

We now proceeded in a northwesterly direction, and, 
once clear of the sacred Yutzang province, our guard be- 
haved with rather less cruelty. With the little money the 
Pombo had permitted me to keep we were allowed to 
purchase food enough to provide us with more frequent 
meals, and, while we ate, the soldiers removed our hand- 
cuffs, which they temporarily placed round our ankles. 
Thus, with utensils lent us by our guard, we were able to 
cook some food ; and, although we had to serve it on flat 
stones instead of dishes, it seemed indeed delicious. 

We crossed over our former track, and then followed it 
almost in a parallel line, but some miles north of it, along 
an undulating, clayey plateau, thus avoiding the marshy 
plain which we had found so troublesome to cross on our 
journey out. We found large numbers of black tents here 
and there, and one night, when we were encamped by 
some small lakes, we were permitted to purchase a goat. 
A soldier, a good fellow who had been very friendly to us, 
selected a fine fat one for us, and we were looking forward 
with pleasure to a solid meal, when we found to our dis- 
may that we had no means of despatching the animal. 
We could not behead it, as the Tibetans would not trust 
us with a knife or sword, and the Tibetans themselves re- 
fused to kill the animal for us in any other way. Event- 

175 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

ually our soldier friend allowed his scruples to be over- 
come by the payment of a rupee, and proceeded to kill 
the animal in a most cruel fashion. He tied its legs to- 
gether, and, having stuffed the nostrils with mud, he held 
the poor beast's mouth closed with one hand until it was 
suffocated. The soldier during the performance revolved 
his prayer-wheel with his free hand, praying fervently all 
the while. 

We found ourselves at last in the plain, where a Tar- 
jum's encampment of some two hundred tents was to be 




\ 



SOLDIER SUFFOCATING GOAT 



seen, and here we remained one night. There was a large 
assemblage of Lamas and soldiers. In the middle of the 
night we were suddenly and roughly roused from sleep, 
and made to move our camp about a mile or so from the 
settlement ; and, early in the morning, having crossed the 
large stream, we proceeded in a southwestly direction, 

176 





IK 



A 



/.- 






STROLLING MUSICIANS 



STROLLING MUSICIANS 



reaching the encampment of the Tokchim Tarjum the 
same night. Here we were met by the officers who had 
on a previous occasion brought us gifts, and whom we 
had routed with all their soldiers when they threaten- 
ed us. 

This time they behaved very decently, the oldest of 
them showing us every civility, and professing great 
admiration for our courage in persevering against such 
heavy odds. The old gen- 
tleman did all he could to 
make us comfortable, and 
even called up two strolling 
musicians for our amuse- 
ment. One man wore a pe- 
culiar four-cornered head- 
dress made of skin. He 
played with a bow on a two- 
, stringed instrument, whilehis 
companion, a child, danced 
and went through certain 
clumsy contortions, going 
round every few minutes 
with his tongue thrust out 
to beg for tsamba from the 
audience. The Tibetans are 
very charitable towards beg- 
gars, and not only on this, 
but on other occasions, I 
noticed that they seldom re- 
fused, no matter however small their donations might be, 
to give tsamba or pieces of butter or chura to the mendi- 
cants. The older musician had a square club passed 
through his girdle, and at intervals he laid down his in- 
strument, and, using the club as a sword, gave an imita- 

177 




OLD BEGGAR 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

tion of a martial dance, exactly like the one I have de- 
scribed as performed by the Shokas. Every now and 
then, too, he applied it to the boy's back and head, to 
inspire him with fresh vigor, and this generally drew 
roars of laughter from the audience. 






CHAPTER XCVI 

TOWARDS MANSAROWAR— MANSING'S VISION — BATHING IN MANSAROWAR 

The next day, amid repeated good-byes and professions 
of friendship on the part of our hosts and jailers, we 
departed towards Mansarowar, and late in the afternoon 
reached the Tucker village and Gomba, where we put up 
at the same serai in which I had slept on my way out. 
All our bonds were here removed for good, and we en- 
joyed comparative freedom, though four men walked by 
my side wherever I went, and an equal number looked 
after Chanden Sing and Mansing. Naturally we were 
not allowed to go far from the serai, but we could prowl 
about in the village. I took this opportunity to have a 
swim in the Mansarowar Lake, and Chanden Sing and 
Mansing again paid fresh salaams to the gods and plunged 
in the sacred water. 

The Lamas, who had been so friendly during my former 
visit, were now extremely sulky and rude ; and, after 
having witnessed our arrival, thev all withdrew into the 
monastery, banging the gate after them. All the villagers, 
too, hastily retired to their respective houses. The place 
was deserted with the exception of the soldiers round us. 

Poor Mansing, who, worn out and in great pain, was 
sitting close by me, looking vaguely at the lake, had an 
extraordinary vision, the result, probably, of fever or ex- 
haustion. 

" Oh, sahib/' said he, as if in a dream, though he was 
quite awake; "look, look! Look at the crowd of people 

179 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



walking on the water. There must be more than a thou- 
sand men! Oh, how big they are getting! . . . And 
there is God! . . . Seva. . . . No; they are Tibetans; 
they are coming to kill us; they are Lamas ! Oh, come, 

sahib, they are so near! . . . 
Oh, they are flying. . . . " 
"Where are they?" I 
asked. 

I could see that the poor 
fellow was under an halluci- 
nation. His forehead was 
burning, and he was in a 
high fever. 

" They have all disap- 
peared!" he exclaimed, as 
I placed my hand on his 
forehead and he woke from 
his trance. 

He seemed quite stupe- 
fied for a few moments ; and, 
on my inquiring of him 
later whether he had seen the phantom crowd again, he 
could not remember ever having seen it at all. 

The natives came to visit us in the serai during the 
evening, and we had great fun with them, for the Tibe- 
tans are full of humor and have many comical ways. As 
for ourselves, now that we were only two marches from 
Taklakot, it was but natural that our spirits were high. 
Only two more days of captivity, and then a prospect of 
freedom. 

It was still dark when we were roused and ordered to 
start. The soldiers draped us out of the serai. We en- 
treated them to let us have another plunge in the sacred 
Mansarowar, and the three of us were eventually allowed 

1 80 




A TIBETAN SHEPHERD 



2 
o 

o 



pi 




A PLUNGE IN THE MANSAROWAR 

to do so. The water was bitterly cold, and we had noth- 
ing to dry ourselves with. 

It was about an hour before sunrise when we were 
placed on our yaks and, surrounded by some thirty sol- 
diers, rode off. 



CHAPTER XCVII 

SUNA — WILSON AND THE POLITICAL PESHKAR ACROSS THE FRONTIER— 
A MESSENGER — OUR PROGRESS STOPPED— DIVERTING US OVER THE 
LUMPIYA PASS — CONDEMNED TO CERTAIN DEATH— WE ATTACK OUR 
GUARD — LAPSANG AND THE JONG PEN'S PRIVATE SECRETARY — A DOC- 
UMENT — NEARING KARDAM — RETRACING OUR STEPS — DOGMAR 




When we had been marching for several hours, our 
guard halted to have their tea. A man named Suna, and 
his brother and son, whom I had met in Garbyang, halted 
near us, and from them I heard that news 
had arrived in India that I and my two 
men had been beheaded, and that there- 
upon Doctor Wilson and the Political 
Peshkar Karak Sing had crossed over 
the frontier to ascertain the facts, and to 
attempt to recover my baggage, etc. My 
joy was intense when I heard that they 
were still at Taklakot. I persuaded Su- 
na to return as fast as he could, and in- 
form Wilson that I was a prisoner, and tell 
him my whereabouts. I had barely given Suna this mes- 
sage when our guard seized the man and his brother and 
roughly dismissed them, preventing them from having 
any further communication with us. As soon as we were 
on the march again, a horseman rode up to us with strict 
orders from the Jong Pen of Taklakot not to let us pro- 
ceed any farther towards the frontier by the Lippu Pass, 
which we could now have reached in two days, but to 
take us round by the distant Lumpiya Pass. At this 

182 



TEA CHURN (OPEN) 



OUR PROGRESS STOPPED 

time of the year the Lumpiya would be impassable, and 
we should have to make a further journey of at least fif- 
teen or sixteen days, most of it over snow and ice, during 
which we, in our starved and weakened state, would inev- 
itably succumb. We asked to be taken into Taklakot, 
but our guard refused, and in the mean time the Jong Pen 




A MESSENGER OF BAD NEWS 



of Taklakot had sent other messengers and soldiers to 
insure the fulfilment of his orders, and to prevent our 
further progress. 

Our guard, now strengthened by the Taklakot men, 
compelled us to leave the Taklakot track, and we began 

183 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 




our journey towards the cold Lumpiya. This was mur- 
der, and the Tibetans, well knowing it, calculated on tell- 
ing the Indian authorities that we had died a natural 
death on the snows. 

We were informed that we should be left at the point 
where the snows began, that the Tibetans would give us 

no food, no clothes and 
no blankets, and that we 
should be abandoned to 
our own devices. This, 
needless to say, meant 
certain death. 

We determined to 
stand no more, and to 
play our last card. After 
travelling some two and 
a half miles westward of 
the Taklakot track, we 
declined to proceed any 
more in that direction. 
We said that, if they at- 
tempted to force us on 
we were prepared to fight 
our guard, as whether 
we died by their swords 
and matchlocks, or frozen 
to death on the Lum- 
piya, was quite immate- 
rial to us. 
The guard, in perplexity, decided to let us halt there 
for the night, so as to have time to send a messenger to 
Taklakot to inform the Jong Pen, and ask for further in- 
structions. 

During the night the order came that we must pro- 

184 




SHEEP LOADS FOR BORAX AND GRAIN 




A SHOKA-TIBETAN HALF-CASTE 



, 



CONDEMNED TO DEATH 

ceed, so the next morning our guard prepared to start us 
again towards the Lumpiya. Then we three semi-corpses 
collected what little strength remained in us, and suddenly 
made an attack on them with stones ; whereupon, incredi- 
ble as it may seem, our cowardly guard turned tail and 



_ rr 




A JUMLI SHED 



bolted ! We went on in the direction of Taklakot, fol- 
lowed at a distance by these ruffians, who were entreat- 
ing us to make no further resistance and to go with them 
where they wanted us to go. If we did not, they said, 
they would all have their heads cut off. We refused to 
listen to them, and kept them away by throwing stones 
at them. 

We had gone but a few miles when we met with a large 
force of soldiers and Lamas, despatched by the Jong Pen 
to prepare for our death. Unarmed, wounded, starved and 

185 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

exhausted as we were, it was useless attempting to fight 
against such odds. As it was, when they saw we were 
at liberty, they made ready to fire on us. 

The Jong Pen's Chief Minister, a man called Lapsang, 
and the Jong Pen's Private Secretary, were at the head 
of this party. I went to shake hands with them and held 











LAPSANG AND THE JONG PENS PRIVATE SECRETARY 

a long and stormy palaver, but they kept firm and in- 
sisted on our turning away from the frontier, now that we 
were almost within a stone's-throw of it, and we must per- 
force proceed by the high Lumpiya Pass. Those were 
the Jong Pen's orders, and they, as well as I, must obey 
them. They would not give us or sell us either animals 

1 86 



I^HP^- 




> 

n 



> 



x 




NEARING KARDAM 

or clothes, which even the small sum of money I had on 
me would have been sufficient to buy ; and they would 
not provide us with even an ounce of food. We emphati- 
cally protested, and said we preferred to die where we 
were. We asked them to kill us then and there, for we 
would not budge an inch. 

Lapsang and the Jong Pen's Private Secretary now 
cunningly suggested that I should give them in writing 
the names of the Shokas who had accompanied me to 
Tibet, probably with the object of confiscating their land 
and goods. As I said I could not write Tibetan or Hin- 
dustani, they requested me to do it in English. This I 
did, but substituting for the names of my men and my 
signature sarcastic remarks, which must have caused the 
Tibetans some surprise when they had the document 
translated. 

As, however, they refused to kill us there and then, and 
as Lapsang showed us great politeness and asked us to 
go by the Lumpiya Pass as a personal favor to him, I 
reluctantly decided to accept their terms rather than 
waste any more time, now that we were so near British 
soil. 

Escorted by this large force of men, we had nearly 
reached Kardam when, in the nick of time, a horseman 
came up at full gallop and hailed our party. We stopped, 
and the man overtook us and handed Lapsang a letter. 
It contained an order to bring us immediately into Tak- 
lakot. 

We retraced our steps along the undulating plateau 
above the Gakkon River, and late at night we reached 
the village of Dogmar, a peculiar settlement in a valley 
between two high cliffs of clay, the natives of which live 
in holes pierced in the cliff. 

Lapsang, the Jong Pen's Private Secretary, and the 

187 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

greater portion of their soldiers, having changed their 
ponies, went on to Taklakot ; but we were made to halt 
here, when yet another letter came from the Jong Pen 
saying he had changed his mind and we must, after all, 
go by the Lumpiya Pass ! 



CHAPTER XCVIII 

A COMMOTION — THE ARRIVAL OF AN ARMY— ELECTED GENERAL-IN- 
CHIEF— HOW WE WERE TO SLAUGHTER THE JONG PEN'S SOLDIERS — 
MY MEN LAY DOWN THEIR ARMS — TOWARDS TAKLAKOT — DELALING 
AND SIBLING— TAKLAKOT AT LAST 

During the night there was a great commotion in the 
place, the people running about and shouting, and a large 
number of ponies with their riders arriving. 

Tibet is farmed out, so to speak, to officials who have 
become small feudal kings, and these are generally at log- 
gerheads among themselves. To this regal jealousy, and 
to disputes over the rights of the road, was due the ap- 
pearance of this new army. There were altogether some 
hundred and fifty men armed with matchlocks and swords. 
The chieftain of this band came to me with eight or ten 
other officers, and spoke so excitedly that I feared there 
was trouble in store for us. There was indeed. These 
new arrivals were officers and soldiers from Gyanema, 
Kardam, and Barca, and they had come with strict orders 
from the Barca Tarjum that we were on no account to 
traverse his province or to cross by the Lumpiya Pass. 
This was very amusing and tantalizing, for we had now 
no way across the frontier open to us. Our guard and 
some of the Jong Pen's men who had remained behind, 
finding they were in the minority, thought it prudent to 
eclipse themselves ; and I, anxious as I naturally was to 
get out of the country as quickly as possible, approved of 
all that the Gyanema men said, and urged them to fight 
in case the Jong Pen still insisted on my going through 

189 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

the Tarjum s province. All ways out of the country were 
barred to us, and unless we resorted to force, I felt we 
would never escape at all. 

The Gyanema men asked me whether I would lead 
them in case of a fight with the Jong Pen's soldiers ; and 






JUMLI TRADER AND HIS WIFE IN TIBET 

I, though not very confident of their courage, accepted 
the post of general-in-chief pro tern., Chanden Sing and 
Mansing being promoted there and then to be my aides- 
de-camp. We spent the greater part of the night in ar- 
ranging our plan of attack on the Jong Pen's troops, and 

190 







I I 






%M 





4* 



CLIFF HABITATIONS 



GENERAL-IN-CHIEF 

when all was properly settled, the Tibetans, to show their 
gratitude, brought me a leg of mutton, some tsamba, and 
two bricks of tea. 

The morning came, and I was given a fine pony to ride, 
as were also Chanden Sing and Mansing. Then, followed 
by my Tibetan troops — a grand cavalcade- — we started 
gayly towards Taklakot. We had been informed that the 




CHOKDENS NEAR TAKLAKOT 



Jong Pen was concentrating his men at a certain point on 
the road to bar our way — and it was this point that we 
must force. My Tibetans said that they hated the Jong 
Pen's men, and swore they would slaughter them all if 
they made any stand. 

" But they are such cowards," declared one of the Tib- 
etan officers, " that they will run away." 

All this talk stopped suddenly when we heard the dis- 
tant tinkling of our enemies' horse-bells, and though I en- 
couraged my men as best I could, a panic began to spread 

191 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 






among them. The Jong Pen's men came in sight, and 
presently I witnessed the strange spectacle of two armies 
face to face, each in mortal terror of the other. 

Notwithstanding my remonstrances, matchlocks and 
swords were deposited on the ground with anxious eager- 
ness by both parties, to show that only peaceful intentions 
prevailed. Then a conference was held, in which every- 
body seemed ready to oblige everybody else except me. 

While this was still proceeding, a horseman arrived with 
a message from the Jong Pen, and at last, to everybody's 
satisfaction, permission was granted for us to proceed into 
Taklakot. 

My army retraced its steps towards the northwest, and, 
deposed from my high military post, which I had occupied 
only a few hours, I became again a private individual and 
a prisoner. With a large escort we were taken along the 
Gakkon, by barren cliffs and on a rocky road. We passed 
hundreds of Choktens large and small, mostly painted red, 
and mani walls. Then, having descended by a precipi- 
tous track on whitish clay-soil, we reached a thickly in- 
habited district, where stone houses were scattered all 
over the landscape. We saw on our left the large mon- 
astery of Delaling and, a little way off, the Gomba of Sib- 
ling ; then, describing a sweeping curve among stones and 
boulders, we rounded the high, graceful cliff, on the top 
of which towered the fort and monasteries of Taklakot. 



CHAPTER XCIX 

FREE AT LAST— AMONG FRIENDS — FORGETTING OUR PAST TROUBLES- 
CONFISCATED BAGGAGE RETURNED— A SCENE WITH NERBA — SUNA'S 
MESSAGE DELIVERED— HOW OUR RELEASE WAS BROUGHT ABOUT — 
ACROSS THE FRONTIER— PHOTOGRAPHY AT GUNGI 

Such was our anxiety, when we reached this point, lest 
something should happen and we should be taken back 
again, that, as soon as we were across the wooden bridge 
over the Gakkon, Chanden Sing and I, on perceiving the 
large Shoka encampment at the foot of the hill, lashed 
our ponies and ran away from our guard. Thus, gallop- 
ing our hardest along the high cliff, where hundreds of 
people live in holes in the clay, we found ourselves at last 
among friends again. The Shokas, who had come over 
to this market to exchange their goods with the Tibetans, 
were astounded when they saw us, recognizing us at first 
with difficulty. 

We inquired at once, of course, for Dr. Wilson, and 
when we found him the good man could, himself, barely 
recognize us, so changed were we. He seemed deeply 
moved at seeing our condition. 

When the news of our arrival spread in camp, we met 
with the greatest kindness at the hands of everybody. In 
a corner of Wilson's tent was a large quantity of can- 
died sugar — several pounds ; and so famished was I that 
I quickly devoured the lot. Later, my Shoka friends 
brought in all kinds of presents in the shape of eatables 
which Rubso, the doctors cook, was set to prepare. 

The Political Peshkar, Karak Sing, hurried to me with 
a change of clothes, and other garments were given me 

i93 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



by Dr. Wilson. My own ragged attire was literally 
swarming with vermin ; our guard had not allowed us a 
single change of raiment, nor would they even hear of our 
washing. It was by a very special favor and on account 
of its sanctity that we were allowed to plunge in the 

sacred Mansarowar Lake. 

Later in the day my wounds 
and injuries were examined by 
Dr. Wilson, who sent his reports 
to the Government of India, to 
the Commissioner of Kumaon, 
and to the Deputy Commission- 
er of Almora. 

Tenderly nursed by Wilson 
and Karak Sing, and having par- 
taken of plenty of good food, I 
found my spirits, which had fall- 
en rather low, reviving as if by 
magic ; and, strange to say, after 
a few hours of happiness, I was 
already beginning to forget the 
hardships and suffering I had 
endured. I remained three days at Taklakot, during 
which time part of my confiscated baggage was returned 
by the Tibetans, and, as can well be imagined, I was over- 
joyed to discover that among the things thus recovered 
were my diary, note-books, maps, and sketches. My fire- 
arms, some money, the ring I have before referred to as 
having been a gift of my mother's, several mathematical 
instruments, collections, over 400 photographic negatives, 
and various other articles were still missing, # but I was 
glad to get back as much as I did. 

* Some of the articles missing were some months later recovered by the 
Government of India. See Appendix. 

194 




PUNDIT GOBARIA 




THE AUTHOR, FEBRUARY, 1 897 



THE AUTHOR OCTOBER, 1 897 



DR. WILSON 

To Dr. Wilson's tent came the Tokchim Tarjum, of 
whom I give a portrait, his private secretary Nerba, whom 
the reader may remember as having played an important 
part in my tortures, the Jong Pen's secretary, and old 
Lapsang in a fine green velvet coat with ample sleeves. 
As can be seen by perusing the Government Enquiry and 




DR. WILSON 



Report in the Appendix to this book, the above-mentioned 
Tibetan officers admitted before the Political Peshkar, Dr. 
Wilson, Pundit Gobaria, and many Shokas, that the ac- 
count I gave of my tortures — identical with the one in 
these pages — was correct in every detail. They even pro- 
fessed to be proud of what they had done, and used ex- 

195 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

pressions not at all flattering to the British Government, 
which they affected to treat with great contempt. 

I nearly got the Political Peshkar and the Doctor into 
a scrape ; for my blood, the little I had left, was boiling 
with rage at hearing the Tibetan insults. The climax 




KARAK SING, THE POLITICAL PESHKAR 



came when Nerba refused to give back my mother's ring, 
which he had upon him. In a passion I seized a knife 
that was lying by me, and leaped upon Nerba, the ruffian 
who, besides, had fired at me and had held me by the hair 
while my eyes were being burned prior to my abortive exe- 
cution. Wilson and Karak Sing seized and disarmed me, 
but there was a general stampede of the Tibetan officers, 

196 





"'I TOLD YOU,' EXCLAIMED THE OLD SAVAGE, 'THAT WHOEVER 
VISITS THE HOME OF THE RAOTS WILL HAVE MISFORTUNE'" 




A PICTURESQUE BIT OF ALMORA 



HOW I WAS RELEASED 

and thus our interview and negotiations were brought to 
an abrupt end. 

In further conversation I now learned how my release 
had been brought about. Dr. Wilson and the Political 
Peshkar, having received the news that my servants and 
myself had been beheaded, proceeded across the frontier 
to make inquiries and try to recover my property. They 




MANSING SHOWING CUTS UNDER HIS FEET 



heard then from the man Suna, whom I had sent from 
Mansarowar with my message, that I was still a prisoner, 
covered with wounds, in rags and starving. They had 
not men enough to force their way farther into the coun- 
try to come and meet me ; besides, the Tibetans watched 
them carefully; but they, together with Pundit Gobaria, 
made strong representations to the Jong Pen of Taklakot, 
and, by threatening him that an army would be sent up 

197 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



if I were not set at liberty, they at last obtained from the 
reluctant Master of the fort # a permission that I should 
be brought into Taklakot. The permission was after- 
wards withdrawn, but was at last allowed to be carried 
into execution, and it is entirely due to the good offices 
and energy of these three gentlemen that I am to-day 

alive and safe — though not 
yet sound. 

Pundit Gobaria, who will be 
remembered as having been 
mentioned in my early chap- 
ters, is the most influential 
Shoka trader in Bhot, and on 
very friendly terms with the 
Tibetans. He was the inter- 
mediary through whom ne- 
gotiations were carried on 
for my immediate release, and 
it was largely owing to his 
advice to the Jong Pen that 
they resulted satisfactorily. 

After a brief rest to recover 
sufficient strength, I recom- 
menced the journey towards India, and, having crossed 
the Lippu Pass (16,780 feet), found myself at last again 
on British soil. We descended by slow stages to Gungi, 
where, in Dr. Wilson's dispensary, I had to halt for a few 
days on account of my weak condition. 

Wilson had here a quantity of my baggage, instruments, 
camera, plates, etc., which I had discarded at the begin- 
ning of my journey, and I immediately had photographs 
taken of my two servants and myself, showing our wounds 




CHANDEN SING'S LEGS, SHOWING 

MARKS OF LASHES AND 

WOUNDS HEALED 



* Jong Pen = Master of the fort. 
198 



PHOTOGRAPHS 

and our shocking general condition. Photographs of my 
feet, taken more than a month after I had been untied 
from the rack, showed a considerable swelling, as well as 
the scars round the ankle and on the foot where the 
ropes had cut into my flesh. In the full-face photograph 
here reproduced can be noticed the injuries to my left 
eye, as well as the marks of the hot iron on the skin of 
my forehead and nose. Chanden Sing's legs, which were 
photographed on the same occasion, though now 7 prac- 
tically healed, were still much swollen, and the marks 
can be seen in the illustration where big patches of skin 
and flesh had been torn away by the lashes, producing 
nasty wounds. 



CHAPTER C 

CIVILIZATION ONCE MORE— PARALYSIS— THE TINKER PASS IN NEPAL- 
KINDLY NATIVES— MR. LARKIN — GOVERNMENT INQUIRY — BACK TO 
TIBET — FINAL GOOD-BYE TO THE FORBIDDEN LAND — THE RETURN 
JOURNEY — FAREWELL TO MANSING— HOME AGAIN 




It was really wonderful how soon we began to pick up 
again under the good care of Dr. Wilson and the influence 
of proper food and clothing. When 
I saw my face for the first time in a 
looking-glass, I nearly had a fit, so 
ghastly did it look ; but I felt more 
like myself when I had shaved off my 
beard of several months' growth ; and, 
after the ever-obliging Wilson, with a 
pair of blunt scissors, had spent a 
whole afternoon in performing the 
functions of hairdresser, I began to 
look almost civilized again. Clothes 
were a great nuisance at first, but I 
soon got into the way of wearing 
them. 

The injuries to my spine were 
severe, and gave me much trouble. 
At times the whole of my left side became as if paralyzed. 
Besides, I invariably experienced the greatest difficulty in 
sitting down when I had been standing, and in getting up 
when I had been sitting down. Through the great strain 
they had undergone, my joints continued stiff and swollen, 
and remained so far months. I could see comparatively 

200 








MR. J. LARKIN 







ON THE LIPPU PASS 




















%^^ * * 




MR. LARKIN LOOKING OUT FOR THE JONG PEN FROM THE LIPPU PASS 
41 



TINKER IN NEPAL 

well with my right eye, but was unable to use the left 
at all. 

When slightly better I made an excursion to Tinker, in 
Nepal, there being a pass in the neighborhood I had not 
visited. Having crossed into Nepal at Chongur, I fol- 
lowed a course towards 86° (b. m.), until we came to the 
Zirri River, descending precipitously between high snowy 
ridges. Then I kept on the right bank of the Tinker 
River, first through forests of firs, then among barren 





CHANDEN SING AND MANSING ENJOYING THEIR FIRST MEAL ACCORDING 
TO THE RULES OF THEIR CASTES 



rocks and along ravines, the track being extremely bad in 
some places. The general direction was 88° (b. m.), until 
the Tinker bridge was reached, by which the stream was 
crossed, from which point I travelled some three miles to 
74 (b. m.), and arrived at the Tinker village, a few houses 
of Shokas perched on this slope of the mountain, having 
for a background the magnificent snowy peaks dividing- 
Nepal from Tibet. From the village the track to the pass 
is easy, first to 78° 30' (b. m.), as far as the Zentim bridge, 
two miles off, where the Dongon River, descending from 

201 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

106 (b. m.), meets the Zeyan Yangti, # and, following 
the latter stream for another four miles, one reaches the 
Tinker Pass, the distance between the Pass and Taklakot 




A SHAKY PASSAGE ON THE NERPANI ROAD 

being twelve miles. At io6° (b. m.) I observed a very 
high snowy peak, the Dongon. 

Having seen all that I wanted to see here I made my 
way back to Garbyang with all speed, as I was anxious to 
return to Europe as soon as possible, and I travelled 



* Yangti = River. 
202 



•It 



KINDLY NATIVES 

down to Askote in company of Peshkar Karak Sing. 
The Nerpani road had fallen in two or three places, and 
rough shaky bridges had been constructed across the 
deep precipices, one of which can be seen in the accom- 
panying illustration. We met with a hearty reception 
everywhere, and kindness after kindness was showered 
upon us by all alike. 





VIEW OF ASKOTE — SHOWING RAJIWAR'S PALACE 



At Askote I was the guest of the good old Rajiwar, in 
whose garden I encamped, and who bestowed upon me 
every conceivable care and attention. Mr. J. Larkin, 
hastily despatched by the Government of India to con- 
duct an inquiry into my case, met me there, and, though 
still suffering much pain, I insisted on turning back once 
more towards Tibet, to help him in his task. By quick 
marches we reached Garbyang, where a deputation of 
Shokas, who had returned from Tibet, came to me, Mr. 

203 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Larkin having gone on ahead. Among them I noticed 
several of the men who had betrayed me, and as I was 
told that there was no way of punishing them for their 
treachery, I took justice into my own hands, proceeding 
with a stout stick to teach them some idea of faithfulness, 










SNAP-SHOT OF SHOKA VILLAGERS BEING ROUTED 



whereupon the whole village ran up to get the fellows out 
of my clutches. Encouraged by the Tibetans, the Shokas 
made some insulting remarks about Englishmen; so the 
fight became general until, ill as I was, and alone against 
some hundred and fifty men, I succeeded in routing 
them. The thing might justly be doubted had I not 
been able to take a snap-shot of them as they fled helter- 
skelter. 

Soon after leaving Garbyang, I overtook Mr. Larkin, 

204 



i 



to 
> 

H 
W 

►d 
O 

> 



DC 




BACK TO TIBET 

and we climbed towards the snows. We intended cross- 
ing over the Lippu Pass into Tibet to give the Jong Pen 
an opportunity of being interviewed, but he refused to 
meet us. 

All the same, to give the Tibetans every chance, we 
climbed over the Lippu Pass. It had been snowing 





DR. WILSON, MYSELF, MR. LARKIN, THE POLITICAL PESHKAR, AND 
JAGAT SING READY TO ASCEND THE LIPPU PASS 



heavily and it was very cold. A Shoka had only a few 
days previously been lost in the snow in trying to cross 
over, and had been frozen to death. We waited impa- 
tiently on the Tibetan side of the boundary for the Jong 
Pen or his deputies, to whom letters had been sent, to 
come and meet us; but they did not put in an appearance, 
so in the afternoon of October 12 I definitely turned my 
back on the Forbidden Land. I was still far from well, 

205 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

but was glad, indeed, at the prospect of seeing England 
and my friends again. 

We returned to our camp, a few hundred feet lower 
than the pass, where w r e had left our baggage and our 
men, who had suffered much from mountain sickness. 

It was at this camp that the accompanying photograph, 
which represents me bathing at 16,300 feet, was taken by 
Mr. Larkin. Chanden Sing, having broken the ice in a 




THE LAST GLANCE AT THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



stream, poured water from a brass vessel over me, standing, 
with my feet on snow, in a high wind and with the tem- 
perature at 12 Fahr. I reproduce it to show that even 
in mv reduced condition I was able to stand an unusual 
degree of cold. As a matter of fact, the water that had 
been taken from under the ice immediately froze on my 
shoulders, with the result that in a second I had icicles 
hanging on each side of my neck and a shawl of ice over 
my shoulders. 

206 



THE RETURN JOURNEY 

Having fulfilled our mission, Mr. Larkin and I returned 
by very quick marches to Almora; and it was a great 
satisfaction to me that in conducting the government in- 
quiry in an open court, Mr. Larkin was able to obtain ample 
testimony from Shokas and Tibetans as to my treatment, 
all of which w r as duly reported to the Government of India, 




Wm 



BATHING AT 16,300 FEET 

and also to the Foreign Office and India Office in Lon- 
don. A copy of the Enquiry and Government Report will 
be found in the Appendix. 

Winter setting in, the Shokas, who had by now all re- 
turned from Tibet, were beginning to migrate to their 
winter homes at Dharchula, and when we passed the set- 
tlement many were already at work repairing the fallen- 
down roofs of their hibernal habitations. At Askote the 

207 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

old Raot who had predicted ill-luck for me when I visited 
the Raots' dwelling, came to remind me of his prophecy. 
" I told you," exclaimed the old savage, " that whoever 
visits the home of the Raots will have misfortune," and 
I photographed the old scoundrel on the spot, together 



■"■';:;■.■'-/ /. :;■■;. ;■■ ■■ ; ■■■■;,- vv-- --.- --..^ ■■,.-. .^ 




DHARCHULA. DESERTED HABITATIONS OF SHOKAS 



with his mates, who listened with satisfaction to the 
words that came from the lips of their prophet. 

We proceeded with no delay to Almora, and from 
there went straight on to Naini Tal, the summer seat of 
the Government of the Northwest Provinces and Oudh, 
where a conference was held on my case by the Lieu- 
tenant-Governor. 

Having there enjoyed the unbounded hospitality of 
that able and energetic officer, Colonel Grigg, Commis- 
sioner of Kumaon, I paid off my faithful coolie Mansing, 

208 



HOME! 

giving him enough for a start in life. He accompanied 
me to Kathgodam, the terminus of the railway, and 
showed genuine grief when Chanden Sing and I stepped 
into the train. As we steamed away from the platform, 
he salaamed me affectionately, having previously begged 
that, if ever I should go back to Tibet, I would take 
him with me; only next time he, too, must be provided 
with a rifle ! That was the only condition. 

Chanden Sing, who remained as my servant, travelled 
with me to Bombay, and from there we went direct to 
Florence, the home of my parents, who had suffered in 
their anxiety at home almost as much as I did in the 
Forbidden Land. 




RAOTS LISTENING TO THE ACCOUNT OF MY MISFORTUNES 



APPENDIX 



Letter from Sir William Lee Warner, C.S.I. , Political and 
Secret Department \ India Office, London. 



" Honi soit 
qui mal y pense " 

India Office, Whitehall, S.W. 

August 4, 1898. 

Dear Sir: 

With reference to the request contained in your letter of the 
27th, and to your interview with me of the same day, I forward 
herewith for your use a copy of Mr. Larkin's " Enquiry and re- 
port " into your treatment by the Tibetans, 

Yours faithfully, 
(Signed) W. Lee Warner. 

A. Henry Savage Landor, Esq. 

GOVERNMENT REPORT BY J. LARKIN, Esq., 
MAGISTRATE OF THE FIRST CLASS. 

Mr. Arnold Henry Savage Landor having been reported to 
have been captured and tortured by the Tibetans, I was sent up 
to Garbyang in Byans to ascertain the facts. 

Mr. Landor arrived in India on the 10th of April last. He 
proceeded to Almora, where he arrived on the 27th idem. He 
stayed there until the 10th of May, to make arrangements for his 
travels in Tibet. At first he was advised to take some Gurkha 
soldiers with him, but this fell through, as the military did not 
accede to his request. He then, on the 27th May, arrived in 
Garbyang in Byans patti. It appears to have been his intention 

211 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

to have entered Tibet by the Lippu Lek Pass. This is the easi- 
est, being about 16,780 feet above sea level. It is the most fre- 
quented route taken by the traders of Byans and Chaudans, and 
is adjacent to Taklakot, a mart for wood, salt, borax, grain, etc. 
He was, however, frustrated in this, inasmuch as the Jong Pen 
of Taklakot came to know of Mr. Landor's intention and took 
steps to prevent it. He caused bridges to be destroyed and sta- 
tioned guards along the route. 

Moreover, he appears to have been kept fully cognizant of Mr. 
Landor's moves through the agency of his spies in Garbyang. 

Under these circumstances Mr. Landor was compelled to re- 
sort to some other route, and selected the Lumpia Pass, which 
stands at an altitude of 18,150 feet. 

On the 13th July last Mr. Landor, with a following of thirty 
men, entered Tibet. He reached Gyanima, where he was stopped 
by the Barkha Tarjum. This personage, however, after some 
persuasion, consented to permit Mr. Landor and seven followers 
to go forward to the Mansarowar Lake. 

Next day the accorded permission was withdrawn, and Mr. 
Landor and his party were turned back. The party returned 
three marches, when Mr. Savage Landor determined to go to 
Mansarowar by the unfrequented wilds. 

On the 2 1st July Mr. Landor, with nine followers, at mid- 
night, in a terrific snow-storm, climbed up the mountain and 
went off, the bulk of his party continuing their retreat to the 
Lumpia Lek. By this strategic move Mr. Landor baffled the 
Tibetan guards (Chaukidars). He carefully avoided coming into 
contact with any of the inhabitants, and in order to do so was 
obliged to keep to the high mountains and unfrequented wilds. 

Travelling thus, with the aid of his compass, sextant, and 
sketch maps, he reached Mansarowar. 

Here five of his followers declined to accompany him any 
farther, so he paid and dismissed them. This was at Tucker. 
Thus Mr. Landor was reduced to a following of four men. He 
went on, however, and had accomplished but three marches 
more when two more of his followers deserted him at night. 
These went off with some of his supplies, all his servants' food, 
and ropes. 

Mr. Landor was now reduced to the following of a. bearer 

212 






APPENDIX 

(Chanden Sing) and a cooiie (Mansing). Despite his misfort- 
unes he determined to push on : his intention appears to have 
been to reach Lhassa. 

He went over the Mariam La Pass.* This attains an altitude 
of over 16,000 feet. 

Meanwhile the deserters had bruited aboui the information of 
Mr. Landor's intention of getting to Lhassa. 

While crossing the Neo Tsambo River one of Mr. Landor's 
yaks went under. The yak was saved, but its valuable load, 
consisting of all the tinned provisions, Rs. 800 in cash, three 
pairs of shoes, one slaughtered sheep, wearing apparel, razors, 
skinning instruments, and some three hundred rifle cartridges, 
was lost. 

This accident was directly the cause of Mr. Landor's capture, 
as he and his two followers, who were footsore, starving, and dis- 
heartened, were driven to seek food and horses from the inhab- 
itants of the country. On the 19th of August, 1897, they went 
to a place called Toxem. The villagers received them well and 
promised to supply them with food and horses. Next morning, 
the 20th idem, a number of Tibetans came to Mr. Landor's tent 
bringing food and ponies, 

While Mr. Landor and his servants were engaged in trying 
and selecting ponies, the crowd increased and came up behind 
its three victims. 

Suddenly, without any warning, the Tibetans rushed on Mr. 
Landor and his two servants and, overwhelming them by num- 
bers, made prisoners of them. They cruelly bound their sur- 
prised victims. Then a number of soldiers (who had lain in am- 
bush) arrived and took over the prisoners. The first person to be 
dealt with was the bearer, Chanden Sing. He was accused of hav- 
ing taken his master into Tibet. He was questioned as to this, and 
also as to the maps and sketches found with Mr. Landor's things. 
I may mention that when the arrests were made the Tibetans took 
all of Mr. Landor's property, which they handled very roughly, 
damaging most of the things. Hearing the Tibetans accuse the 
bearer, Mr. Landor called out that his servant was in no way 
responsible for his having entered Tibet. Thereupon a Lama 

* Maium Pass. 
213 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

struck him (Mr. Landor) a blow on the head with the butt-end 
of his riding - whip. Chanden Sing was then tied down and 
flogged. He received two hundred lashes with whips, wielded 
by two Lamas. Then the prisoners were kept apart for the 
night, bound with cords. Next day Mr. Landor was placed on 
a horse, seated on a spiked pack-saddle. Mansing was put on a 
bare-backed horse. They still were bound. Mr. Landor's arms 
were secured behind his back. Thus they were taken off at a 
gallop towards Galshio. When the party were nearing that 
place they came up with a party of Lamas, awaiting them by 
the roadside. Here Mr. Landor's horse was whipped and urged 
to the front. A kneeling soldier, his musket resting on a prop, 
fired at Mr. Landor as he went past. The shot failed to take ef- 
fect. Then they stopped the pony and fastened a long cord to 
Mr. Landor's handcuffs. The other end was held by a soldier 
on horseback. The party then continued their career, the Lamas 
having fallen in. While proceeding at full gallop, the horseman 
who held the cord attached to Mr. Landor's handcuffs pulled 
hard at it to try and unhorse the latter. Had this occurred Mr. 
Landor must have been trampled to death under the troop of 
horsemen behind him. Thus they hurried onward till they 
neared Galshio,* when at a turn in the road a soldier was seen 
kneeling at the "ready," who fired a shot at Mr. Landor as he 
came abreast of him. This, like the previous shot, missed its 
object. 

Arriving at Galshio, Mr. Landor was torn off his pony. He 
was in a bleeding state, the spikes in the pack-saddle having se- 
verely wounded his back. He asked for a few minutes' respite, 
but was jeeringly told by his guards that it was superfluous, as 
he was to be beheaded in a few minutes. He was then taken, his 
legs stretched as far as they could be forced apart, and then tied 
to the sharp edge of a log shaped like a prism. The cords were 
bound so tightly that they cut into the flesh. 

Then a person named Nerba, the secretary of the Tokchim 
Tarjum, seized Mr. Landor by the hair of his head, and the 
chief official, termed the Pombo, came up with a red-hot iron, 
which he placed in very close proximity to Mr. Landor's eyes. 

* Galshio, or Gyatsho. 
214 



APPENDIX 

The heat was so intense that for some moments Mr. Landor 
felt as if his eyes had been scorched out. It had been placed 
so close that it burned his nose. The Pombo next took a match- 
lock, which he rested on his victim's forehead and then dis- 
charged upwards. 

The shock was consequently very much felt. Handing the 
empty gun to an attendant soldier, the Pombo took a two- 
handed sword. He laid the sharp edge on the side of his vic- 
tim's neck as if to measure the distance to make a true blow. 
Then wielding the sword aloft, he made it whiz past Mr. Lan- 
dor's neck. This he repeated on the other side of the neck. 

After this tragic performance Mr. Landor was thrown to the 
ground, and a cloth put over his head and face to prevent his 
seeing what was being done to his servant Mansing. This must 
have been done to make Mr, Landor believe that Mansing was 
being executed. After a short time the cloth was removed, and 
Mr. Landor beheld his servant, with his legs stretched, tied to 
the same log. Mr. Landor was kept for twenty-four hours in 
this trying position, legs stretched as far as possible and arms 
bound to a pole, and Mansing for twelve hours. To add to 
their misery, they were kept in the rain, and were afterwards 
seated in a pool of water. The effect of this torture was to 
strain the muscles of the legs and arms and injure the spine. 

When Mr. Landor's legs were unloosed from their cords, 
they were so numbed and swollen that for sixteen hours he did 
not recover the use of them and feared they were mortifying. 
Mr. Landor's property was overhauled by the officials of Galshio 
and sealed up. On the afternoon of the third day, at Galshio, 
the two prisoners were taken on foot to Toxem. It was a very 
trying march, inasmuch as several rivers had to be crossed. 

On his arrival at Toxem Mr. Landor saw his bearer, Chanden 
Sing, in a very precarious condition, as the latter had had no 
food for four days. During all this time the prisoners were 
firmly bound and carefully guarded. Next day, Mr. Landor 
and Chanden Sing were placed on yaks. Mansing had to walk. 
Thus they were taken in the direction of Mansarowar Lake. It 
was only on arrival at Mansarowar that his guards unbound Mr. 
Landor. 

Arriving at Dogmar the party were stopped by the Jong Pen 

215 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

of Taklakot, who refused to give them passage through his dis- 
trict. This was a very serious affair, as it meant that the worn- 
out prisoners would have to be taken by a long, circuitous route 
via Gyanima and into India by the Lumpia Pass. This would 
probably have done for them. Owing to the intervention of 
the Rev. Harkua Wilson, of the Methodist Episcopal Mission, 
Peshkdr Kharak Sing Pal and Pundit Gobaria, the most influen- 
tial person among the Bhutias* of Byans, the Jong Pen was 
compelled to withdraw his prohibition and give his sanction to 
the prisoners being conveyed to Taklakot. 

Arriving at this place the prisoners were hospitably received 
by the Rev. Harkua Wilson, who is also a medical man. He 
examined their injuries and attended to them. His statement 
discloses the dreadful condition he found them in. The Tibetan 
guards made over some of Mr. Landor's property to him at 
Taklakot. It was then found that much property had not been 
restored. Mr. Landor had a list drawn up from memory of his 
unrestored property. This list (a copy) was handed to the Jong 
Pen of Taklakot. 

I append the list. The Jong Pen has been called upon to 
restore the missing articles. He urges that the affair did not 
occur in his district, and that he is in no way responsible for the 
loss of the property. 

He has, however, promised to try to recover them, alleging 
that the affair has been reported to a superior authority at Gar- 
tok. From what I could gather here, it seems probable that all 
the missing property, save the money, will be restored. I tried 
to see the Jong Pen, but he pleaded illness and the inutility of 
a meeting in which he had nothing new to disclose. This per- 
sonage is notorious in these parts for his implacable hatred to 
English subjects. 

The account of the affair as given by Mr. Savage Landor is 
fully borne out by his two servants, and, moreover, the Tibetans 
who took part in it did not try to hide it. 

In the Rev. Harkua Wilson's tent at Taklakot, before Peshkdr 
Kharak Sing, Gobaria, and a large number of Bhutias, several 
Tibetan officials corroborated the whole account as related by 

* Bhutias, or Shokas. 
2l6 



APPENDIX 



Mr. Landor. The man Nerba, who had held Mr. Landor's hair 
when about to be beheaded and have his eyes burned out, ad- 
mitted he had taken such part in the affair. There can be no 
doubt that the above account is true and unexaggerated, for the 
whole of Byans and Chaudans are ringing w T ith it. The Jong 
Pen of Taklakot was given ample opportunity to explain the 
affair, but he declined to do so. 

Mr. Savage Landor held Chinese passports, and his conduct 
during his stay in that country did not warrant the officials to 
have treated him in the barbarous, cruel way they did. I satis- 
fied myself, by careful inquiry from the people here, as to how 
Mr. Landor behaved. 

He is said to have been most munificent in his dealings with 
all, and invariably affable and courteous. I had seen Mr. Lan- 
dor just before his entry into Tibet, and when I met him I could 
scarcely recognize him, though he had then fairly recovered 
from the terrible treatment he had received. I saw the marks 
of the cords on his hands and feet, and they are still visible after 
this lapse of time. He complains that he is still suffering from 
the injury done his spine, and fears that it may be of a perma- 
nent nature. 

J. LARKIN. 

October 15, 1897. 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 






All com- 
munica- „ 

tions to rrom 



645 

No. N. 277 A. of 189 



Govern- 
ment 

should give 
the No., 
date, and 
subject of 
any pre- 
vious corre- 
spondence, 
and should 
note the 
Depart- 
ment 
quoted 



Political 
Depart- 
ment. 



The Under-Secretary to Government, N.-W. 
Provinces and Oudh. 



To 



A. H. Savage Landor, Esq., 

c/o Messrs. Grindlay, Groom & Co., 
Bankers, Bombay. 



Dated Allahabad, November 13, 1897. 



Sir, 



In reply to your letter of November 5, I am desired 
to send you a printed copy of depositions recorded by 
Mr. Larkin as noted below : 

1. Of yourself; 2. Of Chanden Sing ; 

3. Of Man Sing ; 4. Of Rev. Harkua Wilson ; 

5. Of Pundit Gobaria; 6. Of Kharak Sing; 
7. Of Suna. 

I have the honor to be, Sir, 

Your most obedient Servant, 

H. N. Wright, 

Under-Secretary to Government, North- 
western Provinces and Oudh. NM. 



APPENDIX 



ALMORA DISTRICT. 

IN THE COURT OF J. LARKIN, Esq., Magistrate of the 

1st class. 

In re The Matter of the Tortures, Robbery, &c:, of A. HENRY 
SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq, and his servants, by the Thi- 
betan Authorities. 

Deposition of Mr. A. Henry Savage Landor ; taken on the 
4th day of October, 1897. Oath administered by me. 

My name is Arnold Henry Savage Landor; my father's name 
is Charles Savage Landor; I am by caste European. British 
subject; by occupation artist and traveller; my home is at Em- 
poli (Calappiano), police station Empoli, district Florence, Tus- 
cany, Italy ; I reside at London. 

Having made up my mind to travel in Turkistan and Thibet, 
for geographical and scientific purposes, as well as to study the 
manners and customs of those people, I obtained a British pass- 
port from the Foreign Office and one from the Chinese Lega- 
tion in London. I had already a passport granted me by the 
Chinese Government through the British Consul at Tientsin, 
China. I also possess letters from Lord Salisbury and the offi- 
cials of the British Museum. I am prepared to submit all these 
for scrutiny. I arrived in India by the P. and O. ss. Peninsular 
about the beginning of April. I travelled rapidly up to Almora. 
I stayed there a short time to make arrangements for my travels 
in Thibet. I entered that country through the Lumpia Lek. I 
kept away from the road and paths, passing over several ranges 
of high mountains, camping at very high altitudes, for nearly 
three weeks. When I started I had thirty men with me. Twen- 
ty-one of them left me when I was only five days in. At Man- 
sarowar Lake five Shokas declined to go any farther. I paid 
them up and they left. It was they who gave the Lamas of 
Tucker information of my intention to go to Lhassa. I had pro- 
ceeded but three marches towards the Maium La Pass when my 

219 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

only two remaining Shokas deserted during the night. They 
carried off all iny stock of provisions for my Hindu servants, 
ropes, straps, &c. My party had now dwindled down to Chan- 
den Sing (bearer) and Man Sing (coolie). The latter was ill; I 
fear he is developing leprosy. His feet were in a very sore and 
cut condition, hence he could scarcely get along. I went over 
the Maium La Pass and followed the course of the Brahmapu- 
tra River for many troublesome marches, until we reached the 
Neo Tsambo (river), in crossing which one of my yaks sank, and 
its load went down and was lost. I tried hard, by diving and 
swimming in this very cold and rapid river, to recover my goods, 
but failed to do so, owing to the depth and muddiness of the 
water. The load contained all my provisions, some clothes, and 
all my shoes, cash rupees eight hundred, my lantern, some am- 
munition, and sundry knives and razors. This misfortune drove 
me to Toxem, which place we reached in a state of starvation. 
It had taken us several days to get there. Owing to the weak, 
fatigued, and starved condition of my two followers, I had to 
seek to get them food and horses, as it was impossible for them 
to get on without horses. I would not desert them, as I might 
have, as I was still prepared to push on despite the many dififi 
culties I had to encounter hourly. Toxem consisted of one mud 
house and an encampment of about eighty tents. The shepherds 
received us kindly and consented to sell me horses and provi- 
sions. I encamped for the night about two miles beyond the 
settlement. During the evening several persons visited my en- 
campment, bringing me gifts of provisions. I invariably gave 
them money in return, certainly three or four times more than 
the value of the articles presented. During the night I was dis- 
turbed several times, and went out into the darkness, but failed 
to discover any one. This, however, was my nightly experience ; 
hence I grew to attach little moment to these noises. In the 
morning (August 20), two or three Thibetans came offering to 
sell me provisions and ponies. While I and my two servants 
were engaged examining and selecting ponies, I noticed that 
numbers of villagers came up one by one, spinning their wool or 
carrying bags of tsamba (meal), while others arrived with more 
ponies. My servants, overjoyed at the hope of getting mounts, 
rode first one pony and then another to suit themselves. Chan- 

220 



APPENDIX 

den Sing, having selected one, called me to see it and try it. I 
walked to the spot, which was about a hundred yards from my 
tent. Naturally I was unarmed. The demeanor of these people 
had been so friendly that it gave me no cause to suspect that any 
treachery was anticipated. While I stood with my hands behind 
my back, enjoying the delight of my long-suffering servants, I 
was suddenly seized from the back by several persons. I was 
seized simultaneously by the neck, arms, wrists, and legs, and 
was thrown down in a prone position. I fought and struggled 
and managed to shake off some of my captors, so that I was 
able to regain my feet ; but others rushed up and I was quickly 
surrounded and overpowered by twenty -five or thirty persons. 
Ropes were thrown around my neck, legs, and body, and thus 
entangled, I was thrown three several times more to the ground. 
I fought with my head, teeth, legs, arms, and succeeded in re- 
gaining my legs four times. They overcame me at last by 
strangling me with the rope which they had thrown round my 
neck. Then they bound me hand, foot, and neck. When I 
had an opportunity to look round, I saw Chanden Sing strug- 
gling against some fifteen or twenty foes. He was quickly en- 
tangled, thrown, and secured by ropes. Even Man Sing, the 
weak and jaded coolie, was overcome by four stout, powerful 
men, though he was not able to offer any resistance. He, too, 
was bound. While we were struggling against our treacherous 
foes, some person gave a signal — a shrill whistle — which brought 
up an ambush of four hundred armed soldiers. These soldiers 
took up a position round us and covered us with their muskets. 
Then they searched us and rifled us of any things we had in our 
pockets. They next proceeded to my tent and took possession 
of everything I possessed. They sealed up my things in bags 
subsequent to having overhauled and examined them. Then 
with shouts and hisses they led us prisoners to Toxem. There 
we were separated, being placed in separate tents. Guards of 
many armed soldiers were placed to watch us. In the afternoon 
of the same day a Pombo (a man in authority), with several high 
Lamas and military officers, held a court under a gaudy tent. I 
saw Chanden Sing led forward to this court. I was led to the 
rear of the mud house to preclude my witnessing the scene. I 
heard Chanden Sing being interrogated in a loud, angry tone and 

221 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

accused of having been my guide. Next I heard Chanden Sing's 
moans and groans. Then a company of soldiers led me before 
this tribunal. I was ordered to kneel, and as I would not do so, 
they tried to compel me to do so by forcing me on my knees. I 
succeeded in maintaining a standing posture. Then I beheld my 
servant, Chanden Sing, lying down, stripped from the waist down- 
ward, in the midst of a number of Lamas and soldiers. I saw 
two stalwart Lamas, one on each side of him, castigating him 
with knotted leather thongs. They were laying on him with 
vigorous arms from his waist to his feet. He was bleeding. As 
I could not be compelled to kneel, I was allowed to sit down 
before the Pombds officer. Then my note -books and printed 
maps were produced, and I was interrogated, first as to the route 
I had taken, then as to why I had drawn my maps and sketches. 
I explained as best I could, partly through my servant, Chanden 
Sing, and partly through an interpreter (a person who styled him- 
self a Gurkha and who knew a little Hindustani. He wore the 
garb of the Thibetan). I explained to the officers that Chanden 
Sing, my servant, did not know the route or anything about the 
maps and sketches ; that I had brought him as my servant, and 
that I alone was responsible for the route taken by me, and for 
the maps and sketches ; that my servant was not to be punished ; 
that I should be if anybody was punishable. Thereupon one of 
the Lamas struck me a hard blow on the head with the butt-end 
of his riding-crop, and they continued to castigate my servant, 
Chanden Sing. I was led away captive, but nevertheless heard 
the moans of my unfortunate servant. It began raining heavi- 
ly, and I was taken to a tent, where I was cruelly bound. Sol- 
diers were placed within and without the tent to guard me. I 
was thus kept the greater part of the night with my arms mana- 
cled behind my back and my legs bound. I was so bound 
that rest or sleep was impossible. The tent was swarming 
with vermin, which quickly covered me; and I may here remark 
that I suffered unspeakable tortures from this pest all the time 
I was in captivity, as I was never permitted to wash, bathe, or 
change my clothes. In the tent my guard lighted a fire of yak's 
dung, and the tent was filled with a suffocating smoke, which 
wellnigh choked me. I was placed near a heap of this stinking 
fuel. I must say that it was a night full of indescribable misery 

222 



APPENDIX 

for me. Though I was fasting all that day and night, yet my 
cruel jailers gave me no food. I was thus kept a prisoner the 
following day until 4 P.M. Then a soldier entered the tent and 
informed me that I was to be flogged, my legs broken, my eyes 
burnt out, and then beheaded. I merely laughed at him ; I 
could not but think that this was said merely to intimidate me. 
Half an hour later another person arrived and signalled to my 
guard to lead me out. Not considering me sufficiently secure 
already, they tightened my bonds and tied others round my body. 
In this fashion I was taken to the sole house (mud one) in the 
encampment. Here an enormous pair of heavy handcuffs were 
put on my hands, which were still kept behind my back. Even 
in this the treachery of my captors was shown, for they patted 
me on the back and called me a good man, and told me I was to 
be taken back to Taklakot. This they said fearing I would re- 
sist. Then, after locking the handcuffs, they made the key over 
to one person, who rode away quickly with it, lest I might possi- 
bly manage to get the key and unlock my handcuffs. For this 
reason I was never permitted to see or know who carried the key. 
Just then I heard the voice of my servant, Chanden Sing, calling 
to me in a very weak tone. He said: " Haznr ! Hazur ! Hum 
murjaiega /" I endeavored to get to the poor wretch's assist- 
ance. Upon my trying to move towards him my several guards 
sprang upon me and ruthlessly grappled me and threw me on to 
the back of a horse. I could only call aloud to my poor servant 
that I was being taken to Taklakot that day, and that he would 
be brought after me the following day. I noticed that Chanden 
Sing was roughly seized and hurled back into one of the rooms 
of the house, so that we could hold no conversation. My other 
servant, Man Sing, had his arms pinioned, and he was put on a 
bare-backed pony. The saddle of the horse I had been thrown 
upon is worthy of description. It was merely the wooden frame 
of a very high-backed saddle. From this high, projecting back 
or crupper four or five sharp iron spikes were sticking out. These 
caught me on the small of my back. My guard was then aug- 
mented by some twenty or thirty mounted soldiers with muskets 
and swords. My pony was held by a horseman, who rode before 
me. We set off at a furious gallop. Thus we travelled for miles 
until we arrived at a spot where the Pombo with a following of 

223 



IN THE, FORBIDDEN LAND 

Lamas, banner-men, and soldiers, some two hundred in all, were 
drawn up. Here my pony was allowed to go on first, and the 
others reined up and drew aside. As I passed before the Pombo 
and his following, a person named Nerba (the Private Secretary 
of the Tokchim Tarjum) deliberately knelt and fixed his musket 
on its rest and fired at me from a few paces. The bullet whizzed 
past me. I was still at a gallop, which no doubt saved my life, 
as the marksman could not take a steady aim. My pony took 
fright and reared and plunged, but I maintained my seat, though 
I was being cruelly pricked by the spikes in the crupper. My 
pony was then seized and a long cord with a swivel at the end 
was fastened to my handcuffs. The cord was about fifty yards 
long. The other end was held by a horseman. In this way we 
all set off at a hard gallop, and in order to accelerate the speed, 
a horseman rode by my side and he lashed my pony furiously to 
make it go at its hardest ; meanwhile the horseman who held the 
cord did his utmost to pull me out of the saddle, so that I would 
have of a certainty been trampled to death by the cohort behind 
me. While thus riding furiously with my arms extended back- 
wards I had the flesh rubbed off my hands and knuckles, so much 
so that the bone was exposed in places, and as the horseman at 
the back tugged to get me off and I clung hard with my knees, 
every tug brought me into forcible contact with the spikes in the 
crupper and wounded me cruelly. The cord was one made of 
yak's hair. It was strong, but it eventually gave way. The shock 
unhorsed the soldier. I was all but thrown. This ludicrous inci- 
dent provoked much mirth among my guards. They stopped 
my pony and the runaway steed of the dismounted cavalier. The 
cord was retied with sundry strong knots, and after an interrup- 
tion of a few minutes we resumed our break-neck gallop, I being 
in front. When nearing Galshio, and as I was going round the 
curve of a sand-hill, a soldier, who had been posted in ambush, 
fired a shot at me from a few paces distant. The shot did not 
strike me. This incident did not stop our headlong career, and 
we continued on until we arrived at Galshio about sunset. This 
was the 2ist August last. At this place there is a large mon- 
astery on the crown of a low hill. At some distance from the 
base of the hill, and on the plain, was pitched the large white 
tent of the Pombo. Our cavalcade drew up there. I was then 

224 



APPENDIX 

roughly torn out of my saddle by two or three men. I requested 
to stop for one moment. My captors refused me this, and, 
roughly thrusting me forward, said that as I was about to be 
beheaded in an instant, it was unnecessary. I was hustled to the 
left front of the tent, where, on the ground, lay a log of wood in 
the shape of a prism. Upon the sharp edge of it I was made to 
stand. I was held by the body by several persons, while others 
pulled my legs as wide apart as they could be stretched. Then 
my feet were very securely tied by cords of yak-hair. The cords 
were so tight that they cut into the flesh in numerous places, 
some of the cuts or wounds being about three inches long. When 
I was thus secured one ruffian (Nerba), whom I have alluded to 
above, came forward and seized me by the hair of my head. He 
pulled my hair as hard as he could. My hair was long, as I had 
not had it cut since the day preceding my departure from London, 
about the middle of March. The others formed up in front of 
me in a semicircle. Then the Pombo arose and was handed a 
bar of iron, which had been made red hot in a brazier, the end 
grasped by the Pombo being bound round with red cloths. He 
strode up to me, urged on by the Lamas, and said, jeeringly, that 
as I had gone to see the country, my punishment would be to 
have my eyes burnt out. This was in allusion to what I had said 
at Toxem — viz., that I was a traveller and merely wished to see 
the country. He then placed the red-hot bar of iron parallel to 
and about an inch and a half or two inches from my eyeballs, and 
all but touching the nose. The heat was so intense that it seemed 
as if my eyes were desiccated and my nose scorched. There is 
still a mark of the burn on my nose. I was forced to shut my 
eyes instinctively. He seemed to me to have kept the bar of 
heated iron before my eyes for fully thirty seconds or so. After 
some moments I opened my eyes and beheld the hot iron on the 
ground. I saw him take a musket from the hands of one of the 
soldiers standing by. He placed this against my forehead and 
discharged it upwards, giving me a severe shock, though nothing 
worse. Handing back the discharged weapon to the soldier, the 
Pombo seized his long two-handed sword and came at me. He 
swung it from side to side, all the time foaming from his mouth. 
This foaming, I believe, was produced artificially. He then 
motioned to the man who all this time held me by the hair of 
43 225 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

my head to bend my neck. I resisted with all my might to keep 
my head erect. Then the Pombo touched my neck with the 
sharp blade of his sword as if to measure the distance for a clean, 
effective stroke. Then he raised the sword and made a blow at 
me with all his might. The sword passed disagreeably close to 
my neck, but did not touch me. I did not flinch ; and my cool, 
indifferent demeanor seemed to impress him, so much so that he 
seemed reluctant to continue his diabolical performance; but the 
posse of Lamas urged him on by gesticulations and vociferous 
shouts. Thereupon he went through the same performance on 
the other side of my neck. This time the blade passed so near 
that I felt that the blow had not been more than half an inch 
from my neck. This terminated the sword exercise, much to the 
disgust of the Lamas, who still continued to urge the swordsman 
on. Then they held an excited consultation. About this time 
my coolie, Man Sing, who had frequently fallen off his bare- 
backed pony, arrived. The person who held my hair then re- 
linquished his hold, and another person came up and gave me 
a forcible push, which gave me a nasty fall on my back, 
straining all the tendons of my legs. Then my servant, Man 
Sing, was brought forward and tied by his legs to the same 
log of wood to which I was fastened. Then they made it 
appear that they were going to behead Man Sing. I was 
pushed up into a sitting posture and a cloth thrown over my 
head and face, so that I could not see what was being enacted. 
I heard Man Sing groan, and I concluded he had been despatched. 
I was left in this terrible suspense for about a quarter of an 
hour. Then the cloth was removed, and I beheld my servant 
lying before me bound to the log. We both asked for food. 
This seemed to amuse our torturers, for they laughed. In 
the meanwhile the day was beginning to wane, and our jailers 
made us understand that our execution was merely put off to the 
following day. After some time tsamba (meal) and tea were 
brought in, and it was stuffed into our mouths by our captors. 
We were kept out in the open without any shelter from the pour- 
ing rain. We were sitting in one or two inches of rain and were 
drenched and numbed with cold. I have already said my hands 
were manacled from the back ; so also were Man Sing's. But at 
nightfall our captors increased our tortures by straining our man- 

226 



APPENDIX 

acled arms upwards as high as they could be forced, and then se- 
cured them to an upright pole at the back. This caused very se- 
vere pain, straining the spine in an incredible way. Then they tied 
a cord from Man Sing's neck to rr)ine, the effect of which was to 
make us maintain a most painful position. A guard encircled us, 
and with them were two watch-dogs tied to pegs. The guard 
were apparently so confident of our not being able to escape that 
they drew their heavy blankets over their heads and slept. One 
of them left his sword lying by his side. This made me conceive 
the daring plan to try to escape. Knowing the extremely sup- 
ple nature of my hands, I succeeded in drawing the right hand 
out of my handcuffs. After an hour's anxious and stealthy work 
I managed to unloose Man Sing's bonds round his feet. In his 
joy at feeling partly free, Man Sing moved his legs rather clum- 
sily, which the vigilant watch-dogs detected and gave the alarm 
by barking. The guard were aroused. They went and fetched 
a light and examined our fastenings. I had succeeded in replac- 
ing my hand inside the handcuff. They found Man Sing's bonds 
loose, and, giving him a few cuts with a whip, warned him that 
if he undid them again they would decapitate him, and refast- 
ened them. Then they placed the light between us and put a 
shelter overhead to prevent the rain extinguishing the light. At 
about 6 or 7 A.M. the following day they undid Man Sing's feet. 
I was kept all that day until sunset in the same uncomfortable 
and painful posture. Thus I was kept fully twenty-four hours. 
During the day my property had been overhauled and sealed. 
One of the Lamas picked up my Henri-Martini rifle and put a 
cartridge in the breach, but failed to push it home firmly. He 
then discharged the gun. The muzzle of the barrel burst and 
the face of the Lama was much injured thereby. I laughed 
heartily at this, and this apparently amused the Pombo, for he, 
too, joined in. About half an hour after this incident my feet 
were untied. It was then sunset. I found I had lost the use of 
my feet. It took my right foot some two or three hours before 
the blood began to circulate freely, but my left foot remained 
like dead until the following day. That night my feet were se- 
cured by cords. A bowl of some boiling, steaming liquid, which 
I was informed was tea, was presented to me to drink. The 
eagerness of the surrounding Lamas that I should partake of it 

227 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

aroused my suspicion. When it was pushed up to my lips I 
merely sipped it and declined it. After a short time I felt most 
sharp, excruciating pains in my stomach, which continued for 
several days. I could not but conclude that the drink proffered 
had been poisoned. The following day Man Sing and I were 
led back on foot to Toxem, our jailers riding on horses. We 
had to go at a great speed despite our severely lacerated feet. 
We crossed several cold streams, sinking in mud and water to 
the waist. At Toxem, to my great delight, I beheld Chanden 
Sing still alive. We were detained there for that night. On the 
following day we were placed on yaks' backs and hurried off tow- 
ards Taklakot. Thus we journeyed at an unpleasantly fast pace 
for fifteen days, from before daybreak to nightfall. Our guards 
were bent on taking us via the Lumpia Pass ; but as this meant 
a long, protracted journey of fifteen or sixteen days, over ice and 
snow, I knew that we would, in our starved, weakened state, 
succumb. We were all but naked. This was a day's journey 
on this side of Mansarowar, where our bonds had been unloosed. 
We rebelled, and it wellnigh ended in a fight, but our guards 
consented to halt at Dogmar, until they sent to inquire if the 
Jong Pen of Taklakot would give us passage through his juris- 
diction. After much demur we were eventually taken to Takla- 
kot. This arrangement, I subsequently learnt, was entirely due to 
the good offices and energy of the Political Peshkdr Kharak Sing 
Pal, Rev. H. Wilson, and Pundit Gobaria. On arriving at Takla- 
kot we hastened to Rev. Harkua Wilson's tent, where we were 
warmly received, attended to, fed, and clothed. My injuries 
were examined by the Rev. Harkua Wilson, who is a hospital 
assistant, and who will be able to depose to their nature and ex- 
tent. In this gentleman's tent, and in the hearing of several 
persons, among whom were Peshkdr Kharak Sing, Rev. H. Wil- 
son, and Pundit Gobaria, the man Nerba, above mentioned, the 
Toxem Tarjum, and the Jong Pen's secretary, and also Lapsang, 
chief secretary to the Jong Pen, admitted that my account of 
the affair was perfectly true. Some of my property, more or 
less damaged, was then restored me by the Tokchim Tarjum. 
I then gave him two lists, one showing articles restored me, and 
the other the articles missing. The Peshkdr Kharak Sing has 
copies of the lists. 1 was in a very weak state, very exhausted 

228 



APPENDIX 

through what I had suffered and little food. It was due to the 
kind, liberal, and attentive care and treatment of the Rev. H. 
Wilson and Peshkdr Kharak Sing Pal that I recovered. The 
few ragged clothes I had on were literally swarming with lice, 
as I had no change of raiment, nor was I ever allowed to wash. 
I contracted the vermin from the tents I was kept in and also 
from my guards who at first slept round me. 

Read over to witness. J. LARKIN. 

A. Henry Savage Landor 



Deposition of Chanden Sing, taken on the gth day of October, 

1897. 

Solemn affirmation administered by me. 

My name is Ch mden Sing; my father's name is Bije Singh; 
I am by caste Thatola ; thirty-two years of age ; by occupation 
kheti ; my home is at That, police station Bisot, district Almora. 

I took service as a bearer with Mr. Landor at Almora on the 
27th or 28th April last. I accompanied him on his trip to Thi- 
bet. We went along through the wilds, encountering many hard- 
ships and reached Toxem. There I insisted on my master buying 
ponies to take us to Darjeeling. This resulted in our capture, 
for up to then we had vigilantly kept away from the people. 
The people who brought us ponies to buy played us false. They 
informed the authorities, who sent soldiers, who lay in ambush 
behind the sandhills until the crowd of horse-dealers and look- 
ers-on, whom we did not suspect of treachery, surrounded and 
seized us. We were bound with cords by the arms (at back) and 
legs. My master was more cruelly tied than we two servants. 
We were taken to the Raja,* who accused me of having brought 
my master into the country. I was then stretched out and two 
strong men with whips inflicted two hundred stripes on me. I 
was questioned as to the maps. My master called out that he, 
not I, alone understood them, and asked that I should not be 
beaten. Thereupon a Lama struck him across the head and re- 
moved him to a distance, so that I could not communicate with 

* Raja, or King. 
229 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

him. They took all our property. Then we were kept separate 
for the night. I was put in a room and my hands tied to a pole. 
I could not sleep with the pain I was in. Next day my master, 
with his hands tied behind his back, was put on a spiked saddle 
and tied by a long rope held by a horseman. He went at a gal- 
lop surrounded by about fifty horsemen armed with guns and 
swords. Man Sing, our coolie, was also taken with him. My 
guards informed me my master was to be decapitated at Galshio, 
and that I was to be beheaded where I was. On the fourth or 
fifth day my master returned. Meanwhile I was a close prison- 
er, bound up without food. When I saw my master he was in a 
pitiful state. He was handcuffed with enormous cuffs, clothes 
torn to rags, bleeding from his waist, feet and hands swollen. 
Next day a guard on horseback took us back, bound as we were, 
on yaks' backs, towards Mansarowar. There I had my cords un- 
loosed. My master was kept bound until we got to Tangchim. 
We were eventually taken to Taklakot, where the Rev. Harkua 
Wilson met us and saw our condition. He attended to our 
wants. My master was wellnigh at death's door. The Thi- 
betans returned some of my master's property, but they have 
kept about 475 rupees in cash, two rifles, revolver, two files, a 
lot of soap, medicine, a butterfly dodger, matches, a box of 
mathematical instruments, a quantity (400) cartridges, a large box 
of photographic plates and negatives, three bags. We did not 
molest any one, and paid more than four times the value for 
any food we bought. 

Read over to witness. J. LARKIN. 

Deposition of Man Sing, taken on the gth day of October, 
1897. Solemn affirmation administered by Pandit Krish- 
nanand. 

My name is Man Sing ; my father's name is Sohan Sing ; I am 
by caste Pharswal ; twenty -five years of age; by occupation 
kheti ; my home is at Sileri, police station Bichla Kattyur, dis- 
trict Almora. 

I accompanied Mr. Savage Landor into Thibet. We were 
surrounded and arrested at Toxem while bargaining and select- 
ing ponies. I was tied up hand and foot, and again tied to a 

230 



APPENDIX 

log of wood with my master. When I begged for mercy, they 
threatened to behead me and struck me on the head with the 
handle of a kukri. We were taken to Galshio. There the Thi- 
betans were on the point of beheading my master. They tried 
to burn out his eyes. They fired at him twice to kill him. They 
tried to pull him off his horse to have him trampled upon. He 
was subjected to many insults and hardships. We were kept 
bound and guarded until brought to Mansarowar. There our 
hands were untied. Chanden Sing was with us. He received 
about two to three hundred lashes atToxem. I got off most light- 
ly, as when the three of us were captured and examined, I said 
I was merely the yak driver, and not responsible for anything. 
I lost nothing, but they took my master's property — three fire- 
arms, some money, and other things ; I cannot enumerate them. 
We were brought back to Taklakot, where we met friends. My 
master was made to sit on a spiked saddle and taken from Toxem 
to Galshio. 

Read over to witness. 

J. Larkin. 



Deposition of the Rev. Harkua Wilson, taken on the gth 

day of October, 1897. Oath administered by me. 

My name is Harkua Wilson. By caste Christian; forty -six 
years of age ; by occupation missionary ; my home is at Dwara- 
hat, police station M. Dwara, district Almora. I reside at Gunji, 
Byans. 

I am a missionary in the American Methodist Episcopal Society. 
My work is in the northern pattis or Bhot. I accompanied Mr. 
Savage Landor in July last as far as Gyanima in Thibet. We 
went through the Lumpia Pass. It took us four days from 
Lumpiya to get to Gyanima. At this place the Barkha Tarjam 
declined to allow me to go on, but he allowed Mr. Landor (who 
was said to be my brother) with four porters and three servants 
to go on ; but the following day he withdrew this permission. 
We then returned three marches. At midnight in a snow-storm 
Mr. Landor went up the mountains, determining to go through 
Thibet by the wilds. He had with him nine followers. He 

231 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

was then in perfect health and strength, and so were his follow- 
ers. At the end of August I heard that Mr. Landor had been 
arrested, and, fearing the Thibetans would kill him, I hastened 
to Taklakot to do my utmost to save him. There I learnt 
that Mr. Landor and his two servants were being brought back. 
Hearing that it was the intention of the Thibetans to take them 
via the Lumpia, I, with Pandit Gobaria, Jai Mai, and Lata, in- 
duced the Jong Pen of Taklakot to allow Mr. Landor to be 
brought to Taklakot. On the evening of 7th September Pesh- 
kdr Kharak Sing arrived there. At about 1 1 A.M. on the 8th 
September Mr. Landor, Chanden Sing, and Man Sing arrived. 
I took them to my tent and heard their account of what had 
happened. I could hardly recognize Mr. Landor; he looked 
very ill and seemed nearly exhausted. I examined his injuries 
and found that his forehead had the skin off and was covered 
with scabs. His cheeks and nose were in the same state. His 
hair had grown long. He was unshaven and unkempt. He 
was in rags and dirty, covered with swarms of lice. His hands, 
fingers, and wrists were swollen and wounded. On his spine at 
the waist he had an open sore, and the parts around were swol- 
len and red. His seat was covered with marks of wounds caused 
by spikes. His feet were swollen, and so were his ankles. The 
flesh about the latter was much hurt and contused, showing 
marks of cords having been tightly bound round them. He was in 
a very low condition. I attended to him, having given him a bath 
and a change of clothes. I gave him food, but though he said 
he was famished, he could scarcely eat. I am confident, if he 
had been a few days longer in the hands of the Thibetans and 
had been taken via Lumpia, he would have died. After half an 
hour the Thibetans brought some of Mr. Landor's things under 
seal. Some of the Thibetan officials on one side, Peshkdr Khar- 
ak Sing and Gobaria and myself on the other, made out a list of 
the property, which we took over, and a list was prepared of the 
articles taken from Mr. Landor and which were missing. Mr. 
Landor dictated the list from memory. Copies of these lists 
were furnished to the Jong Pen. I kept Mr. Landor at Takla- 
kot until the afternoon of the nth September. Then I con- 
veyed him by easy stages to Gunji, where I have a dispensary, 
and attended to him. I am a hospital assistant. I sent off re- 

232 



APPENDIX 

ports to the Commissioner and Deputy Commissioner. Chanden 
Sing and Man Sing were also in a wretched state. The former 
had marks of recent flogging from his waist to above his ankles. 
Read over to witness. 

J. Larkin. 



Deposition of Pandit Gobaria, taken on the ijth day of 
October, 1897. Solemn affirmation administered by Pandit 
Krishnanand. 

My name is Gobaria ; my father's name is Jaibania ; I am by 
caste Garbial ; forty-eight years of age; by occupation trader; 
my home is at Garbyang, police station Byans, district Almora. 

I heard that Mr. Landor had been arrested and brought down 
as far as Rungu, and saw that the Jong Pen of Taklakot was 
sending men to divert Mr. Landor by the long roundabout 
route via the Lumpia Pass. I went to the Jong Pen and suc- 
ceeded in getting him to allow Mr. Landor to be brought to 
Taklakot. Next morning Mr. Landor and his two servants 
with two yaks arrived. Mr. Landor wa£ in a very bad state 
— in a dying state. A list of Mr. Landor's property as re- 
ceived from the Tokchim Tarjum was made. Then Mr. Lan- 
dor had a list of things taken from him and not returned made 
out. A Thibetan named Nerba, who was present, admitted 
that he had taken part in Mr. Landor's torture and had held him 
by the hair. The official who had tortured Mr. Landor was the 
Galjo Changjo and a Lama. 

Read over to witness. J. LARKIN. 



Deposition of the Political Peshkar Kharak Sing, 
taken on the gth day of October, 1 897. Solemn affirmation 
administered by me. 

My name is Kharak Sing; my father's name is Gobind Sing; 
I am by caste Pal ; twenty-six years of age ; by occupation 
Peshkar ; my home is at Askot, police station Askot, district 
Almora. 

233 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

I am the Political Peshkdr at Garbyang in Byans. I knew and 
reported that Mr. Henry Savage Landor had gone into Thibet. 
On the 5th September I learnt from Bhotias that he had 
been stopped at Toxem, and reported it. I then proceeded 
to Taklakot, in Thibet, to inquire into the matter. On the 
7th September, at Taklakot, I learnt that Mr. Landor was 
a prisoner at Dogmar, and that the Jong Pen would not 
permit his being brought into Taklakot, as this meant that 
Mr. Landor would have to go to Gyanima and via the Lumpia 
Lek. I then insisted on the Jong Pen allowing Mr. Landor a 
passage to Taklakot, and warned him of the consequences if he 
declined. The Jong Pen consented, but gave orders that Mr. 
Landor should be conveyed hurriedly by night through Taklakot 
to the Lippu Lek. I protested against this, and eventually Mr. 
Landor, on 8th September, was conveyed into Taklakot. The 
Jong Pen had sent two sawdrs to his guard to admit them. In 
the Rev. Harkua Wilson's tent Mr. Landor related how he had 
been tortured. There w r ere several of the Thibetans present 
who had taken part in the tortures, and they signified that all 
of Mr. Landor's story was true. Among them was Nerba, of 
Thokchim Tarjum, who admitted that he had held Mr. Landor 
by the hair when about to be beheaded, and had cut the nails 
of his fingers and toes. He admitted he had taken a gold 
ring from Mr. Landor, which a soldier had taken from him. I 
made a report of all this and sent (1) a list of Mr. Landor's prop- 
erty restored him by the Thibetans and (2) a list of articles 
missing. I know Mr. Landor had two rifles and a revolver 
when he went into Thibet and a considerable amount of money. 
Mr. Landor was in a very critical position ; he was past recogni- 
tion. He was wounded on the face, body, hands, and legs. I 
went to the Jong Pen and protested at the treatment given Mr. 
Landor. The former boldly admitted that Mr. Landor had 
been treated as alleged, and that it was their duty to act so. 
The Jong Pen promised to try and have Mr. Landor's missing 
property restored to him. I know he wrote off to the Garban 
of Gartok about orders issuing to the Toxem Tarjum. He has 
engaged to send me anything recovered. 

Read over to witness. J. Larkin. 

234 



APPENDIX 



Deposition of Suna, taken on the 14th day of October, 1897. 
Solemn affirmation administered by me. 

My name is Suna ; my father's name is Gandachiju ; I am by 
caste Khumhar ; forty-two years of age ; by occupation trader ; 
my home is at Gunji, police station Byans, district Almora. 

I saw Mr. Landor and his two servants as prisoners about 
one and a half month ago, this side of the Mansarowar Lake. 
Mr. Landor and Chanden Sing were on yaks; Man Sing on foot. 
They were well guarded. Tunda and Amr Sing were with me. 
They went on ahead to Taklakot while I stayed back with the 
sheep. They went to inform the Rev. Harkua Wilson of the 
capture. I saw Mr. Landor detained at Dogmar. 

Read over to witness. J. LARKIN. 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



Statement of property confiscated by the Tibetan authorities, and 
recovered some months later by the Government of India. 

189 . 
DEPARTMENT 



Revolver, 1. 

Jewel ring, 1. 

Cash — 68/12/ — in eight -anna 

pieces. 
Cartridges for rifles, no. 
Rifles, 2 (1 damaged). 
Cartridges for pistol, 37. 
Cleaning-rods for rifles, 2. 
Cover for rifle, 1. 

revolver, 1. 
Leather strap, 1. 
Net to catch butterflies, 1. 



B. R. Regr. No. 27 
Dept. XXII. B.— 
1,00,000 of 1896. 



P.N0.2131 
1 1-9-96- 
P. D. 



From 

H. K. Gracey, Esq., C.S., 
The Deputy Commissioner of A l- 

mora, 
To 

A. H. Savage Landor, Esq., 
c/o Grindlay, Groom & Co. 

Bombay. 
Dated 10th December ) 

1 18 97 
Received ) 

897 



File No. 



No. XXII. of 1897. 



Serial No. 



File Heading. 

Property of Mr. H. Savage 

Landor. 

SUBJECT. 
Has the honour to inform him 
that his marginally noted arti- 
cles have been received by the 
Political Peshkar of Garbiang 
from the Jong-pong of Takla- 
kote. 

W. Smith, C.S. y for 
H. K. Gracey, C.S., 
Deputy Commissioner, A I mora. 
W. J. W. 



236 



APPENDIX 

Certificate front Dr. WlLSON. 

Dharchula Byas, Bhot. 

I herewith certify that I accompanied Mr. A. Henry Savage Lan- 
dor in his ascent up the Mangshan Mountain, and that Mr. Lan- 
dor and a Rongba coolie reached an altitude of 22,000 (twenty- 
two thousand) feet. Owing to the rarefied air, I and the other 
men accompanying Mr. Landor were unable to go as far as he 
did. Mr. Landor was at the time carrying on him a w r eight of 
thirty seers (60 lbs.), consisting of silver rupees, two aneroids, 
cartridges, revolver, &c. During the whole time I travelled 
with Mr. Landor he always carried the above weight on him, 
and generally carried his rifle besides (j\ lbs. extra). We all 
suffered very much during the ascent, as the incline was very 
steep, and there was deep snow and much troublesome debris. 

I also certify that I took many photographs* of Mr. Landor 
and his two servants after they were released, and Mr. Landor 
looked then very old and suffering, owing to starvation and the 
wounds that had been inflicted upon him by the Tibetans. 

(Signed). H. WlLSON, 

In charge of Bhot Dispensaries, 
American Methodist Episcopal Mission. 

Dharchula, April 27, 1898. 
Dear Mr. Landor: 

Do you remember the night when we separated near Lama 
Chokden in Tibet, you to proceed towards Lhassa, and I to re- 
turn to India? 

I have in my lifetime seen few such fierce snow-storms. The 
storm had been raging the whole day and night, and the wind 
was blowing so hard that we could not hear each other speak. I 
can only recollect with horror at the dreadful anxiety I was in 
when you, with a handful of men, escaped from the Tibetan 
soldiers watching us, and in the dark, fearful night proceeded 
to take your men up the mountain range, with no path, and 
among loose stones and boulders, a way, indeed, not even fit 
for goats. 

* N.B, — Reproductions of some of the photographs mentioned are given 
in this booK. 

237 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

That night, I well remember, you were carrying a weight 
much greater than the one you usually carried, thirty seers (60 
lbs.), for when you left the tent you had in your hand a small 
bag with 200 extra silver rupees, and you carried your revolver, 
your rifle, and some extra ammunition. I assure you that I 
look back with amazement at how you succeeded in pulling 
through the dangers and difficulties of that night alone. 

Yours sincerely, 
(Signed) H. Wilson. 

American Methodist Episcopal Mission, 

Dr. H. Wilson's Statement. 

I herewith certify that, having heard at Gungi (Byas) that Mr. 
A. Henry Savage Landor, after losing all his provisions in a 
large river, had been captured by the Tibetans at Toxem and 
had there been tortured, I proceeded to Taklakot (Tibet) in the 
hope of obtaining further news. At Taklakot the news was con- 
firmed, and I heard that Mr. Landor and two servants were 
brought back under a strong guard. Some uncertainty prevailed 
as to what route he would be made to follow, and efforts were 
made by the Tibetans to make him proceed by the long, cold, 
and dangerous route via the Lumpiya Pass, instead of by the 
shorter and easier route via Taklakot. We heard that Mr. Lan- 
dor and his two men were in very poor health owing to the ill 
treatment by the Tibetans, and no doubt the long journey over 
ice and snow by the Lumpiya Pass left but little chance of their 
reaching Gungi alive. At the request of Jaimal Bura, Latto 
Bura, and myself, Pundit Gobaria despatched a man to the Jong 
Pen at Kujer to explain that we would be thankful and would 
consider it a great kindness if he would allow Mr. Landor to 
travel through Taklakot. At last, after much trouble, our re- 
quest was granted. The officer who brought us the news in- 
formed us that Mr. Landor would be made to pass through Tak- 
lakot at night, and conveyed directly over the Lippu Pass. The 
Political Peshkar Kharak Sing Pal arrived in Taklakot that day 
from India, and we held a consultation. We agreed to keep a 
watchman in the road all night, but Mr. Landor did not go by. 
In the afternoon of the 8th, Mr. Landor and his two men ar. 

238 



APPENDIX 

rived. They had been rifled of all they possessed and their 
clothes were torn and dirty. Mr. Landor and the two men 
looked very ill and suffering, Mr. Landor's face being hardly 
recognizable. He and his bearer Chanden Sing gave us an ac- 
count of the tortures that had been inflicted upon them at Tox- 
em and Galshio, and Mr. Landor showed the Peshkar Kharak 
Singh, Pundit Gobaria, myself and many Bhotiyas (Shokas) 
twenty-two wounds on his spine, feet, and hands received from 
the Tibetans. Chanden Sing, who had been administered two 
hundred lashes, showed numerous black marks and open sores 
where the skin had been torn on both legs. From the Lamas 
and soldiers who had been present at Mr. Landor's arrest and 
tortures I heard the following account. 

An ambush had been laid, and Mr. Landor and his bearer 
were caught by treachery when some hundred and fifty yards 
away from their tent, inside which were the rifles and revolver. 
They made a desperate resistance and fought for over fifteen 
minutes, struggling to get at their weapons. Thirty men were 
on Mr. Landor and twelve or fifteen held Chanden Sing, while 
four hundred soldiers armed with matchlocks and swords, and 
who had kept hidden behind sand-hills, quickly surrounded them. 
They were tightly bound with ropes round the neck, chest, and 
legs, and the arms were pinioned behind their backs. Chanden 
Sing received two hundred lashes that same day. Mr. Landor 
and Mansing were taken to Galshio three days later. Ponies 
were provided for them, Mansing riding bareback, while the 
wooden frame of a saddle was provided for Mr. Landor, the 
frame having several iron spikes sticking out of it in the back 
part of it. During the long ride to Galshio these nails produced 
several wounds on Mr. Landor's spine and back. Efforts were 
made, by means of a rope attached to his handcuffs, to pull him 
off the saddle and have him trodden to death by the hundreds 
of ponies of the Lamas, soldiers, and officers that came full-gallop 
behind. Moreover, two shots were fired at Mr. Landor. Man- 
sing, unable to use his hands, that were bound, fell many times 
off his steed and remained some two miles behind. When Gal- 
shio was reached Mr. Landor was pulled off his saddle, and they 
told him that his head would be cut off immediately. Dragged 
mercilessly by soldiers, he was taken to a wooden log. Here 

239 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

they stretched his legs wide apart, and his feet were made fast 
on the cutting edge of the log by means of tightly bound ropes 
that cut into his flesh. Then while an officer held him in a 
standing position by the hair of his head, a hot iron was passed 
in front of his eyes and a matchlock laid on his forehead and 
fired. Lastly, the head Lama approached with a long sword qnd 
swung it right and left close to Mr. Landor's neck, as if about to 
cut off the head. Mr. Landor remained composed and spoke 
no words. After some twenty minutes Mansing arrived, and 
was tied to the same log in front of Mr. Landor, and pretence 
was made to behead Mansing, Mr. Landor's face having been 
covered with a cloth. The Lamas professed to have been very 
astonished when, after having tied the prisoners' hands high up 
to poles behind them, Mr. Landor asked for some tzamba (oat- 
meal), meat, and rice, and Mansing for some butter. 

The amazement of the Tibetans appears to have been even 
greater when food was brought and Mr. Landor and Mansing 
partook heartily of it and asked for more. Mr. Landor was kept 
chained to the log for twenty-four hours, Mansing twelve hours. 
When they were brought back to Toxem they found that Chan- 
den Sing had been kept four days tied hands and feet to an up- 
right post, and he had been given no food. 

At Taklakot an officer (called Nerba) confessed in my own 
tent, and before Pundit Gobaria and the Political Peshkar 
Kharak Sing, that he himself had held Mr. Landor by the hair 
when he was about to be beheaded. He had also fired a shot at 
Mr. Landor, and had moreover been ordered by the Lamas to 
cut off Mr. Landor's toe and finger nails, as well as a lock of his 
hair. The Taklakot Lamas and the Tokchim Tarjum professed 
to be sorry at the Galshio Lamas having behaved in such a 
cruel manner. 

At Taklakot we made a list of Mr. Landor's property that 
was still missing, and we gave a copy to the Jong Pen and one 
to the Tokchim Tarjum, that they may try to recover what they 
can. 

(Signed) Harkua Wilson, 

Methodist Episcopal Mission, 
Gungi Byas Bhot, Darma, Sept. 21, 1897. 

240 



APPENDIX 



Dr. H. Wilson's Certificate of A. Henry Savage Landor's 

injuries and wounds. 

Taklakot, Tibet, Sept. 8, 1897. 

I herewith certify that I have examined the wounds that Mr. 
A. Henry Savage Landor received during his imprisonment at 
Galshio in Tibet. 

There are five large sores along the spinal column, and the 
spine itself has sustained severe injuries. At the time they 
were inflicted these wounds must have caused profuse bleeding. 

The feet bear the marks of cruel treatment. On the right 
foot are still well visible to-day (nineteen days after wounds were 
inflicted) six wounds, viz. : 

On the heel one wound one inch long; 
Outside ankle " half inch long ; 
Front of ankle " one inch long; 
Top of foot, three inches above the toes, one wound one 

and a half inch long. 
Two small wounds on the upper part of foot. 

On the left foot the four wounds are of a very severe char- 
acter, and were produced by ropes cutting into the flesh. 

One nasty wound above heel, two and a half inches long. 
One wound below the ankle, one and one-fourth of an inch 

long. 
One wound three inches above the toes, two inches long. 
One " on the heel, half an inch long. 

These wounds have caused the feet to be much swollen, the 
left foot especially having been considerably injured. Its 
strained tendons give still intense pain when touched, and the 
foot is very heavy, inflamed, and swollen. 

On the left hand there are five wounds. 

On middle finger a wound one inch long and deep to the 

bone. 
On root of middle finger, a wound half an inch long. 
«* 241 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

On small finger a wound one-fourth of an inch long. 

On third 

On first " " half an inch long. 

The four fingers are still very swollen. 

On the right hand there are only two wounds. 

The first, one-half inch long, on the upper side of the hand. 
The second, a quarter of an inch long on the second finger. 

Both hands are aching and much swollen, and the wounds 
upon them were evidently produced by the heavy iron chain of 
the handcuffs. 

On arrival at Taklakot (nineteen days after having been tort- 
ured) Mr. Landor is still suffering from strong fever caused by 
his wounds, and no doubt when they were fresh these must have 
given Mr. Landor intense pain. His health and strong constitu- 
tion seem altogether shattered by the sufferings he has under- 
gone. 

His face, hands, and feet are very swollen, and he appears ex- 
tremely weak ; he himself attributed his great exhaustion to 
having been unable to sleep for nineteen consecutive nights on 
account of the bad sores on the spine and legs and because of 
the heavy iron chains with which he was laden. 

H. Wilson, 
Hospital Assistant, Methodist Episcopal Mission, 

Gungi Byas Bhol Darma. 

N. B. — The numerous smaller wounds, burns, &c, on the face 
and body are not taken into account. 

A copy of this report was despatched from Dr. Wilson direct 
to the Deputy Commissioner, and was forwarded to the Govern- 
ment of India. 

Dr. H. Wilson's Certificate of Chanden Sing's injuries. 

Taklakot, Sept. 8, 1897. 
I herewith certify that I have examined Chanden Sing, Mr. A. 
Henry Savage Landor's servant who accompanied him to Tibet, 
where they were arrested and tortured. Chanden Sing has visi- 
ble to this day on both his legs, and twenty-one days after they 

242 



APPENDIX 

were inflicted, innumerable black marks produced by flogging. 
So severely appears the punishment to have been administered 
that large patches of skin and flesh have been torn off by the 
lashing. Chanden Sing is now in very poor health, and it is evi- 
dent by his appearance that he suffers greatly from the tortures 
and ill-treatment received at the hands of the Tibetans. 

H. Wilson, 
Hospital Assistant, Methodist Episcopal Mission. 

Gungi Byas, Bhot, Darma. 

A copy of this was sent by Dr. Wilson to the Deputy Com- 
missioner at Almora, and was forwarded to the Government of 
India. 



Certificate by MlSS M. A. SHELDON, M.D., of the Methodist 

Episcopal Mission. 

M. E. Mission, 

Khela P. O. Dist. Almora. 
East Kumaon, Bhot. 

" All at it and always at it."— Wesley. 

Sept. 28, 1897. 

This is to certify that I have seen the wounds inflicted upon 

Mr. Landor by the Tibetans. It is now about forty days since 

he was bound and tortured. The wounds are healing well. The 

scars upon his hands caused by being bound with chains behind 

] his back are plainly visible. 

The feet show even more clearly the results of inhuman bind- 
ing and torture. The wounds have not yet entirely healed, and 
there is much discoloration. One foot is still swollen. 

I have not seen the wounds upon his spine inflicted by a tort- 
uring saddle, but he complains of much pain and soreness in 
that region. 

(Signed) Martha A. Sheldon, M.D. 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Certificate from DOCTOR TURCHINI, a Director of the Royal 
Hospital of S. M, Nuova, Florence, Italy. 



D. D. 



C. 50 



Stamp R. ARCISPEDALE DI S. M. NUOVA, 

Gabinetto 
Elettro-Terapico 

DlREZIONE, 
FlRENZE. 

FlRENZE, 12 Febbraio, 1898. 

II sottoscritto Medico Primario Direttore del Turno e Gabi- 
netto elettro-terapico del R° Arcispedale di S. Maria Nuova 
dichiara quanto appresso: nel mese di Dicembre appena giunto 
in questa Citta visito il Sig re Henry Savage Landor e lo trovo 
affetto=: 

Da retinite all' occhio sinistro con suffusione dei mezzi tras- 
parenti, e da grave iperemia retinica all' occhio destro. La vista 
era abolita a sinistra, aiminnita a destra = 

La colonna vertebrale era dolente, se leggermente compressa 
con un dito, o se appena percossa col martello da percussione il 
dolore si faceva intenso, acuto specialmente nelle regioni lombare 
e dorsale. La deambulazione non era libera ma incerta, la fun- 
zionalita degli sfinteri molto difettosa per cui difficolta della 
mizione e delle evacuazio.ni. 

Presentava poi delle chiazze ecchimobili sopra-malleolari e 
sopra-carpiche. L'aspetto suo generale era di persona soffer- 
ente e molto anemica. Fatte le cure che il caso del Sig re 
Landor reclamava, oggi 12 Febbraio notiamo ; air occhio 
destro risoluta la iperemia retinica, aumentato il campo visivo, 
occhio che serve discretamente alia sua funzione ; air occhio si- 
nistro e molto turbata la circolazione endoculare e quivi la fun- 
zione visiva non e ristabilita ; non vede gli oggetti e tutto gli fa 
confusione. La colonna vertebrale presenta sempre dei punti 
dolenti in specie al rigonfiamento sacro lombare. La deambula- 
zione e piu corretta, ma le sarebbe impossibile fare una passeg- 

244 



APPENDIX 

giata lunga. La mizione e megliorata, non cosl la defacazione 
che e sempre difettosa per impotenza dello sfintere. 

Le condizioni generali sono megliorate, ma occorre pero al 
Sig re Landor seguire la cura intrapresa, e specialmente la cura 
elettrica ed idroterapica. 

(Signed) Dott. Turchini. 

COMUNE DI FlRENZE. 

Officio d'Igiene, 

Visto per la legalizzazione delta 
firma del Sig. Dott. Turchini. 
Dal Municipio Firenze 
Li 12 Febbraio 1898. 
1 Lira Stamp. II Sindaco. 

P. I. 

A. Artimini. 



Letter from the Political Peshkar, Kharak Sing. 

Private. 

Garbyang, Bhot, 

November 13, 1897. 

My dear Mr. Landor: 

I hope that you have received my letter of some time ago 
and that you may be quite well now. Are you still at Almora? 
I have not yet got back your things from the Jong Pen, but I 
hear it is quite true that all your property reached Tokchim a 
long time ago. I have sent another letter to the Jong Pen, but 
cannot get an answer, as the Lippu Pass is now closed, owing 
to a heavy fall of snow yesterday. It is rumored that a Tibetan 
officer is coming from Lhassa to Taklakot to inquire after your 
case, and probably he may have reached Taklakot yesterday, 
and after examining your things he will send them down to me. 
Now I have nearly finished my work at this place. I have col- 
lected the dues and paid them to the agents of the Jong Pen. 
I will go back to Chaudas the day after to-morrow — i.e., on the 
15th of this month. 

With kind regards, and hoping to hear from you soon, 

I remain, 

Yours sincerely, 

Kharak Sing Pal. 
245 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

Letter from the Political Peshkar, Kharak Sing Pal. 

Haldwani, January u, 1898. 

My dear Mr. Landor : 

I hope that by this time you have reached safely home. I 
have been very anxious, as I have not heard from you or of 
your safe arrival there. The dreadful day of the 8th of Septem- 
ber is still vivid in my mind, when I first saw you at Taklakot 
(in Tibet) after you had been tortured by the Tibetans, and 
where I had come in search of you. 

I cannot forget your fearful appearance, with long hair and 
beard, and your face, body, and limbs covered with wounds and 
bruises. When you arrived at Taklakot, in a few miserable rags 
stained with blood, dirty and swarming with lice, and surrounded 
by the guard of Tibetans, I could hardly believe it possible that 
it was you who stood before me, so much you had changed 
since I hacWast seen you. 

I am still deeply pained when I think of the pitiable condi- 
tion you were in, when you showed me 22 (twenty-two) fresh 
wounds on your hands, feet, and spine, without counting the in- 
juries to your face. And indescribable pain gave us too seeing 
your confiscated baggage under seal of the Tibetan authorities, 
and to find, when we opened it, to be full of broken or damaged 
instruments and other articles of your property. 

I think that you may remember my enquiry and consequent an- 
ger when the Tibetan officers and soldiers admitted their guilt 
of tying you by your limbs to the stretching log and of placing 
you on a spiked saddle ; of removing forcibly your toe-nails and 
pulling you by the hair of your head. You know quite well 
that I had no power to do more than to report the matter to 
higher authorities, but I can assure you that it was to me quite 
unbearable to hear from the Tibetans that they had brought you 
to execution, and that they boasted of having swung the naked 
executioner's sword right and left of your neck, and that they 
had brought a red-hot iron close to your eyes to blind you. 

Your servants' condition, especially that of Chanden Sing, 
whom like yourself the Tibetans kept prisoner for twenty-four 
days, and who was given two hundred lashes, was pitiable be- 
yond words. 

246 



APPENDIX 

I am anxious to see the photographs taken by Dr. Wilson of 
you as you were when you arrived at Taklakot. I trust that by 
now you may feel better, and that the pain in your spine may 
have altogether disappeared. I believe your rifles, revolver, 
ring, &c., which I succeeded in recovering from the Tibetans, 
must have reached you by now through the Deputy Commis- 
sioner at Almora. The cash and other articles have not been 
recovered, nor is there any probability of getting them back. 
Hoping to receive news of you soon, and with best salaams, 
I am, yours most obediently, 

K. Kharak Sing Pal, 

Political Peshkar, 

Garbyang Dharchula, Bhot. 



Letter from COLONEL GR1GG, Commissioner of Kumaon. 

Comi7tissionership of Kumaon. 
Dated December J ', 1897. 

My dear Landor: 

Karak Sing reports that 2 guns (1 damaged), 1 revolver, 1 
signet-ring, cash 68/12/-, cartridges (gun) no, ditto revolver 37, 
cleaning-rods 2, gun-case 1, leather straps, I butterfly-catcher, &c, 
have been handed to him by the Jong Pen of Taklakot, and he 
has requested Deputy Commissioner's orders. 

I am glad to hear your things are coming on. I hope you are 
getting stronger. 

With our kindest regards, 

Yours very sincerely, 

E. E. Grigg. 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 



[Note by the Author. — This letter, as will be seen from the date, 
reached me after the bulk only of the book had gone to press.] 

A PRIVATE LETTER FROM J. LARKIN, Esq., WHO, 
DEPUTED BY THE GOVERNMENT, PROCEEDED 
TO THE FRONTIER TO MAKE AN INQUIRY 
INTO MY CASE. 

Almora, August 10, 1898. 
My dear Landor : 

Yours of the 21st ult. I am glad to hear that your book on 
your experiences in Tibet is nearly finished. I wish you may 
have every success with it, as it is only what you deserve after 
your trials and hardships in that difficult land of the ultra-con- 
servative Lamas. I am not aware that the Indian papers are 
attacking you. However, they apparently do not get reliable 
information if they dispute the fact of your having entered Ti- 
bet. We who were in some way connected with your rescue and 
return have not been " interviewed,'-' or w T e would give the 
authentic account of the affair. 

I was on a few days' leave at Naini Tal when I heard of your 
capture, tortures, and expulsion from Tibet. I was deputed by 
the Government to proceed at once to the borders and make an 
inquiry into the affair. I set off at once, and I met you at 
Askot, where you were being looked after by the Rajbar. What 
a change in your appearance! When I saw you standing among 
some of the Askot natives I could with difficulty identify you. 
You were bronzed and weather-beaten to such an extent that you 
were not distinguishable from the natives. I do not think you 
can blame me for not recognizing you readily. Your forehead, 
nose, and the part of your face below your eyes were scarred, and 
helped to alter your appearance very greatly. You did surprise 
me when you told me that you would retrace your steps back to 
the borders on learning from me that I was hastening on to in- 
quire into your case. I had then seen the twenty odd wounds 
you had on your face, wrists, feet, and back. I strongly pro- 
tested against your undertaking the fatiguing journey back 

248 



APPENDIX 

across the perilous and arduous road, as I knew you needed rest 
and good nourishment, and thought it would be wisest for you 
to get back to Almora, and be under a good doctor. 

You, however, with your characteristic doggedness, meant to 
accompany me, and I must perforce let you. I was glad in the 
long run, for you enabled me to make a fuller inquiry than I 
would otherwise have been able. 

As you know, and as I reported to Government, I found after 
an inquiry on the borders that you had with great difficulty and 
manoeuvring succeeded in entering Tibet, evading the Jong Pen 
of Taklakot, and the Barca Tarjum at Gyanema, and crossing 
the Mariam La (Maium Pass) and getting as far as Tuksem 
(Toxem). You had been deserted by all the mountaineers who 
had started with you and who had promised to accompany you 
wherever you went. When you were left with the two Ku- 
maonis, you were surrounded and captured by the Governor of 
that part of Tibet and his men. There, as a sequel to your in- 
numerable fatigues, hardships, desertions, and privations, you 
and your two followers were ill-treated and tortured by the Gov- 
ernor. Have you not got a copy of my official report? I re- 
member you told me you were applying for it. If you possess 
the copy, surely that will be sufficient to confound your tra- 
ducers. I saw from the public papers that my report was to be 
laid on the table of the House of Commons by the Secretary of 
State for India. 

How did the photographs which we took up at the Lippu 
Pass turn out? I should particularly like to have the one of the 
group on the pass, and also the one where I am on horseback. 
I would also like to have the one / took of you having your ma- 
tutinal bath zv hen the water froze in your hair and on your body 
as it was thrown on you by Chanden Sing ; and no wonder it 
did, as there was ten to twelve feet of snow lying about, and a 
hardy Bhotia (Shoka) mountaineer had only a few days prior to 
our arrival been lost in the snow on crossing the pass. 

Doubtless it will afford you some pleasure to learn that you 
have earned quite a reputation among the natives, both Tibetan 
and Bhotias (Shokas), on account of your universal cordiality, 
generosity, and pluck. They are constantly inquiring about you, 
and relating your many good traits. Should you ever think of 

249 



IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND 

returning here you have made many friends, and you would get 
a very warm welcome from the natives. 

Dr. H. Wilson tells me that, when he took you over from 
your captors, the officials of Tibet, you were in a dying state, and 
that he only just got you in the nick of time. How are your 
eyes and spine ? I trust they are quite well again. I look back 
with pleasure to my tour up to the border with you, and our re- 
turn journey after your journey into Tibet proper, where you 
were subjected to tortures by the Governor of the district thereof. 

With every good wish, 

Yours very sincerely, 

(Signed) J. Larkin. 



INDEX 



Abnormalities and deformities, i. 

296-297. 
Aconite, i. 296. 
Adultery, ii. 68. 
Almora, i. 7 ; ii. 208. 
Altitude, greatest reached, i. 1 59— 

160; difficulties of travelling at 

great, i. 159, 168. 
Aneroids, i. 6. 
Antelopes, ii. 77. 

Anti Ram San (banker), i. 71, 10 1. 
Askote, i. 14, 15 ; ii. 203 ; Rajiwar of, 

i. 16, 33, 35 ; ii. 203, 208, 209 ; Raji- 

war's court, i. 16, 17. 
Authorities (Tibetan), ii. 215, 216. 

Bags, ii. 10, 54. 

Barca Tarjum, i. 186; ii. 189, 212, 
231. 

Bargain-house, i. 69. 

Bathing, i. 149 ; ii. 206. 

Bhot, i. 45. 

Bitroguare River, i. 142. 

Black ointment, ii. 57. 

Black tents, i. 261; ii. 50, 51, 52, 78, 
81, 82, 86, 93, 104, 118, 175, 176. 

Black wolf, i. 245. 

Bleeding, i. 297. 

Boiling-point temperature at Gun- 
kyo Lake, ii. 35 ; at Rakastal and 
Mansarowar Lake, i. 243, 307. 

Bone-setting, i. 295, 296. 

Boots, i. 254. 

Boru, i. 292. 

Botiyas, i. 46. 

Boundary between Nepal and Ku- 
maon, i. 33, 60. 

Brahmaputra River, or Tsangpu, ii. 
40, 45, 48, 77, 172, 173; ramifica- 
tions of, ii. 78; sources of, ii. 41, 
173; tributaries of, ii. 42, 44, 49, 
50, 84, 85. 



Brigands, i. 58, 195, 213, 221, 242, 
243, 247, 252, 255 ; ii. 25 ; manner 
of speaking, i. 241. 

British Government, ii. 196. 

British Museum of Natural History, 
i. 5. 

British prestige, i. 45. 

Brown, Miss, i. 37, 54, 

Buddi village, i. 68. 

Bungadhura Mountain, i. 42. 

Burns and their cure, i. 296. 

Butterflies, i. 151, 240. 

Byans and Chaudans, ii. 217. 

Cameras, ii. 198. 

Cannibalism, ii. 70-73. 

Carpet and rug making, i. 49. 

Caves, i. 38, 68, 241. 

Chai-Lek, or Tcheto Pass, i. 69. 

Chanchubs, i. 279. 

Chanden Sing, i. 9-1 1; ii. 91, 100, 
106, 108, 112, 128, 168, 209, 213, 215, 
220, 222, 223, 231, 239; deposition 
of, ii. 229 ; flogging of, ii. 108. 

Charm-boxes, ii. 7. 

Charms, i. 270. 

Chibbi, i. 275, 283. 

Children, i. 258 ; identification of, 
ii. 66. 

Chinese steel, ii. 10. 

Chipla Mountain, i. 15. 

Chipula forests, i. 26. 

Ckz'ram, i. 88, 

Choktens, i. 177, 304; ii. 72, 192. 

Ckoksek, or table with offerings, ii. 

55. 
Chokti, i. 85, 127. 
Chongur Bridge, i. 127, 129. 
Circumambulations, i. 238, 273, 277 ; 

ii. 62. 
Climate, i. 240; change in the, i. 

262; ii. 42. 



251 



INDEX 



Clothing, i. 6. 

Cold, i. 209, 234, 235, 246, 264; ii. 

83. 
Collecting materials, i. 5. 
Concubines, ii. 68. 
Confiscated property, ii. 236, 247. 
Consulting the oracle, ii. 166. 
Converts, i. 55. 
Courtship, ii. 66. 
Cowardice, ii. 6, 185, 191. 
Cracks in the ice, i. 94, 154, 158. 
Credentials, i. 2. 
Cremation, ii. 69. 
Cupping, i. 297. 

Dafia, i. 15. 

Dancing, ii. 39. 

Daramsalla, i. 14. 

Darma Yangti, i. 168. 

Deafness, i. 298. 

Delaling Monastery, ii. 192. 

Delang cake, i. no. 

Dementia, i. 298. 

Dentistry, i. 292, 293. 

Deolthal, i. 14. 

Deposition of witnesses, ii. 219. 

Devil's Camp, i. 203, 205. 

Dharchula, i. 35, 37. 

Dholi River, i. 46. 

Diary, note-books, etc., ii. 194. 

Diet, ii. 165. 

Digestive powers, i. 291. 

Disposal of the dead by animals, ii. 
69 ; by water, ii. 69. 

Diving at great altitudes, ii. ZZ. 

Divorce, ii. 65. 

Dogmar, ii. 187, 215, 235. 

Dogpas, i. 222, 224. 

Dogs, ii. 47, 151. 

Doktol Province, ii. 40. 

Dola, i. 126. 

Dongbo, or tea-churn, ii. 53. 

Dongon River, ii. 201. 

Dooti Mountain, i. 15. 

Drinking human blood, i. 289; ii. 71, 
72. 

Dubart, i. 37. 

Dues paid by British subjects to Tib- 
etans, ii. 245. 

Ear-rings, i. 187, 257, 269; ii. 60. 

Earthquake, i. 97. 

Elongated ears, i. 298. 

Evil omens, ii. 103, 142. 

Evil qualities to be avoided, i. 279. 

Evil spirits, i. 291. 



Execution ground, ii. 137. 
Exorcisms, i. 293, 294; ii. 163. 

Fakirs, i. 226. 

Fakirs and Mansarowar, i. 29. 

Features, ii. 6. 

Fever and diseases, i. 290, 299. 

Fever-demon, i. 290. 

Fire-cure, i. 298, 303. 

Fish, i. 269. 

Fits, i. 298. 

Flying prayers, i. 51, 52 ; ii. 39. 

Food, notions of natives regarding, 

i. 170. 
Foreign Office, ii. 207. 
Fossils, gigantic, i. 245. 
Frost-bite, i, 146. 
Fuel, i. 145, 173 ; ii. 83. 
Funerals, ii. 69, 70. 

Gakkon River, i. 215; ii. 187, 192, 

193. . 
Gangoli hat, i. 12. 
Gangri Mountains, i. 236, 261 ; ii. 

35. 42. 
Garbyang, i. 71 ; ii. 202, 203, 212. 
Gargia, i. 33. 

Gaussen, Lieutenant, i. 58, 75. 
Gelupkas, i. 282. 
Ghural, i. 94. 
Gibti, i. 63, 64. 
Goats, ii. 80. 
Gobaria, Pundit, i. 71 ; ii. 195, 197, 

198, 216, 228, 232, 233; deposition 

of, ii. 233. 
Goitre, i. 291. 
Go ling, ii. 53. 

Gomba, i. 261, 262; ii. 192. 
Gori River, i. 33. 
Government allowance, i. 282. 
Government Inquiry and Report, ii. 

195, 203, 207, 219-235, 248. 
Government of India, ii. 194, 203, 

207. 
Government of Northwest Provinces 

and Oudh, ii. 208 ; conference held 

by Lieutenant-Governor of, ii. 208. 
Government Report by J. Larkin, 

ii. 211. 
Government, Reports to, ii. 194, 195, 

211, 248. 
Grand Lama, i. 284. 
Grigg, Colonel, Commissionerof Ku- 

maon, i. 8; ii. 208; letter from, ii. 

247. 
Gungi, i. Sy ; ii. 198. 

52 






INDEX 



Gungi Shankom, i. 88. 
Gunkyo Lake, ii. 29, 35, 37. 
Gyanema, ii. 189, 212, 216. 
Gyanema Fort, i. 180. 
Gyanema Lake, i. 179. 
Gyanema-Taklakot track, i. 215, 
Gyatsho, ii. 136, 214, 215, 224, 230, 
231, 239. 

Handcuffs, ii. 125, 214. 
Hare-lip, i. 291. 
Harness, ii: 10. 
Head-gear, i. 255 ; ii. 132. 
Hernia, i. 291. 
Highways to Tibet, i. 39-44. 
Hill-men, i. 33. 

Himahlyas, i. 40-43,45, 95, 153, 15^, 
160, 166-170, 172, 173 ; ii. 42, 50, 75. 
Hindoo rites at Mansarowar, i. 272. 
Honesty and honor, i. 256. 
Horse-races, ii. 161. 
House of Commons, ii. 249. 
Humli, Rongba encampments, i. 36. 
Hundes, i. 45. 
Hypnotism, i. 285 ; ii. 162. 

Images, i. 277. 
India, i. 2. 

India Office, ii. 207, 211. 
Indian newspapers, ii. 248. 
Injuries and wounds, ii. 228. 
Injuries to spine, ii. 200. 
Inlaid metals, ii. 8. 
Insanity, i. 299. 
Inscriptions, i. 285; ii. 12, 39. 
Islands, i. 240. 

Jagat Sing, i. 16. 

Jealousy, ii. 64. 

Jewelry, i. 269. 

Johari traders, i. 179. 

Jolinkan Pass, i. 143; River, i. 144. 

Jong Pen of Taklakot, i. 58, 73, 76, 
102, 227; ii. 182, 185, 198, 205, 266, 
212, 216, 233, 234, 235; his hatred 
of English subjects, ii. 216. 

Julinba, i. 282. 

Kachi Ram, i. 126. 

Kali River, i. 37, 60, 86, 102. 

Kalika, i. 36. 

Kamarjuri, the, i. 30. 

Kanwa, i. 87. 

Karak Sing Pal (Political Peshkar), 
ii. 182, 193, 195, 196, 203, 205, 216, 
228, 229, 232, 239 ; deposition of, 



ii. 234; letters from, ii. 245, 246, 

247. 
Kardam, i. 224; ii. 187. 
Karko, i. 179. 
Kata, or veil of friendship, ii. 20, 62, 

93, 161, 164. 
Kathgodam, ii. 209. 
Kelas, or Tize, i. 236, 237, 239. 
Khela, i. 37. 
Kiang, or wild horse, i. 180, 239; ii. 

77- 
Kz'atsamba-pun, ii. 116. 

Kunjuk-Sum, i. 279. 

Kuti, i. 96, 138, 139; castle at, i. 138. 

Kuti River, i. 87, 88, 89, 94, 142, 152, 

166 ; sources of, i. 166. 

Kutzia Daramsalla, i. 33. 

Lachu River, i. 37. 

Ladak-Lhassa track, ii. 39, 43, 48, 
86, 94. , 

Ladjekut Peak, i. 64. 

Lahmari, i. 67. 

Lama Chokden, i. 175, 194. 

Lamas, i. 272, 275-289 ; ii. 69-73, 101, 
106, 107, 114, 132, 137, 146, 149, 
162, 214, 221, 222, 229; celibacy of, 
i. 285; ii. 68; fasting of, i. 284; 
hermit, i. 240 ; hypocrisy of, ii. 1 10, 
125; infallibility of, i. 284; musi- 
cians, ii. 139; sculptors, i. 285; ii. 
13; support of, i. 283; temporary 
freedom with woman, i. 289; un- 
popularity of, ii. 36. 

Landor, A. H. Savage. See Savage 
Landor. 

Langa River, i. 264. 

Lapsang, ii. 187, 195. 

Larkin, J., i. 8, 75 ; ii. 200, 203, 204, 
206, 207, 208, 211, 217, 218, 219; 
letters from, ii. 248. 

Leather-work, ii. 7. 

Lha Kang, or temple, i. 275. 

Lippu Pass, i. 39, 58,72, 102; ii. 182, 
198, 205, 206. 

Loads, i. 4. 

Loudon Gourkha Fort, i. 13. 

Luminosity of water, i. 233. 

Lumpiya Glacier, i. 167. 

Lumpiya Pass, i. 92, 102, 168; ii. 182, 
186, 187, 212, 216, 219, 231, 233. 
234, 238. 

Luway Pass, i. 173. 



Magbun (General-in-Chief), i. 181 ; 
ii. 116. 



253 



INDEX 



Mahommedan shops, i. 15. 

Maium Pass, ii. 38, 39, 40, 213, 220. 

Malpa River, i. 66. 

Mangshan, i. 92, 102. 

Mangshan Glacier, i. 155-157. 

Mangshan Mountain, ii. 237. 

Mangshan River, i. 153, 158. 

Mani wall, ii. 48, 75. 

Mansarowar Lake, i. 246, 262, 263, 
273; ii. 179, 212, 215, 219,228, 230, 
231, 235 ; legend about creation 
of, i. 274; and Rakastal Lakes, 
level of, i. 244; ridge dividing, i. 
246, 260. 

Mansing, the coolie, i. 140; ii. 90, 100, 
128, 146, 147, 150, 209, 213, 215, 
220, 223, 226 ; deposition of, ii. 
230. 

Marksmanship, ii. 37, 160. 

Marriage ceremonies, ii. 61 ; punish- 
ments for adultery, ii. 68 ; restric- 
tions on, ii. 63 ; system, ii. 6^. 

Marriageable age, ii. 68. 

Marshy land, ii. 78, 79, 80, 84. 

Martini-Henry rifle, ii. 158, 227, 236. 

Masses kept in ignorance, i. 284. 

Matchlocks, ii. 25, 36, 115. 

Medallions containing ashes of the 
dead, i. 304. 

Medicine-man, i. 299. 

Medicines, i. 7. 

Melancholia, i. 299. 

Metal-work, ii. 8. 

Methodist Episcopal Mission, L 27> 

Middu, ii. 4. 

Mirage, ii. 49. 

Money, i. 269. 

Money-lending, i. 282. 

Monkeys, i, 36, 58. 

Mortification, ii. 160, 166. 

Mosquitoes, ii. 76. 

Mud-holes, ii. 79. 

Musicians, ii. 177. 

Nabi, i. Z8. 

Nabi Shankom, i. 87. 

Naini Tal, i. 3, 4, 7 ; ii. 208. 

Namjun Peak, i. 69. 

Nari Khorsum, ii. 40. 

Neganza, or Nejangar Mountain, i. 

64. 
Nepal, i. 86; ii. 201. 
Nerba, ii. 102, 132, 142, 195, 196, 214, 

217, 224, 225, 228, 233, 234, 240. 
Nerpani track, i. 63-68 ; ii. 203. 
Nimo Nangil, i. 215. 



Northern range parallel to Himah- 

lyas, ii. 42, 50, 75,79. 
Nunneries, i. 288. 

Obos, ii. 39, 41. 

Occult arts, i. 284; ii. 157, 166. 

Offerings, i. 277. 

Officers, ii. 19. 

Officials, ii. 189. 

"O/ie/" (Tibetan exclamation), ii. 

123. 
" Omne mani padme hun" i. 242, 285, 

287. 
Optical phenomenon, i. 234. 

Packing-cases, i. 4. 

Pack-saddles, i. 250; ii. io ; 15, 

Panku-Gomba, i. 306. 

Paralysis, i. 299. 

Passes into Tibet, i. 172. 

Photographs by J. Larkin, ii. 249 ; of 
wounds, etc., ii. 199; by Dr. Wil- 
son, ii. 237, 247. 

Photography, ii. 206, 208. 

Pigtails, ii. 6. 

Piles of stones, i. 145. 

Pithoragarh, i, 12. 

Plague, i. 2. 

Plateau, i. 215 ; a high, i. 168, 173. 

Plenki, ii. 33, 34, 126, 166. 

Poison, ii. 166. 

Polyandry, ii. 61-68. 

Pombo, the, ii. 107, 162, 215, 221, 224, 
225, 226, 227, 249, 250; contortions 
of, ii. 163 ; tent of, ii. 105, 136. 

Pottery, i. 271. 

Poverty of the masses, i. 283. 

Prayer, a, ii. 119. 

Prayer-wheels, i. 285. 

Provisions, i. 5, 136. 

Puku, i. 253, 257; ii. 53. 

Pungo, i. 46. 

Rack, ii. 149, 215, 227, 240. 

Rakastal or Rakstal Lake, *. 236, 
246, 261. 

Raksang, ii. 53, 121. 

Rambang, i. 70, 105-111. 

Rankuti River, i. 37. 

Raots or Rajis, i. 18-28 ; ii. 209 ; feat- 
ures of, i. 24; food of, i. 24; habi- 
tations of, i. 24; marriages of, h 
27. 

Release, ii. 196, 197. 

Relegar River, i. 37. 

Reports (Official), ii. 233. 

'54 



INDEX 



Rheumatism, i. 291. 
Rhubarb, i. 239. 
Rifles, i. 5. 

Rites, religious, i. 278. 
Ronkan, i. 88. 
Rosary, i. 288. 

Royal Geographical Society, i. 2. 
Riipun, ii. 114, 117, 120, 126. 
Russian Embassy in London, i. 2 ; 
government, i. 1. 

Sacred dances, i. 285. 

Sacrifices, ii. 39, 62. 

Saddles, ii. 10. 

Salutations, ii, 20. 

Samarakand, i. 2. 

Sand-hills and mounds, ii. 129. 

Savage Landor, A. H., ii. 217, 219, 

229, 230, 231, 234, 235, 237, 238, 

241, 243, 244, 247, 248. 
Sensitiveness to physical pain, i. 

293< 

Serai, ii. 179. 

Servants, i. 8. 

Shadgora, i. 13. 

Shakta, i. 37. 

Shankula, i. 58 ; River, i. 60. 

Sheep loads, i. 34; ii. 80. 

Sheldon, Miss, i. 37, 54; certificate 
of, ii. 243, 244. 

Shokas, i. 44, 46, 47, 77, 209, 211 ; ii. 
193, 194, 195, 201, 204, 205, 207; 
cremation, i. 114; dancing, i. 1 17— 
121 ; death, i. 112 ; diseases, i. 53 ; 
dwellings, i. 82, 87; funerals, i. 112- 
123 ; hospitality, i. 82-86; ladders, 
i. 133; marriages, i. no; notions 
of earthquakes, i. 99 ; pathetic 
custom of the, i. 132 ; punishments, 
i. no; sacrifices, i. 121; saluta- 
tions, i. 50, 124, 125; songs and 
music, i. 106, 107 ; summer resi- 
dences, i. 33 ; tailor, i. 99; traders, 
ii. 193, 198, 212 ; water-mills, i. 36, 
winter dwellings, i. 33, 36. 

Shosha, i. 51. 

Sibling Monastery, ii. 192. 

Singing, ii. 39, 174. 

Sirka, i. 54. 

Siva, the god, i. 273. 

Slings, ii. 3. 

Snap-shot, ii. 204. 

Snow and ice bridges, i. 88, 96. 

Snow-line, i. 151. 

Snow-storm, ii. 237. 

Soldiers, i. 180, 186, 193, 223; ii. 16, 



28, 32, 36, 74, 100, 107, 115, 118, 124, 

168, 189, 212. 227, 238; allowance 

of, ii. 36. 
Spectre, i. 161. 
Speech, difficulty of, i. 298. 
Spies, i. 102, 174. 
Spiked saddle, ii. 129, 214, 223, 231, 

232, 239. 
Spirits of the mountains, i. 30-32. 
Sports, ii. 160. 
Stars, brilliancy of, i. 234. 
Starvation, effects of, ii. 92. 
Storms, i. 171, 205, 223, 262, 264; ii. 

1, 23. 
Stretching-log, ii. 137, 149. 
Sturt, Mr. (ex-Duputy Commissioner 

at Almora), i. 74. 
Suffocating a goat, ii. 176. 
Suicide, i. 299. 
Suna, ii, 182, 197 ; deposition of, ii. 

235. 

Superstitions, i. 178, 225, 258, 259, 279, 
293 : ii. 102, 142, 154. 

Surgery, i. 295. 

Sword exercise previous to decapi- 
tation, ii. 142, 143, 144,215, 225, 240. 

Swords, ii. 9, 10 ; two-handled sword 
of executioner, ii. 142. 

Taklakot, ii. 192, 194, 202, 212, 228, 
230, 231, 232, 234, 238. 

Taram (implement for hot-iron tort- 
ure), ii. 139, 214, 225, 231. 

Tarbar, i. 299 ; ii. 84. 

Tatta, the, i. 29. 

Tchukti, ii. 59. 

Tchu-pwi, ii. 116. 

Teeth, i. 292, 

Tents, i. 6, 60, 72, 99. 

Terror Camp, i. 224. 

Tethering of ponies, ii. 10. 

Thar, i. 94, 239. 

Tibet, boundary of, i. 45. 

Tibetan claims and abuses, i. 45, 46 ; 
clothes, i. 252 ; craving for alcohol, 
\. 189 ; cruelty to British subjects, 
i- 73» 77 ; diet, ii. 53, 122 ; encamp- 
ment, i. 34, 36; guard, i. 127, 154, 
171, 175, 177, 184 (see also "Sol- 
diers ") ; habitations, exterior and 
interior, i. 268, 305 ; insults, i. 102 ; 
ii. 196, 207. 

Tibetans on British soil, ii. 207 ; 
practice of leaving one arm bare 
explained, i. 253 ; threats, i. 78; ii. 
38 ; trade with, i. 39. 



255 



INDEX 



Tinker, ii. 201. 

Tinker Pass, i. 102 ; ii. 202. 

Tinker River, ii. 201. 

Titela Daramsalla, i. 52. 

Tokchim Tarjum, ii. 20, 132, 177, 195, 
224, 228, 233. 

Tongzu Pangti, i. 94. 

Torture implements, ii. 138. 

Toxem, ii. 213, 215, 220, 229, 231. 

Track on British soil, i. 130. 

Transmigration of evil spirits, i. 293. 

Treachery, ii. 97, 213, 223. 

Treatment of umbilical cord, i. 298. 

Tucker, i. 261 ; ii. 179, 212, 219; Lam- 
asery, i. 275. 

Tungpun, ii. 116. 

Turchini, Dr. (director of Royal Hos- 
pital, S. M. Nuova, Florence), cer- 
tificate of, ii. 244-245. 

Umbrella, importance of, i. 187. 
Under-Secretary to Government of 

Northwest Provinces and Oudh, 

ii. 218. 
Urghin, i. 277. 

Ventriloquism, ii. 172. 

Vessels and instruments of human 

bone, i. 289 ; ii. 71. 
Vision, ii. 166, 179. 

Warner, Sir W. Lee (Letter from), 
ii. 211. 



Waterfall, i. 65, 68. 

Weaving-loom, i. 48. 

Webbed fingers, i. 279; ii 167. 

White stones, ii. 39. 

Widow's trouble, a, ii. 65. 

Wilson, Dr. H., i. 37, 72, 87, 134, 155 ; 
ii. 182, 193, 195, 196, 198, 204, 216, 
228, 229, 230, 231, 235, 237, 247, 
250; certificate of A. H. Savage 
Landor's wounds and injuries, ii. 
241-242; certificate of Chanden 
Sing's injuries, ii. 242-243 ; depo- 
sition of, ii. 231 ; letter from, ii. 
237 ; photographs by, ii. 237 ; state- 
ments by, ii. 237, 238-240. 

Wind, i. 168, 208, 222, 264; ii. 12, 

Wire-making, ii. 10. 

Witnesses, ii. 207. 

Woman from Lhassa, ii. 59. 

Women, i. 245, 257; ii. 56-60, 169; 

attire of, ii. 59 ; scarcity of, i. 298 ; 

strength of, ii. 57. 
Woven patterns, i. 49. 

Yaks, i. 180, 249 ; ii. 45, 86, 213. 
Yellow flowers, i. 240. 
Yutzang province, ii. 40, 172. 

Zeheran, i. 83, 124. 
Zeyan Yangti, ii. 202. 
Zirri River, ii. 201. 



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